quicksilverc5

Any GM Parts site.. Front and Rear GMC Emblem in Black for Vehicles with MultiPro™ Tailgate Part No. 84364354 Front and Rear GMC Emblem in Black (without the Multipro) Part No. 84364356

No, I used a metal coat hanger from the rear to pull the wire through. You can pull the charger pad off for more room.

6.2, Performance Pack, Color Matched wheel arches, Tint, Tonneau, Black Badges, Ceramic Coated, K02s on Gloss Back GM Wheels...waiting on readylift kit for AT4 Readylift BMC · a month ago No sir, we do not recommend stacking an aftermarket leveling kit with the factory Trail Boss/AT4 2" leveling/lift kit as you will eventually experience ball joint issues. We will have a AT4/TB version kit with new control arms with proper cup and pivot angles available shortly.

Looks nice. I modified my storage to fill in the rest of the space.

3M Double sided tape, line runs under the center through riverside and to the rear.

You should check your battery connection at least in 2 places... 1. Did you re-seat the negative battery correctly and tighten it 2. Did you wire the Pos line to the right fuse set? See My Pic. Third thing is did you splice into the correct wires on the passenger side or damage one while removing the insulation?

275/60/20...pretty much standard size.

The wheels are the gloss black wheels that normally come on an elevation. But I have BFG K02s instead. RD3 Wheels, 20" x 9" (50.8 cm x 22.9 cm) Black gloss painted aluminum 2019 Wheel RPOs attached 2019 Wheel RPOs.pdf

Well there was an earlier post that said all you had to undo was the top bolts to remove it. I removed the entire font valance, which I would not recommend for most to do. 1. You have to remove the wheel arch moldings at least half way to reach a bolt towards the top of the front Valance. 2. There are push clips and body clips everywhere. The hard ones are where the valance meets the front fender as its really hard to get the trim tool in there 3. There are to clips that hold the fog lamp air intake to the Frame, 2 clips and 3 U-Body clips for the trim by the headlights, 3 push clips across the front and 4 body clips as well. 4. You need two people to support the valance until you have the clips off so 1 side wont twist and fall 5 there are 3 bots on the bottom of the grill (that I though or think hold it on as well) 6. Replace the valance by starting on 1 side, do not do the middle section till the end as the trim that goes up to the headlights takes some fiddling to get right and with the bottom clipped you wont have the clearance to get them all aligned. The grill lifts up with a bit of a tug. I plan to never ever take it off again. Fortunately you can get replacement clips for the Wheel arch moldings from Oreilly or autozone. (I broke 3 right away)

I installed the kit a couple weeks back and its not junk.....its not the same as a custom box with a JL, but I had the chance to add it to my truck at cost. You need to do 2 things though... 1. Get the kicker bass control knob from best buy and install it ($24) 2. Adjust the gain on the Amp (1st 3 dip switches to have the 1st 2 up). Then you will have the ability to use the bass control to tune it to your liking (mine is at the mid point). Took me just about an hour to do and you cant tell its there. When I have it turned up, I cant see out my rear view mirror as its moving like crazy. The box is tuned closer to 70hz I say and does roll off quicker then a custom sealed enclosure. If I would have went aftermarket, I most likely would have spent more on just the sub and box. In the 90s I used to have competition equipment, yes its not the same, but at 50 its good for me and significantly better than just the bose. Plastic is not an issue, its well built. You can add dynamite if you like and you still have storage space.

While doing my oil yesterday on my 6.2 at4, there is a plug on the back right of the transmission (plug is facing the rear of the truck), its not on the bottom but on the rear. Guessing that may be it.

Yup, really hard to tell while driving normal, but lets you know at heavy throttle, love it.

In looking at the cooler design, it looks like you may be able to replace the whole setup with an AN fitting/braided line setup. The attachment to the block looks to be similar to the LS designs, When I have a chance I need to look at the attachment to the radiator. Of course if you do this and mess up its all on you. Other option is to do a delete. We'll have to see if its an issue like the window....bad supplier or if it a design flaw do to pressure changes. I notice that my Oil Pressure varies quite a bit while driving and that could be stressing the connection.

TY, I originally wanted the Pacific Blue, then Satin Steele...hard to find around here and when I did they were gone before I could get em. This one was special ordered with the performance pack and the painted wheel arch to match...the guy that ordered it backed out. Really glad I got it and so glad I got the performance pack. The wheels & emblems and overall tones work well together so really happy with what I ended up with. Just need to level the front a bit and will be all set. Just put on a ceramic coating before this pick..took 1.5 bottles to do, still need to do the rims. Really makes it pop.

I did mine the hard way, which the front grill removal is a B$%#. Looks sweet though. The rears are easy with a heat gun and masking tape. A little harder since all the letters are the same. Since I have the Dark Sky Metallic and swapped for Black wheels its a good combo.

Not yet, but I am only around 600 Mi. Is it one side or both? I can imagine if its the left side that it could be caused by sliding out vice stepping out that may cause additional wear/stress on that part of the Seat. I noticed that I had a tendency to do that because I was used to the power step bars on my F150 that came out farther than the at4 ones, so i tended to just bypass them to get out.

yup, a complex solution to a simple item (metal tabs on the brakes that rub when low)....ignore it for the most part, just check your pads when ya rotate. BTW 600 Mi, 99% for mine.

I dialed it in so base was at 0 so the fronts and bose would not work to hard, then adjusted the base control where I wanted it. The doors and bose sub just fill in the sounstage enough and you can feel Pink Floyd base notes when you want to.

So I pulled the amp today. like noted before there are 6 dip switches that control level, the kicker EQ, auto on and Crossover. The first 3 are basically input level. Mine was 1up, 2 Down...response was very low, I did 1 and 2 up and it was much better, a bit high, but with the control nob, its easy to dial it in. The amp is easy to unscrew from the sub, so I would do that before you button everything up to set the level as you like it and would recommend getting the base control nob that is like 20 bucks from Best Buy. With that setting it behaved much better at mid volume and sounded like a sub.

Just installed this in my AT4 tonight, took about an hour. Hardest part was feeding the power wire through the firewall and routing the cable neatly but not that hard. Definitely need the bass nob to control it on the fly as the response from song to song is pretty variable, especially if you don't run a higher volumes, you don't cut any wires but splice into 2 wires with the supplied parts. Putting the black GMC emblems ( 84364354 ) on was way harder.....the front clip is so much harder to remove then the previous generation, especially around the lights and you really need 2 people to pull it off.

GMCs usually hold there value a tad bit better on trade. Also 5.3 was a bit to subtle. The 10 speed is fantastic on my 6.2 with the Performance Pack. Very smooth. For what we are spending on trucks you need to go with your gut and what makes you happy. Drive em all and see. I could not do the deal without the 6.2 and the denali was too much bling bling.