DubVBenz

Well the 940 will last forever. I used to own a 97.5 S90, which was the same chassis. I know the 26 cummins will inevitably disappoint in terms of reliability, but my hope is that that it will be more repairable rather than a throwaway like it appears many of the major issues with the LZ0 become.

I bought a 24 3.0 new and in the first year it was at the dealer for 4-5 weeks for continued emissions issues. Last year the engine wiring harness went at 11K miles and would have been an expensive repair if not under warranty. I absolutely love this truck. The way it drives, the power, the fuel economy, the way it looks, the interior, etc. But my confidence after my issues and being a member of all online communities has been lost and I'm selling the truck I bought for a 19K loss back to the dealer after 29 months and 14,300 miles and buying a new cummins 2500. Everything about the interior and exterior of that truck is a step down, but I'm hoping the combination of a cummins engine and the new ZF 8 Speed will be more reliable long term.

After a bunch of research, I'm just going to stick with the OEM 20s and get these tires: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=TerrainContact+H%2FT&partnum=76TR0TCHTV2&fromTireCompare=Y&vehicleSearch=true&autoMake=GMC&autoYear=2024&autoModel=Sierra+1500+4WD+Crew+Cab&autoModClar=275%2F60-20 We've had one hell of a ice storm here in VA and I have been so disappointed in the Bridgestone alenza tires that came with it that I thought maybe getting an 18 with more sidewall would give me more options for better traction. After reading up on the OEM bridgestones, apparently they're complete garbage and the Continental TerrainContacts are a lot better. I run continental DWS on all of my other vehicles, so I'll stick to that brand. I looked at the Falkens, but they add too much weight. The TerrainContacts have a higher load rating too.

I have a 24 SLT with the Max Tow option, which gives you a 9.76" rear end, 3.73 gears, real leaf springs, supposedly enhanced cooling, and mandatory 20" wheels. The disclaimer when choosing the option is that the 20" wheels are necessary for the increased load. I'd like to drop down to 18", but I'm trying to find a clear answer as to whether or not that would affect the total towing rating, which is currently 12,900. I know I'll never likely tow that much, but I might hit 10K here and there. Anyone have thoughts or guidance?

After searching a bunch, doesn't seem like there's much out there. I've been daily driving the truck for 1.75 years. Bought it new in January of 2024 and it spent almost a month at the dealer in the first 3 months for various emissions related crap. Since then, it's been perfect. Was driving it tonight, and it started shuddering and complaining about servicing emissions, ESC no longer working, and 175 miles until reduced acceleration. I monitor my DPF and Regens and knew it wasn't near a regen, but I did note earlier in the afternoon before I took it out to pick up some dinner that it smelled like it was in a regen. Trans/Engine temps fine, DPF still showing only about 70% soot. From searching I've found, across lots of models, because there's very few reports on an LZ0 but a few on an LM2, is that it's an injector harness that might have become chaffed and caused not only an electrical voltage issue, but perhaps damage to the injector. I scanned and found overall voltage was just fine. Just curious if anyone has experienced something similar. Love the truck, it's my most fuel efficient vehicle by far, but I've been concerned about long-term reliability based off everything I've read online. I can't fit a 2500 in my main garage, so this was kinda the perfect compromise since I have the Max Tow and every possible option you could get on an SLT. I have it scheduled for the dealer next week, but it sure would be nice to have access to my truck for lots of necessary projects in the next two weeks. Talk about bad timing.

Interestingly enough, my truck's infotainment and instrument cluster stopped turning off in the last few days when I exited the vehicle. Normally, after powering the engine off, things remain on until you open the driver's door, but this stopped working normally a couple of days ago. I called onstar and told them I was still on Android 10 and asked if they could push an update. They said they were incapable of doing so and I'd have to take it to the dealer. The next morning, after I arrived at my destination, the truck advertised an update with no details. It's the first one I've gotten in at least 6 months. I accepted and walked away, thinking it was something minor. To my surprise, when I came back later, the truck now had Android 12. It also powered off properly a few times yesterday. Hopefully that saved me a trip to the dealer.

Thank you @newdude - For some reason I thought that TSB only applied to 2025 models. I will reference it on my next visit.

I have a 2024 SLT, purchased new in January of 2024. It had Android 10 upon delivery and later on in 2024 GM started rolling out the Android 12 update. I brought it in for a software update notice later on in 2024 and some sort of update was applied, but not the Android update. I've checked several times for OTA updates over the last year but nothing has popped up regarding an Android version upgrade. I did get the mandatory SW update that added cabin ventillation or something similar, but not Android update. So the question is, how can I get the head unit upgraded? Can I take it to the dealer and simply request they update it, or will they only apply software updates if there's an issue reported?

I have the rain sensing wipers in my 24 SLT and they completely suck.

My 07 and 15 mercedes have auto up/close windows with the keyfob, including the sunroof.

It would be great to ask the voice assistant to play a song or band on my USB drive, but any time I request it asks me to subscribe to youtube. Any ideas?

I put in a Rockford Fosgate 10" integrated sub/amp under my driver's side rear seat and it's awesome, however having some better speakers up front for mid frequencies would be nice if they were plug and play. The bass is a bit overwhelming unless turned all the way down currently.

I've had a frustration, basically since new, where my passenger side mirror doesn't tilt back into place most of the time after shifting from reverse into drive. When you put it in reverse, the convenience feature tilts it down so you can see your rear wheels. Upon putting it into drive, it's supposed to return to the original position. Mine will only return about 25% the time The other 75% of the time, it tilts back most of the way and stops. If I press my seat memory button, it then corrects itself. It's been a minor annoyance, not enough of one that I figured I'd return to the dealer for a warranty service. So I'm just wondering if anyone has the same problem, found a solution or if the dealer was able to correct it? One of the reasons I haven't bothered for a dealer trip is I halfway expect to waste a couple of days without the truck, only to receive a "could not reproduce" diagnosis.

It looks like they're just invoking the turn signal color full time. My only concern would be the longevity of those amber LEDs.. are they rated to be on full time? That's the only reason I would hesitate on something like this.

For the refreshes, they added a monoleaf for the non max-tow/NHT versions. I wonder if this applies to both?

The standard Bose system is apparently a lot worse than on earlier and pre-refresh models.The Denali and AT4 get a better version I think. Most people buy a subwoofer and put it under the seats. I have one but haven't gotten around to wiring it up yet. Lots of posts about that on this and other forums.

On all of my other cars, which are mercedes dating back to the 80s, the thermometer's have been near the road surface. Given that it's asphalt, the road surface is always warmer than the ambient temperature. I assume my truck is the same. It's more useful to know the road temp during freezing or near freezing conditions. That said, my truck's thermometer seems more stubborn than my others, taking longer to adjust to outside conditions after I pull it out of my garage.

Here's a summary of my work over the last week or so. I've posted this via several updates on different forums, and will consolidate it here, which is why it may read as disjointed. I have this working with Torque Pro on my 24 Sierra 1500 LZ0 thanks to the custom pids from Engine monitor To get torque pro operational on Android Auto, you have to use these apps: Android 13 and below: GitHub - agronick/aa-torque: Performance Monitor for cars with Android Auto Android 14: GitHub - Inside4ndroid/aa-torque-ex: Performance Monitor for cars with Android Auto (Requires Torque) - You have to be added to a test program to obtain this app. You can request your account be added on the github discussion page Note: Torque Pro is not available on Android 14 and above because it's been abandoned. You have to obtain the apk, and use adb to install with an override flag. Info: Installing apps with an outdated SDK on Android 14. Example command: adb install --bypass-low-target-sdk-block name_of_package.apk I cannot recall how I obtained the apk for my paid version of torque.. I have been searching and trying things for a week and cannot remember the exact step. If I find those I'll share them as well. Edit: I think the way I obtained an APK that was no longer eligible for my version of Android 14 was to install the Aurora Store (alternative play store for devices without google play), set the spoof manager for an phone using an older version of Android and then it gives you the option to download the APK rather than install it. After that, you can navigate to the Aurora folder in a file manager and find the specific APK. NOTE: You will need a license to continue to use it, so you must ensure your real google play account has purchased it. In my experience, it will keep trying to contact a license server via Aurora or Play every few minutes if you are no longer signed in. The Aurora store can be obtained via F-Droid, which is an alternative android app store that contains things google does not approve. The AA Torque app allows for unit conversions. When I have some more time, I'm going to try and map the 0, 1 , 2 and 3 values to text. Does anyone know what they correspond to? My best guesses: 0 = Not active 1 = Passive? 2= Active? 3= ? I've been playing with the custom gauges and pids. My trans temp still isn't the right sensor, but I'm liking the setup so far. It's amazing how quickly the soot percentage goes up in city driving, especially if you floor it from a stop. I'm looking forward to seeing how my regen status shows once I hit 100 % to see if it's accurate or not. I'll update once I do. In my daily driving today I went from ~31% to ~38% and varied in between. The value that shows 197 miles is basically static, because it's the average distance between regens. I can verify this with a real scan tool (Autel) that will also allow me to do a forced regen. I was hoping my ODBLink mx +, which is the bluetooth module I purchased and has an accompanying app, would give me that option, but it does not appear to be the case. That said, knowing my soot % and current regen status should give me enough feedback to avoid having to do so in the future. Here's the BT module I'm using, although others may work just as well: https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/ ODBLink does have a native android auto app, but it will only display text/strings/numeric values. The nice thing about Torque is you're able to create custom PIDs and, as documented on my above linked post from gm1500diesel.com

I've been getting sick of not having visibility into my DPF regens and other parameters. Banks iDash has a ODB2 that can display (I think) 3 values at a time from ODB2 and requires an aftermarket screen mount on the A-Pillar. Since that already costs money, I started looking for alternatives and I might have found one. There's an Android App called "Car Scanner ELM ODB2" that is available on the google play store. It has native AA casting abilities, and once installed will appear as an app on your refresh infotainment screen. It has to connect to the vehicle via an ODB2 bluetooth capable dongle. I've been using similar things for over 15 years for my old 2007 Mercedes bluetec (DPF equipped diesel), with the screen output being limited to my phone. Before buying the recommended and well-rated expensive ELM327 adapter, I decided to hook up my 15 year old cheapo chinese amazon BT and see if I could connect and retrieve basic information.... and ... it works! My crappy old adapter can retrieve lots of information, and I was able to customize a dashboard display on my infotainment screen side-by-side with whatever else AA is displaying (always google maps for me). Many values were unreadable, but I could get lots of live readouts that I confirmed were dynamic and real. The only DPF one that is useful with that old adapter is whether or not I'm in an active, passive or no regen. Other than that, I added trans temp, oil temp, boost PSI (BAR) to a dashboard just to test. I've gone ahead and ordered what's considered the gold standard BT ELM327 adapter, which apparently can read all the GM specific PIDs and supposedly allows basic programming, like forcing an active regen when the DPF is fully clogged. What I've purchased is OBDLink MX+ , which is also available from their Amazon store for the same price . It should arrive in a few days and I'll post a follow-up and screenshots once I do. It has its own app that can be used, but I don't believe it can broadcast to AA natively. There's lots of BT ODB2 android apps, but finding one that works natively with AA is difficult. I used torque for years with my mercedes, but development stopped a couple of years ago and it's no longer eligible to be installed on modern android versions, nor did it natively support AA (there were github plugins available to get it to work). My biggest complaint about the "Car Scanner ELM ODB2" app is that my dashboards look nice on my phone, but are mostly just text/numeric readouts rather than gauges on my refresh screen. I look forward to exploring this over the next few weeks and posting updates. I'm going to put the same post on the duramax forum as well.

I wish it would adjust automatically. Another set of buttons to press upon startup, just like the auto start stop.

delivered again. Thank you!

Thank you so much for sharing that video! Between that and the newer thread I posted, there should be enough documentation for me to tackle it once it warms up a bit. I was going to run the power cable down the passenger side sills, any issues there?

Thank you so much for posting this.

Please be aware that all of the guidance on where the grommet through the firewall is located only applies to models earlier than 2024. For some reason, it's in a much more difficult to access location under the battery. There's a post here or on one of the other forums documenting it, here's a newer one I just found on here: I have all the equipment but have been too lazy to tackle this. I tried it over the summer in 100 degree weather, and after removing the battery and tray and not finding the old grommet, I got pissed off and gave up. That was before I found the new location though.

Off topic, but I also have a 560SL R107. Can't imagine there's a lot of overlap between R107 owners and Sierras, hah. My dog can't decide if she likes riding in the truck or the 560 better. For the backup lights, people on reddit have been adding things like this to the license plate frame to increase the brightness. I have not yet because I don't like aftermarket additional lighting. https://www.vleds.com/lpx-13-red-white.html