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NorthskyblueT1

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    2020 Silverado LT 4x4 CCSB 5.3

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  1. All the full-size brands have something I like for different reasons right now.
  2. 2020 Crew built in Silao, 9/20.... 2,135 miles as of today. I have drips on both the left and right inside of the window. There's a rail at the top that ends about 2" before each side and it appears it's coming down from there. **** Not sure if I should try to warranty or seal it myself.
  3. Even though I enter my password, it comes back after some time. 60 days? 30 days? It's every so often, that's all I know. C'mon, GM, this is a pain in the ***
  4. Unfortunately, there are a lot of people who do not appreciate the freedom and responsibility of driving, and would prefer someone else, or a machine, do it for them. Or they think their time is worth more than paying attention on a monotonous drive. I want absolutely nothing to do with it. Machines sometimes do things better than humans can, and I don't care. I prefer to drive my own vehicle.
  5. I am of the understanding that driving in any "L" gear/ driving in Manual Mode does NOT disable DFM. This is a change from the AFM trucks, where selecting an L gear in manual mode would disable AFM. Can anyone confirm this?
  6. The only thing I'd add is, it's still important to check the dipstick. For my bigger truck, I am used to buying 1 gallon jugs. Imagine my surprise when I accidentally grabbed the 1.25 gallon variety (5 quarts instead of 4, the jugs really aren't much bigger visually). Poured them in, thinking they were gallon jugs and went about my routine---until I checked the dipstick. OOPS! OH, and I think all us DIYers have a story about spilling used oil
  7. If I wanted a ceramic spray wax, something to lay down and wipe off after a thorough wash and clay, what should I go with?
  8. ^^^This. Don't add another full quart. You might have capacity for ~ a third of a quart, maybe, if you want to top it off. But within the hash marks you are fulfilling the obligations of the warranty and the owner's manual with regards to oil fill level. Do not overfill--the manual is explicit about that.
  9. Forest service/logging roads are about the extent of what I'll do with a Z71, and it is plenty capable for that. Beyond that and you're pushing a highway rig to do something it wasn't really designed to do. There are way better "out of the box" rigs that expand your off-roading capability. It will really depend on your intended use. Around here, "off road" anywhere off of a forest or logging road is....trails. Steep, rocky, with lots of soil and mud, and very tight between trees. A full-size is too big in almost every dimension, stock highway tires are woefully inadequate, and the gearing will burn up a trans real easy. A G80 rear isn't optimal for traction at crawl speeds. Most trails are best suited for a short-wheelbase vehicle with high ground clearance, and at least a selectable locking rear end. But yeah, if you live in farm/ranch country where gravel roads are a way of life and accessing land comes with a little mud and uneven ground, you'll be fine. But a trail rig, these are not.
  10. So, how about us 2019 and 2020 guys with the L84? Wait until the engine grenades? What's the estimated failure rate on the L84's anyhow?
  11. Or consider swapping to a larger tank, if you can. With a 1,000 gallon tank we only have to fill up once per year, we're in a mild northwest climate. At another property we only had a 500 gallon tank and propane service was kinda iffy sometimes. Having a 1k tank really reduces "tank anxiety"? Or, switch companies. Your driver is just a guy with a CDL and some company training. My guess is if someone paid him a buck more an hour he might have switched jobs.
  12. It should sound like this. Not my video but, this is what a stock 1500 sounds like If it's high pitched, then the low note might have failed and will need to replaced. Else, aftermarket. Fiamm is a maker of some very good horns.
  13. None of this is a trick or a secret. Buy low, sell high. Do it where rebates and incentives cover a good chunk of the initial depreciation to create a margin for yourself and flatten that curve. Trade something that dealers want. The way I do it, it ends up being significantly cheaper than leasing, and some new cars have cost me virtually nothing to own for a few years. My argument is that it can be done relatively cheaply--not that there isn't a value proposition in keeping a vehicle for a long time. Some people on here understand it. And if not, that's OK too. Keep doing what you're doing.
  14. Interesting. I didn't catch that "feature" in the owners manual, but there it is, "Extended Parking" with the timeouts listed. Good to know. I'm fairly certain I hate RKE/rfid fob stuff now. Gimme a dang key, and if I start the vehicle, I intend to leave it running until I shut it off! That's been the worst feature of this new truck.
  15. Grumpy doesn't buy/sell new vehicles, so he doesn't understand. Rambling about God and feet. Does anyone remember Crash Test Dummies? Now that song is stuck in my head. I bought the CD brand new when it came out in 1993. "Gaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhd shuffled his feet / And glanced a-round, at them....../ The peeeeeeeeeeopole cleared their throats / and stared right back, at him.... Again, I'm not arguing that keeping a vehicle for a long time isn't a way to save some money. What I said before, and someone else said too, you can turn over certain new vehicles for very little cost. Even if you do the work yourself on an older vehicle, I don't think these two ideas are world apart in terms of expenses even if done with just a little intelligence.
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