Elite130

I just had the valve body take a $hit on my 2022 Silverado 2500. I just turned over 40k miles. No warning at all. I was pulling out of a shopping center parking lot onto a main road and as I was accelerating, the truck hesitated and jerked about 4 times. Then the truck lost all power and then got a check engine light and reduced engine power warning on the DIC. I pulled over at the next shopping center. Put the truck in park. Ran codes on my iDash and got a P0700 "lost communication with transmission BCM" code. I didn't reset the codes. Turned the truck off for about 15 min and restarted it. Put it in gear and started driving again. The transmission was stuck in 5th gear. I could drive the truck normally (still in reduced power mode). My house was 3 miles away, so I limped it home so I could get all my work gear out of it knowing I would be without my pickup for weeks. An hour goes by, I get back in and proceed to drive it to the dealership. Truck is shifting normally, but still in reduced power mode. Diagnosis - Bad valve body, transmission fluid appeared to be burned with signs of metal flakes. New VB is on order and full rebuild may be necessary. All work covered under warranty. The item I do not understand is the burnt transmission fluid. I watch my tranny temps when I haul all the time. Never have I gotten the tranny temp hot nor did I ever receive warnings. Thoughts?

One thing to keep in mind, especially with our 3/4 or 1-ton trucks... make sure the wheels meet or exceed the load ratings of the stock wheels. I've heard stories about aftermarket wheels not meeting stock ratings. This will come into play if towing heavy. Do the OE Wheels meet spec?

I have been looking for cab-mounted rack options for my pickup to carry bikes while I'm pulling my 5th wheel. If you are looking for cab-mounted rack options, I found a couple: Expedition One: https://www.expeditiononestore.com/Mule-SAM-Rack-for-the-GMC-Sierra-25003500-HDDenali-CAB-LIGHTS_p_2288.html Baseline Overland: https://baselineoverland.com/collections/silverado-sierra-roof-racks RhinoRack: I'm told the Backbone mount from the 1500's should fit the 2500, however I have not confirmed that yet. I had the RhinoRack Backbone with Pioneer platform rack on my 4runner and I feel it is the best rack out there. You can do any of these racks and get the necessary Kayak mounts. Unfortunately, these are all $1200+ racks, not including the kayak mounts.

Ok. I'm thinking the same thing. I'll go with a lithium.

Haha... not what I want or need. I already have one of those if need be. Not looking to carry additional fuel (propane or gas) and my 3000 watt generator (Firman dual-fuel) in the bed of my pickup.

Thank you guys for the input! I'm look into the Victron DC-DC chargers, and DC-DC chargers in general. I'm assuming these DC-DC chargers eliminate the need for an isolator and they manage charging rates to the battery dependent upon which battery I go with. If I decide to stay with a lead-acid battery, is the DC-DC charger necessary? I'm just getting into this and don't fully understand all of the different options. There is so much more to adding a battery than I ever thought. Thanks for the help!

I am wanting to add a 3rd battery to on my 2022 Duramax. This battery would be mounted in the bed of my pickup inside my truck box. The purpose of this battery would be to power auxiliary items while camping without worrying about discharging the two starting batteries. The items would include: - Inverter (800watts max) - Running/charging a laptop or TV, 120v air inflator for lake toys (i.e. tubes, stand-up paddleboards, etc) and/or running Traeger Tailgater Smoker (400watts for first 5 minutes, 50 watts to run). - Air compressor - Viair 300P portable air compressor or future air-on-board air compressor I'm thinking I'd run a positive cable from the alternator back to the battery. I'd have a breaker with an isolator inline within the engine bay. The battery will be mounted in a battery box that is vented out of the truck box. The inverter and compressor will be connected to the battery and mounted within the truck box. Has anyone done this? Does anyone have comments, tips or tricks? Again, the purpose of this is to run items off the auxiliary battery instead of the main starting/running batteries.

Thank you. I have gone down that road as well.

Before you go down the road of researching speedo calibration, put the tires on and see how far off you actually are. I put 295/65/20s on my '22 which are 1" taller than the OEM stock tires and my speedo is a dead nuts match to my GPS and roadside radar. IMO, its not a big enough difference or deal to calibrate a speedo. If anything the speedo will show slower than actual speed.

I got a flyer in the mail over the weekend offering 1500's at 2.4% for 72. Unfortunately no 2500's.

I have Lasfit highs and lows on mine. They are awesome! They are really bright, like enough I get flashed quite often. I need to adjust them down like others have recommended. I debated about going back to stock on the lows just cause I don't like being "that guy".

Can you provide a review on these? I'm looking at getting a set and would like some feedback on these. Which compressor did you go with?

I replaced my stock horn for a MotoHorn Dual Track hoping it would be louder than stock... it isn't. Sounds the exact same. So if you are looking for louder, don't go MotoHorn Dual Track. That being said, I do want to try their MotoHorn (trumpet style setup). www.motohorn.com

sheath... I'm building my 2022 CCSB Duramax similar to yours to do camping and overall preparedness.. Right now I have the Baja Designs fog light kit (I have a Custom, so my truck didn't come with fog lights), Viair 300P compressor and 800w inverter that will be mounted under the rear seat. I have a truck box that holds tools, lights, recovery gear, extra clothing, towing gear, and miscellaneous other things. Regarding tires... I'd highly recommend the Yokahama Geolander G117 AT-XD tires in 295/65/20. My truck is stock, not leveled, and these are the largest tires you can fit stock. I wanted an aggressive tire, non-mud terrain, that would handle deep snow, packed snow, sand and still have on-road manners pulling our 13,000lb 5th wheel. The tires have a 4,080lb rating. These tires came out about 9 months ago and does not have many, if any, reviews from the US. Most are from Australia, and even those are not user reviews. I took a chance on them and so far I love them. They do great in deep snow and packed snow. I know they will do great in sand. On-road they do have a very slight high-pitched hum, but nothing that is annoying. I have only 2,000 miles on them. I'll do a review once I put more miles on them and run them through sand and mud and other off-road scenarios.

@GMCustomerService I am hoping you can help me with a warranty issue on my 2016 Camaro SS convertible. Please message me with contact info where I can send the details. Thank you! -Matt

Do you have a part # or a link to this skid that you can share. I need a skid for my '22 Custom

I was really leaning towards the BFG HD-Terrains. I almost went with the BFGs. The reason why I went with the Yokohama AT-XD's was for their snow and packed snow performance, which is very important to me since I live in Denver and travel to the mountains with deep snow, packed snow and slush. The HD-Terrains didn't look like they would do as well in snow since there is not much siping along the tread face and the tread blocks are very large. There are only a small handful of reviews on those tires. And even less with actual ownership reviews. You can't go wrong with those IMHO.

I'm curious too!

Why don't you just pull power from the battery to the seat track and control the heat and vent manually with a couple switches? This would help avoid having to get the dealer to program buttons, assuming it is even possible.

KC Lights sells an underhood kit that uses their Cyclone V2 LED lights. Comes with wiring and a switch. I think it would be a good option. https://www.kchilites.com/cyclone-led-2-light-universal-under-hood-lighting-kit-kc-355.html

Those are all good tires. Pick a tire that best suits your needs. When I was choosing a tire, my focus was mainly packed snow and slushy snow performance as I live in Denver, CO. But.... I also wanted sand and mud performance as we do a lot of lake camping and a good heavy duty tire that was designed for the heavier 3/4 and 1-ton pickups. I know, my list was quite extensive. Over the years and many tires, I found the more closed-block designs, specifically the KO2, there was no good passage for the slush to get out of the tread blocks. So I would be sliding around on top of the slush. Wet performance was not the best either. They did do very well with deep and packed snow. I loved the Duratracs in slush and deep snow, but didn't do well in pretty much every other category. The Falken Wildpeak AT3's are amazing tires. They did better than the KO2s in every category. The AT4s are just hitting the market now and the reviews are saying they are even better than the AT3's. I looked at all of the new RT tires, but I was concerned about the packed snow and slush performance due to the tread design. Especially when they wear down. The Yokohamas are new and checked every box I was looking for, at least on paper. So all of that being said, do your research. Each tire is designed a certain way to achieve a certain performance. Choose the tire that fits your needs the best.

There is a slight hum right now that comes from the tires. I only have about 200 miles on them, so they really aren't even broken in yet. I did read one review that the tires do hum initially, but it goes away. Time will tell. As for the ride, they actually feel a bit softer than the stock tires. Understandable considering there is more sidewall and the tread is 20/32" thick. They are marginally less responsive, but again, I attribute that to the thick tread and the tread design. I do not have enough miles on these tires to make a comment on the MPG. I can only assume with each tire weighing 15lbs more each, along with the taller tire and more aggressive tread (i.e. more rolling resistance), I will see a MPG hit. What it is, I don't know yet.

Sorry for being late to the party... I installed 295/65/20 Yokohama Geolander AT-XD (G017) tires on my 2022 Silverado 2500 Custom. Truck is at stock height front and rear. NO cranking of torsion bars or anything. They fit great, no rubbing! Looking at the Geolander AT-XD tires specifically.... 295/65/20's are 35.1" in diameter with a tread width of 9.7". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" with a tread width of 10.3". For reference, BFG KO2's in 295/65/20 are 35.1" diameter with a tread width of 9.8". The 35x12.5/20 are 34.5" in diameter with a tread with of 11.1" Another thing to look at is load ratings. For reference, on the Yokohamas, the 295 had a max load of 4,080lbs @ 80psi. The 35x12.5 had a max load of 3,195lbs @ 65psi. Just more things to consider, especially if towing. I have always been very particular in the tire I chose for all my vehicles. In the 35x's there are tons of options. The 295's the selection is significantly less. I have run BFG KO2, Goodyear Duratrac, Falken Wildpeaks AT3, Firestone Destination AT. They are all great tires for certain purposes. After a ton of research on forums and YouTube (for which there was very little), I went with the Yokohamas AT-XD. I went slightly taller and narrower with the 295's. I wanted to fill the wheel well as tight as I could without rubbing. The 295's also gave a little more room on the UCA in the event I upgrade UCAs in the future. And I got the highest load rating. Hope this helps.

I'd say go for it. Since you rarely tow, or tow 6,000lbs, that's nothing for the 6.6L w/ 10-speed. I'd get rid of my '22 Duramax if I could for the same reasons you are. Unfortunately I cant because I have a 12,000lb 5th wheel the I have to keep for the time being because it keeps the family (wife and I and our 3 teens) "camping" together and we live in Colorado. Go with the gas and pick up a Banks Pedal Commander. That might help with the feeling of any lack of power between the diesel and gas.

I have the Weather Guard aluminum chest box. I believe it is the 13.1cuft standard size. I love it!