Handy

I have a 2024 6.6 gas 2500HD with the 10 speed at about 15,000 miles and have not experienced or heard of what you are experiencing. I did have some hard shift jolts leaving stop signs and my dealer updated the valve body which eliminated the problem.

What do you think about Jon's comment about the gas tank being on that side? I am experiencing the same thing on my 2013 C3500 right now and am curious what you find out. It is a service truck, so my first thought was an uneven load in my cabinets, but I have ruled that out and actually have more weight on the right side now with no change to the 1 1/4" inch difference, and helper spring gap as you have described. I have been wondering if my leaf springs are worn out, but you have new leaf springs, so I am curious what you find. My search online revealed a lot of comments about a classic Chevy lean due to the fuel tank being on one side. I have been driving Chevy trucks for 40 years and have never experienced a Chevy lean until now.

I have 10k on my 2024 6.6 gas with 10-speed, and I love it. I never sense the shifts, and the rpms stay consistent. No issues. Averaging about 12-13mpg empty, maxing around 17mpg, drops to about 6mpg towing 7-10k over mountains and desert. I also have a 2013 Duramax service truck and will replace the chassis with the 6.6 gas/10-speed when the CP4 fails again.

That is unfortunate! There were also reports of the roof seam weld cracking on some trucks under the black plastic strips on the left and right edges of the roof, resulting in water leaks. Thank you for sharing. I will be more aware of it now, but we don't receive enough rain in California to test these leaks often.

I don't have an answer for you, but I have experienced an intermittent code for many years on my 2013 Duramax, and it is annoying! It relates to high voltage at the air intake heater, which, like yours, does not affect the performance of the truck, so I got a BluDriver code reader and reset the code while I'm driving as needed. Sometimes it comes up 3 times in a day, and sometimes not for 6 months. I gave up trying to fix it. Regarding your issue, I am not familiar with it, so I looked it up on the Grok AI platform, and this is what it said. The P0458 code on your 2024 Chevy 2500HD with a 6.6L gas engine indicates a low voltage condition in the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Purge Control Valve "A" circuit. This means the Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected that the voltage in the purge control valve circuit is lower than the manufacturer's specifications, pointing to an issue with the EVAP system's ability to manage fuel vapors. The EVAP system prevents fuel vapors from escaping into the atmosphere, and the purge control valve regulates the flow of these vapors from the charcoal canister to the engine for combustion. ### Symptoms - **Check Engine Light**: The most common symptom is an illuminated Check Engine Light. - **Fuel Odor**: You might notice a slight gasoline smell due to improper venting of fuel vapors. - **Slight Fuel Economy Drop**: There may be a minor decrease in fuel efficiency. - **No Major Drivability Issues**: Typically, this code doesn’t significantly affect vehicle performance, but it could cause emissions test failure. ### Common Causes Based on available information and common issues with the P0458 code, possible causes include: 1. **Faulty Purge Control Valve/Solenoid**: The purge valve may be malfunctioning, failing to open or close properly. 2. **Wiring Issues**: Corroded, loose, shorted, or open wires/connectors in the purge valve circuit can cause low voltage readings. 3. **Improperly Installed or Damaged Gas Cap**: A loose or faulty gas cap can trigger EVAP-related codes, including P0458. 4. **Faulty Charcoal Canister**: A clogged or damaged canister may disrupt the system’s operation. 5. **Blown Fuse**: A blown fuse in the purge valve circuit can lead to low voltage. 6. **ECM Issues**: Though rare, a faulty ECM could incorrectly detect or report low voltage. ### Diagnosis Steps Here’s a step-by-step approach to diagnose the P0458 code on your vehicle: 1. **Verify the Code**: - Use an OBD-II scanner to confirm the P0458 code and check for related codes (e.g., P0443, P0459). - Clear the code and drive the vehicle to see if it returns, ensuring a complete drive cycle (fuel level between 15% and 85%). 2. **Check Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs)**: - Look for any TSBs specific to the 2024 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L gas engine related to P0458. These can provide known issues and recommended fixes. 3. **Inspect the Gas Cap**: - Ensure the fuel cap is properly installed, undamaged, and seals correctly. Replace it if it’s loose or faulty, as this is a common and inexpensive fix ($10–$30). 4. **Visual Inspection**: - Inspect the wiring harness and connectors to the EVAP purge solenoid (typically located near the intake manifold or throttle body). - Look for corrosion, loose connections, pinched wires, or damaged insulation. - Check the fuse associated with the purge valve circuit for continuity. 5. **Test the Purge Valve/Solenoid**: - Using a digital volt-ohm meter (DVOM), check for battery voltage at the purge solenoid connector with the key on/engine off. - Test the solenoid by applying power to verify it opens and closes properly. If unresponsive, it may need replacement. 6. **Inspect the Charcoal Canister**: - Check the canister (usually near the fuel tank) for clogs or damage. Ensure associated vacuum hoses are intact and not leaking. 7. **Smoke Test**: - Use a smoke machine to check for vacuum leaks in the EVAP system, which can trigger P0458. 8. **Check ECM (Last Resort)**: - If no other issues are found, consider the possibility of an ECM fault, though this is rare. Consult a professional or dealership for ECM diagnostics. ### Repair Steps - **Replace Faulty Gas Cap**: If the cap is loose or damaged, replace it and clear the code. - **Repair Wiring/Connectors**: Fix any corroded, loose, or damaged wiring or connectors. Clean contacts with dielectric grease if needed. - **Replace Purge Valve/Solenoid**: If the solenoid is faulty, replace it (cost: $50–$200; part number for 2024 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L gas engine may vary, check with dealer or parts supplier). - **Replace Charcoal Canister**: If clogged or damaged, replace the canister (cost: $100–$300). - **Replace Fuse**: If a blown fuse is found, replace it and verify the circuit’s integrity. - **Clear Codes and Retest**: After repairs, clear the code with an OBD-II scanner and perform a drive cycle to ensure the issue is resolved. ### Additional Notes - **Driving with P0458**: It’s generally safe to drive short distances, but address the issue promptly to avoid emissions test failure or potential fuel efficiency loss. - **Cost Estimate**: Diagnosis and repair costs range from $150–$600, depending on the issue. Labor rates are typically $80–$150/hour, and parts like the purge solenoid or canister are relatively affordable. - **Vehicle-Specific Information**: For the 2024 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L gas engine, the purge solenoid is likely near the intake manifold, and the charcoal canister is near the fuel tank. Consult the vehicle’s service manual for exact locations and wiring diagrams. - **Professional Help**: If you’re unable to diagnose or repair the issue, consider a certified mechanic or dealership, especially for smoke testing or ECM diagnostics. If you’ve already tried specific steps (e.g., replacing the gas cap or solenoid), let me know, and I can tailor further advice. Would you like me to search for recent X posts or TSBs specific to the 2024 Chevy 2500HD for additional context?[](https://www.ziptuning.com/blog/p0458-evap-purge-solenoid-circuit-low/)[](https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0458-obd-ii-trouble-code-evaporative-emission-system-purge-control-valve-circuit-low-by-valerie-johnston)[](https://www.engine-codes.com/p0458.html) There is no gas cap on these trucks, just a flap. I tried replacing the solenoid already and it didn't help. Thanks for clarifying that your 2024 Chevy 2500HD with the 6.6L gas engine has a capless fuel system (flap instead of a traditional gas cap) and that you’ve already replaced the EVAP purge solenoid without resolving the P0458 code (Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve "A" Circuit Low). This helps narrow down the issue. Since the code persists, the problem likely lies elsewhere in the circuit or EVAP system. Below is a focused diagnostic and repair approach based on your update. ### Key Points - **Capless Fuel System**: The 2024 Chevy 2500HD uses a capless fuel filler, which eliminates the traditional gas cap as a potential cause. Issues with the capless system (e.g., a faulty seal or flap) are less common but still possible. - **P0458 Code**: Indicates low voltage in the purge control valve circuit, suggesting a wiring issue, a faulty replacement solenoid, a blown fuse, a damaged charcoal canister, or an ECM-related problem. - **Solenoid Replaced**: Since replacing the purge solenoid didn’t fix the issue, the problem is likely in the wiring, connectors, fuse, or another EVAP component. ### Updated Diagnosis Steps 1. **Verify the Replacement Solenoid**: - Ensure the new solenoid is the correct part for the 2024 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L gas engine (confirm with the dealer or part number, e.g., GM part #55511871 or equivalent). - Test the new solenoid with a digital volt-ohm meter (DVOM). With the key on/engine off, check for battery voltage (~12V) at the solenoid’s power wire. If no voltage, the issue is upstream in the circuit. - Manually apply 12V to the solenoid to confirm it clicks (opens/closes). If it doesn’t function, the replacement part may be defective. 2. **Inspect Wiring and Connectors**: - Trace the wiring harness from the purge solenoid (typically near the intake manifold or throttle body) to the ECM and fuse box. - Look for: - **Pinched or frayed wires**: Common in tight engine compartments. - **Corroded or loose connectors**: Clean with electrical contact cleaner and secure with dielectric grease. - **Shorts to ground**: Use a DVOM to check for continuity between the solenoid’s power wire and ground. A short will cause low voltage. - Check the ground wire for the solenoid to ensure it’s properly connected and not corroded. 3. **Check the Fuse**: - Locate the fuse for the EVAP purge solenoid circuit (refer to the owner’s manual or fuse box diagram, typically in the under-hood fuse box). - Test the fuse with a DVOM or replace it with one of the same amperage to rule out a blown fuse. - If the fuse keeps blowing, there’s likely a short in the circuit. 4. **Inspect the Capless Fuel System**: - Since your truck has a capless fuel filler, inspect the fuel filler neck and flap for debris, damage, or improper sealing. A compromised seal can cause EVAP system issues, though it’s less likely to trigger P0458 specifically. - Ensure no foreign objects (e.g., dirt or ice) are obstructing the flap. 5. **Check the Charcoal Canister and Vent Valve**: - The charcoal canister (usually near the fuel tank) or the EVAP vent valve could be clogged or damaged, affecting system pressure and indirectly causing a circuit issue. - Inspect the canister for cracks or blockages and check the vent valve (typically near the canister) for proper operation using a DVOM or by applying 12V to confirm it functions. - Verify that vacuum hoses connected to the canister and vent valve are intact, not kinked, or leaking. 6. **Perform a Smoke Test**: - A smoke test can identify vacuum leaks in the EVAP system, which may contribute to the code. This requires a smoke machine, so you may need a professional mechanic or dealership unless you have access to one. 7. **ECM Diagnostics (Last Resort)**: - If all else fails, the ECM may be incorrectly reading the circuit or have an internal fault. This is rare but possible. - A dealership or certified mechanic with advanced diagnostic tools (e.g., GM Tech2 or MDI) can test the ECM and potentially reprogram or replace it. ### Repair Steps - **Fix Wiring Issues**: Repair or replace any damaged wires or connectors. If a short is found, isolate and insulate the affected section. - **Replace Faulty Fuse**: If the fuse is blown, replace it and monitor if it blows again, indicating a short. - **Replace Charcoal Canister or Vent Valve**: If either is faulty, replace them (canister: $100–$300; vent valve: $50–$150). Confirm part numbers with a GM dealer. - **Inspect Capless System**: Clean or repair the fuel filler neck if damaged. Replacement may cost $100–$200. - **Clear Codes and Retest**: After repairs, clear the P0458 code with an OBD-II scanner and perform a drive cycle (fuel level 15%–85%, multiple starts/stops) to verify the fix. ### Additional Notes - **Cost Estimate**: Repairs for wiring, fuse, or vent valve issues typically cost $150–$500, including parts and labor ($80–$150/hour). Dealership diagnostics may add $100–$200. - **Capless System TSBs**: Check for Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs) related to the capless fuel system or EVAP issues for the 2024 Chevy 2500HD. These can be found via a GM dealer or online databases like NHTSA. - **Professional Assistance**: Given the complexity of the capless system and potential ECM involvement, a dealership or certified mechanic may be necessary for advanced diagnostics (e.g., smoke testing or ECM testing). ### Next Steps Would you like me to: - Search for recent X posts or web resources for TSBs or common P0458 issues specific to the 2024 Chevy 2500HD 6.6L gas engine? - Provide guidance on locating the fuse or specific wiring diagrams (if you have a multimeter)? - Suggest local GM dealerships or repair shops based on your location (please provide your city or ZIP code)? Let me know any additional details (e.g., other codes present, recent repairs, or symptoms like fuel odors) to refine the advice further.

Similar to what AndrewF said, on my 2024 2500HD, I used 84663240 harness, 84670050 harness, 84166962 retainer, and 25774623 receptacle. Everything simply plugged together, no individual wiring. All from GMPartsStore.com for about $152, including shipping.

I purchased the Autel TPMS Programming Tool TS508WF 2024 Version after reading advice on this forum. I used it to reprogram my 2024 2500HD tire pressure threshold down to 50 psi because that is what I run my tires at, and the low tire pressure warnings were a pain every time I started the truck. It worked great, and I have also been able to use it to relearn the tire locations after a rotation. A little pricey, but the cheapest way to reprogram short of having a friend do it.

I have been using a BlueDriver for several years. It is very small which makes it convenient to keep in my center console, and move it from vehicle to vehicle for trips. It interfaces with your smartphone via Bluetooth. I have been getting a nuisance code on my 2013 C3500 for years, and while driving, I am able to plug in the BlueDriver, open the app on my phone, clear the code, unplug the BlueDriver, and toss it back in the center console. I had a turbo code on my 2005 K3500 and went into limp mode while towing a trailer on a narrow canyon road. I almost came to a stop with traffic behind me. I was able to quickly plug the BlueDriver in, clear the code, exit limp mode, and resume my drive. There was nothing wrong with the turbo, and it never came up again. https://a.co/d/4IiAABx

I just came back from an adventure in Baja, where we ended up in some challenging rock gardens in the washes we were travelling in. I wouldn't do it again, but we had to push forward through them. I just inspected my undercarriage and discovered how crappy the Z71 stock skid plates are, 3 of them. The only damage I am unable to repair myself is at the lower a-arm front bushing mount. The bracket got bent around the A-arm a little bit, and I am unable to get enough leverage under there to bend it back. I will have to take it to a shop where they can put it on a rack, maybe remove the a-arm to properly straighten out the bracket. In preparation for the next adventure, I am ordering a full aluminum skid plate kit. I only found 2 on the internet for this truck, Asfir made in Israel, and Talon's Garage in Houston, Texas. I am planning to go with the Talon made in the USA. https://talonsgarage.com/products/chevy-gmc-2500-full-skid-package?pr_prod_strat=e5_desc&pr_rec_id=ff911a605&pr_rec_pid=8448511181108&pr_ref_pid=8448558235956&pr_seq=uniform. Does anyone have any experience with this or any suggestions, please?

I only have about 8,000 miles on my 2024 gas, but have not had any problems you are referring to. I love the 10-speed and consider it to be the best transmission I have had in 40 years of driving Chevy trucks. I also love the 6.6 gas engine. Driving 1-ton Duramaxes for the last 24 years, I consider the 2500HD to be a comfortable ride; it is all relative, I guess. I mostly drive empty, but also tow 6,000 to 10,000 pound trailers. Power and brakes have not been an issue. Fuel economy would be my only complaint, coming from a Duramax, but I don't tow as much as I used to so it is not a deal breaker for me. I have enjoyed the Duramaxes for their capabilities, but with all the complications and issues surrounding the fuel, injection pumps, emissions, and expense, I am happy to be driving a gas truck again. If my 2013 Duramax service truck destroys its fuel injection pump again, then I will replace it with a 6.6 gas/10-speed chassis in a heartbeat. I was just at my transmission shop recently and asked them about the reported valve body issues with the 10-speeds and they have not seen a single one of them, and they are a very busy shop going back 40 years. I went 150,000 miles on my 2005 Duramax without a problem other than routine maintenance. However, if you read forums like this on the internet, then you would think that the 2005 model had a problem with head gaskets. Not mine. My point is that there are often issues reported online that will not necessarily apply to you. My 2024 2500HD has not had any of the online reported issues and recalls either. It was interesting to read what Texas Gasser had to say about trailer sway. I tow a 27' toy hauler with an off-road car in it. The car's engine sits at the back because it cannot be backed in, creating a tail-heavy trailer. I towed this trailer with a WDH for 17 years with my 2005 K3500 Duramax and never had a trailer sway issue. With my 2024 2500HD 4x4 and the same WDH, I cannot tow that trailer over 55 mph without scary trailer sway. I used to cruise at 65mph, no problem. I have experimented with raising and lowering the ball, WDH tension, and tire pressures with little improvement. Currently, I am towing it without the WDH, and it seems a little better, but still a problem. With minimal tongue weight and an empty 2500HD, the WDH is not technically needed. My conclusion is that the circumstances are all identical except for the truck itself, so there is something different about the 2024 2500HD 4x4 gasser than the 2005 K3500 Duramax that creates trailer sway in a 9,000 pound tail heavy trailer that did not sway before.

I have a stock 275/70-18 (33.1") spare with 295/70-18 (34.2") driving tires. I went through the same thought process and decided to leave the smaller stock tire as a spare. It is a 1.1" difference, which is a lot less than your difference. My reasoning was that in 40 years of driving a pickup truck on and off road, I have never had a flat tire. One reason that I am a fan of the BFG All Terrain T/A tires. My last truck was 17 years old before it was stolen, and the original spare had never been dropped down. If necessary, my plan is to put the spare on the front to avoid a problem with the rear differential. Reading stories from people who have temporarily driven with a smaller tire on the non-drive axle, it is not a significant problem. I also wondered about the larger spare fitting, but from that other reply, it looks like it will.

I am at around 5000 miles on my 2024 with the 36 gallon fuel tank and I have never heard this noise or fuel slosh.

Thank you Bruce and Revrnd, you are correct, I was in tow/haul over the weekend. Whew!

I received my 2024 2500HD 6.6 gas in July of 2023 and I received the software update letter recently. I took the truck into the dealer last week. They also completed the replacement of the trailer brake controller, which was another letter I received. I didn't notice anything different on my 25-mile drive home. I specifically saw the volt gauge because I recently added a DC to DC charger to charge an auxiliary Lithium battery and I was keeping my eye on the volt meter. Over the weekend I drove the truck again and noticed that the volt gauge had been replaced with a transmission temp gauge at the bottom right of the dash. It is the second gauge over from the right, with the 4 gauges across the bottom. I went through all the dash display options several times trying to find a volt gauge and found nothing. I am using the classic layout with the "maximum" lower gauges option. My assumption is that the software update wanted a more permanent transmission temp gauge and for some reason doesn't think the volt gauge is important anymore. I would prefer to have one again. Has anyone encountered this?

This whole 12-volt socket issue is ridiculous and was avoidable by GM. I have several devices requiring these sockets and added 2 sockets on the back of the center console, 1 from each of the 2 batteries, 1 at the aux battery, plus the adapter for the 2 trailer plugs. They are all working great except for the problem of the plug falling out of the socket. I use safety wire at the trailer plugs, and inside the truck, I have to check the plugs every time I stop. If they are trying to phase out these sockets, it would be nice if they replaced them with a more secure plug like the stereo audio plugs, and something that could still handle the high current. We are launching rockets into space and we can't figure this out?!