sefiroxx

Since the body is the same, and engine different, go with the 5.3 option. Block sizes are different so the pipes mounted on or around are different.

I don't have the repair manual in front of me. . . . There is a check wire loop that goes thru various switches to verify that everything is good before activating the compressor. You can unplug the harness from these and insert a jumper wire to complete the circuit. On basic systems this includes the hi and lo pressure switches.

If it fits the same thing in reverse, then filter seal is bad. If 2-3 works, then solenoid A or it's wiring is gone.

We ran a 4x4 suburban cross country in the summer for a decade. - new fluids - early replacement of battery and pads as needed. - full grease - heavy wax job the front end We hit 350k with no problems

ECU uses tps, rpm, speed and gear to choose timing of gear shifts. Use a scanner to check readings and work back from there.

Cost hanger hook

Heater core plugged with stuff due to no passenger air filter

Use a 6 sided, impact society of high cost, as it will have a Tighter fit.

Follow my recommendation on the pigtail. As for $250 cat, you'll probably only get a few years out of it. If you want a long term solution, then get a CARB compliant version, it will have more precious metal in it.

If you futzed with the wire and the code changed, then yes, replace the pigtail. Once pigtail is replaced, take a test drive and see if a code returns. Then swap o2 sensors. If the code stays, then cat is gone.

Downstream Cat codes are set for signal low, signal high, low efficiency. Low signal is usually a broken harness wire that the ecu sees as 0v. If it's at .01-.2 then the wire is either corroded (high resistance), or the cat has lost its ability to cover CO (CO + O2 = CO2+) Efficiency failing code is set when the cat is unavailable to convert anything, and is passing the fluctuating o2 exhaust thru the cat. The downstream sensor starts looking like the upstream sensor When failed high, it will show either a) a short in the wire thus sending .5v back without any fluctuation or B) send a consistent result above .7 - an indication of low O2. O2 is produced on N conversion activities (and consumed on the CO conversion).

Take it into a shop that has a tailpipe emmisions analyzer.

Yep Sensor 1's are fine Sensor 2 (after cat) is high, should be in .5-.7 range. High indicates low oxygen. This can be due to o2 sensor clogged, or the cat is on its way out. Cat converts NO2 and NO to N and O2.

Overruled - crank churn Undercooked - pulling in air (low pressureh Pickup leak - pulling in air (low pressureh

High voltage code is usually a short in the wiring, but sometimes in the sensor.

Inner tie rods are bad. They have a plastic bearing that allows for orbital rotation. The plastic has worn/broken away.

Yes, two different actuators. One is mode, the other is mix. If both are not working, then either dash controller or common ground is bad. The actuator can be bench tested with a 12v battery.

Purge line drums from driver head, thru throttle body to passenger head and then back to tank. Pull the hose and verify there is flow. If yes, then HG is the likely problem.

May have to put in a tranny cooler with an electric fan.

Drop the pan, check the screen, also, the pickup tube on engines have an oring where the tube is bolted In place.

Wiring heats up, expands, causing the cracked copper to separate. Try replacing the pigtail for the sensor.

Yes, corrosion or short. You'll net a meter to back trace to see where the relay signal wire is getting it's 12v from and to check the relay main legs to see if it shorted close. Try shaking the harness under the relay/fuse box to see if that changes behavior. Then do the same with harness up to the steering column.

What year, model - someone might check their FSM for you. Likely a 4 legged critter looking to sharpen its teeth

Transmission

Yes, especially if there is water in the tire. The certain weight at a certain speed will cause a vibration that disappears at spec increases or decreases.