I used the 1.5" lift of the Bilstein 5100 shocks and a small shim to get a full 2" lift in the front. I added the 1" taller block that comes with the Firestone Air Bag kit to lift the rear an additional inch and I think it rides just fine. The slightly stiffer front end actually makes the truck handle better.
Use an isolator, but not an electronic one unless your father in law owns an isolator factory and gives them to you for free. A standard Ford starter solenoid will do exactly the same thing and will outlast an isolator 20 to 1.
I found the 1/4 inch spacers on E-Bay for about $12. I don't think I would have bought the company's lift kit, but their spacers looked OK and they sold them separately.
The 1/2" spacers will probably work fine, there is a lot of travel in those shocks.
I have a couple of Elite cans and the older one has a petcock. Elite discontinued the petcocks around 2006 so drilling and tapping the bottom of one of the new ones should work fine.
That seems right on target. I installed mine on the top slot and added a 1/4" spacer under the fronts and I'm setting at 39" front and 40" in the rear.
The breather is usually used on competition motors. My track car runs three catch cans and they all have breathers. Our trucks don't need them and on the dirty side they would throw a code.
NO! NO! Version 2 has the OPTION of having a breather. You don't have to install the breather and they give you a nice O ringed plug if you decide to keep your system closed. If you can find version 2 as cheap as version 1 go for it. The outlets on the version 2
more horizontal than the original ADD cans and I think more horizontal than version 1 which makes them fit our trucks a little better. It's splitting hairs either way. Any ADD can will work quite well.
Thank you. I used AN -10 (5/8") push to lock hose on the the two clean air catch cans (mounted on the cowl) and standard pcv 3/8" hose on the dirty side catch can (mounted on the left fender). I bought two replacement OEM clean air hoses and one OEM dirty side hose and cut the fittings off them to use for all engine attachments. Probably would be cheaper to just buy the ends, but I couldn't find them at the time.