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sefiroxx

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About sefiroxx

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  • Drives
    05 Sierra

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  1. Sad Day yesterday

    I have 26 year old Celica that I have bought back from the insurers twice now. Idiots keep hitting the pop-up headlights. Car is worth 1000, insurer quote for headlamp is 900, price from the junkyard - 75. It's a hobby car now , and likewise , you'll need to consider those soft values if you want to keep the old thing around.
  2. Auxillary power junction box

    Jump point is for using cables when jumping a dead battery
  3. Spyder Fog Light Bulbs

    Single wire bulbs assume the housing is metal and completing the circuit. Would have to find the exposed metal of the 1 wire bulb to see where it connects to the housing (expecting another metal). Might be able to sneak a small twisted copper wire into this point when inserting the bulb. Other end of the wire would be connected to the housing installation assuming there is exposed metal there.
  4. Auxillary power junction box

    There are at least 3 main circuits with a main wire to the positive terminal of the battery 1) alternator to battery 2) battery to starter 3) battery to fuse box The jump point that you identified is separated from the battery to reduce the likelihood of a spark igniting fumes from a cracked battery. You could connect to it and mount the distribution block on the fender wall. Rather than have a hanging wire between engine and firewall that might get engaged, I would connect a single primary distribution wire directly to the battery and snake it around the fender wall. For side post, they make a longer post that would accept a large primary loop wire. Top mount, there are after market clamps with extra bolts for wires. (BMW and some other mfgs even have special devices that mount on top of the battery, connected to the positive that provide a distribution block function)
  5. Auxillary power junction box

    Power distribution block
  6. 3 ideas: 1) water temp sensor that informs the computer of the car is warm or not. It may have failed (or wiring) into a state of always warm 2) clean throttle body/butterfly. It could be gummed up and sticking nothing allowing the control to open the extra bit needed for warm up 3) throttle actuator (control motor and tps sensor combine).
  7. Try switching the fuel injector.
  8. There is a an extensive set of discussions on coolant in Cadillac forum , as it relates to the Northstar HG problem. Includes some input from original engineers as well. The summary of problems basically comes down to user error: - too many waited beyond the 5 year / 100k window. Coolant, under heat, slowly breaks down into an acid. To compensate, there is a buffer added to counteract and balance. Wait too long, and the buffer gets used up and the coolant starts eating the engine from inside out. - Dexcool does not like other coolants. Too many users did not do a good flush when trying to swap out ( to get around the issue above). In doing so, they introduced a sludge into the system. As for additional parts. On my 01 and 05, I've had 3 heater hoses go and 4-5 of the plastic connectors break - all at the wrong time on the road. Lesson learned, got Rid of the of the precrimped, quick connect and installed higher rated hoses with hose clamps. This allowed me to do a rise repair - stealing hose and clamps from the heeater circuit to create a bypass loop at the pump. The hose and clamp assembly also allows me to flush the rear heater circuit on the burb.
  9. 2006 Silveraod WT Power Outlets

    Anything is possible - with the right amount of money. Simple answer, find a switched circuit nearby and splice in. Now the tough problems: - wire sizes are matched to the expected load. Adding more to a an already size circuit could overload the circuit either blowing the curcuit or blowing the wire. - to alleviate the above problem, you could change the power source at the fuse box. That would keep the circuits separate and properly loaded, but might turn other things into switched rather than always on (ie, trickle feed to the radio to maintain clock and settings)
  10. Ditto star man on pulling the intake. Given the history of people and the bell housing bolt access, I went with intake pull from the very beginning - and saved me a lot of persuasion time.
  11. Tapping from one side, one cylinder location? Tapping: bad lifter, worn rod (valve lash) Blue smoke: valve seal
  12. Correct, left the drive shafts in Ancient history - I used some wobble extensions in order to hold the socket on.
  13. AFM is active fuel management. It allows the computer to turn of half the cylinders. Search for AFM problems and AFM delete. The system turns on a special solenoid that forces a a special lifter to collapse, thus leaving the valves closed. Special lifters have a history of problems. A proper afm delete entails going back to std lifters and cam along with reprogram. If lifters are fine, a device can be installed that would deactivate the afm - but at a risk that the special lifters might fail in the future.
  14. It was oil pump failure, had the kid check level when he first noticed something flickering. He then ignored the problem as it got formal. After pulling the motor, I was able to check the pump. Did find a number of metal shavings so I decided to replace rather rebuild.
  15. Yep, 300k on it. Son took it from Tx to Co for some skiing and didn't watch the oil pressure. It had been on at least 12 cross country trips with nary a problem and then son seizes it up with his first trip. Oh well. I had earlier planned on doing a full seal/gasket replacement on it - as well as clean up the valve train (lifter noise), but son decided for me. Rather than new burb (70k), opted to put in a reman. Been running great ever since.
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