insidethreat07

Yeah it was some type of sensor under the steering wheel. It was sending wrong information to the computer where it was putting my truck into a security safe mode. I can't remember what the part was called though

Truck is a 2000 Silverado 6.0 with the 4L80E trans with 250k miles, no burnt fluid and it still looks pretty clean. After shifting into 4th when the converter locks up and drops 4-500 rpm, every once and a great while there will be like a rpm flare up 3-400 rpm then drops down again quickly. Happens maybe once a week. Any advice on what could be causing this. I did some reading around and possible a solenoid? It happens with and without towing my car and car trailer behind it.

Fair enough. I'll probably grab some of that stop leak and see what happens

I bought the cold AC brand that also has the leak stopper in it as well.

As the title states I have a 2000 Silverado 2500 6.0 with some AC issues. Back in march I put a new compressor, orifice tube filter, and accumulator in. About a 3 weeks ago the air hasn't been as cold as before, it's been cool but not cold. The AC compressor has been kicking off and on like clock work. I thought maybe the high pressure switch on the accumulator was bad so I replaced it and same thing. So I bought the refrigerant in a can yesterday and hooked it up and the PSI on the guage read about 35 PSI. So I put it up to about 40 PSI and and instantly got colder. Now today after getting home from work the air is back to being just "cool", so I just hooked the guage back up and while the clutch is engaged I can watch the PSI needle steadily drop to about 25PSI, then the clutch disengages and then I can steadily watch the PSI climb to about 55-60PSI then the clutch engages again and the PSI drops again, and this pattern just continues. Also the compressor is engaging and disengaging even the the AC button in the truck if off and just the regular air is on. Any tips on what to do next? No I haven't added any dye yet to see if it's leaking anywhere either. Trying to make that a last resort

http://www.opt-7.com/redline-triple-led-tailgate-light-bar-with-reverse-sequential-turn-signals/

Alright on my 2000 Silverado 6.0 LQ4 I bought speed engineering long tubes and x pipe. I know it will be stupid loud basically straight piped, I do have some 3" glass packs I could use but I have a feeling those will barely cut down the loudness at all. Other than high flow cats which I don't want to put on unless I absolutely have to, would a muffler help cut down on the some sound and mainly cut down on any rasp and keep it somewhat decent in the truck. I really liked how it sounded with stock exhaust minus the muffler. Not sure what I should do

Bought a set of Mastercraft AXT 265/70/16 and some new exhaust for the truck

2001 Camaro V6. I've done pretty well with it over the years

A bulb is bad somewhere. I used LEDs and a different flasher for mine

I got a 2000 2500 6.0. It like the gas but doesn't have any problems towing. I'd get a 5.3 or 6.0

Its all good, no worries

he already told me that he is going to check all that stuff only bad thing is he can only check 1 or 2 things while my truck won't start, once it starts, it usually doesn't have a problem. Engine coolant temp sensor I'm assuming?

No as in not starting at all. I don't have a direct injector engine either

Ahh fair enough. I only use 87. i did put some of the lucas injector cleaner in the tank about 3-4 days before all this happened but I don't think that should affect it any, I've been using it for quite a while