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sefiroxx

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About sefiroxx

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  1. Follow my recommendation on the pigtail. As for $250 cat, you'll probably only get a few years out of it. If you want a long term solution, then get a CARB compliant version, it will have more precious metal in it.
  2. If you futzed with the wire and the code changed, then yes, replace the pigtail. Once pigtail is replaced, take a test drive and see if a code returns. Then swap o2 sensors. If the code stays, then cat is gone.
  3. Downstream Cat codes are set for signal low, signal high, low efficiency. Low signal is usually a broken harness wire that the ecu sees as 0v. If it's at .01-.2 then the wire is either corroded (high resistance), or the cat has lost its ability to cover CO (CO + O2 = CO2+) Efficiency failing code is set when the cat is unavailable to convert anything, and is passing the fluctuating o2 exhaust thru the cat. The downstream sensor starts looking like the upstream sensor When failed high, it will show either a) a short in the wire thus sending .5v back without any fluctuation or B) send a consistent result above .7 - an indication of low O2. O2 is produced on N conversion activities (and consumed on the CO conversion).
  4. Take it into a shop that has a tailpipe emmisions analyzer.
  5. Yep Sensor 1's are fine Sensor 2 (after cat) is high, should be in .5-.7 range. High indicates low oxygen. This can be due to o2 sensor clogged, or the cat is on its way out. Cat converts NO2 and NO to N and O2.
  6. Overruled - crank churn Undercooked - pulling in air (low pressureh Pickup leak - pulling in air (low pressureh
  7. High voltage code is usually a short in the wiring, but sometimes in the sensor.
  8. Inner tie rods are bad. They have a plastic bearing that allows for orbital rotation. The plastic has worn/broken away.
  9. Yes, two different actuators. One is mode, the other is mix. If both are not working, then either dash controller or common ground is bad. The actuator can be bench tested with a 12v battery.
  10. Purge line drums from driver head, thru throttle body to passenger head and then back to tank. Pull the hose and verify there is flow. If yes, then HG is the likely problem.
  11. Drop the pan, check the screen, also, the pickup tube on engines have an oring where the tube is bolted In place.
  12. Wiring heats up, expands, causing the cracked copper to separate. Try replacing the pigtail for the sensor.
  13. Yes, corrosion or short. You'll net a meter to back trace to see where the relay signal wire is getting it's 12v from and to check the relay main legs to see if it shorted close. Try shaking the harness under the relay/fuse box to see if that changes behavior. Then do the same with harness up to the steering column.
  14. What year, model - someone might check their FSM for you. Likely a 4 legged critter looking to sharpen its teeth
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