bass mechanic

i finally got it working, my camera is still mounted higher than specified by probably 6 inches, any lower and it will be mounted to the back window of my trailer. but it finally calibrated, i can move it and re-mount but it seems to be working, the image looks a little strange near the bottom like it bends up though. can you post a video of how yours looks in motion so i can see the difference? its working, but frankly the regular image of the rear camera is way higher quality. the transparent trailer is pixelated and seems of lower quality.

ok so i bought the $900 trailer camera from GM to replace the $150 GM camera that no longer works with my 2024 from my previous 2020 model Denali. I have read and understand the directions which seem outdated for the previous camera in the fact it says you have to mount the camera 100 cm higher than the tailgate camera which makes sence if i was towing a bumper tow trailer which uses the rear tailgate camera in conjunction with the side cameras and the trailer camera to make the trailer transparent. However, i am towing a 5th wheel which as far as i can tell uses the Cab mounted camera since the tailgate would only have a view of the trailer about 2 feet behind the tailgate and nothing to see on either side. reading the instructions that came with the new camera it mentions nothing about 5th wheels. but the directions when setting it up on the screen clearly show a 5th wheel attached to the truck. the measurements werent clear, for example how many inches from center axel to front lowest part of the trailer. are they talking about the nose of the 5th wheel or the front near the jack at the lower box of the 5th wheel? my camera is mounted probably within the 100 CM of the cab mounted camera though i have not measured it yet. bottom line is first time i used it it went through a calibration progress bar and said it couldnt calibrate. but did not say why. 1. there is no instruction on how to start over and re-check your measurements. 2. i removed the trailer, then re-added it via the GMC log in as it will save the profile. but it did not ask me to put in the mesurements a seconmd time but did require me to learn TPMS again for the profile. now it says i need to calibrate but wont calibrate anything just a blank progress bar. it will display a 5th ish wheel outline and image on it but it is clear its not set up correctly. since there are no actual instructiuons i can find for this process has anyone successfully set up a 5th wheel? how do you measure it in spectiffic and how do you start the re-learn process over again if you need to input the measurements again or change them? thanks!

if you have a new camper all electric brakes when new dont work for ******. they need to be burnished. i have bought 4 new campers and noticed you need to run the brake controller on 10 for a while. soon youll notice they start to brakse so sensitive that 3 might be too much. they should self adjust just fine on thier own. try a higher setting and periodically zap them at full power, if you dont feel anything hold it there for a few seconds at a time. let them cool and blast them again. it will take about 5 minutes of actual full braking time to get them adjusted and burnished. dont overheat them, just brake them in a little and youll be surprised. my 10,000 5th wheel with 2 axels can stop my truck no problem at level 5. sometimes if i am on mountain passes and there has been a lot of brake applications i have to turn them down to about 3.5.

I ordered the same truck from 4 dealers. 2 required a deposit and 2 did not. as it turns out my local dealer was ther first to get the truck and i took delivery yesterday. i heard titanium rush was on constraint for a while, seems to be resolved now. my dealer in colorado springs told me 3 times they would sell at MSRP when i got there yesterday the ass hats tried to hit me with a 2390 ceramic coating upcharge that i know for a fact they never applied! i protested, and they agreed to not charge me for it. i am so sick of these dealers playing these games. i cannot wait for the day the manufacturers finally do away with dealers as they serve no real purpose other than warranty work. they lie cheat and steal whwnever it serves them. it's getting to the point they lie worse than the government. anything to stuff their pockets!

Just got my 2024 Denali Ultimate yesterday. just curious if anyone knows if its ok to run the derringer from my 2020 on the new truck? when the 2020 came out i know several people had no issues on what was the new 2020 from a previous gen duramax from what i know i am pretty sure the idash can read the obd2 just fine. and from what i understand the derringer basically lies to the ecu changing the fuel rail pressure value and the manifold pressure data so basically the truck wont really know it is there. i can already tell the new L5P has a significant sharper kick in boost once it kicks in. still has the same turbo lag through most of 2nd gear but once it shifts to 3rd it hits pretty hard and abruptly. i feel like this is due to the revised faster vane servo and added HP i cannot imagine what the derringer will add to that.

i Managed to get my entire train horn kit into the engine bay with the exception of 1 horn. there was enough room inside the fender to get the 3 smaller ones, and the large i mounted sideways just above the front air dam. the compressor and tank mount to the side rail of the truck, you can barely see it from the outside.

My 5th wheel trailer is a Grand Designs and came with the turning point hitch. It’s pretty slick! I don’t need a slider because my 5th wheel pin has a giant key in it that keeps the 5th wheel pin from rotating in the hitch itself. Instead it pivots at the pin box where it’s attached to the trailer. I can turn 90 degrees with probably 6” to spare on a short bed truck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both power steering and brakes run off the same pump, not sure if it’s belt driven or not Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Make sure you have nothing hanging from the mirror like a parking permit or tag that blocks the front light sensor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wish someone would come out with a big brake kit for these trucks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The problem with this is in places like colorado where they sand our roads in the winter it will get chipped and look like hell in short order. I would love a denali grill made from black ABS plastic Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

8,200 miles on mine never had any issues. I did have the camera on the left show a black screen for a bit but fixed itself Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been keeping my eye out for a big brake kit for my truck for 2 reasons. I I agree it could use more brakes and 2 I think the red calipers would look good behind my 22x10 wheels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Because comprehensive covers theft flood fire vandalism and collision with birds or animals. Collision covers accidents. And metal fatigue has absolutely nothing to do with any of these. Your looking for a warranty or a manufacturing defect claim. Insurance is and was never designed to be a warranty or maintenance program if that were the case everyone would be filing claims for that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can tell you right now as an insurance advisor of 17 years there’s no way in hell insurance will cover that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can view the split screen with no timeout while towing I do it all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can view the split screen with no timeout while towing I do it all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had my oil changed for the first time about a month ago and I now have about 8,000 miles on the truck. It’s been a while since I heard it but I think the noise might be gone or at least it’s a lot less than it was. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can view the cameras I think manually while driving for 7 seconds Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You just have to have a trailer connected. Nothing else Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They do have dyno graphs on each product they sell. While I agree that an exhaust won’t make much difference on a gas truck, I also know that the primary limiting factor on the Duramax is exhaust heat. As I explained earlier when the EGT reaches I think 1400 or 1500F the ECU will detune. The reason EGT is so critical is in a diesel the fuel is actually injected as it burns. The problem this causes a f the engine needs more fuel there is only so much that can be injected before the pistons reach the bottom of the stroke. The flame is literally chasing the piston down the bore. The closer it gets to the bottom of the stroke the more heat ends up in the exhaust as the exhaust valve opens. Gale preaches on the fact he doesn’t like to inject beyond I think 26 degrees? (I forget) for this very reason. Now take the 2020 duramax I don’t know what exactly changed from 2019 but if you look the derringer made a lot more power on the 2020 than the 2019. It has everything to do with the 20 having significantly lower EGT. So if the exhaust flows better and more importantly stays cooler I have no doubt the derringer can put more fuel and boost into the engine with an advantage of lower EGTs I’m also confident the intakes make more power because anything that offers less restrictions on the intake or more importantly more dense cold air for an air hungry turbo will make more power. Banks also says boost is meaningless and he’s right, you can have a lot of boosted hot air with a low air density making a fraction of the HP less boost and more air density makes. I would be curious to see what my truck does at sea level, here in colorado we get robbed about 25% with our less dense air Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet may have to take u up on that! I just need to find some time, I’m running 3 businesses and trying to get my basement finished. Send me your number we will connect Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been driving with the derringer for a while now. While I can say I am not as impressed with it as I had hoped to be I strongly support this product over all others for a simple reason that gale has mentioned time and time again that I think your missing. The face is NO OTHER tuner reads the data out of the stock computer in real time the way banks does. If you go to their YouTube channel you’ll see how they have tested the competition against theirs on the dyno and I think definitely proves the others are the real snake oil. Of all the others there might be 1 or 2 that make close to the claimed power but the problem is they don’t monitor EGT or trans slip. As a result the ECM will pull back power when EGT gets too high. This will cause the truck to make less power than stock! So if there are any real gains they only occur for about a minute or so until the EGT hits the max threshold. They basically pour fuel blindly with no feedback as to the EGT or if the trans is slipping ect. Banks makes the power safely and will de-tune as needed to keep it safe. Also won’t load the DPF with soot. Why risk doing damage to your truck? All banks numbers are backed on the dyno. Look on YouTube for the reviews I have yet to see any that contradict banks claims but just the opposite from competitors. Gayle is a data and numbers junkie! Watch his videos. The man is obsessed! He has the data and based on the fact he is so up front about the research they have done, (look at the time they put into a diff cover!) I 100% trust their research. Everything they do is based on numbers. Other tuners are just trying to make a buck and have no proof to back it up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

looks good! did you take it apart yourself? how hard was it?

that stupid thing is part of the alarm that when unplugged will set off the alarm letting you know someone stole your trailer.