Panik

Lol, sorry no. I actually had to look up what you were referring to. I do know that there is a TSB out for 15-18 torque converters. Basically implying that torque converter failure is a known issue. From memory the recommendation is to not replace the torque converter at this time as it will not necessarily fix the problem. Service techs are supposed to flush the entire system three times. Apparently they are expecting a fix sometime first quarter of 2019. Anecdotally, I've heard that the the fluid that has been used is the issue. Either way I would seriously suggest getting it check at a reputable shop and if there is an issue getting the truck to a dealer if it is under warranty.

Late to the party, but get it checked out ASAP if you haven't already. I have a '14 5.3L that started having shuddering issues. Stopped by my local mechanic and had him test ride with me with the truck hooked up to a computer. Diagnosed that it was likely bad torque converter as well as separately that there were misses - likely due to carbon build-up. (Plugs and wires were just recently replaced as it was coming due) I've got a pretty good relationship with him, so I left it with him to clean out the carbon and then take it to the dealer for the torque converter as it was still under the 5yr/100K power train warranty. Stopped by his shop today and heard that the dealer was going to have to re-build the transmission. I'm guessing the torque converter shat metal bits into the fluid and chewed everything else up. TL:DR - I'm getting the transmission rebuilt under warranty with like 1200miles left on the 5yr/100,000.

I haven't installed yet but I am in the process of getting organized to install an Airlift 7200 wireless system to control the airbags on my truck. One of the things I came across while searching for install ideas is that a lot of sellers do not recommend putting the compressor in the engine bay. Apparently over time the heat may have adverse effects on the compressor functionality. That being said I have also read where a lot of people have put them in the engine bay and stated that they have not had any issues. YMMV. One thing I did see online that I liked and am copying is where a guy took an ammo can and mounted his compressor on the inside of the lid, cut breather holes in the floor (now ceiling) of the can and then mounted the whole thing upside down to the frame rails of his truck. The idea being that the ammo can provides protection against debris, salt and water. His thought was that if he ever needed to access the compressor he could open the lid and the compressor would swing down from the underside. In any case that's where I am at the moment, trying to shoe horn things into a 50 cal. ammo can. Whenever it stops raining I'll climb up under the truck and figure out a decent spot to mount the thing. One idea I had was to purchase a waterproof computer fan, mount it over the ventilation hole and wire it up so that it comes on when the compressor comes on. (Probably way over kill, and I likely won't do it.....but it seemed like a need thought at the time)

I mounted a set of cubes in the footwells on the rear bumper. Ended up using one of the torx bolts that hold the plastic footwell to the bumper. I did have to use loctite when I put the torx bolts back in as they tended to back out with the weight of the lights. Looks pretty good and I still have retained the use of the steps. I used a knock out bit and drilled a hole in each footwell to pass the wiring to the underside of the bumper. With a rubber grommet and the placement you really can't see the hole unless you look for it. I've had them on for about six months and the only issue I have had is remembering to spin the cubes around into the footwell when I go through the car wash. To

Can't say as compared to other HID brands, but I did install a set of Morimoto Elite 4300K on my 2014 Sierra over the weekend and have been very happy with the improvement over stock. Has anyone who has done the Morimoto drop-in upgrade had to do some serious readjustment of their lights? After installing I re-aimed my headlights with a 2.5" drop @ approximately 25'. Even with that adjustment it seems like I am spotlighting the trees when I hit high beam and the cutoff is above the road. Truck is a Z71 with stock suspension and 32" tires.

Hey man congrats on getting back in a truck? Is it the same one that is in your profile pic? I'm in Rome daily, I'm guessing we have probably passed each other on the road. Chad, any suggestions or guidance on pulling the remote button trim plate? That's where I will be placing my switches as well. I'm bringing power in from an aux power block I put in the engine bay. Power and control wires are routed through the under structure of the left front quarter panel. If you look at the driver's door frame in between the hinges there is a grommet that wire can be routed through and then into the cab. I'm planning on using some woven wire loom to camouflage the wires. Seems like it is easier and less painful than going through the firewall...

If you are just referring to swapping the filter element in the stock housing I am using Wixx filters. I have'nt and wouldn't expect any changes in mpg or performance. That being said Wixx has a very good reputation as a aftermarket filter replacement. Another to look at might be Mann Hummel slot bough I do not know if they make replacement elements for our trucks.

I ended up installing the Load Lifter 500's. They are the ones that have the internal jounce bumpers so that if you lose pressure you still have some "protection" so to speak So far I love them. I run the recommended minimum 10psi when I am not towing/hauling and I've only noticed a very minor increase in stiffness. On the other hand I've towed 8K with my truck both before and after the air bags and they are one heck of a nice upgrade. The help make for a much more stable towing platform. One of the reason's I got them was that at some point I am likely going to do a level and didn't want to be nose up while towing.

Thanks! Honestly, I'm not 100% certain. I knew when I started out I wanted it to be relatively modular and give me some room to grow so I added more capacity than I had/have the need for. At some point I'm going to add a compressor to adjust the air bags I installed, I will be adding additional reverse lights and possibly another set of front fogs and I've had some ideas kicking around for powered goodies on my trailer as well. I just didn't want to have a bunch of wires and relays strung out everywhere and this keeps it a bit neater. Dunno where it will lead but I'll likely be starting with set of reverse lights.

Finally got around to installing an aux. power block I had originally built for the jeep commander I used to have: - 4 switched + fused lines - 2 fused lines When it is all said and done the whole thing will run through a keyed relay. I still need to finish up a couple odds and ends such as connecting up the primary power and ground, running a fuse tap to the main relay and shrink wrapping a couple things. Two of the three grey deutsch connectors (4 pin, 2 pin) are outputs providing connections to whatever I want to power. The third (4 pin) connector will lead to in cab switches. Hopefully this will allow for easy removal when/if the need comes up. The mounting plate was cut to fit and velcroed in place so that it will hopefully be easy to move for air filter changes.

Lol! That's kinda what I figured. Thanks for the concise response

Quick, dumb newbie related question. Most of the catch can I am seeing are sealed systems that require unscrewing and draining on a regularly basis. Are they designed as a closed system on purpose to prevent vacuum leak issues, or is it possible to have an open system? As an extreme example, would it be possible to have a catch can system with a bottom drain that just remained open all of the time. And if so would it require one way valves on the intake and outlet lines? (I'm in no way advocating polluting by letting oil drip onto the road, I'm just trying to be simplistic for the sake of my question and understanding.