mikeyk101

I would agree with this if I had an unmodified, unleveled truck. However because I have leveled the front end, there are other variables that come into play.

Here's the rub. The sag I get is well within normal operation. The trucks are designed with a certain amount of rake. Normally when connecting a trailer, and even one with a wdh, there will still be a certain amount of sag in the rear. Because of the rake, when adjusted properly, you will end up with the rear height pretty much even with the front. Now when you level, you have essentially eliminated the rake before the trailer even gets hitched up. So then when you get the inevitable sag, you will now have the headlights pointed skyward. Most wdh like my Equal-izer one, you adjust based on the height on the front of the truck. You want to get the front end of the truck back down to the height it was prior to being hitched. Mine does that perfectly. The height is dead on to the height iy was prehitch. But... because of the normal rear sag, the rear ends up being slightly lower than the front and headlights are raised. The amount of sag is acceptable, only about 1-1/2"-2" but because of leveling and eliminating the rake, this causes the issue. The solution is to use the air bags. I dont use them as a substitute for blocks to raise the rear end, just as an aid. They mount just above the axle and pretty much in same location as replacement blocks would be. I just set them at about 10lbs without the trailer and might bump them up to around 25lbs when adding the trailer. They are rated at 100lbs but I don't ever see a scenario where that much might be needed. I still adjust the airbags so there is still some sag, just not as much as there would be without them on my leveled truck.

I don't have the Max Trailer package but do have the trailering package on my 2016 LT. It has the NQH RPO code so the Dual speed transfer case and I have the 3.42 gears. As far as towing, I bought a Wildwood FSX 190RT toy hauler last year. Its a 25' trailer and I am using a Equal-Izer 4 point weight distribution hitch with it. I am also leveled 2" on front and went with Airlift air bags on rear to help control the unreasonable sag that leveled trucks can experience when towing. (I did pick up the onboard compressor kit over the winter and will be installing that soon.) Unloaded weight on that is just over 4400lbs and loaded with my 1200lb trike and some extras, I usually end up just north of 6000lbs. So far, I have felt just fine towing this. The trans and coolant temps were running a tad high and was struggling a bit when climbing some grades. I discovered that if I just dropped the gear shift lever from "D" to "M" just before reaching the grade, the trans would drop a gear and if it was a particularly long or steeper grade, dropping the "M" gear one gear, it did much better. Temps might still rise a bit but not like just staying in "D" and letting the truck decide. Last year was still running with the original installed OEM 190⁰ transmission cooler. This year though, I now have the updated 154⁰ cooler installed and am really looking forward to seeing how the trans temps do while towing. I will still use the "M" choice on grades and expect the trans temps to be much more reasonable.

I wasn't happy with that large front air dam either. But are you aware that it's actually 2 pieces and you can remove just the bottom piece? That's what I ended up doing and like it much better. I ended up removing the entire air dam to separate the pieces. It was a bit tedious but is fairly easy to do...

Not quite a mod but I had to replace the Illinois plates with Wisconsin plates as I recently became a new resident. Plates were easy, quick run on Thursday to DMV about 25 miles away with Illinois title and left with new Wisconsin title and plates. There was no line, only 1 person in front of me so I blasted through there in no time. I also got my new DL. Only hitch was that I was given 45 days to get emissions testing. So the Range AFM delete got unplugged and a Bluetooth OBDII tester got plugged in. By yesterday afternoon after a couple highway runs, all necessary tests showed complete. So today I drove the block and a half to a local auto shop that does emissions testing. Took all of a couple minutes and it passed. Pulling out, the Range got plugged back in again. Life is good!

I had a similar experience with a NAPA part some time back. There was a mod to use a Carter fuel pump on my bike. It was NAPA branded. First one died within a couple weeks and I was able to return it and get a replacement. I gave the bike to my son in law last year and it is still going strong...

If you went with larger tires and didn't correct the Speedometer/Odometer, you will also see a decrease especially if using the odometer. You are actually traveling further than what the odometer is showing and hence onboard mpg display will also be off. You would need to start calculating your distance traveled by using a standalone GPS or a cell phone GPS app.

Check with @Frankielozano214 I think he is selling a set of the LTZ taillights for $480 and then you would have a spare for the other side just in case... https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/246248-fs-oem-ltz-and-denali-taillights-with-oem-led-harnesses-480-shipped-each-set/

Well I don't think you will get anywhere with pd59 as he only had 4 posts here with above being his last and hasn't been back in 3 years. gandy181 isnt going to be any better as he only made 1 post, the above post, and hasn't been back since.

I don't think a free VIN check would provide much detail. For the reasons I stated in the other thread you started, https://www.autocheck.com/vehiclehistory/vehicle-history-reports had more information than Carfax. Although it wouldn't hurt to do both. Spending a few bucks now could save you a several thousand dollar mistake. It obviously cant tell you if a potential serious breakdown is going to happen but you can at least know what has and hasn't happened or been done.

Not sure what year your truck is but here is what is found for a 2016 crew cab. Scroll down to "Latch" and that part includes the actuator. The entire thing would need to be replaced. Just verify the RPO codes to make sure it is the correct one for you. Not recommending this place, just including it as a guide but I have ordered from them before. https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2016-chevrolet-silverado-1500_4wd/cab_and_body_structure_mirrors_doors_trim_seat_belts_wipers/door_hardware_side_front.html?filter=(e=L8B;t=MYC;m=CK15543)

Every door has its own lock actuator.

Its obviously having power loss like you suspect. And a bad ground would definitely be a good possibility. Since you have a 2014, the most likely culprit is the G218 ground issue. There are several youtube videos that show how to fix it. There is also a service bulletin that you should look at. You can download it here: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10113356-9999.pdf

Is the 6.2 a direct replacement or is different mounting hardware needed?

When do we get to hear them???

It's your actuator and it will need to be replaced. I had exact same problem.

Unfortunately, you reset it and it's gone. FYI there is a way to hide it so you wouldn't normally see it. That's what I did so when flipping through the screens, only the Trip A shows up. You can also hide other screens as well IIRC.

You will need a crystal ball for that. Or just flip a coin. IMHO, prices are not going to go down anytime soon. Inflation mixed with supply chain issues (chip shortage) are going to continue to be with us for some time to come.

2 hours ago, william mekhjian said: personally i hate Vandergriff because they switched out my vehicle with one that one of their mechanics ran over someone with and refused to replace what they did. Any one else notice an uptick of 1st post wonders posting a completely off the wall 1st post or is it just me???

It lists "No Autostop" in the sticker. I'm assuming that means it doesn't shut off at stops and restart when you get ready to move again? That's my biggest gripe on the newer ones and didn't like it. I had a newer loaner one time and absolutely hated that option.

I don't believe the 2015 has that capability. I know when my 2016 needed an update to give Android Auto capability, the software installation had to be done by the dealer.

As far as your tires, are they LT tires because those are going to have stiffer sidewalls and as a result, a much stiffer ride.

That's not going to work either. I know that mine was originally shipped to a dealer in Dayton Ohio and then to Merrillville Indiana where I purchased it. Neither Ohio or Indiana fall into recall locations.

I'm sure there is one and it may have been mentioned earlier in this thread but I don't think torque is as important on this. I followed nice and tight when I did mine and not ham fisted crank it on as tight as possible. Just snug it fully down and a tad more and you will be fine. Found it. The official torque values were listed on page 4 of this thread In the event that anyone was sitting on the edge of their seat in anticipation for the torque specs, you may now rest. The bolt that holds the thermostat housing to the transmission case = 16 FOOT POUNDS (192 INCH POUNDS) The bolt that holds the cooler lines to the thermostat housing = 106 INCH POUNDS (8.8 FOOT POUNDS) https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/253735-im-sorry-but-it-is-kind-of-funny-gm-21-na-199/?do=findComment&comment=2554987

Amazing and extremely insightful first post. Did you join just to post this???