sheath

Would be interested to know if anyone who ordered after February has had their trucks go into the "parking lots of forgotten".

Both are beautiful trucks. I would look for which dealer is most confident in processing your order, so that it doesn't end up in a parking lot somewhere waiting on a part. Someone posted that the '23 order window would be opening up in May. That may be worth investigating. Good luck whichever way you go!

Nice work. Looking forward to reading a 6 month drive report to see your satisfaction after some time on the truck.

I too find throttle and brake to be spongy in response (Feb '22 build). Where it is most noticeable is in slow tight maneuvering, like parking lots. It feels like the throw is too long, and disconnected from actual truck movement. I've gotten used to it, and just ride the brake in those situations to help control the trucks movement. Also noticed that if I pump the brake pedal once, the second brake press is firm and high in the stroke, which helps improve braking preciseness in those slow speed tight maneuvers.

Adjusting the headlights for the trailer load is a good idea. I'll bet once I figure out how many turns of the adjuster gets it set, I can "reset" really quick. Thanks! At 2,400lbs pin weight, the overloads are touching the pads. The light feeling is more about rough undulating surfaces where the suspension on truck and trailer is compressing/decompressing front to rear and side to side. Will be fun to see the difference in feel when the bike is up front, and the 500-ish lbs are loaded into the bedbox.

Somewhere I read GM is holding off any major changes until after 2023. I'm interested to see if they upgrade the transmission how it works out. Just finished a pull from Stockton, CA up to Sonora, CA (in the Sierra Nevada foothills). It was about a 70-ish mile climb from about 20' ASL to about 1,500' ASL. Modest inclines of 4%-6%. Climbed just fine, and this time the 5th wheel weighed in about 14,600 with a tank of fresh water. Only once did the Cruise control kick down all the way to where the engine rev'd to 5K rpms. Had a lot of traffic behind me, so just let it run, because there was no place to pull over. Based on my limited towing time, what I would like to see is the ability to get the truck to hold a gear without downshifting further. Maybe program this into the tow-haul mode. This would help with the rolling foothills, where the road continuously goes up and down 50'-100'. I really like the way the engine sounds and feels in that 3.500-4,200 rpm range. It feels like a good "working" range. It's like all the oscillating harmonics go away, and it is strong/happy. Can't figure out better words, so i hope this makes sense.

I've noticed with the VYU Option, when pulling the 5th wheel (14,300 lbs with about 2,400lbs on the pin) that the front end rides pretty high, and the steering is light / less responsive. Thinking it is most likely higher than it would be with the standard suspension. I'd venture to guess it would be even more pronounced with a hitch pull trailer, unless the weight distribution bars are cranked down tight. Just something to consider. I'm adding a front hitch, and plan to carry some weight up there to help settle the front end when pulling the 5th wheel. Truck is a CC/SB 3500HD Gas engine. Hope this info is helpful.

I really like the Andersen setup. Looks a lot easier to connect, with the ball sitting up tall. Since the engine is built for fleet use, I'm betting you are right about allowing it to just rev out. I'm OK with dropping the speed. Most the time grades are through some beautiful country, so I just turn on the hazards and enjoy the scenery. Happy Camping!

Here is some more info from the "Build Time" thread. I think there is even more explanations in other posts in this thread, and a few others.

Can''t speak to the 1500 but on the HD trucks, the trailer camera activates when a trailer is plugged in. Since your truck is a 1500 you may find better info with a search on this link: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/236-2019-2021-silverado-sierra/

210* is okay. Fresh transmission fluid is good to 235*F, where it will start to degrade.

Rats! I was hoping the truck was arming the "Mother-In-Law Ejection Seat System." (MILES System). Pretty sure that is in the Discomfort Settings Menu, or at least it should be. To the moon Alice!

I think if GM would have put the pin centered on the axle it would not unload the front end this much. This truck has halogen headlights, and I was still getting flashed by on coming traffic due to how high the front end was. Just realized I may see more than a normal rise in front end due to having the Snow Plow/Camper option, which has the highest capacity front torsion bars. Someone without that option, may not see as much lift. I may be a victim of my own doing... roflol! Really looking forward to the bike on the front hitch. Also I'll be able to unload about 500lbs of dead weight into the bed chest (ordered this 62x27x20 Weather Guard Bed Chest . That weight currently sits ahead of the trailer axles, in the storage bay. Between those two weight shifts, I'm thinking it will settle right down. If those changes don't get a solid feel, I'll look into seeing about pinning an offset ball to move the trailer forward. There is plenty of room between the trailer and the C pillar. I'm loving this truck. The L8T has a good pull. It does have a weird dip in power right about 3200 rpm, but above that it pulls good. Not sure if it is considering a shift & cutting power or what. But it happened over several of the grades. Transmission never exceeded 212*F, so it's not struggling. While I'd have gone diesel if I did at least one good hour long trip per week, this combo seems to be the best decision in my case. Good fuel mileage and the least expensive fuel option is a great benefit. When I was able to wiggle out of that gas station with almost no room to maneuver, it put a huge smile on my face. Went to lunch with a friend yesterday, and she commented on how nice the ride was. I still had the tires set at 60/80 psi.

That's pretty smart! Really dig innovative people.

Can I change my mind to a slightly possible maybe interest? After pulling a 14,300 lbs 5th wheel travel trailer through some short to medium length 6% grades (up and down hill), I'd be interested to see if they could get the electronics right to make the 10 speed a good option. Having an added gear spaced between 1st and second could be helpful. Also some good tuning so that the transmission didn't automatically drop down so many gears that the rpms jump up over 5K on a medium heavy uphill pull would be nice. Although I'm not sold that this couldn't be fixed with the current transmission, and more use of the manual shift mode. So while I'm still leaning heavily towards keeping the current transmission, a case could be made for a 10 speed option.

Seems quite a few people consider using a gas engine to pull big 5th wheel travel trailers. Thought I'd share my experience on the first pull. The short of my opinion is: It is not a pleasant experience when compared to a diesel engine. That wrote, based on my use the L8T was the best choice. It may be for you too. I pull a bit less than 30% of the time. Usually that is one to two days when moving to a new area, then park the 5th wheel from two weeks to a few months. The rest of the time is short trips on a daily basis. Short runs on diesel engines are really hard on the truck. I've been at RV parks where guys are doing forced regen's because of this type operation. Pulled the 5th wheel from North Bend, OR down the coast highway 101, and across from Petaluma to to the Central Valley in California. There are quite a few 6%-ish grades along the route, I noticed one summit at just over 1,500', and there was a larger grade through the coastal range. Temps were in the mid 50s. The 5th wheel weighs 14,300 lbs currently, and is a wide body (100") which is a big frontal area. Average fuel consumption on the first tank (through most the mountain grades) was just over 7.5mpg. Once things leveled out, the fuel mileage went up to a bit more than 8.5 mpg. Most of this was at about 55 mph. So this brings up the first issue. As much as possible I use cruise control. But that was problematic on the mountain climbs, and on some of the down hills. On the uphills, it would downshift, and rev out to over 5K rpms to try and maintain speed. I am not comfortable pushing an engine that hard. So I stopped using cruise and just let the speed drop down in the 40-45mph range to keep rpms down between 3,200-4,500 rpms. That made me "feel better". But the power below 3,500 rpm feels weak, and it seems the engine doesn't like to work in that range. On the down hills, it would "grade shift" in spots I'd have rather the rig just coasted, because of the upcoming rise. So I didn't use it much on the downhills either. Not sure if more gears (i.e. 10 speed) would help here, because this engine seems to like the higher rpms to make power). But I would like to try one with an eight or ten speed, if GM decides to build that combo. The engine "felt" best between 3,500, and 4,200 rpms. In comparison to my old Dodge with the 5.9L, four speed auto and Pacbrake, I pretty much lived on cruise control. The diesel having the torque to handle grades much better. I can only imagine how much better the new diesel trucks with almost 1,000 lbs/ft of torque would be pulling this same trailer. The second issue is due to the short bed truck having the hitch ball 2" behind the rear axle. This un-weights the front end, and the truck "floats" down the road. Steering input is imprecise, and loose feeling. Edit to add: I may have created this issue by choosing the Snow Plow/Camper Option (YVU) That option steps up the front torsion bars to the highest rating. Current pin weight is about 60lbs under max allowed. I'm going to add a chest at the front of the bed, and put some heavy gear in it. I'm also putting a front hitch on the truck, and for now it will hold a motorcycle carrier and an 80 lbs e-bike. That 150-ish pounds in front of the bumper should help load the front end back down. Highway 101 is a mess, there were sections going down the coast that was cut down to one lane with stop lights to control traffic. Pulling the wide trailer through some of those switch-backs with cement barriers on one side, and cones on the other was exciting... lol Overall, while a bit stressful due to the front end of the truck being a huge block, I was impressed with how precisely I could navigate difficult slow speed maneuvers. I pulled into a gas station in Eureka, and immediately thought "Uh-oh!" The entrance was wide, the overhead clearance was generous. The exit was made for mini-cars. When I pulled out, everyone at the pumps, and the employees came out to watch. In that situation, the truck was a champ. I was able to wiggle out in a single shot going forward with less than an inch to spare on any corner. Everyone applauded as I hit the street... roflol Truth is, I'm not sure I'd have made it out, if I'd had to back up at any point. I'm now very comfortable where each corner of the truck, and trailer is. Third issue is the poorly functioning trailer electronics. I programmed in the trailer, set the brake bias, shifted into Tow Haul Mode and got about 1/10 of mile down the road before the DIC started swapping back and forth between "disconnected trailer" and "Check Tow Haul mode." To resolve that stupidity, I pulled over, shut off the truck, unplugged the trailer, waited a few minutes. Then I plugged the trailer back in, started the truck, turned on Tow Haul mode, and used "Generic Trailer". It seemed to think that was OK. Reset the brake gain, and headed down the road. No more issues as long as I used Generic (or Guest?) Trailer mode. 4th issue. Brakes on the truck feel spongy to begin with, so getting a balance of truck to trailer brakes under light braking... well, I just gave up on that. Trailer ended up doing the majority of slow speed light braking. On the positive side of things: While the steering feels light and imprecise, the truck itself feels confident stability wise. The rear of the truck doesn't move laterally, and handles the 2,400 lbs pin weight and overall 14,300 lbs trailer weight just fine. I really think once the front of the truck has some weight on it, the overall handling experience will be planted and responsive. Mirrors work fine, with the exception that the spot mirror view is too low. But they do provide a good view of the trailer tires in turns. I don't drive fast, rarely feel the need to pass someone and really like this truck for city/non-towing work. It is comfortable on long trips with or without the trailer. For the 70%-ish time it doesn't pull a trailer, it is an awesome truck. It pulled just fine on 87 Octane fuel, which saved money over diesel, and Ford/Dodge needing 93 to tow. I'm pleasantly surprised on the fuel mileage as well. I was only getting a bit over 11mpg with the Dodge pulling this trailer, and that would drop down to about 9.5 mpg pulling grades. The key to me with the gas engine seems to be more about patience and good planning. The willingness to pull slower, and pick good gas stations is a must. Hope this is helpful to someone trying to decide between the Duramax, or this L8T to pull their big travel trailers.

I installed a Reese Goosebox as well. I like it after the first tow from Oregon to California Via Highway 101 (rough, winding & rougher). In comparison to the previous setup (B&W Companion with slider hitch, Lippert Rota-Flex pin box, Dodge shortbed), I am very happy to make the change. I'm pulling the trailer about 2-4 time per month, and need the bed at every stop. So this seemed like the best alternative. If I was only pulling once or twice a year, I'd opt for the B&W without the slider. I really like how easy it the B&W is to hitch, and how connected the trailer felt when towing. My thoughts on the differences and towing experience, so far: Pro's over my previous B&W/Rota-Flex setup: * Removing the Companion slider was a heavy bugger. I did not enjoy removing/installing. Especially since I was doing it by myself. * Small foot print in the front allows a bigger chest at the front of the bed. * Seems like the airbag in the Goosebox is less jarring on the trailer. * Looks expensive (great for bragging rights with the "neighbors"... lol) * Was able to get about 6-1/2" of bed to 5th wheel clearance with a pretty level trailer. Cons: *Lining up is a learning experience. I'm going to make a magnetic sighting system I can see looking out the back window to make connecting easier. Something I can toss in the bed box. I'm not competent enough to use the bed camera to get latitudinal alignment yet. I'm using the trailer camera, set on the wheel well to get longitudinal alignment, and that works well. * Less room down the side of the bed for chests and stuff, because of the size of the Goosebox structure when making turns. * The ride feels a bit disconnected, especially on rough roads through the turns. Feels like the trailer wallows in comparison to the 5th wheel connection. * Goosebox sits a lot lower than a standard 5th wheel pin box. So when the 5th wheel is level, I can't back under the Goosebox (it is lower than the bed). At short narrow camp spots, that can leave the truck hanging into the road. * inflating the air bag, and connecting the chains/safety brake would be more difficult without the Mult-Flex tailgate. Really glad I ordered that on the truck. * Goosebox sticks out quite a bit further in front of the trailer than the Rota-Flex 5th wheel pinbox. Since I can't back under the trailer when the site is level, that's a bit more difficult to park the truck.

Great input from JR. Going with your Renogy, you could always add an adjustable Voltage Sensing Relay (VSR) in the future to connect the D+ signal to. An adjustable VSR will allow you to set the voltage that the D+ gets a trigger. It is very easy to connect, and the solid state electronic versions are very reliable. Just something to consider for the future. Best of luck getting everything setup.

There are fuses that are powered only when the key is in run position (as an example F44-F48). A fuse tap off Fuse 46 (HVAC) would work. You can get fuse taps at the local auto parts store. Fuse 46 should be in the fuse box on the passenger side end of the dash. Good luck with your setup. I don't know how your DC/DC charger functions, but it would be best if it did not start a charge cycle until the truck battery voltage was a stable minimum voltage slightly above 13.8V. This will make sure you truck and batteries are kept in good condition during cold weather starts and if the BCM picks up a fault limiting output to 13.8V. If you can adjust your cut in voltage for the converter, I'd set it to 13.9V - 14.1V.

That's a pretty old school schematic, and won't work for your new GM truck. There isn't an IGN signal (per se) at the alternator. Chapter 5 of the Body Builder Electric manual explains how our charging systems function. https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/05/20_Silverado_2500HD_3500HD_Electric-1.pdf Contact Renogy Tech Support and give them model, year, etc. of your truck and get their input on how to correctly install. If they don't have those pages on the charging system, it might be helpful to supply them to the Tech Support Rep.

Is that what you are doing now, and has it made a difference for you that you can quantify? Lots of articles out on how to hypermile. I'm more interested in what folks on this forum are actually doing, and what affects you all are seeing. When I had my last truck, there were individuals on the associated forum that were doing some pretty intensive testing/mods to see how much they could increase their fuel mileage. It was a lot of fun to read, and get ideas from.

Would be very cool to read what you all are doing. Not many of us bought our Heavy Duty trucks expecting to get great gas mileage. That wrote, with the recent spike in fuel prices have you adopted any practices to help get the best from your truck? If you have, has it positively affected your fuel mileage? It would be interesting to see how things like tire pressure, driving regimens/disciplines, aero mods, etc., actually impact fuel mileage. I remember the old days when trucks got 10mpg, empty, loaded, uphill, downhill, engine off coasting on long down hill sections... lol This truck is only half way through the third tank of fuel, so I don't have any competent data to add.

On my 3500 w/18" rims, gas, CC/SB 4x4, Snow Plow/Camper package, I dropped the rear pressure to 60psi, (fronts were already 60psi) and the TPMS still shows green. The ride is night and day different. Truck is so much smoother over sharp bumps. The steering feels more connected, and the truck seems to "wander" less. When I tow it's a heavy load, and run fully inflated per door placard.

I ran Firestone airbags on a 2500 Dodge, and it worked out awesome. Not sure how that would translate to the Chevy, but always something to consider. I figured long bed, since you're going to run a truck camper. at 3,100lbs capacity with the short bed, you'll be close. Salesman did a good job on the build.

1). Not yet, truck only has 1,300 miles. 2 & 3) . Since the CEL is no longer illuminated, I'd be relieved, but would still keep the dealer appointment. Do you still have OnStar activated? If so, they may be able to tell you what the code is, and provide input on what you should do. The Owner's Manual speaks to this in a generic fashion. The '22 Owner's manual is page 117 & 118. Your manual may be different pages. If you have downloaded the pdf version, you can do a ctrl+F to bring up the search box, and then type the word emission to help you find the pages that cover the very generic explanation. Hope this helps.