Jump to content

sefiroxx

Member
  • Content count

    199
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

24 Good

About sefiroxx

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Drives
    05 Sierra

Recent Profile Visitors

2,074 profile views
  1. Auxillary power junction box

    Power distribution block
  2. 3 ideas: 1) water temp sensor that informs the computer of the car is warm or not. It may have failed (or wiring) into a state of always warm 2) clean throttle body/butterfly. It could be gummed up and sticking nothing allowing the control to open the extra bit needed for warm up 3) throttle actuator (control motor and tps sensor combine).
  3. Try switching the fuel injector.
  4. There is a an extensive set of discussions on coolant in Cadillac forum , as it relates to the Northstar HG problem. Includes some input from original engineers as well. The summary of problems basically comes down to user error: - too many waited beyond the 5 year / 100k window. Coolant, under heat, slowly breaks down into an acid. To compensate, there is a buffer added to counteract and balance. Wait too long, and the buffer gets used up and the coolant starts eating the engine from inside out. - Dexcool does not like other coolants. Too many users did not do a good flush when trying to swap out ( to get around the issue above). In doing so, they introduced a sludge into the system. As for additional parts. On my 01 and 05, I've had 3 heater hoses go and 4-5 of the plastic connectors break - all at the wrong time on the road. Lesson learned, got Rid of the of the precrimped, quick connect and installed higher rated hoses with hose clamps. This allowed me to do a rise repair - stealing hose and clamps from the heeater circuit to create a bypass loop at the pump. The hose and clamp assembly also allows me to flush the rear heater circuit on the burb.
  5. 2006 Silveraod WT Power Outlets

    Anything is possible - with the right amount of money. Simple answer, find a switched circuit nearby and splice in. Now the tough problems: - wire sizes are matched to the expected load. Adding more to a an already size circuit could overload the circuit either blowing the curcuit or blowing the wire. - to alleviate the above problem, you could change the power source at the fuse box. That would keep the circuits separate and properly loaded, but might turn other things into switched rather than always on (ie, trickle feed to the radio to maintain clock and settings)
  6. Ditto star man on pulling the intake. Given the history of people and the bell housing bolt access, I went with intake pull from the very beginning - and saved me a lot of persuasion time.
  7. Tapping from one side, one cylinder location? Tapping: bad lifter, worn rod (valve lash) Blue smoke: valve seal
  8. Correct, left the drive shafts in Ancient history - I used some wobble extensions in order to hold the socket on.
  9. AFM is active fuel management. It allows the computer to turn of half the cylinders. Search for AFM problems and AFM delete. The system turns on a special solenoid that forces a a special lifter to collapse, thus leaving the valves closed. Special lifters have a history of problems. A proper afm delete entails going back to std lifters and cam along with reprogram. If lifters are fine, a device can be installed that would deactivate the afm - but at a risk that the special lifters might fail in the future.
  10. It was oil pump failure, had the kid check level when he first noticed something flickering. He then ignored the problem as it got formal. After pulling the motor, I was able to check the pump. Did find a number of metal shavings so I decided to replace rather rebuild.
  11. Yep, 300k on it. Son took it from Tx to Co for some skiing and didn't watch the oil pressure. It had been on at least 12 cross country trips with nary a problem and then son seizes it up with his first trip. Oh well. I had earlier planned on doing a full seal/gasket replacement on it - as well as clean up the valve train (lifter noise), but son decided for me. Rather than new burb (70k), opted to put in a reman. Been running great ever since.
  12. My 01 4x4 burb took about 12 hours with a new reman. Had to remove most of the cooling front end to clear the front height. Nothing unusual on exchange. Put everything back on, an initial fluid fill - started right up.
  13. No idea, but hah, my 01 was more grody
  14. Yep, did the same when replacing the engine on my 01 burb.
  15. Need help on a few issues.

    Not sure on the glass Brakes: when I buy used , I do full tuneup, fluid change and compete brake overhaul (safety). So the same. Fume: need to check fuel lines especially at fuel pump and evap canister. There is a solenoid for the evap system to allow fuel vapors to be captured and then released into the intake. Need to check the line is connected. Also, there is a vent to atmosphere function that ensures that high pressures are not not contained. That vent could be stuck open.
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.