wacko

95,715mi on a 2019 6.2 NHT SLT… only issue was replace Alternator (squeaky bearing) and front sway bar links (twice).

2019 SLT NHT 6.2l new 11/19 74,144mi no engine issues as of now replaced alternator (bearing squeaking) Sway bar links (twice) I guess because of NHT truck is pretty solid and every software build it gets better. 10-speed and NHT ratio make for a fun drive...

2019 Sierra CC SB NHT 6.2 62,000 Miles the Brembo Brake package will be on all my future trucks... Only negative I see with them is the loss of front pad life monitor... They are so much better than stock in emergency braking situations. I have always had issues with warping but these are staying true.

I have a 19 6.2L NHT with 53,000 miles alternator started squeaking, sounded like your typical idler pulley failure. Just a few notes for others: You will need a T-25 torx to remove passenger side cooling fan to remove the long bolt (passenger side bolt) also get belts from GM... (now there are 2) Both are “Stretch Belts” The A/C compressor belt came with the tool for install, the serpentine did not. Remove lower front plastic skid plate it makes it easier to turn the engine over with a breaker bar or long 1/2” drive... hope this helps.

Just an FYI... make sure all vents passenger and driver are open and the ones in the rear of the console. I noticed that when passengers close the other vents it severely increases the sound in the drivers vents. It the vents are aimed all the way up/down it restricts flow

I remember similar issue with mine when new. Opened all vents (to far up or down up front restricts flow and to far left or right in rear console vents restricts flow). No issue since adjusting. Current generation System appears to move more air and vent restriction can cause noise for sure.

I have a 2019 6.5’ bed, CC, 6.2, NHT (3.42 rear end). Drove Cincinnati to Charlotte and back: upper 70 mph range always run 93 octane from Walmart/ Sam’s truck is getting close to 20k miles truck seems to finally start getting good mileage after 10k on the odometer. autostarts kill the number as well.

That doesn’t look like a T1 slider though...

The one thing that surprises me most on the T1 interior is how flimsy the dash panel is where the seat heater/cooler buttons are. The K2 buttons mounted area was extremely rigid. The T1 interior panel moves when you push the seat heaters. Other than that the interior is top notch and very user friendly

I had the update done yesterday. After a day of driving and multiple auto-starts with app and fob: All is well (so far). I was in a loaner for a week and it’s nice to be back in my truck. This software build initially appears pretty stable.

Have a 2020 Sierra SLT 5.3 10-speed loaner and it is a very good combo. Haven’t had any shifting issues

Just got a call from dealer that my truck is FUBAR until the next software is released. They will not give me the truck back because my ABS is currently comprised. I am in a loaner for 2-more weeks. I would advise anyone with appointments to get anything software related done, to wait.

2019 Sierra 6.2 NHT had the recalls done and after first remote start using the app got the warning messages for trailer, esc, abs, speed limited to 62mph warnings. Tried the app later that day and sure enough all the warnings again. Also have a constant CEL.. Second time it took a couple restarts to get the traction control and brake lights to clear. Definitely corrupt or incorrect software issue

I switched at 140,000 to 5/30 and usage was reduced initially. I am also using 5/30 from the beginning on the new engine. These 2-stage oil pumps are all about efficiency and allow the use of the thinner oils. It’s all about efficiency... that’s why we have AFM/DFM, electric steering, the 2-stage oil pump also helps... I could care less what oil people are using. The 2-stage oil pumps are standard issue in how they convey oil and using a minimal viscosity change is not going to make a difference. It is going to help on the bearings throughout the engine... 200k on a stock engine is reasonable but my last engine the LLY Duramax went 390k and ran well when I sold it. If you’re not going to put high miles on the engine run the stock oil. I don’t tow and hardly ever haul heavy loads. My service records are impeccable. When a failure occurs it is typically good to change something in order stop future failures. I chose a viscosity change. of note: I have noticed that the new engine hits the second stage (increased oil pressure) quicker (lower rpms). This could be the cause of the failure and solved with the new engine.

As a guy that put 190,000 miles on a 2014 6.2 this is what I found. At around 140-150 I started seeing oil usage. I had been using 0/20 as required up until that point. I was able to get an additional 50,000 until the cam bearings had been worn bad enough that the shaft started squeaking and the damage had been done. I am running this one from the start on 5/30 and my dealership agrees. They have always done the oil changes and agree the oil is simply to thin. Everything on the new engine is perfect with 5/30 and oil pressures are just a tick higher. I have 11,000 miles on new engine and the idle is like glass. AFM even seems smoother after break-in.

115k (catch can added early) trouble free... 6.2L and just went on a 21hour trip.

Yes... since around 14k

I have a '14 CC LB 6.2L with 91,000 miles only issues so far: Seat movement fix solved by dealership Headlights solved with LED aftermarket Paint chipping on bumper (painted all terrain) solved with complete strip and repaint New Battery around September Items to note: Engine is still perfect and idles smoother now than when new (primarily run 93 from speedway) On the Vibration issue: Truck came stock with 18" wheels and crap Goodyear tires. I upgraded to stock 20" wheels that had been black powder coated. More importantly I went with Continental cross contact tires because a friend with a Ford had 20" wheels with Michelin M/S 2 tires that vibrated that he changed to the Continental tires with success in stopping vibration. Truck rides amazing. Only issue I have is the Tailgate easy lift and soft down. Simply wears out way to easy. The bushing on the right side keeps breaking and the torsion bar must be getting weak as well because the tailgate keeps opening way to fast. Other than that all is well and works perfect...

Both tabs on mine are broke... Any info on the TSB?

I was surprised at how much suction there is when the dip stick is opened. I used 3/8 Napa PCV tubing. Maybe since mine is further inboard and lower it is helping with the noise.

I do not have the suction sound and I am using Stainless Steel scouring pad material in the small chamber filter area. I would check for a vacuum leak at a connection. The quick disconnect fittings did go on further than I originally thought they needed to. I did catch it before I put the air box back on but I would check them first. Fyi mine is a 6.2L

Installed mine 3-1 and was somewhat startled by what I found in just a day of driving... Here is by bracket... If anybody has access to a water jet, laser or HD plasma I can send you the file. My last truck was an '05 Duramax I blocked the EGR at 40k miles and added a finger stick (eliminated codes) Sold that truck with 390k miles with the original injectors and still ran very strong and smooth. These mods are key to achieving higher mileages in my humble opinion. Thanks to all that provide the knowledge base here.