sefiroxx

Drive by wire, transfer your throttle to the replacement. Send the ecu out for programming for something like an 04 which was wire and pre AFM and VVT

Idle speed control. Mine is a drive by cable, so the isc is used to hold butterfly open on idle. Yours is drive by wire. The module that contains. On the throttle body is the tps/tac motor. The tac controls the opening of the butterfly based on input from the pedal and the e cu (when cold). Try cleaning the throttle body/butterfly. Google on how to test gm electronic throttle body.

Had the same problem with 01 5.3 burb. Required a little gas until warm up. Had cleaned everything, temp sensor, maf etc. Eventually replaced the isc to fix the problem.

Also check your main power wires for good connections

Auto ac? Air temp sensor may be failing

Alternator Also check the tensioner. If not tight, the belt could be slipping.

I've had the same problem on 04 Sierra in Texas for the past 10 years. Have replaced clutch, water pump and radiator. Plan on converting to an electric fan next. I assume an engineering problem of some sort.

Lots of write ups out there. In general, on earlier cars (20 years +) the valve was opened or closed when engine was warm and in gear and moving. Later engines, once the engine warms up, the cake is pulse width opened. Small amounts in idle, larger amounts as rpm increases. The 440 test occurs at one of two points. On some earlier cars, with a pressure sensor and the system purge valve known to be off. In a pulse width system, the system will measure vacuum pressure, shut the valve off and measure pressure again. If the vavuum pressure doesn't change enough, it will set a code.

Purge opens at certain rpm. Prior to rpm threshold, the system is sealed and there is some pressure which the computer checks with a pressure sensor. If no pressure, the code is set. If leaking on fill, then there is a hole somewhere (100million + cars don't leak on fill)

Evap is closed when verticals is off. Vapors from fuel tank are passed to the canister.. If pressure builds, the system has an over pressure release valve at the canister. When the vehicle is running, a valve opens at a certain rpm to allow the stored vapors to be introduced into the intake.

Check hoses and canister. The system should be sealed. A break will on the "seal" will set the code. In your case, hose from tank to canister is compromised.

Are the sensor 1 voltages cycling around .5V? If not, then you are running rich. Be sure to hold the rpm for 10 seconds to allow the ecu to adapt fuel trim. The sensor 2 (after cat) voltages suggest the cats are using up the oxygen or had little oxygen to begin with.

Sounds like a short between the wiper fuse to relay circuit and the lights after relay circuit. Probably underneath the fuse box.

Hmmm, Need fsm to verify if starter is locked out via passlock. Typically, if cranking, usually a sign that security is not locking out. Need to do std check on spark, fuel. BTW, very very very few of us have codes memorized so add short description when posting

Double check the injector. Noid light to confirm power. Then a mechanics stethoscope to confirm it is opening (ticking)

Did you check the wire with a timing light?

Dug thru the FSM for 01. Found the luxury power window documentation, but nothing on the specifics of the wiring of the pool light. Image is for the plug in the door on driver side. Two white wires. One controls the mirror mirror and the other for the light. As to where it goes once in the wire harness and back to control , unknown. I would consider connecting to the circuit that controls interior lighting (includes timing for turn on and off based on key actions). If using normal light - might have to add relay/fuse to ensure the control signal is not overloaded. May be able to wire directly of using led. As to your bump's. The request is very unique and likely never done before so no responses.

Throwing parts at the problem is an expensive outing. 1st: problem definition: - car won't start - battery drain - other passenger electrical 2nd: Diagnostics: a) starting - assuming the engine does not crank at all: - controls for the starter include ignition switch, security, neutral safety switch (has to be in park or neutral), fuse, relay, starter solenoid, starter. - You can bypass nearly all of the above at the starter. It is directly connected to the battery and a second wire through all of the above items. Use a jumper wire and connect the two posts together. It attempts to crank, then you have a problem with the other controls. If it does not crank, then starter is bad - to diagnose the other components, you will need a meter to backtrace the control wire to see where the signal is present or not - simple check for the relay is switch out with another one in the electronic/fuse box B) battery drain - it drains while not connected? Something changed from the shop storage to installing. If the battery, new is installed with no cable hookup, would it drain? It shouldn't. How are you testing? - normally to test, a test light or amp meter is hooked up between the battery and the battery cable. It will show drain. Then start pulling fuses until the drain stops. The last fuse pulled will indicate which circuit to research - if you suspect the alternator, these can be tested at the local parts shop. I doubt it's the alternator. C) other electrical - typically the hardest to find. - in your case, a whole section of the passenger compartment is going out , this would point to a common item. Ignition switch, body control module, fuse, or ground. - ground connections are typically located behind the dash on the outer edges, on the driver side floor usually 6 inches up the b pillar (that which the back seat driver side door is mounted to) and somewhere in the rear passenger area - work on a and b and you might find the the answer to c as well Finally I had a similar problem. My Sierra symptoms included a random inability to start. Did the standard check on control points including ignition switch, battery etc. Eventually found: - stater had a dead spot on it. But turning the key a half dozen times would jar it enough to turn the dead spot away - ignition key cylinder is so worn that it can be turned just enough (without a key) to turn engage the "run" state which is a high battery drain. I can see this state on the dash - battery lit and the PRNDL symbol is dimmly lit

There is a transfer case motor that receives the signal and provides feedback as to if front is engaged. Fuse, wiring harness or electric motor may be out. Check wiring harness to see if broken or not.

Snake camera Leak is more likely a valve cover gasket. Leaks seeps down hill (towards firewall), down the engine head and block and then behind the starter.

Sure, why not. (Not sure why GM did this in the later trucks. My 01 and 04 have DRL, but the dash switches turn everything off)

Driving on gravel. . . Kicking rocks up to knick whatever protection that might have been there

Try switching the fuel injector.

Correct, left the drive shafts in Ancient history - I used some wobble extensions in order to hold the socket on.

Yep, did the same when replacing the engine on my 01 burb.