tbully

Interesting. No there’s no actuation. But I will check this! Thank you!

Dealer couldn't find the issue and is order (another) switch. I'm surprised nobody else has had this problem here. I'll respond once/if they find the culprit.

Hi All - I know there’s a “spontaneous tailgate opening” thread but I haven’t found much info on this problem so here it goes….. I have a situation where the tailgate won’t open (reliably) with the button on the tailgate. If I push it enough times it finally opens. The key fob as well as the button in the cab work fine. Some info found online suggested maybe a switch. For $17, I gave it a shot - no go. It’s not at the dealer and, of course, they’re insisting on changing the switch again. My experience in electronics says this is likely not a physical switch (or even wiring) issue. The randomness of when or if it opens screams software or something “computer”/BCM. I thought maybe the truck couldn’t sense the fob reliably in my pocket. However, the “step release” button works reliably. Any thoughts / ideas? Dealer has had the truck for a week and no progress. Thanks.

I used the fender mount in my Yukon Denali and had no issues with it. This time I bit the bullet and drilled a hole in the roof. Nice clean install. If/when I sell, I’ll just seal and cap it. The roofline is high enough that it shouldn’t bother a future buyer too much, I wouldn’t think. Realize that may be uncomfortable for many/most. I mounted the radio in the center console but will be looking for other ideas to free that area up.

It's funny how I got laughed at when I started questioning a class action. The basis of my reasoning was exactly this. Vehicles that are fairly new but out of warranty (due to the normal high miles/usage of these vehicles). GM's "sealant fix" is/was a gamble to get a majority of these vehicle beyond warranty where they'll just tell the owner to pound sand. ....and here we are.... GM knows this is a huge problem and their response is "caulk". Still pisses me off. That said, my replacement window - which I had to fight for - (and sealant) has held for the past year and ~4,000 miles. (We don't drive much.) Good luck to you and sorry you had to go through this (again).

Here you go!

Hello! I use a mount on the center console from ProClip! It works great for my Icom 5100!

Oh dang. I didn’t think of that. As mentioned, I don’t have access to the truck at the moment so I will look it up online. That’s a great call and I appreciate the reminder. I’m guessing I will have to drop the inner part or distribute the weight somehow.

Thanks for the response. Only ones I see that has a semi-solid surface are about 7.5’. That’s around 26 degrees so it should be OK I suppose. Thanks again!

OK. Short of an opinion, can someone give me the height of the tailgate/bed when open? I don’t have access to the truck at the moment. A little HS trig will tell me how long I should go to get a decent angle. Thanks!

Hi All - Sorry for the most boring topic ever! I need a set of tailgate ramps. They have to be solid-ish to roll smaller tire things up like generators, handcarts, etc. (vs ATVs/motorcycles where you can use grated ramps). There are a ton of options. My fear is the height of our gates on the HD and getting a decent inclination. Anyone have any they really like?

Yep. It's a good idea. I will try to do this once it gets back in to double digits temperature-wise here in MI.

Definitely a bushing type of sound. (Not metal on metal) Only reason I thought torsion was that it sounds aft of the front suspension. I know there’s been complaints of the leaf springs making noise but I don’t think it’s that far back. Really hate noises like these because they are annoying and hard to troubleshoot. Thanks for the ideas!

Hello All - I have a weird suspension noise that I believe is coming from the driver's side but perhaps under the driver seat area (torsion bar). The best way to explain it is the sound a straw makes going in and out of a McDonalds/fast-food cup. LOL Even the slightest articulation causes it. However, I've only noticed it when a little warmer (above freezing) and more humid conditions. Has anyone heard and/or successfully repaired this? I'll likely take it to the dealer eventually but I'm guessing it'll result in a "no problem found" as it doesn't happen all the time. Thanks.

Adding "mine" to the thread. Built January '21 - ~150 miles on the clock. Unbelievable they are shipping these knowing of this defect for this long. Lawsuit territory. I thought maybe I'd get lucky. Nope.

Hey Cobra - Thanks for the kind words. I picked up the truck on the 12, did some work on it over the weekend - including the Nittos - 35x12.5x20 - no rubbing I don't think. I dropped it off at my detailer on the 15th to get tint, PFF and ceramic and I haven't seen it since! It has 50 miles on it! Haha! I pick it up tomorrow finally! On the kit, I see what you're saying. You're thinking of the one just below the "Elite" line. Agree that may be a better option if you don't want to cut. Looking forward to hearing how it goes as this and air bags are next up!

Cobra - I'm thinking of the same kit from Cognito but it is spendy! What are your reservations? After looking at the install docs, are you unhappy with the cut you have to make for the UCA "bump stops"? (Can't remember the proper term)

At the detailer getting ceramic, tint (35%), and vinyl.....

I carefully cut it with a hacksaw right along where the divider goes. Fit perfect!

Few more shots

Picked up the truck on Friday and went right to work! Cold in the garage! GMC illuminated emblem HAM/Amateur Radio install - including a hole in the roof! ?(It really is the best way! haha!) Kicker Sub install - including level control in the console Modified under-seat storage Ridge Grapplers tomorrow Future Possible lift/level Derringer + Pedal Monster WAMS BCM Programming soon!

The 295 is roughly an inch wider. Will they stick out on stock (+44) wheels?

Yes. Sorry in advance, everyone. From my research on this board, the topic has been thoroughly discussed. Many times, however, specifics aren't discussed (e.g. "Wrapped with 35" Ridge Grapplers"). I'm about to take delivery of my AT4 and one of the first things on the list are new tires. My plan is to go with a 35" tire on the factory "AT4" wheels. Research shows that staying under 12.5" (the max that most shops will mount on factory wheels anyway?) will yield the best results in no rubbing. I also would like to keep the tires from sticking out past the fenders. So, I turned to Nitto's page to see what was available and surprisingly found 27 (!) 20" choices with several being roughly 35" in diameter. Here are a the ones I believe I have narrowed down: LT285/65R20 E 127/124Q ---- 34.8" Dia ---- 11.5 Wide LT295/65R20 E 129/126Q ---- 35.12" Dia ---- 11.77 Wide 35x11.50R20LT E 124Q ---- 34.76" Dia ---- 11.42 Wide 35x12.50R20LT F 125Q ---- 34.76" Dia ---- 12.5 Wide Stocks are 275/65/R20 for reference. My next stop is to call a tire shop and get their opinion. However, I thought it would be good to hear the voices of people running these first. Are these the four that people are generally running? Are there others in the 35" territory? Some of these are "LT" (light truck?) rated but have higher load capacities than the non LTs - further complicating this...... Thoughts?

Mine was built last week (a week ahead of the TPW) and is scheduled to arrive early this week. My dealer is only 50-60 miles from the plant, however.

I sent Block8head a message on Sunday and no response yet. Looking forward to adding this.