truckguy82

L86 and lt1 are the same exact motor with different tuning, exhaust, and intake

NJ, philly suburbs

There is nothing that is oem quality except buying a better bulb.

Thanks perfect!

Can someone take a picture of their driver seat all the way forward. my seat tries to take off the plastic trim when I slide it forward. I have to slide it all the way forward to put car seat in back. i’m not sure if the plastic seat trim is too low, just want to know what it’s supposed to look like. Seat has never been removed or anything. these are slt leather heated, but not ventilated, seats if it matters thanks

I believe you need to know the “carrier size?” like I think the all the 6.2’s had the 9.76” like there is only one year and model for the oem 9.76” 3.73. Thats a 2014 max tow 6.2L that was the only year the 6.2L had a 6speed

There goes that debate

Just look for lt1 manifold swap threads

Wouldn’t that negate your post about learning via knock sensor? i mean it’s changing to a different map, I’d assume it’d have to relearn. also I though the learning process was much much faster than a few tanks. i can’t verify this, just what I’ve heard

i’d assume the maps instantly change when the sensor detects e85.

I’ve never driven a car with e85, they dont offer it in my area. but I would think the e85 changes ignition and fuel timing. I would think that would give you a boost in the low end too. Maybe it only changes the open loop tables? But that doesn’t make that much sense either. hmm

It really just helps with first gear imo i mean he’ll just shift to second gear sooner with gears

There is no way that beam pattern is from a 2014/2015 slt/denali our projectors have sort of a rough lens, reminds me of like privacy glass. They build it to intentionally not have a sharp beam pattern. Why, I have no idea. When I took my slt projector out, it was of much better build quality then the d2s mini 4.0 I replace it with. I don’t know why the hell they put that expensive heavy duty projector in with some crappy beam pattern. D2s mini feels cheaps but the beam pattern is razor sharp and really wide and uniform

Dont get gears, a tune would help more with that

Which would be pretty much the same thing as him just leaving his trans in m5.

With the hylux there’s no seperate anti flicker/can bus. You just order the ballast and you’re done. Definitely no battery connections. it is superior to the morimoto without a doubt. It was recommended to me by a company that sells both products and said the morimoto, while higher quality than some of the other crap out there, has much more problems than the hylux. And sure enough, it’s dead reliable. No idea why’d you’d order the morimoto since it’s not any cheaper.

The best bulb ballast combo for our trucks is the hylux 35w ballast and the morimoto bulb. the hylux is completely plug and play, literally just connect it, and find a ground. Near oem reliability. the hylux 45w ballast is different, it is not plug and play. Just buy these things and call it a day, they are not expensive. I have a ‘14 slt, same headlight as you. I never tried it with the stock projector as I upgrade to a d2s mini projector. So you could always try the ballast and the bulb and if you don’t like it upgrade the projector. but d2s mini, hylux ballast, + morimoto bulb = near oem reliability, and $100k luxury car level of headlight quality but more output, for around $350 total if I remember correctly.

Do not buy from them. you probably read one of my posts recommending them. he disappeared, probably not in business anymore and just leaves the website active highly recommend retrofit source

I’m Assuming you are doing the obvious and resetting the codes each time.

Pretty sure meth won’t add any power by itself. From what I understand all it does is cool the intake charge and prevent detonation. Kinda like octane in fuel, or e85… it doesn’t add any power unless you adjust the tune to compensate for the fact that it resists detonation. More resistance to detonation = more aggressive tuning = more power

No that has the morimoto ballast and all that other BS. Hylux 35w ballast and bulbs is all you need. just call them, its easier. The people that answer the phone know what they are doing.

“The perfect racing car crosses the finish line first and subsequently falls into its component parts." -- Ferdinand Porsche Is it still amusing coming from the founder of the most successful racing company that was ever created.

I was thinking more along the lines of professional racing, and lasting until the finish line is well known saying. I wasn’t talking about racing boats either. You said engines don’t like being at max rpm for a long time, well that’s exactly what they do in boats. The literally put car engines, small block v8’s just like ours, into boats and they can and will sustain high rpm for hours. Max rpm is an arbitrary number the manufacturer decided to limit the rpm too. Evident by my point that they limited the l86 to 6k rpm. I mean, yeah obviously 6k rpm is worse than 2k rpm. But a blanket statement of saying they are “not built to stay up there” simply isn’t true. what there not design to do is stay up there without shitloads of cooling, which is probably why your v10 blew up

Pretty sure there are some boat builders and owners that would disagree. Race engines are totally different, the perfect race car engine blows up as it crosses the finish line.

Because it means we know for a fact they put the rev limiter far below what the engine is actually capable of spinning without damage. Which also means they probably did the same thing with the 5.3 considering it has a similar power-band and architecture. Which means the OP probably doesn’t have to worry, which is the entire point of this thread