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94boosted

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About 94boosted

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  1. Thank you for the detailed response 300 Blackout that's really helpful! I may just do what you suggested regarding cutting out the valve and muffler just down stream of the third cat. Do you get any drone at highway speeds after doing that? What about when towing? 95% of the exhaust systems I've heard on trucks sound great in the city but when driving out on the freeway, especially while towing/under load, they sound awful.
  2. Good to know, thanks. So how do all those AFM delete controllers/tunes work? Just force the valve to stay open as soon as vehicle is turned on?
  3. Good to know. Do you know if the valves default position is open and it only closes during 4cyl mode?
  4. I had the entire exhaust system replaced under warranty on my 2015 5.3 at 27K miles, 14 months later and now at 38K miles the noise is back. Take it to my dealership and they refuse to replace it, worst part is my comprehensive warranty expired 3 days ago. Such an awful dealership. What are my options? Is there any way to force the valve to stay open? Or if I get some sort of a piggy back tuner that disables AFM does the valve permanently stay open?
  5. So to confirm 75/90 Full Syn, API-GL5, no FM of any kind is the correct fluid for both front & rear diffs (including the locker rear diffs?) i.e. a Redline GL-5 Gear Oil What are the torque specs for the rear diff cover and the drain/fill plugs for the front diff? Also on a semi-related note what fluid & quantity should be used for the t-case? And what are the torque specs for the drain & fill bolts?
  6. I'm sure this has been answered already in this thread so I apologize for asking but I'm looking at pickup up a set of pre-cat shorty headers for my 2015 SLT All Terrain w/ 5.3 and it seems that the two I'm interested in specifically state that they're for vehicles "without EGR", I'd imagine our trucks have EGR so does that mean these headers won't work? http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/61A2280A0A0.aspx#customerReviewsTab http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/61A1879A0A0.aspx If not these what are my options? I will be bundling this with an Airaid Jr. Intake (already installed) and a Diablosport Intune i3 with the goal of hopefully picking up some meaningful low end - mid range grunt. I'm tired of my truck kicking down 1-2 gears on the highway when towing my open deck trailer and car at the slightest of inclines. Thanks for the help.
  7. Regarding intakes has anyone done a similar comparison to this for the newer DI 5.3's? I think this is for the old vortec motors (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/55742651/Intake%20Testing/Intake%20Testing%20Results%20-%20Intake%20Testing%20Results.pdf). Nearly 10WHP from a $200 Airaid Jr. on an otherwise stock truck seems like decent bang for your buck.
  8. Holy crap I can't believe I didn't think of that. FastWS6TA you're a genius, I totally had the airflow sensor unplugged and then turned the accessory power on to check to make sure all the lights work. I've cleared the code with my scan tool and it's not coming back. THANK YOU
  9. See from the very first post in this thread I thought the Capacitor / Error Code Eliminator / Can-Bus was the same thing. My kit looked like this.
  10. That's what I figured regarding the cable but wasn't sure. What is the difference between the capacitor and CANBUS Code Eliminator.
  11. I recently purchased and installed the Sierra Spec: Morimoto Elite HID System from the retrofit source, the quality of the kit is very impressive and the lights work great. However after the installation was completed I have two issues/questions and I'm looking for some suggestions on what to do: 1) This cable was un-used in the installation? Is this simply an extension harness to be used if needed? Or does it actually serve a purpose? 2) I had a Check Engine Light come on. Is this something to do with the CANBUS System? I thought this kit contained the capacitor/code eliminator?
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