sefiroxx

Some common issues: - church balls hammering on the separator plate eventually get stuck in the plate - early valve desIgn resulted in valve wobble. Updated design includes larger valve cylinder and update valve desIgn Typical tran rebuild shop will often order an updated valve body setup rather than trying to rebuild the current , especially if the clutches disintegrated allowing for fine material to flow through the valves. Also, check internal wire harness.

I have a 2004 Sierra with Cooper htp tires. With no weight in the rear, light rain , I'll spin the tires at a stop. Did not do that that with Michelin ltz's. Heavy rain, and the tires are fine. I've never experienced a compete lockup of a wheel/wheels but have had the abs kick in at times. What tires are you running?

1-2 accumulator. Cracked piston or worn pin shaft or broken spring will delay shift. 3,4 gears missing is typically clutches worn. Did you find material in the pan? If not, your valve body+ check ball/separator plate may need rebuild+ rework

Be sure to tighten bolts in several passes so the crush gasket is crushed evenly

may have to pop the fuse holder and check wires/connections underneath

Exhaust will get a bit, But ultimately, you'll end up going down the path towards turbocharging. Posted heads, cams, upgraded postings and rods, new lower end casting etc. Look at the following on an attempt to blow one up and see the dyno results: http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/engine/1213tr-vortec-5-3l-big-bang/

Yes, for std 4l60 to 4l80

If you drop the pan, check the magnet. You'll want to add fluid to replace - but would only cover about 50% of fluid. A full change would require a pump change out. Plenty of writeups on how to disconnect tranny cooler pipe at the radiator. However, you might want to invest in a stop at the tranny shop. Have them check pressure through out the gears. Might be dropping pressure in 4th gear causing the clutches to not engage properly. Pressure loss could be due to failing colonies Solonoid, valve or servo. The shop could xhange the fluid and so a quick inspection of the valve body.

If it's the clutches, then some material would be in the pan. Have you checked Tran fluid? If the o2 sensor is bouncing from .5 to operating, then likely a wiring problem (loose and it connected b disconnects depending on which put hole is hit)

If no visible leaks, then .5 q/5000 miles would be normal , most of this would be via oil mist through pvc As trucks, with the tendency to jump a few curbs etc, the flexing eventually leads to seepage on and number of gaskets. I'm on my 5th and every one of them eventually seeped and steadily worse until resealed. Current Sierra at 190k is losing .75 /5000 plus the .5 misting.. I my case, 2 valve cover gaskets and a rear main oil seal are needed.

- Wiring harness that jumps from the pillar to the door probably contains loose/broken wires - lots of rain, coffee, etc ended up in the switches and corrupted the switch You'll have to: - pull the switches, disconnect the harness from each and jumper the harness to see if the windows etc work correctly. If yes, then new switches. - if not, then you will need too remove door panel and trace wires back to see where they are corrupted.

Clearly a problem with bank 1 s1. Could be a wiring problem (need a new pigtail) or a bad o2 sensor (buy Delco/bosch). Check fuel trim especially short term (STFT) which shows how pcm is responding to o2 feedback. If at .5 consistently, then com may be dropping back to open loop mode (cold start) which is often too rich.

Check fuel pressure per above. Could be fuel pump or fuel filter. If you have to replace the fuel pump, you will want to replace the fuel filter as well , so might as well replace filter first and see if any improvement. (Chevy at 345k and on 3rd fuel pump , getting about 150k per pump)

Mechanics stethoscope will help with finding the noise.

Monitor will driving