Chrisd534

Thanks for the tips.. Any cleaning solvent you recommend? Also for the liner can I just drop the back or will it crease the liner

Quick question(s) .. Is 1 tube of the seam sealer stuff enough? And do you need the special gun for it? Also would it be comparable to 3M 08307 seam sealer or would you think sems is better?

Thanks. Yeah did them myself.. More of a pain in the ass removing the grill to get the lights out than it was to do the work. Used klearz lenses. Was torn between clear and smoked ended up going with clear kind of wish I went smoke to go with the all black look. Hopefully don't get scalded for posting these in this topic. Didn't take much with the lights apart unfortunately

Rotated every oil change Was thinking of doing that as the cheapest first option Thanks Tyler, I've had mud tires on my last 2 trucks (cooper stt pro) and these duratracs are by far the worst tire I've had. Just find it strange it's only on the inside and every other tread block. Just can't wrap my head around how that can happen. Seems we're in the exact same boat. Went with ko2 this go around It's not the loudness that bothered me I expect that with all aggressive tires. It was the vibration that really ****ed me up ahha

295/70/r18 KO2's on stock AT4 rims, no lift, no level. She rubs but barely at full lock when going up/down an incline on angle. I do have the added on mud flaps which is what they're hitting. With them removed no rubbing at all.

Hey all, Just changed the stock tires on my at4 due to horrendous vibration and humming between 70kmh and 105kmh. When I took them off I noticed pretty bad cupping on the inside of both fronts. I find it strange at 30k to have these issues. I'm all stock no lift no level on the 18 inch duratracs. Anyone else suffering from this or know why this might be happening? Want to get ahead of it while I have a fresh set before they get ruined. Thanks!

Was there a noticeable difference with the exhaust in sound? I want it to be louder but can't justify spending the money for something you can barely tell

Hey all, I was planning on washing the engine bay of my truck but wanted some Input first so I don't cause damage. Has anyone cleaned their 3.0 duramax engine bays and if so what product did you go with? What did you cover up to protect if anything or did you just giver? Thanks!

The light stays on no matter what position the switch is in. Even in off it stays on

Hey all, having an issue with my headlights I can't seem to figure out and wonder if anyone else had the same issue before I took it to the dealer. What's happening is my drivers side headlight is always on. When the truck is auto started or driving during the day the one headlight always stays on. When the truck turns off sometimes the one light will flicker like its trying to turn off before finally shutting down. Also there is no lights on the dash suggesting the lights are on. I had previously installed the illuminated gmc logo on the truck and after 2 years it got some water damage and failed. I figured it was because of that so I disconnected the inline connector but still having the same problem. Any help would be appreciated before I go to the dealer and they try blaming it on something stupid like a aftermarket CAI I attached a pic of the truck on while remote started

I own one with the multi pro tailgate and I love it. At4 I went with the 5 inch and don't regret it! Stays tucked up out of the way when not in use and easy to get back into place when needed

So I've officially had this happen for a 4th time now except this time I used the block heater. Temps went down to - 30c overnight so I plugged it in. Following day fans were on 100%. Made an appointment with the dealer and just got it back this evening. I put the s&b intake on between the 3rd and 4th cooling fan issue and now the dealer is trying to blame the issue on the maf sensor extension harness with the s&b kit. I think I need a new dealer or gm is just a joke it's been 2 years with this issue and still no fix

I just saw a post about gm stopping production of the LM2 due to supplier shortages.. Hopefully you get yours soon!

Sweet! Do you have this kit waiting to be installed?

I noticed afe has come out with a charge pipe kit for the baby duramax.. https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-20454-b-bladerunner-aluminum-hot-and-cold-charge-pipe-kit-black#overview Just curious if anyone has this kit installed or something cheaper since this is pretty pricey. Wondering on the sound it brings and performance as they are claiming a 7 percent increase in air flow. Wouldn't mind hearing a vid if anyone has! Thanks!

I actually got the notification 20 min ago saying it shipped

Weird.. I purchased on Saturday so I either got the last one or it went out of stock shortly after

This is from sb themselves Both offer similar performance characteristics, so the decision comes down to would you rather throw away the filter or clean it. Always wanted a filter you could just throw away without sacrificing performance? S&B's new Dry Filter is the answer. Airflow comparable to cotton filters. Same great protection S&B is known for. Lasts up to 30,000 miles on the highway. Extend the life of the filter using compressed air. Personally I got the dry as it's the only one in stock right now

Thoughts on heat soak in the summer time with the plug removed?

The problem is they won't change anything unless its actively happening. Both times I brought it to them and they say there's nothing they can do because it can't be recreated. Both times it happened it went back to normal after a few hours and a cold soak

The cord is still all nicely in the bag it came in. I find it very weird. If it makes a difference while the fans were blowing high the ambient air temp was way off. I'm talking snowing and - 10 Celsius out while the truck is reading summer temps around 30 Celsius.

Wouldn't mind hearing some before and after clips

I had this fan issue twice. Stopped after a day both times. I've also never plugged my truck into the block heater as it hasn't gone down to the recommended temps here yet. I brought to the dealer twice and because it wasn't happening they said they couldn't do anything.

I'm just worried they'll be creating an issue with the window replacement even though I don't have a leak. Good to hear though!

My rear window defrost isn't working and after multiple trips to the dealer and blown fuses they have decided to change the entire back window. I have 23k on my truck with no leak and I am worried now about the window being changed. Has anyone had success with a full window replacement and is there anything I should look out for?