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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/23/2026 in all areas

  1. If you put an extension tube on it you may lose the right to complain that your truck requires a step ladder to change the oil.
    4 points
  2. This is right up @GMCustomerService alley! I'm sure they would be glad to help you on this!
    1 point
  3. I probably didn't get all the miles out of them I could have. As I recall, I had a long trip with the camper coming up when I changed them. I admit to being a bit of a tire snob. You pay for cheap tires every time you drive. We bought a used car out in New Mexico a couple years ago for the wife to drive to work in the winter. It had some brand brand new El Cheapo chinese tires on it. I hated them so much on the drive home they were gone within a week.
    1 point
  4. I'm here to help sir. Do I know it all....NO....but have I done a lot of reading and real world use...YES!!
    1 point
  5. This is not a GM support forum. You need to directly contact GM if you have concerns about what is and is not covered. Or maybe go to a different dealer,
    1 point
  6. Hmm, I will check out the condenser as well. When I hooked up my gauges I had 0 psi on high and low side, and never smelt any Freon during the vacuuming down. My diagnostic tool was reading 5psi on the high side when it was around 80deg out. I'm pretty sure I had nothing in the lines to recover. Before I buy any parts, I am going to charge with 1 can of 1234yf-uv (8oz) to find the leak for sure.
    1 point
  7. That’s wild? So you think most people crawl under their new truck to check the transmission fluid level from the factory? To me that’s “wild” And upon the first fluid drop I’ll be able to see how much fluid drains out and cross reference that with the known amount that comes out and put that exact amount back in via the trans stick. Pretty easy stuff.
    1 point
  8. Thank You rjgvt, I don't have the 5th wheel option on my truck, unfortunately. Jettech1, wow, Thank You for the great explanation of towing TT and 5th wheels payload, much appreciated.
    1 point
  9. Let me try to clear some things up here because I can see some confusion. I'm not the God of anything, but I do know my stuff when it comes to towing. First let's start with payload and tongue weight. As we know payload is amazingly high on our 2500's especially the gassers that are lighter than the diesels. So let's say the 2500 gassers have an average payload of 3500lbs, of which most do. Now that includes everything added to the truck, people, cargo, you name it, everything is added into that payload number. Tongue weight is also included if you have a hitch pulled Travel trailer. For example, we have a Grand Design Imagine 2800BH. We filled it with all of our stuff, including the fridge, I filled the fresh water tank too (55Gallons) because it is forward of the axles then took it to the CAT scales and weighed that beast. The results were I had 7k on the axles and 1k on the tongue. Believe it or not my rear helper springs were not even contacting the base pack of springs. Not bad at all when you have 3500lbs to play with. Now, let's talk about 5th wheel and pin weight. 10% of the overall weight of what you are towing is the golden rule. So if your giant ass camper weighs 16k, you are looking at 1600lbs of pin weight that is over the rear axles. Totally different weight placement when compared to a hitch travel trailer. Now that 1600lbs reduces your payload by.....1600lbs. But you still have basically 1900lbs of payload left to play with. So let's talk about the other basic rule of towing. Stay within 75% of max capabilities for safety reasons. So your 1900lbs, for safety reasons becomes 1425. Not bad at all, actually quite impressive. You can add air bags, timberens, whatever, just remember those items do not increase your overall payload number. Payload is payload, it's a hard number. Those items might level out your truck and make it ride better, but they never increase your payload. I really hope this helps others and makes a lot of sense. Safety is #1. The rest is enjoy the ride because these HD trucks are friggen amazing!!! One other thing I forgot to add is that I no longer use sway bars for our travel trailer. To me they are useless and serve little purpose. Pump your E rated tires up to 75psi, and hopefully your campers have e-rated tires as well. Pump them up to 75psi too. Not a problem at all towing. Sway is minimum and I love not using them. They really are a pain in the ass. The 1500 guys have to use them, us HD guys.....throw them away....they are useless. Just my personal opinion all after towing our camper thousands of miles. Be well and if you have any questions, I might be able to help.
    1 point
  10. If you have the 5th wheel option on your truck, the gooseneck tow rating and pin weight should be on the sticker.
    1 point
  11. I don’t like cylinder deactivation. My odyssey has it. It is on way longer than my GM was. I got it from my daughter by trading my mother in law’s CRV for it. She went by the minder. I did several quick oil changes and do 5K oil changes. At 166K I can’t tell except for the light it’s on. With a lite foot I get 25 MPG in town. Same at 72 MPH on the Hwy. My brother in law with his 2013 Tahoe at 180K with 5K oil changes has no issues. Both of us will keep them until they die. They ain’t worth much. Except to us.
    1 point
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