bass mechanic

Here's a theory, you might have a bad ground wire connection someplace. I don't know for sure but I bet the ABS pump has a pressurization process it goes through on start up. I suspect when that happens the bad ground becomes an issue and the abs pump motor is not able to turn on. Maybe the ECM uses the same ground point and as the voltage drops from the pump coming on the engine stalls. It may not even be the ECM but any component maybe a fuel pump. Try disconnecting the ABS main fuse, your abs light will still come on but see if the truck stays running and report back here Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

just assume when the light is on and your at E that the tank is empty and you need to be concerned! if you make it to your fuel station your lucky! how's that? lol

i have a ultra gauge installed that tracks my MPG much more accurately than the OEM does. and also tells me exactly how many gallons i have used. i half suspect the tank is a little bigger then 26 gallons because when the light comes on your at about 3 gallons. i find it hard to believe the engine keeps running and finding fuel even when on un level ground. with the tank that long you would think all 3 gallons would slosh to the front or back leaving nothing near the pump. but I've yet to run out even with 2 gallons left! i don't think i want to find the bottom of the tank but i can also verify that the fuel gauge is about as dead nuts accurate as you can get. at 1/2 tank I've used exactly 13 gallons at 1/4 tank i have about 6 gallons left. if there is any discrepancy its between 1/4 and empty because it should be out at E but there seems to be a couple gallons left. also the tank is for the most part rectangular top to bottom. some cars have an oddly shaped tank so the fuel level verses the amount of gallons stored at different levels is not linear. but the truck tank should be easy to measure with a float. also the fuel gauge samples the level over a period of time and determine the average of the samples it is pretty accurate. only time its been off is when i park down hill with less than 1/4 tank it will show low fuel warning because the fuel is away from the sender. also the low fuel light like most cars is nothing more than a thermistor. it heats up and creates a lower resistance when its not covered in fuel. if fuel is around it, it cools off and the light goes out. it is a pretty accurate way of measuring the amount of gas in the tank. the question is how many gallons are exactly in there? my guess would be 5 when the light comes on but I'm not going to test that theory.

i just did my first major tow. i bought a brand new Keystone 32' bunkhouse total weight 6180 lbs. picked it up in Wisconsin and towed it 1200 miles to colorado. i averaged 23 mpg on the way there at 75 mph on the return trip had a lot of headwind and got about 8.5 mpg in the wind but once we got to Nebraska MPG improved to about 10 mpg at 65 mph. drafted a few semis and saw 14 mpg truck is a 2014 6.2 all terrain with edelbrock e force supercharger. stayed in 5th gear most of the trip and occasionally was able to hold 6th gear on the flat or down hill. considering what i was towing and the speed's varied between 60-65 mph i was pretty happy with the results. unfortunately stopping every 200 miles for fuel sucked! interestingly enough it seems the wind your pushing has more to do with MPG than the weight. several times i managed 12-14 mpg behind a semi truck going up hill!

It probably wouldn't surprise you to know that the very first thing people say to me when they see my truck for the first time is "where did you get those wheels" the dealer I bought the truck from says GM should offer a truck exactly like mine with the blacked out chrome and black chrome wheels in a "SS" version right from the factory! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Black chrome repro's in 20"

will those LED fogs bolt right in?

i have a set of OE replica 20" in black chrome on my truck that just yesterday the 4th time i have taken it back to discount tire to balance i finally got them running smooth on the highway. all i can tell you is they had to road force balance them. they had to test for runout and rotate the tires on the rim, then re balance. the clips are no problem if you have recesses in the back of the wheel around the lug hole.

No I was careful in how I placed my holes and how far I tightened each screw so that the projector was in the center. It may be possible to make some small brackets or mounting tabs that would allow some adjustment if you felt you needed it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The relays don't buzz for this reason, the BCM sends a pulsed output to the factory bulbs (unknown why) and the capacitor filters this out so the relays stay on constant. The high frequency ring or whine you hear at the ballast is due to the high voltage AC that is needed to ignite the hid bulbs, once the halide salts evaporate the current draw is less and they quiet down some but they will always make that high frequency sound when in use. Also the buzzing relays without the capacitor installed only happens when the engine is running. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

the problem with this request is unless you actually drive with this mod the initial pictures you see don't tell the whole story. unless you can see the beam pattern and the light and dark spots while moving which are hard to see from a picture the pics posted are very misleading. trust me, if I could have got an acceptable beam pattern with the oe projector why would I have gone to the trouble of taking the thing apart and spending the extra money? the best way I can describe it, my beam pattern looked like the lights were pointed to the left with a shadow pointing in the same direction. it was so obvious that I felt like I was turning left all the time at night.

Do you have squirrels at your house? Better look under the hood at all of your wireing, I hope I'm wrong because they made a mess out of my wire harness on my Tacoma, over 1300 for the harness alone+ labor Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have now verified that my FM radio and HD are UNAFFECTED when my headlights are on. i am using the miromoto 35 watt HID bulbs ballasts and relay harness. my ballasts are grounded under the bolts that connect the strut brace to the front rad support on each side. the capacitor and relays are grounded on the passenger side in the same location. my power is connected to the aux stud under the battery buss cover not directly to the battery. my ballasts are mounted to the engine compartment side walls at the very front behind each light assembly. what might be different on your install is if you just did a bulb swap your using 9004 bulbs, i am pretty sure you have 2 leads connecting the ballast to the bulbs. these are unshielded. the D1s bulbs are used in the HID compliant projector assembly. not only so they have faster warmup and better output they also have a coaxial shielded high voltage tension lead going directly to the back of the bulbs. having said that i think your problems have more to do with the type of bulb and ballast and the fact the wires aren't shielded. you might try twisting up the leads and wrapping them in some electrical tape and then foil and see if that helps. however i do not like the idea of a make shift shield, it is possible with that much voltage arching could occur. i think it is vital that you not only wrap each lead with electrical tape before twisting them around each other, but make sure there are NO exposed areas of the high voltage wires. you need to shield them all the way from the ballast to the back of the bulb itself and even then i cannot guarantee this will help but it is worth a shot. i suspect the passenger side may be more of a culprit than the drivers side. please report back on your results, thinking about this issue i am sure i am right and glad i didn't go the cheap route. you'll find the actual swapping of the projector itself is the only real professional way to get the results your looking for.

I have not checked to see if I have this problem as I mostly listen to XM and Pandora but I suspect that the grounding won't matter the fact is the HID ballasts generate a considerable amount of EMI radiation. they are in fact a high voltage AC generator about 20,000 volts not sure the exact frequency but my guess is that the actual emission point would be the return wire at the HID bulb itself. you could say to a degree the high voltage at that location is a lot like a mini radio tower sending out a high frequency square wave. surprised it doesn't affect AM reception the way it does FM. since I have not checked my own setup, are you still able to get FM just not n HD? or no FM at all? if I were to look for a solution it might be to relocate the antenna to the rear of the truck somehow or in the back window area. might be able to run a wire under the back tailgate plastic spoiler to hide it.

Your mpg will improve with 91 octane fuel. A few years ago a guy I knew did an experiment by filling up a spare gas can and carrying it with him to get to the gas station. He ran 3 tanks until empty on 85/87/91 found the mpg was better each time. After the calculation was done discovered that despite the 91 costing the most he got more miles to the dollar and better performance with the 91.Also your engine has to constantly adjust timing due to knock with low grade fuel. Whenever timing is retarded you get less power from the engine and less mpg. Your variances in mpg probably have more to do with temperature because when it's cold outside there is less chance of knock and the engine will need to compensate less. It doesn't have to pull as much timing to avoid knock. Knock is a very bad thing at the very least it will cost you economy, but it also causes rod bearings to wear prematurely as well as main bearings. Worst case you can burn pistons and valves. Do yourself and your engine a favor and stop being a cheap ass. I just checked fuel prices here and today premium is 3.70 per gal unleaded (85) is 3.40 per gal that's a difference of 30 cents! If you put 20 gallons in you save 6 bucks! You said you were using 87 so it's even less of a difference. But I'll use the extreme example. Trust me your not saving any money! 6 bucks at 3.40 per gallon bought you 1.7 gallons of extra fuel! At 20 mpg that got you an additional 35 miles per tank full. At 18 mpg it got you 30 miles. If using premium fuel gets you just 1 mpg average better than 85 in 20 gallons you will have driven 20 miles more on the same amount of fuel! So best case is you got 10 more miles out of a tank of low grade fuel. So congratulations! In the end you got 10 miles or .5 gallons worth of gas. Your total savings was actually only $1.70 for that tank. If using premium got you better than 1 mpg average (and I'm certain it will) you actually spend more money on low grade fuel. Ask any mechanic how dumb it is to put anything but premium fuel in any engine with a 12:1 compression ratio! There's my .02 if you read this 35 times until it sinks in, you will have made up for the 1.70 you saved and start using premium fuel! Lol Fwiw until today I had no idea what the cost of fuel was. I had to look it up to make this post. I think the last time I used anything but premium was in my 1978 ford pinto. I swipe my card, select 91 (or 93 if they have it) and let it run until it stops. Select "no" for a receipt and leave. I couldn't tell you how much my last full up was and I don't care. I do monitor my mpg and try to drive efficiently whenever I can. But at the end of the day I can only control my driving, not the price of gas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this is the first legitimate post I have seen for impressive fuel economy! I did 22.5 mpg on my 400 mile average through the rocky mountains as well in my 6.2L but a little secret I've been holding out on and I think you can probably verify my theory.. yes you do have to go up the hills to coast down, but I think because of the amazing torque of these engines and the he fact you are trying to achieve the best MPG. if you drive like me likely your at or below the speed limit going up the hills. usually you can average about 15 mpg on the way up, but on the way down often times your at 99 mpg (using 0 fuel) while you coast. in my Tacoma I used to shift to N all the time on the down hills. it allows you to use that inertia to get you a good distance up the next hill. in fact you can coast for miles and stay near the Posted speed limit, sometimes 10 mph over sometimes less than the PSL. I haven't done much neutral costing in the sierra but I know it will average about 70-75 mpg while idling and coasting down a hill. so here's my theory.. when going down hill I often will just touch the gas pedal to attain 75 mpg which is the same fuel used if I am in N but also allowing the truck to coast as if in neutral while staying in gear, essentially I am taking away most if not all the engine braking until I get to a point I am going over the PSL in which case I let off which will cut the fuel injection off and yield infinite MPG (99 mpg) when you drive on flat ground you have to have the truck constantly in drive and constantly using fuel. there simply is no time your going to be in fuel cut unless your slowing down. going over the mountains is a different story, your not really using a lot of extra gas getting up the hills, first off at my elevation there is less air density, this means you use less energy to push through it and it get's better as you go up in elevation. (you also tend to use less fuel cause you have less air. additionally, going up the hill slower means less fuel used. fuel you get to save further going down the other side. I also know this is true because I consistently get about 2-3 better mpg than everyone else living in colorado

ok well as the guy i talked to said, they aren't meant for a stock ride height application (his words not mine) i was speaking to him on the phone as i looked at your pics. but anyway apparently you feel they work just fine, i guess my concern is if they are for lifted applications have you ever had one bottom out before hitting the bump stop? he did say that the coil over would raise the front and level out the truck. but can you tell me exactly what is better in your opinion? if i am being honest i think the overall ride is great with the factory shocks, i just don't like the shutter effect i get when hitting manhole covers potholes and such. also the truck gets tossed up hard over dips and my butt leaves the seat as i get launched into the air. highway and normal around town i have no complaints. i do feel the sway bar helped a lot with turning especially since i ditched the factory 18" wheels in favor of V rated 20" rims and rubber. i never take my truck off road so i could care less about that. i just feel the truck bounces a little too much but i have an all terrain i don't know what to compare it to if the regular SLT non Z71 package is any different. tell me in exact words what is better and in what conditions. for that kind of dough I'm not convinced its a good investment just yet.

well for your information, I still have a 5 year 100k mile warranty that is transferrable to a new owner so I didn't give anything up there. Also my highway MPG hasn't changed and if I was at all concerned about my city MPG I would not have done it. But fortunately for me I can afford the price of fuel! whatever the cost.. As for a boosted engine not being designed for it? hmm I guess the new C7 stingray Z06 isn't designed to have 650 hp either? LAME! whatever! and clearly your not getting the genius award! Thanks for admitting that.. anyone who feels the need to put a bunch of stupid colored lights on their truck ain't the brightest bulb in the bunch (no pun intended) I actually thought the whole process of being the FIRST to get a new and innovative product was kinda fun (except for the waiting part) But the good news is, now your all butt hurt that my truck is WAY faster than yours! LMAO! And your right this forum is for enthusiasts to share their opinions. you've heard the saying they are like ***holes everyone has one and they are all a little different and in my opinion putting colored lights on your truck is not only illegal in the eyes of the law but is only for the entertainment of others. it neither makes you see better, drive better, saves you money or gas and it serves no purpose other than to attract attention to yourself. On the other hand an SC can significantly increase your towing ability especially when you live at 6,500 feet above seal level and towing a trailer. As a matter of fact my MPG actually improves when I am not towing anything up hills because my truck stays in 6th gear. A blower also reduces pumping losses and with the intercooler actually makes a more dense air charge. all of that = better MPG JUST FOR YOUR INFORMATION! and like you I really couldn't give 2 turds what you think about my truck, how I spend my money or how slow your truck is. your the one that has to live with it and the payment, not me.. but at least all your friends will think your the cat's meow with your disco lights that change color. Just make sure you don't run them while on the road, everyone else will be laughing at you and the cops will certainly pull you over. since you can't drive with them on while on the road, I guess you could park in the parking lot and entertain the teenagers, but they aren't usually into trucks. They drive smaller cars with big fart tip exhausts and a giant wing on the back and pretend to be fast. Every friday night we have a whole parking lot of them by the local target store. it's a real sight! there you might fit in and find someone who does give 2 turds and thinks it serves some kind of purpose. I drive my truck long distances in the dark on a desolate highway and my modified lights actually serve a very good function. if my lights are made in china so be it! as I see it your getting the same ones I got but I was smart enough to figure out how to do the install on my own in my own garage and with about 5 hours of my time. obviously you felt the lights were inadequate or you wouldn't have spent 500 + dollars to do the modification also. isn't that the pot calling the kettle black? Bass mechanic OUT! lol

I talked to fabtech and gave them your part number in the pic you provided, he said the shocks you have are part of a kit they sell for 2wd and you have to change out the upper control arm. he said they wont make any difference verses stock for me. and they don't make any for my application. he thinks the bouncing in dealing with is when I hit a dip the suspension is hitting the bump stops. putting weight in the back of the truck will solve my problems on the rear and the front is what it is. unless I plan to lift the truck there are no factory height applications made from any manufacturer he knows of. I don't want to lift the truck. I might consider air ride in the future to lower the truck when loading my dirt bike. but otherwise I don't want it any higher, don't need it any higher. so I guess ill have to deal with the factory shocks.

This disease is called "domestic rice" I never could understand why people feel the need to customize everything with stupid colored lights! What's wrong with the white ones in the front, red in the back and the orange blinky ones that indicate your intentions. I modified my lights for function not to impress the teenage ricer crowd Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Apparently Fabtec doesn't make any applications for a stock truck height. is your truck lifted?

i have the same bar, but i am thinking about shocks. are those shocks adjustable as far as compression and rebound? what exactly was better with the shocks you got verses stock.?