mikeyk101

If you're on Facebook, throw an ad in the marketplace and specify local pickup. That's how I sold my BAK Revolver X2 when I removed it to put on the Century cap. I sold it pretty quick for about 1/2 of new. I got cash in hand, the guy who bought it got a good deal, didn't have to deal with shipping, and it was out of the garage...

Not trying to dissuade you but I thought about doing a locking gas cap as well. But what thieves are doing if they encounter a locking gas cap is just put a hole in the tank and drain what they need that way. (And if they don't take it all, a bunch of gas will now puddle under your truck.) Then you are stuck having to get a new gas tank. It's a lot more expensive then having gas siphoned out of the tank. Kind of the same thing with the service door on my garage. I never lock it. I figure if someone wants to get in there, they will. Usually kicking in a locked service door is the easiest way. They aren't very secure. By leaving it unlocked, at least I suffer the extra headache of having to fix that door while dealing with the stuff that might get stolen. I have insurance to replace the contents...

I had my dealer do it one time when I still had the OEM tires. It was a bit pricy but solved a shake I was having. When it was time to replace the original tires, I bought them from Discount Tire. I just learned recently by accident that they do free lifetime rotations and road force balancing as part of the original purchase. I was actually encouraged by them that when it's time for my next oil change, after its done, come by and get the tires rotated and balanced again. I have had very good experiences with dealing with them in the past and will probably use them for next tire purchase. They have numerous shops nationwide. Might reach out to a local one and see what they would charge to do this for you.

When you had the tires rotated and balanced, did they just do a traditional balance or did they do a road force balance? It does make a big difference.

This has to be up there as one of the most epic first posts I have ever read. Now if I could only figure out what it says. I think this may be a perfect example on why not to consume way too many adult beverages before posting...

Pretty sure @MikeBMWis using one of there and maybe he will jump in on the conversation and provide some insight...

What about tapping into an existing fuse on wither the driver's side or passenger side fuse block. It's one of the easiest ways to get access to power. This is how I wired my dash cam. You just have to figure out if you want a fuse that is controlled by ignitin switch or live all the time. Lots of choices to use. Limited-time deal: Nilight 12 Pack 12V Car Add-a-Circuit Fuse Tap Standard Mini Micro2 and Low Profile Fuse Taps 4 Types ATO ATC ATM APM Fuse Holder for Cars Trucks Boats https://a.co/62s5wc0

Before thinking the fluid is low make sure to check hot fluid level. https://www.1aauto.com/how-to-check-and-fill-transmission-fluid-14-19-chevy-silverado/video/47171

I suppose that is the "proper" way to do it but I say it's up to you. I was never able to find a GM part number for those o-rings. I have had those lines off twice, first to do pill flip and second to change to new thermostat. I am still using the original o-rings and no leaks. But pay close attention to those. They are tiny and easy to lose, I did discover that unfortunately...

This should help

The Sure Cool is a modification for the Transmission thermostat. https://transmissioncenter.net/shop/stl010-superior-2014-up-sure-cool-system-for-6l80e-transmissions/ I wonder if there's a way it could have been installed backwards blocking the hoses???

Have you tried connecting the trailer to another vehicle to rule out the trailer wiring?

My 2016 LT did not have the factory bed lighting. I did buy the OEM kit and install it though.

There is no flash module on these. Here is a thread that may help: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/177842-turn-signals-relayflasher/

I did the gasket but could never find the part # for the o-rings on the line. They seemed to be in good shape so I just reused them and have had no issues. Or rather no issues once I made sure both o-rings were on the lines before reinstalling but that's a whole other issue...

Looks like there are 4 different fuel pump related fuses. They are located in the fuse panel under the hood in engine compartment. They are fuse #18- fuel pump, fuse #21- fuel pump power module, fuse #41- fuel pump 2, and finally fuse #59- fuel pump. There is also 1 related relay also in the engine fuse block. Relay #66- fuel pump 2

Oh my, my poor wittle brain is now hurting from the information overload!!! Me, I will just stick with 0W20 as it is recommended and seems to work just fine. And even though I do know how to change the oil and do it for other stuff, I still just bring my Silvy to the dealer and have them do it as it's not much more expensive than doing it on my own. They also rotate the tires at the same time which saves me the trouble of doing it myself. And since I still have the GM ESP in effect for 3 more years and another roughly 50,000 miles, this is a good way to document that it is getting done. But this thread has presented a lot of very interesting information. Oil threads are usually the kiss of death and doesn't take much for them to go sideways...

I know you are probably trying to figure this out on your own to save some money but there is an anti theft disabler setup that is available but will set you back about $700 installed. I have considered doing this but haven't quite gotten around to looking further. Partially because I know my insurance would cover the theft if/when it would ever happen. But my biggest issue is that especially in the winter, I take advantage of the remote start. I know this is a hot topic with one particular forum member here but I still like the convenience of it. By putting on a kill switch, I would most likely lose the remote start capability and pretty sure this aftermarket setup would probably also prevent me from remote starting as well but haven't found further info on it. But take a look at this place. They advertise that no one has ever been able to steal a vehicle equipped with their kit: https://www.ravelco.com/index.html

This would get activated when turning on the rear cargo lights. If you wish to add a separate switch like one in the bed there are some threads in the forum that discuss options like this one: There is also a kit that you could add if you don't want to gather the different parts. That one is here: https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/14-18-silverado-lighting-1/products/external-bed-light-switch-kit

Here is the stuff I used. AC-Safe Air Conditioner Foaming Coil Cleaner https://www.homedepot.com/p/AC-Safe-Air-Conditioner-Foaming-Coil-Cleaner-AC-921/206740351 SKU# 206740351 Taking the grill off made it much easier to get access to the condenser. I also "LIGHTLY" used a soft bristle brush across the face of condenser after liberally spraying the cleaner on it to help. The stuff is supposed to be self rinsing but does say you can hose it off afterwards which is what I did. One can was just enough to do the entire face. I have been also looking for some kind of cleaning wand with a 90⁰ angled sprayer but haven't been really successful. Since bugs and such hit the face and get stuck, I would eventually like to try using a sprayer in between condenser and radiator and try to push the stuff back out the way it got there and really clean out those fins. Removing the top plastic cover and then removing the grill is actually a pretty quick process. I did try to also remove the plastic covering that sits directly on the condenser but wasn't able to detach the tabs that are on either side about a 1/3rd of the way down. That would give access in-between condenser and radiator I believe. At least for now, most of the bugs and such have been taken care off.

I got home safe and sound on Thur afternoon. There was a serious layer of bugs all over the front end, the mirrors, and the front of the toyhauler. I peeked inside the grill and the condenser was pretty caked with bugs as well. I mixed up my go to bug cleaner ( half Hydrogen peroxide and half water) and went to town. I was able to get everything cleaned off pretty well. Then I pulled off the grill to be able to get to the condenser. I used a full can of AC Coil cleaner to spray all over the face of the condenser. I let it sit for several minutes until most of the foam dissipated and then rinsed it real well. It looked much cleaner now. Luckily the fins were still in pretty good shape and only a very tiny percentage needed straightening. Although it will be a while like I mentioned earlier in this thread before I will be back in the mountains, it was still a good idea to do a good cleaning again anyway...

I have the dual digital AC controls that also have Auto on them. 2016 with just over 70,000 miles on it. Never had a problem, always on auto and just adjust the temperature and has always worked just fine. Luckily no condensor problems either but I may have just jinxed myself... Today though, I started out on a 400 mile trip. Temps were supposed to get up to the upper 90's. I didn't notice at first but after driving about 2 miles, I realized that the AC wasn't blowing out any air. I wasn't too happy knowing that it was going to be a long and hot trip. I figured maybe it was a fuse but decided I was going to wait until next fill up to check. After a couple more miles, I realized that I hadn't tried to adjust fan speed. I know that this will take it out off auto mode but figured it was worth a try. I turned fan all the way up and it started blowing cool air. I then pushed the auto button on the temperature button and it began to work like it should. Turned it to LO and it was pumping out on high fan. I adjusted up to around 68 and the fan kicked down like it should. It continued to work just fine for the rest of the day. So has anyone else experienced this? Is it just a warning that something is getting ready to fail? Or was it just something random?

All good info and I will have to remember this the next time I am back out west again. Might not be for some time though. As far as the tires, they are actually 275/60R20 so that may have come into play as well but I have the speedo corrected by the Rough Country speedo corrector. I believe the speed limit was 65mph but both times especially the second time back through, I was traveling less and no traffic to keep up with. Trans fluid had been changed the first time around 50,000 miles but that will be done again once I get back home.

Those Big Horn Mountains really are something else. So I began the eastward trek today. With full tank of 87 octane, I again started up into these mountains again on 16. The first part was again a serious grade but no signs to say what the percent was. This time I kept it in the 50mph range and never went much over 4k rpms. I didnt try to maintain speed and let it drop when it needed to. Luckily very little traffic and never really held anyone up. By maybe 5 miles up, I got the warning of the air conditioner being shut down because of engine heat and by this time the coolant was at 258⁰. Luckily I was already looking for a pullout and one was right there when this happened. I stopped and let it cool down. From then on, I just kept the AC off and opened the windows instead just to be safe. When I started off again, at times the coolant would get back to the 250⁰ range but then a couple down hill sections helped it cool down again. I was able to make it all the way to Buffalo without having to stop again. It mostly stayed in the 230⁰ range. Interestingly enough one of the longer flat runs, it actually cooled down to just under 180⁰. I thought that was a bit odd. That didn't happen on the way west. Before I hit Buffalo, there was a sign that said there were 5 downhill grades of 8%. After that sign and the first downhill grade, there was another sign with the number of approching grades dropping. But it looks like that initial westward climb was 8%. I tried to calculate how long it was and it looked like maybe 5 miles or just over. So that did put the engine to a real test. Based on what happened heading east, I don't think I can put the blame completely on the 85.5 octane I used the first time through. The first time through, I know I may have been going a little faster and running the rpms a lot higher for as long as I did. I didnt do that this second time. I know the trailer brakes weren't sticking because I have a TPMS system that also shows the temperature of each tire. All maintained roughly the same pressure and temp. And there was no smell or smoke coming from them. Same with truck tire pressure. All were about same and no smell or smoke. Not quite sure what to be looking at but sure seems like something is off.

Well looks like tomorrow I will find out. I fired up my Garmin RV GPS and plotted possible routes to my next destination of Devils Tower. One route puts me up in Billings Montana and taking I-90 to 212 over. The other route puts me back through the Big Horns again on 16 and then pick up I-90 over to 14 just past Gillette. Billings route is 374 miles and route through Big Horns is 315 miles. 315 miles beats 374...