bass mechanic

i finally got it working, my camera is still mounted higher than specified by probably 6 inches, any lower and it will be mounted to the back window of my trailer. but it finally calibrated, i can move it and re-mount but it seems to be working, the image looks a little strange near the bottom like it bends up though. can you post a video of how yours looks in motion so i can see the difference? its working, but frankly the regular image of the rear camera is way higher quality. the transparent trailer is pixelated and seems of lower quality.

ok so i bought the $900 trailer camera from GM to replace the $150 GM camera that no longer works with my 2024 from my previous 2020 model Denali. I have read and understand the directions which seem outdated for the previous camera in the fact it says you have to mount the camera 100 cm higher than the tailgate camera which makes sence if i was towing a bumper tow trailer which uses the rear tailgate camera in conjunction with the side cameras and the trailer camera to make the trailer transparent. However, i am towing a 5th wheel which as far as i can tell uses the Cab mounted camera since the tailgate would only have a view of the trailer about 2 feet behind the tailgate and nothing to see on either side. reading the instructions that came with the new camera it mentions nothing about 5th wheels. but the directions when setting it up on the screen clearly show a 5th wheel attached to the truck. the measurements werent clear, for example how many inches from center axel to front lowest part of the trailer. are they talking about the nose of the 5th wheel or the front near the jack at the lower box of the 5th wheel? my camera is mounted probably within the 100 CM of the cab mounted camera though i have not measured it yet. bottom line is first time i used it it went through a calibration progress bar and said it couldnt calibrate. but did not say why. 1. there is no instruction on how to start over and re-check your measurements. 2. i removed the trailer, then re-added it via the GMC log in as it will save the profile. but it did not ask me to put in the mesurements a seconmd time but did require me to learn TPMS again for the profile. now it says i need to calibrate but wont calibrate anything just a blank progress bar. it will display a 5th ish wheel outline and image on it but it is clear its not set up correctly. since there are no actual instructiuons i can find for this process has anyone successfully set up a 5th wheel? how do you measure it in spectiffic and how do you start the re-learn process over again if you need to input the measurements again or change them? thanks!

if you have a new camper all electric brakes when new dont work for ******. they need to be burnished. i have bought 4 new campers and noticed you need to run the brake controller on 10 for a while. soon youll notice they start to brakse so sensitive that 3 might be too much. they should self adjust just fine on thier own. try a higher setting and periodically zap them at full power, if you dont feel anything hold it there for a few seconds at a time. let them cool and blast them again. it will take about 5 minutes of actual full braking time to get them adjusted and burnished. dont overheat them, just brake them in a little and youll be surprised. my 10,000 5th wheel with 2 axels can stop my truck no problem at level 5. sometimes if i am on mountain passes and there has been a lot of brake applications i have to turn them down to about 3.5.

I ordered the same truck from 4 dealers. 2 required a deposit and 2 did not. as it turns out my local dealer was ther first to get the truck and i took delivery yesterday. i heard titanium rush was on constraint for a while, seems to be resolved now. my dealer in colorado springs told me 3 times they would sell at MSRP when i got there yesterday the ass hats tried to hit me with a 2390 ceramic coating upcharge that i know for a fact they never applied! i protested, and they agreed to not charge me for it. i am so sick of these dealers playing these games. i cannot wait for the day the manufacturers finally do away with dealers as they serve no real purpose other than warranty work. they lie cheat and steal whwnever it serves them. it's getting to the point they lie worse than the government. anything to stuff their pockets!

Just got my 2024 Denali Ultimate yesterday. just curious if anyone knows if its ok to run the derringer from my 2020 on the new truck? when the 2020 came out i know several people had no issues on what was the new 2020 from a previous gen duramax from what i know i am pretty sure the idash can read the obd2 just fine. and from what i understand the derringer basically lies to the ecu changing the fuel rail pressure value and the manifold pressure data so basically the truck wont really know it is there. i can already tell the new L5P has a significant sharper kick in boost once it kicks in. still has the same turbo lag through most of 2nd gear but once it shifts to 3rd it hits pretty hard and abruptly. i feel like this is due to the revised faster vane servo and added HP i cannot imagine what the derringer will add to that.

i Managed to get my entire train horn kit into the engine bay with the exception of 1 horn. there was enough room inside the fender to get the 3 smaller ones, and the large i mounted sideways just above the front air dam. the compressor and tank mount to the side rail of the truck, you can barely see it from the outside.

My 5th wheel trailer is a Grand Designs and came with the turning point hitch. It’s pretty slick! I don’t need a slider because my 5th wheel pin has a giant key in it that keeps the 5th wheel pin from rotating in the hitch itself. Instead it pivots at the pin box where it’s attached to the trailer. I can turn 90 degrees with probably 6” to spare on a short bed truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both power steering and brakes run off the same pump, not sure if it’s belt driven or not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you have nothing hanging from the mirror like a parking permit or tag that blocks the front light sensor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish someone would come out with a big brake kit for these trucks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem with this is in places like colorado where they sand our roads in the winter it will get chipped and look like hell in short order. I would love a denali grill made from black ABS plastic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

8,200 miles on mine never had any issues. I did have the camera on the left show a black screen for a bit but fixed itself Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been keeping my eye out for a big brake kit for my truck for 2 reasons. I I agree it could use more brakes and 2 I think the red calipers would look good behind my 22x10 wheels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because comprehensive covers theft flood fire vandalism and collision with birds or animals. Collision covers accidents. And metal fatigue has absolutely nothing to do with any of these. Your looking for a warranty or a manufacturing defect claim. Insurance is and was never designed to be a warranty or maintenance program if that were the case everyone would be filing claims for that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can tell you right now as an insurance advisor of 17 years there’s no way in hell insurance will cover that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had my oil changed for the first time about a month ago and I now have about 8,000 miles on the truck. It’s been a while since I heard it but I think the noise might be gone or at least it’s a lot less than it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

that stupid thing is part of the alarm that when unplugged will set off the alarm letting you know someone stole your trailer.

I’m at 5k miles still 36% to go before my oil change and I would say it’s definitely not as loud as when it started Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

good because i am thinking about doing a vinyl wrap on that piece and possibly border around the inner grill parts with the holes. i think ill leave just the face of the grill holes chrome because it may be a real challenge to wrap the entire front of the grill and poke out all the holes to cover the entire thing. i have a black headlight tint vinyl that is a little like clear bra that may hold up better to stones, and it will give the front of the truck a black chrome look on black paint should look pretty snazzy

do you know if that lower piece is a separate part of the grill? so can it be taken off and painted rather than masking the grill?

Yea those are available now the +13 are a few months out. Definitely post pics when you get them on Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What offset and size did you get? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK makes sense on a 8.5" rim should come to a 6.25" backspace

here's thew bottom line, since i've spent literally days looking at wheels. a few fact.. The factory wheel i think is a 20" with a +34 offset with 8.5 wide rims backspacing is the distance from the inner face of the hub to the inside rim. tires rub with wheels that have a high NEGATIVE offset because the front wheel essentially swings a wider circle and will hit the back of the bumper or the splash guard. the factory backspacing is 6.25" and when i shop wheels and because i am looking to keep them close to the truck like stock so they don't rub and don't stick out. i don't bother looking at offset rather i look at backspacing. i can save you a lot of time and tell you if your going for this look stick with FUEL wheels. they are the only brand that offers high positive offsets and high backspacing.I I want 22's because 20's are way to common and i am looking for an ON ROAD not off road look for my truck. I also want exposed lugs not crappy plastic wheel caps. and the bolt pattern is 8x180mm so that limits me to about 4 choices. currently for me i have settled on the newly announced FUEL rebel 8 because it has exposed lugs, comes in 22 and +13mm offset on a 10" wide wheel comes out to about 6.02" backspace it's 10 inches wide so it should only stick out just over 1.5" from stock. also if your looking for 22" tires i am getting NITTO terra grappler g2 in 285/55/22 as they are the exact same diameter as stock (maybe within 1/8th of an inch) which will keep the speedo accurate and least chance of rubbing on stock suspension. in this size and load range E (pay close attention to this if you TOW) there are only 3 tires on the market in this fitment. keep in mind there are about 22.5 mm in an inch so if you get a 0 offset wheel from the +13 i picked that's about half an inch FARTHER from the truck. you'll see from their website at this link they do not have 22x10x+13 listed yet as they are pre-ordered still for a few more months. But of the sizes listed pay special attention to the BACKSPACING several of these wheels list a 4.75" backspace. with the factory being 6.25" this means even if you had an 8.5" wide wheel it will stick out 1.5 inches farther than stock, if you go with a 10" wide wheel now your a full 3 inches poke out from the factory outer edge of the wheel than stock. you put a larger tire on that combo and you have a recipe for rubbing and you definitely need a lift and or heavy modification to clearance from rubbing. If your looking for a 20" there are a LOT more choices such as the BLITZ as pictured above from the other poster. looking at his fitment he has probably a + offset wheel in 20" and there are tons of tires in that size. i like the blitz wheel but dislike the chunky tires, poor MPG, reduced performance, inaccurate speedometer readings and unless you chose offset carefully potential rubbing issues. I have a daily driver, this truck sits in the garage unless i am towing my trailer to go camping, dirt-biking, 4 wheelering, boating or need a snow vehicle in which case the factory wheels go back on for winter duty. i also think i am going to get similar wheels for my trailer to match the truck! heres a pic

that was published in 2017, so its not relevant to our engines. if the 2017 engines knocked so would ours. has to be something that changed on the new L5P