sefiroxx

Check alignment and wheel balance

I too had problems with an 04 starter. Had gone thru lots of diagnostics and parts. Turned out to be the starter. You can rule out the starter wire harness by jumping the starter at the starter. Piece of thick wire 3-4 inches long, exposed at both ends. From underneath or thru the passenger front wheel well, jump the large wire to the smaller solenoid wire. If it cranks, then you have problems with ignition switch, relays, security, NSS If not, then main wire, battery, or starter itself.

Pull the head, send out for rebuild, install new lifters and do an AFM delete.

Do not do a shop power flush. It can force small particles into tiny crevices that need to allow movement (valve/Valve body, solenoid, etch You can use the tranny pump to pump out old fluid as you are adding new. This will allow a flush using the std fluid paths and direction. Drop pan Change filter Reinstall pan and top off. Disconnect upper tranny pipe from radiator Install to the radiator a threaded fitting/barbed end Connect a chest vinyl hose to the the barbed end, over the top of the radiator and into a 5G bucket. Start engine, monitor hose via the hood gap, shift thru gears. Stop engine after 30-45 as secs. Refill with new fluid roughly matching fluid in bucket. Repeat until you see clear red fluid at the vinyl. Disconnect/reconnect all Top off tranny using std procedures. 04 GMC, changed at 20k and every 75k 01 Burb, 75k 92 Fleetwood, 25-30k (std factory recommendations, the ecu will even throw bad codes once the fluid gets to 25-30k)

These cables do stretch out. Also, there are different lengths depending on model. If replacing one, probably should replace all. I've added a socket to get an extra 1-2" cable stretch before ordering and replacing all the cables.

Solenoid on could be causing more problems (2nd band stuck on). Get it checked. Surprised that CEL for the solonoid was not thrown earlier. You mIght ha vs burned up some clutches and the material is caught up in the system.

Did you get a new driveshaft to lower it. It might be out of balance. Check your mounts.

FT are a report on what the ecu did. It's a after action report and is not used in calculating future FT. Future FT settings are based on: - open/closed - TPS - MAF - RPM - O2 -Alcohol %

5k for reman motor, 4k for remain tranny = 150k more miles. 45k for a new truck and 250k miles. .06/mile vs .18/mile .12/mile for the lifestyle change (improved interior) reduced possible problems, etc

Sounds like it is stuck in open loop (cold start warm up). It needs coolant temperature and o2 heated sensor and signal feedback to go into closed loop.

On my 04 Sierra - from battery to behind the bumper, under the lower radiator cross member - 2.5-3 ft. - back of the driver side head/block to the upper firewall cross member 1.5-2 ft I also remember, have to dig out the service manual, ground points on either side of the dash at the A pillar, and another on the ground at the driver B pillar. (Not sure of the rear locations)

Crutchfield will tell you which adaptersbradios to get to maintain swc

HmMmm Have you climbed underneath and checked the linkage? Where is the cable connects to the tranny lever is plastic and known to give out. If there is play in the Linkage, the lever might move.

Popped out? How did you get it back in gear? Manual or Auto?

3rd gear operates with the solenoids off (limp home mode) When shifting into 3rd, the solenoids turn off, valve return springs push valves into default locations including a fluid routing that pushes a 2-3 passive valve into a position that engages the 3-4 clutches. If you are not having problems in 4th, then your clutches might be ok. I'd bet on valve/body problems. Start with a full fluid change, and see if that flushes out something that be causing a sticky valve. Check your fluid/pan for clutch material. If the flush doesn't help, probably time to drop the valve body for a rebuild.

Someone cut the switch out. Std gm setup has the switch controlling brake lights (1 pair of wires , normally open, routed thru relay) and cruise control (other pair of wires). The cruise circuit might be normally open or closed depending I the engineers creativity that day of design.

Tada. . . It'll need a relearn. Let it idle for a minute. Shift through the gears. Turn on the ac. Turn off. Restart and take it for a drive.

Probably fuel pump/pressure. Before the 1st start, try turning key on for a few seconds, off, then start. If it improves, then fuel pump/filter.

When it started, did you keep holding the pedal down? BTW, the ISC only controls the air gap. If the fuel pressure problem is still there, then the isc test will create a more lean condition.

You can verify the isc problem on startup by giving a teeny bit of pressure on the pedal. That will manually open the throttle like the isc is supposed to do.

Check engine ground cables as well. Also, check the wires etc in the main fuse box. Try wiggling fuses Etc and shaking the wire harnesses underneath.

4WD? Have you jacked the truck up and watched and listened? Any codes?

Typo?

Pick n pull time

- CRC MAF cleaner - if you smell fuel at the vacuum connector, then the diaphragm in the regulator is leaking. Recommend a new one. Also, have your fuel pressure tested. You can rent a pressure tester at the local parts store. (On or 3rd fuel pump since purchasing our 01 new. - clean your throttle body and butterfly. - your ISC motor may be going. It controls the opening of the butterfly to allow for higher idle under cold start.