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Bring it to discount tire. They do free rotations even if you didn’t buy your tires there. I didn’t believe it until I tried and they did. You can tip the employee if you would like

Best part of this video is how it resets expectations. Wonderfully done piece. It also made clear a few points I've made from day one. Detergent oils DO NOT KEEP A MOTOR CLEAN at the recommended or longer change intervals. They just get dirty slower than a non-detergent oil and there isn't spits difference between them on this point if they carry the DEXOS license. Great thing about the license that gets missed is it assures CONFORMITY even it that means a low bar. One thing he did not talk about that I paused on an magnified was the condition of the oil ring separator. Besides a stuck ring a plugged separator and land drain back is huge when it comes control. We see in short order improvement in control IF that is the problem. Another item I took exception to and he did not make plain was the condition of the timing chest and under valve cover having something to do with indicating piston cleanliness. Schaeffer's Oil makes that same omission in their million mile Ford video. I'm guessing he has never torn down a Red Line HP, AMSOIL SS motor that has been on that diet from the get. What he showed in the video was a good deal of varnish. Something totally absent in Peppers 165K cover off look. I smiled because he did his at the same milage. He also makes the mistake of assuming oil temperatures in the pan are the temperature all over the motor even though he makes note of the piston being the hottest part of the engine. that baffled me a bit. I can tell you from personal experience and witnessing teardowns of family motors that even oils of the 1960's would keep them squeaky clean when OCI's were 1500 to 2000 miles without exception. At 3K and above you get what he experienced and the longer you leave it the quicker to gets to the junkyard. I think his is missing a opportunity not tearing it down again when he's done killing it. Time would be his only cost.

Very often the part number on the trim part is just for the vendor order/assembly plant and will not show up in the parts system. They won't make a bunch of extra parts that were not ordered. Keep in mind, lots of these parts were made to be "just in time" parts meaning they were dedicated to a vehicles ordered and sequenced for assembly. Also, trim parts will often say, paint to match.

Front or Back?

Front or Back?

I appreciate the assist. Do you know where the grounds are in the cab? I have only found two so far.

I have a 1988 Chevy K2500 with a steady stream narrow oil leak at the edge of the base of the oil filter adapter. I crawled under and saw it with the engine running and oil everywhere. There are just the two 1/2 inch bolts holding the adaptor on but I question if I need to disconnect the two oil cooler lines from the adaptor so that I can get it all the way off to fix it with the new gasket pack from NAPA. I watched a video where a guy said he fixed one without removing the lines and pulled the adaptor down but it won't budge enough to full see where the old gasket is. If anyone has done this before or thinks I can still do it myself, any advice is appreciated.

do you have an 8 speed tranny

here is the high speed control wiring, i would also be checking and cleaning ground connections high speed fan control.pdf

I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers. [These may or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.] These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality, strength) than default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose

Thanks! Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s. So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out. Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc). Next up is new BFG tires Monday. Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)

Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?

How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal. I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either.

3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas.

I apologize if I missed this but hopefully, you replaced the pan with one with a drain.

I’d like to add, I have no shifting problems, no vibrations or any temperature issues. Just a noise I cannot locate.

They discontinued the tensioner pulley but there is still an idler pulley which I replaced.

How long you running each OCI in the Vibe?

Idler Pulley… from what I understand GM and Chevy trucks no longer have an idler pulley.. they stretch belts for both belts… I had mine replaced by my local mechanic last year on my Chevy Silverado 5.3 z71 LT. They have discontinued using them on 2019 through 2026 as of a Google search.

Good morning! I have a whirring sound coming from the engine or transmission area when driving w/o towing when I accelerate at 1100 rpm’s. That’s how it started. Yesterday it was more obvious while towing a U-Haul even when not accelerating at 70 mph. I could see where it may have been possibly shifting gears due to a slight grade and the intermittent rpm changes as the transmission was possibly lowering the gear down. It was making the sound multiple times but it is not constant. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulley but no change. It only does it when I’m driving. No noise accelerating while in park. Just started @ 53,000 miles. It’s not always there though. Unfortunately, I feel it may be transmission related. Any thoughts or knowledge about the 2022 tranny that anyone can share. I have 2500 miles left on my p-train warranty. Thanks to all for any help!

RAIN. It's dumping buckets. We needed it. What a welcome change...sitting here listening to it pour with my office window open. Ok, not too much. It's not even September yet, we're not finished with summer yet....

If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video. There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.

Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat. What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically.

Pretty easy to just remove/drop the exhaust behind the manifolds. They're in no way hard to get to. Maybe 5min of work, and you get the opportunity to put some anti-sieze on them in case anything ever comes up, you eliminated the risk of snapping a stud.