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tig488

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Everything posted by tig488

  1. 2014 Sierra AT. 146k miles. Had engine rebuilt 14 mos ago from lifter failure. Has been even fine since then. About 6 mos ago it started sporadically not starting. I’d say once every few weeks I get in and turn it over and it acts like the battery is dead. I get a click but no start. I try again immediately and it starts. Once it cranks I get the “theft deterrent system” dash light on the dash and I have to clear it, and the alarm cel goes away after a few cranks. a few weeks goes by and it does it again. Battery has been tested and is good. it has also done it when I try to do remote start. leaning towards replacing the starter. any thoughts?
  2. Yes. The mechanic put the new solenoid in but didn’t plug it up. Had to pull the front plate off again and plug it up. After that it was fine.
  3. sorry but the oil pump solenoid is not a simple job. the part is cheap, only $15 at rockauto.com but requires a lot of work. its around a 4-5 hour job. all fluids drained, front engine cover off. its not an hour job. I was having the code but also had a lifter explode. I had the dod delete kit installed and a new oil pump and solenoid installed at the same time.
  4. I just had my engine rebuilt due to a NON-DOD lifter detonating. all the DOD lifters looked fine after 125000 miles. did a delete setup.
  5. Stock suspension $25
  6. stock 20 snowflake rims mounted on Nitto Ridge Grapplers, 295/60s. $1300, buyer pays shipping, will meet if local. stock air box assembly $30 stock Bose speakers(6) $50 summit white front bumper cover $free located in Birmingham Alabama.
  7. and you didnt put any kind of inline filter or catch can before the brake booster?
  8. that was my first thought but I don't want to risk oil getting in the brake booster.
  9. that's risky, if you mess up that manifold that's an expensive replacement, plus id be afraid of small pieces of plastic getting trapped then sucked into the engine.
  10. pm inbound.
  11. recently had motor rebuilt due to lifter failure, gonna do a vacuum pump delete since DOD is gone. was gonna run the brake booster to the intake manifold port that usually goes to the PCV for vacuum but not sure where to get vacuum for PCV. I was considering just putting it to a catch can without vacuum, or another option is a TB spacer with a side port to supply vacuum for the brake booster and leave the PCV where it is. any thoughts?
  12. I would suggest replacing a few more parts while you're at it. the intake manifold needs 8 new gaskets, id also replace the timing chain and tensioner, new water pump gaskets, new cam bolt, front main seal, fuel pump gasket, harmonic balancer bolt, and both fuel lines under the manifold.
  13. update, got the truck back runs great. quiet again. one issue, my oil pressure is on the high side so he ran a diagnostic and its showing a po6DA. I was getting a po6DD before that's why I replaced the oil pump and solenoid. this code means the solenoid is stuck open causing pressure to be high. by my gauge it shows around 50-60 but his reader shows it spikes up to 70-80 under heavy throttle. we think it might be a wire issue because the code shows up on his scanner with the key on without it running, but my truck doesn't show a CEL.
  14. bringing this back from the dead. just completed a DOD delete AND oil pump replacement. now getting a po6DA. was getting a po6DD before this. that's why I went ahead and did the oil pump replacement. I don't have a check engine light but my mechanic is getting it on his diagnostics. runs fine, oil pressure is 20-40 at idle depending on temp, and anywhere from 50-70 during driving and acceleration. he can see the solenoid is working, he can turn it on and off with his device but sometimes it malfunctions. thought it might be a wiring issue but just wondering if anybody has had this before.
  15. update. shop tore it down. intake lifter cylinder 8 (non DOD) exploded sending shrapnel into the engine. that was the tick that started a year ago and got worse all of a sudden when it broke apart. camshaft bearings all messed up. having new ones put in tomorrow. i had already purchased LS7 non DOD lifters, stock non DOD camshaft, and everything else needed to do DOD delete. had also purchased a new oil pump since we were tearing it down because i got a few P06DD codes, as well as replacing timing chain and tensioner, removing vacuum pump, and replacing the torque converter with a Florida TC. hopefully it'll run another 125K miles.
  16. mine ended up being a non DOD lifter that basically exploded (after driving it for a year while it was clicking) and sent metal thru the engine. now replacing cam bearing, camshaft (which i was doing anyway), going ahead and doing the oil pump, DOD delete with LS7 lifters, and new aftermarket torque converter while its accessible.
  17. I'm sure these cause a CEL?
  18. ill take the Airaid MIT if its in good shape and comes with everything. send me a PM with total with shipping to 35173.
  19. you can piece the kit together yourself. all of the big shops like texas speed, ams, BTR etc just charge you for the time to put it all together. you can go to rock auto and put it all together yourself like I did and save yourself a lot of money. the only thing you have to buy from a shop are the plugs that fill the oil holes under the VLOM. I doing all this currently for a collapsed lifter. I'm deleting my vacuum pump and having them install a new oil pump since I've gotten the Po6dd code a few times.
  20. what year and model does this fit?
  21. Hmm that’s strange. One of my lifters just failed. I’m going with a delete kit and having the oil pump replaced while they are there.
  22. why did you have the VLOM replaced if you just did the lifter? is that recommended?
  23. same thing is happening to me. remove the valve cover, its not hard. good luck, I'm feeling your pain.
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