sefiroxx

Be sure to check the transmission, maybe time for an overhaul.

Limp mode can be invoked due to: - ecu receiving way off sensor data - transmission reporting problems (Ie high heat) - transmission not receiving signal from ecu (wiring)

Use a scanner, check fuel trim to be sure they are cycling around 0 and not high positive. Use a mechanics stethoscope to check if each injector is clicking. If not, use a noid light to see if injector signal is getting to the injector.

Limp mode, usually, either: - sensor signal to the ecu is way off. Use a scanner to see if anything is off - transmission is reporting a problem, or is not getting any signal from the ecu. (Default setting is 3rd gear)

Yes, overfill creates high resistance to the crank on revolution and could severely damage engine. Are you sure it's oil , not coolant? Drain, stick a magnet retriever into the pan and see what you find. Check the old fluid as well for material and coolant. Try to manually turn the engine at the crank.

Rockauto direct for 310+. Also, be sure to do research and correct fuel trim as you don't want melt the new one

May have to do a per cylinder check - spark plug - light on the wire - light on injector harness - stethoscope on the injectors Run a scanner and check ft when driving, see if out of whack when stumbling Check all other sensors as well to ensure that computer is getting correct signals.

Agreed, check exhaust. Cats may have clogged up (running hot, too much fuel).

Those are relatively normal fuel trim. Does the engine rev normally while in neutral?

Ok, the fuel tank baffle that is supposed to hold fuel near the pump may be failing. A full tank will keep fuel nearby. So monitor as fuel level drops.

Probably solenoid failure. Either 1st gear (A) or pressure. If A, he's going into 2nd. If pressure, it's taking a while to build up pressure.

Ignition starter switch , mounted in the column. Key cylinder engages the switch and rotates it. Plastic gear and you might have worn or lost a tooth.

Rock in the condensor core, blown compressor seal, corrosion at the evaporator from condensation - all are more common. Will need to do a leak detection test.

You'll need a vacuum pump and a full set of guages. Some of the parts houses have them on a tool loaner. After repairs, - connect vacuum pump to the yellow house and hookup both high and low. - Close high valve on the guage manifold, open low side - run pump until pressure drops to -25 to 27. - close low side, disconnect pump - change oil in the pump (first round of vacuum pulls moisture, oil and particulates which limits the pump from achieving highest vacuum) - reconnect pump, start pump, wait 15-30 seconds and open low side slowly. - wait until pump achieves -29.5 to 30. - stop pump, close pump valve, close low side. - monitor vacuum for a few hours, overnight is best. - if vacuum holds, proceed otherwise repair - connect Freon tank to yellow hose, bleed air from yellow hose thru shrader on manifold until Freon flows - open low side to allow Freon to replace vacuum - initial load of Freon this way will usually achieve enough static internal pressure to satisfy the low pressure switch allowing the compressor to run - with compressor running, add Freon per specification - disconnect guages per instructions (usually, with compressor on, turn off Freon can but leave connected, close high side at the connection near engine, open high side at manifold so excess Freon can be pulled into system, closer low side at engine, disconnect low side, stop compressor, let sit for a couple of minutes, disconnect high side, disconnect Freon can)

Broken ujoint inside the cv boot?