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My guess is valve body in the transmission went bad. Mine did the same thing, but I was stuck in a mid gear and could go 65 mph at 3800 rpm. My transmission temp got up to 205. Dealer fixed the bad valve body and serviced the transmission in 3 hours--all under warranty. Good luck

$4.70 85 oct.

As you know I have done shorter OCI'S for years and my motors have been trouble free.

That should answer the maximum depth difference between the stock and the PPE so its not hugely lower. As to the PML pan, they don't make any claims that it fits the L8T with the same transmission and in fact leave their information confusing, however on the surface it says "for Duramax" and so its hard to say. I know a while back and not sure which brand it was that specifically stated that the extra capacity pan that particular company made did NOT fit the gas version.

There are several versions of the 5100's. Some for stock height, some for leveled, some for lifted. Side note. I finally had a chance to tow with my 30' gooseneck with about 10,000 lbs of material on it this past week. Hands down the 5100's made the trailer towing much more stable and comfortable. I even had 10 cmu blocks in the bed. What a difference over the stock shocks.

According to PML, the stock pan is 4.3" deep - (PML info): Dimensions: at deepest area, PML pan is 7 inches, stock pan is 4.3 inches PPE is 5.4" so roughly 1.1" deeper than stock

I had not realized that PPE has come out with a version of a cast aluminum oil pan specific to being able to fit onto the 10L1000 with the L8T engine sometime this spring. I was doubting that anyone would come out with something beyond what Dorman had in more of a direct factory pan swap. I see from one comment that is on the PPE site that they found the pan to be tighter to install then the factory unit and having to flex the exhaust down to fit it. I didn't lookup any specs if they have any as per how much lower it hangs but as it holds more oil and has fins outside the pan it would no doubt hang a certain amount lower. I looked back at the site and they do have some depth measurements to get a rough comparison to the factory pan total height or hang down if you will at the front and rear of the pan so that will give a good idea how much further down this pan would end up being for ground clearance issues. 2024-2026 GM 6.6L Gas 10L1000 Heavy-Duty Cast Transmission Pan – Pacific Performance Engineering

I'm in constant amazement over the number of people that do oil maintenance by how they feel, what they were told, what materials cost, what brand A claims vs brand B. Come to think of it, this behavior isn't exclusive to oil. They drive this way too. There is a 20 plus page thread on BITOG on Mobil 1 Advanced Clean vs Valvoline Restore and Protect it would be amusing if it were not so........humanly pitiful. Last Sunday we were are sitting at services and listening to a speaker talk about Jesus parable of the wide and narrow gates and he said something that hadn't dawned on me but totally fit the way people in general are about just about everything. He said there are so few people on the narrow path leading to a good reward not because the the narrow gate was hidden or hard to find but because the wide gate leading to a bad end it so darn easy and uncomplicated to follow!!!

That was also my understanding.

I had Bilstein 4600's on my 2020 Chevy and has the Rancho's on my 2025 GMC. Softer unloaded ride on the Rancho's, better control towing with the Bilsteins. Wife of course prefers the plusher ride.

I thought 5100s were for lifted trucks, and the 4600s were for stock...

Check the windshield washer reservoir bolt. They ALL are loose from the factory.

If one can't be found, a good automotive upholstery shop should be able to replace/sew in a new panel where the damage is on the old cover. It might not be the cheapest option..

Does your dealer charge you for the tire rotation on top of the oil change price ?. I haven't had any service work done at my dealer yet other than when I brought it back soon after owning it to have the front end aligned to correct the steering wheel being off center a bit. Oh they called me at least twice hounding me to bring it in for an oil change and pushing a 300.00 package of oil change and tire rotation and whatever other quick simplistic checks they would do. Only going off of what a friend gets charged for his half ton for the basic oil change and its the same amount of oil as the L8T holds, it was about 150.00. Once one buys a set of tires from most shops these days or so I believe, they will do free tire rotations and some do free tire balancing as well as free tire repairs. Certainly doing a tire rotation is no five minute job, and definitely not at home but because I run a set of winter tires on their own wheels, I swap them at home and its a one tire at a time deal because of the tire season swap although I jack up the rear and do it and drop it back down and then raise the front and do them and coordinate the tire rotation into that process for both sets of tires. I am using a floor jack though and if I need to raise both ends at once I use a couple sets of jack stands to have all four tires off the ground. I use either an air impact or battery impact and have electric impact as well so no shortage there of easy methods to spin the lug nuts, and then retorquing the lug nuts. None of it goes quick though but my wages are cheap though ... zero. I live an hour out of town, its easier just to do things like that myself than waste a bunch of time in town and having to make an appointment and probably a special trip and sit there at the tire shop waiting for them to get my vehicle in and get it done and not screw something up in the process.

I do have the 8 speed. Interestingly enough, after driving my truck for the past 2 days now, I have not had the clunking issue at all! I am beginning to think it may have been suspension/leaf spring related, and somehow when the shop put my truck on the lift to do their initial inspection, it relieved some built up tension/pressure that was causing my problem. I swear it felt I was a bull rider on a bucking bull the way the truck would almost rock back and forth slightly before the big thud/clunk when coming to a stop. I am hoping I got lucky here and it's gone for good.

Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like

Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar. One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem. Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage. He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit. I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard. I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost.

Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system. They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly. Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.

Front or Back?

Front or Back?

I appreciate the assist. Do you know where the grounds are in the cab? I have only found two so far.

I have a 1988 Chevy K2500 with a steady stream narrow oil leak at the edge of the base of the oil filter adapter. I crawled under and saw it with the engine running and oil everywhere. There are just the two 1/2 inch bolts holding the adaptor on but I question if I need to disconnect the two oil cooler lines from the adaptor so that I can get it all the way off to fix it with the new gasket pack from NAPA. I watched a video where a guy said he fixed one without removing the lines and pulled the adaptor down but it won't budge enough to full see where the old gasket is. If anyone has done this before or thinks I can still do it myself, any advice is appreciated.

do you have an 8 speed tranny