OkieDavid

I replied to this back in April via the email prompt but I guess it didn't post for some reason. It most likely won't work. The 360 camera system uses a fiber optic connection to the camera and you will most likely have to replace with a compatible setup.

I don't know about the other trucks, but with this truck you have to disconnect a power cable that goes to the tailgate and you must disconnect a camera table. The power cable is a wide connector that you rotate a grey bar rearward to unlock after moving the red switch to the open position and the camera cable also has red switch you move to open and then just pull it off. The light bar is probably connected to your trailer connector so I wouldn't think it would factor in. I find it easier to lower the spare tire before disconnecting the power cable but you don't have to if you're flexible enough. As far as lifting it off, you first rotate to the 45 degree position to free the right side and then rotate back almost completely closed and tug in the direction towards the passenger side to free the left side and then it's disconnected. The power cable and camera cable are fed through a pretty large hole so it's pretty easy to pull those out once you free the tailgate. Of course you've disconnected the cables before you disconnect the tailgate.

EEB pointed out that camera source has a cover for sale now. GM 30 pin Dust Cap - Camera Source Backup Cameras

Mine didn't come with a dust cover, I just spray contact cleaner on the connector before I re-connect the tailgate, I'm sure the dust cover would be a better option.

Yeah, that's the one.

The tires low thing is a bug in the update, everyone got that message today, and the recommended pressures are like 600lbs and 1200lbs or something crazy. I'm sure the next update will fix that. As far as freezing, I had that problem last week, I eventually un-installed the app and re-installed it, it remembered all the settings and both my vehicles so only took a couple of minutes to do (Android) so that would be my recommendation there.

I have them on my AT4 2500 that I got about three weeks ago. They were an option when I ordered the truck back in March. I can't really speak to them long term, I had the BFG K02's on my last truck and can't really tell any difference with these. They don't make too much noise on pavement and seem to be ok on dirt, but I have less than 4,000 miles on them. So far, so good.

Hey gang, just wanted to do a quick post about the tailgate removal on a 2024 HD and the camera. There has been a lot of posts and comments about how on the 2020-2023’s that if you removed the tailgate you killed the other cameras too. There were some workarounds with different wiring harness, etc. but the frustration was there. I just removed the tailgate on my 2024 GMC AT4 with the 360 and the other cameras continued to work. I also plugged in a camera relocation kit from Camera Source a couple of days later to restore my rear-view camera with my slide-in camper installed. Just thought I would mention it’s been fixed, not sure if it was done before this but based on the posts I saw I didn’t think so. Also, and this may be obvious to other folks but 3 of us missed it, to remove the tailgate, rotate to about 45 degrees to get the right side out and then rotate back up to almost 90 degrees to get the left side out. We kept pulling on it at 45 degrees until an online video pointed out to us the correct way.

I've read on a couple of internet posts that it will be Jan 19th. But you can't always trust what you read on the 'net...

Not that I noticed, I drove it for a couple of weeks before I gave up and took it to the dealer, this is the fuse # they identified, and it works now. You would have thought based on the description that I would have noticed something else not working but everything worked as far as I could tell (taillights, backup lights, tailgate lock, etc).

SOLVED: It's fuse #31, "Accessory/Run/Crank" in the left-hand side fuse panel in the cab.

I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500. Ok internet gurus, need your advice here. When I'm using my camper, I would disconnect my tailgate review camera and hook up the camper, on my last trip, I got careless and accidently left some slack in the camper wire harness and it landed on the muffler. Needless to say, I didn't notice any issues pulling out of my driveway but by the time I got to where I was going the wire insulation had melted through and stuck to the muffler. I'm assuming that it grounded out and then shorted something out. I disconnected it at camp and when I reconnected the tailgate camera the blue screen and service rear video displayed. I had hooked up the camper probably a couple dozen times since I owned the truck and also coincidently I broke off the little clip that hold the tailgate wire on this trip so didn't worry that it wasn't working at camp because it wasn't tight. I ordered a new tailgate camera and hooked it up, still didn't work. I ordered a new wiring harness for the camper and tried that, still didn't work. I read through all the threads on here I could find about this problem and it basically came down to three things. 1) Fuses, 2) The Video Control Module and 3) Some type of Program update from the dealer. I tried checking various fuses but didn't do the Dallas Diag Guy thing of replacing the whole fuse block. Not sure I hit on the right fuse but the taillight, reverse lights and tailgate lock all work. I have had the truck for 95K miles and I take it to the dealer for oil changes so I'm assuming I'm current on software updates but I guess that's a possibility but since this is my first issue with the rearview but I don't think that's it. So, now I'm looking at the Video Control Module as a possibility or should I keep hunting for fuses. Does anyone know if 84624987 is the correct # for my 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 if I go that route? Someone posted that # and someone else posted 84691752, so not sure if that matters. Also, does anyone know what fuse I should be checking? The scanner shows code B127B

2024 Chevy Silverado HD To Be Revealed Soon (gmauthority.com)

Not to beat on a dead topic, but I took my truck in today (65K miles) for the tsb to be done. I don't mind paying for the transmission fluid to be changed because I almost see that as a wear and tear item, but what really pissed me off was paying for a software update from GM. You would think with all the know issues with this transmission GM would do what they can for free to fix it.

Been wondering this too. Don't have one yet, but do have a camper so this is something I'm wondering about.

I used to have a 2014 GMC 1500 AT, I now have a 2017 GMC 1500 AT. On both trucks, the passenger side mirror would only power fold when it felt like it, about 1/3 of the time. Sometimes I could just hit the button a couple of times and then it worked. On the 2014, I took it back the dealer and because it was intermittent, he couldn't find anything wrong with it. So yeah, strange stuff.

I've noticed the same. I had a 2014 and recently got a 2017 back in October. My 2014 seemed to have better reception. I do think the 2014 buffered longer than the 2017's, so maybe that was it. Its gotten so that I can predict which areas will cut out, so I suspect there is something blocking it, whether it's another signal or something I can't see, but there are certain routes I drive where I know "here comes a dead spot".

It would almost be worth it if the GM system didn't suck. Ram uses a partnership with Garmin for their uconnect system. I rented one for a week and was very impressed with the quality of their system, much better than what we have with ours. Yes, my truck is a 2014 and the rental was a 2017 but still, the uconnect system is way ahead in features and usability compared to what my slt has.

I had that on my RAM and it worked great, simple to install and did the job. However, it's nice that it's integrated on the new truck, one less bar sticking out when the tailgate is down vs the old truck.

I live in Guthrie, and I can tell that the this radio is not as good as the one on my 2009 G8. In fact, my previous truck, a 2010 Ram 1500 was better too. So both Holden and Chrysler can make a radio but it seems like my GMC not so much. It did seem that driving down to Lawton it worked great. I don't know if the issue being far enough out that the HD couldn't work made the radio work, but being so close to OKC that it switches makes it not work or not. Also, as someone else mentioned, it seemed to get better reception when the Bluetooth was off on my phone. In any case, it's hit or miss but definitely not as good as my previous radios.

I would say marginal. The radio on the 2010 RAM I traded in and my 2009 G8 are much better. I thought new things are supposed to get better. Haven't tried XM yet. I use Rhapsody through my phone which has streaming and my playlists in it so don't feel like paying for another sub (i.e. XM). I can get the stations I want, but it's not as clear as my old truck. I agree with bladz1454's thought that this seems like them pushing XM. If you viewed the on-line materials for Intellink, there are no instructions for setting favorites, etc, for FM, just references to XM. I realize it's the same process but instead of saying "for FM and XM" it just says "XM".

I'm in Guthrie. Grew up in Oklahoma but born in Atlanta. Anyway, just bought my first GMC in October and just now stumbled across this post.