I have the Fox 2.0 shocks in the front. They raised the front 1.5 inches. I had them put on at 14,000 miles and the steering didn’t go bad until 65,000 miles. So I highly doubt the shocks did anything. I had purchased an aftermarket extended warranty when I bought my truck and they have covered everything, no questions asked. I paid $700 for the warranty, to date they’ve paid out $5,000 in repairs. I’m not sure how GM warranties the steering assemblies but I do know their is a TSB floating around telling dealers that the level kits with the shim insert cause problems.
ridethedesert started following 2014 Silverado 1500 pop/ clunk in full lock after level, Vacuum Pump Replacement/Diagnosis, Help with wiring in DSP and and 2 others
Just had to take my truck in for this same problem. I filed a complaint with the NHTSA. How do they make the steering electric and then decide to put the vacuum pump on a belt? Why don't these trucks come with the electric pump like on the Camaro's and Corvette's? I'm at 81,000 miles. My wife keeps asking why my truck is in the shop every month and I told her apparently GM put corporate profit in front of customer safety on every single major component on this truck. I've replaced... Steering Wheel Steering Column Complete electric steering rack AC Condensor Oil Pan twice, first time they used gasket gel and it didn't seal, so had to replace two piece oil pan Rear end drive shaft bearing twice Complete rear end blow up and replacement of all gears rear end leaking from diff cover driver seat I had to put the hose clamps on Now the vacuum pump, lines and master all have to be replaced. For 80,000 miles this is a piece of you know what. My 2004 GMC sierra had no issues by this many miles. The trans in the 04 did need to be rebuilt at 85,000 miles but I can't imagine this trans is going to last any longer.
My rack was replaced and instantly the clicking is gone. It's been a couple weeks now and all is good. The steering feels much tighter than before, almost harder to turn the wheel. The part number for my rack was different than what previous posters have posted. I also noticed there is a software sticker on the heat sink it says 11.03.00 Software.
I think that's a different sound than what mine is making. Mine makes it standing still and turning the wheel. There is another thread on here where the wheel was making a clicking sound with each revolution. I'll have to find it for you. Check my youtube video above and let me know if yours is making the same noise.
So I guess that new part number rack didn't hold up. Bummer, I was counting on your story to be my solution. I think the electric steering just isn't up to the task. It'd be great if an aftermarket company would make a heavy duty version so we could ditch the stock one.
Mine is in the dealer now for the clicking, getting the steering gear/rack replaced. They put in a new rack and the computer wouldn't program it. I'm not sure if it was my truck computer or their tech tool that wasn't working. Maybe it was a new defective rack. They had another rack in stock and were going to install that one and try to program it. I haven't heard back yet. Makes me wonder if there is more going on with my clicking than just the rack if the computer won't program. Maybe related to the recall for loss of power steering. If my ground is bad maybe the computer can't communicate? I'll let you know if clicking is gone when I get my truck back. Welcome to 2017 where power steering won't work without a computer. For 2019 the steering won't work unless you have a 4g LTE connection because the steering will be connected to a server. Jk. In all honesty I'd like my hydraulic steering back. 200,000 miles on my 2004 Sierra and zero issues with steering. I understand the electric steering saves mpg but with how many are breaking, it makes you wonder how much oil does that consume to keep replacing them? In making the parts and delivering them.
Interesting article where GM says the electric steering isn't heavy duty enough for a 2500. In my opinion then it's not good enough for a 1500. PUTC: Why not put heavier-duty electronic power steering in the HDs like GM has in the half-ton and midsize pickups? Symons: The EPS rack-and-pinion components aren't robust enough to handle the weights and steering loads heavy-duty pickups place on them. That's why we've stayed with hydraulic recirculating ball steering systems in the HD and added Digital Steering Assist. It's the best of both worlds. http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2015/10/what-you-need-to-know-about-gms-new-hd-steering-assist.html
ridethedesert replied to ridethedesert's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingApparently it happens more often with the turn signals on and AC on high. I spoke with GM customer service today. It appears the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration forced this recall on GM. This explains why it's been announced but they don't have an actual fix yet. I feel like I've felt my truck hint that it wants to do what I've seen in the youtube videos but it actually hasn't done it yet. Just a slight force on the steering wheel that makes my stomach drop bracing for it. I think GM should have recalled this way before they were forced to do it and I also feel like their "repair" is just going to be a band aid. Similar to how bad my seat belt repair was, they butchered my seat frame. From what I've seen online, dealerships and customers have fixed the problem by making a better ground connection at the dash corners. My guess is GM isn't going to fix the grounds but rather tell the computer to ignore the high resistance problem coming from the bad ground. Typical. I'm going to go ahead and make a better ground connection on my own. Here's an amateur video of a guy showing how to fix it.
ridethedesert replied to kortuem150001's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingDid you guys ever figure out the noise or solution?
PIT5533 covers a creak, click pop crack noise from the front suspension or frame area while making turns on any of the 2015 through 2017 K2 trucks or SUVs. The noise may be caused by the front frame crossmember. Loosen then retorque the four attaching bolts. On the first pass, tighten to 52 lb ft. On the second pass, tighten an additional 110 degrees. Road test again to determine if the concern has been eliminated. https://mp134437.cdn.mediaplatform.com/134437/wc/mp/4000/10391/42497/70171/Presentation/e6/_e6ac6c39-fd10-1f26-173d-3a3fbf768536_/10217.01V_January_2017_EI.pdf I'm not sure why 2015 and up. Mines a 14 but I'm goingto check it anyway.
Is there a sheet with instructions for this? I found PIT 5533, is that the same thing? A google search of GM 4645801 brings up nothing but a single link to PIT 5533 which won't allow you to see it unless you are a subscriber.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 102 Members, 0 Anonymous, 637 Guests (See full list)
- Cool J
- Yodi Murica
- Debra Grimmett
- mn camper guy
- Eric D Plante
- Ralph Brookshire
- Big Adam
- Windmill Greaser
- JD 5425
- Penguin VII