wacko

Contamination in fuel tank? i made it 190k miles with stock injectors...

Just put a new 6.2 in my 14 truck and the mileage was significantly lower for the first 6-8k miles.... hang in there it will improve after the break-in. Just did a Cincy-Charlotte trip and the average was 21.6

I switched at 140,000 to 5/30 and usage was reduced initially. I am also using 5/30 from the beginning on the new engine. These 2-stage oil pumps are all about efficiency and allow the use of the thinner oils. It’s all about efficiency... that’s why we have AFM/DFM, electric steering, the 2-stage oil pump also helps... I could care less what oil people are using. The 2-stage oil pumps are standard issue in how they convey oil and using a minimal viscosity change is not going to make a difference. It is going to help on the bearings throughout the engine... 200k on a stock engine is reasonable but my last engine the LLY Duramax went 390k and ran well when I sold it. If you’re not going to put high miles on the engine run the stock oil. I don’t tow and hardly ever haul heavy loads. My service records are impeccable. When a failure occurs it is typically good to change something in order stop future failures. I chose a viscosity change. of note: I have noticed that the new engine hits the second stage (increased oil pressure) quicker (lower rpms). This could be the cause of the failure and solved with the new engine.

As a guy that put 190,000 miles on a 2014 6.2 this is what I found. At around 140-150 I started seeing oil usage. I had been using 0/20 as required up until that point. I was able to get an additional 50,000 until the cam bearings had been worn bad enough that the shaft started squeaking and the damage had been done. I am running this one from the start on 5/30 and my dealership agrees. They have always done the oil changes and agree the oil is simply to thin. Everything on the new engine is perfect with 5/30 and oil pressures are just a tick higher. I have 11,000 miles on new engine and the idle is like glass. AFM even seems smoother after break-in.

My injector failure sounds similar. If I hit a slight incline and gently rolled throttle at 1800-2200 rpm it would throw the misfire code. Also poor idling. Awkward downshift as well

I was one of the ones that was upset with the new interior until I drove one. I currently have a 14 Sierra AT and the interior has held up well for 190k miles. The interior still looks nice and all controls work perfectly. Biggest complaints on 14-18 interiors has always been: headlight/ 4WD knob are awkwardly similar in location and position new design solved this no a/c vents in console for rear seats new design solved this trailer brake control location new design solved this offset steering wheel new design solved this The new interior is definitely an evolution type design. I went from a 05 to a 14 last time and it was definitely night and day... this time it will not be a huge change and I’m thankful. Every complaint I had with the K2 was covered and new tech was added. I love the the look of the new Tesla type screen in the Dodge but buttons and knobs are so much easier to navigate. Heck the first time I drove my friends Platinum F150 I couldn’t believe that it didn’t have a button for the heated steering wheel. It is in the climate control screen on the touch screen. The Chevy/GMC interior is well designed and very intuitive. You are able to operate and change settings without even looking. Touch screens look cool but living with a Tesla type screen can be a pain...

New truck best deal is 45k new for K2XX Old truck is mint and loaded new one brakes and tires... used value will increase when new engine is installed. I’ll hang on to it for 2-3 more years and buy the latest generation when the real discounts hit. Crew Cab Standard beds with 6.2L are few and far between...

$5,400 engine $1,600 labor private shop. I have done him some favors (I own a machine shop). He is giving me engine at cost. when we were diagnosing the lifter issue we noticed very little oil making its way to the top of the engine when valve covers were taken off. That and considering cost to repair lifters was half or more it was an easy decision. GM gives a 36month and 100,000 mile warranty so it just made sense.

Well it’s looking like the dreaded lifter issue and while it can be repaired I’m going to go with a GM remanufactued engine. Oil usage was slowly increasing and while the lifter issue is not a huge deal to repair I figured that with the oil usage issue it is a better route...

That is the plan tomorrow... kind of leading towards output side by the flywheel

2014 6.2L 4WD Sounds like a bad idler pulley but I removed all (3) belts and sound remains. Oil pressure is 35-40 at idle truck runs perfect and has no CEL heard the sound after after an auto start and trying to diagnose any guidance is appreciated.

When truck was new I did 5k mile intervals for the first 4 changes. I now use the DIC which I believe averages around 7,500 ~ 8,500. i love the catch can discussions they are amusing to me. I know what it catches and the best part is so does my dealership. They agreed with me that it is a good, cheap insurance policy. They had zero issues with me having for warranty denial. It’s not as effective or as necessary as an EGR delete on a duramax but it does its job...

Update: 183,000 miles on a ‘14 6.2 oil usage is around 3/4 to 1qt. Every oil change using the mileage the truck calls for. Changed oil viscosity to 5w-30 and I think it slightly helped with usage. I run a catch can so some is going bye bye that route. I had oil leaks that were actually the lines for the transmission cooler. Engine is as good as any high mileage I have ever owned. Have ran premium since day one and still do. Truck runs perfect and everything still works. only issues lately are the assist tailgate and a mild leak from RR seal found when doing brakes... also about vibration: i ran my original brakes to 125k and replaced with NAPAs best brakes (my shop has an account so...) the brakes barely made it 60k and vibrated violently. Replaced with GM oem brakes (the ones that came on truck with coating) and eliminated 80% of vibration. Tires replaced with Continental Cross-Contact and rides as smooth as ever. Just an FYI and the GM brakes last a long time

135,000 on a 14 6.2L only issue I have is a small oil leak at the oil pan... Ill have it addressed at next oil change and report back. Truck idles better now than the day I bought it. Have ran Speedway premium since day one. Replaced battery and thats it...

115k (catch can added early) trouble free... 6.2L and just went on a 21hour trip.