ridethedesert

I have the Fox 2.0 shocks in the front. They raised the front 1.5 inches. I had them put on at 14,000 miles and the steering didn’t go bad until 65,000 miles. So I highly doubt the shocks did anything. I had purchased an aftermarket extended warranty when I bought my truck and they have covered everything, no questions asked. I paid $700 for the warranty, to date they’ve paid out $5,000 in repairs. I’m not sure how GM warranties the steering assemblies but I do know their is a TSB floating around telling dealers that the level kits with the shim insert cause problems.

They replaced the whole electric steering assembly. No issues since.

PIT5533 covers a creak, click pop crack noise from the front suspension or frame area while making turns on any of the 2015 through 2017 K2 trucks or SUVs. The noise may be caused by the front frame crossmember. Loosen then retorque the four attaching bolts. On the first pass, tighten to 52 lb ft. On the second pass, tighten an additional 110 degrees. Road test again to determine if the concern has been eliminated. https://mp134437.cdn.mediaplatform.com/134437/wc/mp/4000/10391/42497/70171/Presentation/e6/_e6ac6c39-fd10-1f26-173d-3a3fbf768536_/10217.01V_January_2017_EI.pdf I'm not sure why 2015 and up. Mines a 14 but I'm goingto check it anyway.

Is there a sheet with instructions for this? I found PIT 5533, is that the same thing? A google search of GM 4645801 brings up nothing but a single link to PIT 5533 which won't allow you to see it unless you are a subscriber.

It's funny how most of these seats developed an issue almost immediately. I've had mine for almost 3 years and 52,000 miles and it just now started to develop movement. I read all 62 pages of this post because it was driving me nuts. I had the seat all the way bottomed out and when I raised it just slightly, the movement went away like others said. I could physically move the lower seat and see the play in those white plastic clips. I'm not sure I like the seat any higher than I had it so I ordered the GM part to fix it. If that doesn't do it, hose clamps will be next.

Does it sound anything like the video I posted?

It didn't upload the video for some reason

Does it sound like this?

So I have been messing around with the front end of the truck checking every bolt trying to figure out what it was. I think I got it. On top of the shock body there's a nut for the shaft. Both of mine were finger loose. I tightened them both down and we will see if that fixes the problem. I have the Fox 2.0 shocks on it so maybe they didn't come torqued properly from Fox or they have loosened over time from driving through the desert. I also torqued the u-bolt nuts on the rear axle as other members mentioned. All of those were fairly loose, meaning I could easily move them with my ratchet without much resistance. I tightened them down till they felt good to me. Not sure the torque specs on those but I shouldn't have been able to move them so freely. I'll report back in a couple days if I don't feel the pop. It was a daily occurrence so I should know right away.

I'll have to check out the leaf springs. I saw a post on here that showed guys installing some leaf spring clamps to hold them down. I'll also check if the axle has any shiny metal. Interestingly my pinion seal blew a couple thousand miles ago. Dealer replaced the seal. Then 7,000 miles later the rear end started to hum and the dealer had to again replace the pinion seal but then also the pinion bearings, pinion gear/drive gear and reinstall. I'm not sure if they set the backlash correctly the first time or if something else caused it to fail again. Maybe the leaf springs are causing issues with the pinion as you have mentioned. I guess my next step is to stop the leaf springs from making the noise and then see if the steering wheel stops popping.

Ya I read up on the leaf springs in some other posts on here. I know when the leaf springs make the popping noise. I can hear that when pulling into a steep driveway and it will pop. Also can hear it when jacking up the rear of the truck to rotate the tires. This pop is distinctly in the steering column/steering wheel and can make it parked in my driveway, when making flat turns, etc. Maybe I should eliminate the leaf spring pop first just to be sure.

I have this same issue as well. I can easily feel it in the steering wheel. I thought maybe it was in the steering column itself. I feel it usually while turning either left or right onto a different street. Sometimes I can get it to do it while applying the brakes and then letting go. I thought maybe ball joints as well but they seem solid. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra SLE. Let me know what you find out. Mine goes into an independent shop next week after the dealer told me they couldn't duplicate it and that there is nothing wrong with the steering wheel or column. If you grab my steering wheel on the left and right side and then move your arms back and forth, you can make the wheel click loudly like metal to metal sound. Almost as if the bearing inside is gone or the main nut isn't torqued properly. Again my dealer told me that looseness is normal.

I've had the same kit for 2 years, no issues. I never bother turning them off, just let them run. 39,000 miles and about 1400 hours on the engine, so they've been on that long. Did you jump start your truck by chance? Do anything with the electrical?

Is my truck the only one that doesn't have a second panel underneath the driver kick panel? I wondered why my carpet always was pulling towards the center of the truck and exposing the paint underneath. I bet mine didn't get it from the factory, someone forgot it. Also I have an SLE, not sure if it's something they put on the SLT's that may have extra wires? Just curious if anyone else didn't have it as well.

So I just got the truck back and the clicking is gone and my steering is good as new. In my particular situation, the problem was PIT5312B which you can't find anything for on the internet right now. However I found something by searching for the past couple days, I'll share the link below. Basically the lower column bearing housing assembly comes out of position leaving a 3mm gap which causes clicking in the steering wheel and was making everything feel loose, especially on the left side for me. Interesting to note is that it says vehicles with a tilt and telescoping steering column. Well I only have tilt, so obviously this means not just telescoping steering wheels but tilt as well. The way I initially read it was only tilt and telescoping vehicles would have this issue, not just tilt. However, we now know it's tilt by itself as well. If that makes sense. Anyways, here's the link with pictures... I'm pretty sure this is what was done to mine. I haven't heard anyone else say they had this issue. Everyone keeps saying racks replaced, steering gear/box replaced etc etc. Perhaps others could chime in and let me know if anyone else had this done or if I'm the first. http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?p=5126 On a side note, they did recall#15822B and replaced my seat belt tensioner cable and they just cut the stock rubber out of the seat belt opening; with an exacto knife is what it looks like. I'll have to clean it up as he or she didn't make it as clean as I would like. You would think with a $50,000 truck, GM could supply us with a new rubber trim to fit the seat belt opening. I might just order another one and cut it myself. I'll post a picture.

I went to silverstar on tuesday and they had 35 cars in the service drive. They said they couldn't get to it for 2 weeks, so I drove over to simi valley gmc. What did they replace when they tried to fix it?

They've had mine since Tuesday, but the part didn't come in until Thursday. I'm not sure exactly what they are replacing but they're spending two days on it. I'm supposed to get it back today. I'll report back.

I just had this happen to me last week. 2014 Sierra with 32,000 miles. I didn't even notice it until backing up my trailer and turning the wheels slowly with the air and radio off. It was louder when the steering wheel was center and I would turn it to the left and then to the right. I could hear click click click. Almost felt like it was in the suspension. However at that point I never felt it while driving. Then I was driving the next day and was getting a binding/resistance feeling when turning left but not when turning right. Almost similar to how it feels in 4 wheel high but less powerful. Then I was going through a canyon and turning it hard left and I got the binding sensation and then it just let go. It let go enough to make my stomach drop like, oh crap, please don't be a broken tie rod or something. Now the steering feels completely loose on left turns but not on right turns. I had to seriously turn the wheel to get the truck to turn left. I drove it straight to the dealer today and they called me this evening and said they are confidant it's something inside the steering column and have ordered the part. I didn't have time to get more involved into what part it was but I'll find out on Thursday when I get the truck back and let you know if it's fixed. At first I thought maybe it was because the truck was leveled and many people on the forum were talking about ball joint and other issues. But the dealer I went to said that's not the case, it's in the steering column and not the suspension. We shall see. I've found others who had steering and ball joint issues.

Looks like the Base (Elevation) model is going to have a different headlight than the SLT. On the base I see an orange turn signal indicator light towards the middle of the truck from the projector. On the SLT, it is all chrome with a different GMC logo. And I read on this forum earlier that the full led headlamps are coming with an oval projector. So 3 different headlamps are going to be available. For me with a 2014 SLE, the 2016 base headlights may be cheaper than the rest of the options. Only reason I'm looking at this is my model uses the headlight bulb as DRL so I don't want to put aftermarket HID's in there and constantly have problems. Everytime I unlock the truck, the lights come on and off, park to drive, on and off, remote start on and off and you get the idea. Plus running them all day long is going to wear them out prematurely. Funny thing is I could care less about the LED DRL or any LED's for that matter just have to have them to be able to run hid's. I understand the FXR projectors are better but I don't feel like cutting my headlight housing open. I'm good with a stock projector with HID. I ran it on my 2004 Sierra with the Denali headlights for years and it was fine by me. Anyways found the video down here...