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Doolin-Dalton

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About Doolin-Dalton

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  1. Ah, gotcha sorry. I thought that the IOR Radio Receiver was only in the CUSTOM Trucks. That the IOS and IOT receivers are in the LT, LTZ and up....
  2. It sure is and I want to believe they would make it right if they could but financially, with COVID19 and all the closures, I doubt it will be this year. They are offering too many 4-6 month no payment incentives that suggest all of the manufacturers are desperate. Maybe in 2021 if they engineer a better window, then they'll retroactively use it to replace any 19s & 20s still having the problem. Salt on the wound is that I've seen too many folks showing pictures of the scratches, rips and rubs that the techs make in removing and reinstalling these windows in their new trucks. Apparently they have to get inside, crawl around the back of the cab to do it? Side note, I was at a tire store the other day, getting a tire mounted to a rim for one of our other cars. Those guys in the bays working in all this heat, they are covered in sweat & grease. They get into customers cars like that all day long. I was like - um yeah, I think if I ever have to come in and leave the vehicle for a new set of tires, if they have to get into my vehicle like that, I'll make habit of coming to have that work done in the Winter!
  3. 1) Steering wheel from the LT with radio buttons if you want that feature 2) The radio is a receiver unit behind the screen, I'm not 100% sure if you do/or do not need both the touch screen from the LT and the IOS Radio. Can you find out if they are the same touch screen in both models? 3) If you are wanting the IOS radio to work with the LT Steering wheel in your Custom Truck, you will also need the Speedo Gauge Cluster from the LT 4) The Speedo Gauge cluster will need to be wiped, the memory wiped or you'll get error/tampering codes thrown. You can send the Speedo Gauge Cluster to White Automotive Media Services (WAMS) in Texas. 5) #3 & #4 only applicable if you are wanting the Steering wheel radio controls feature. The reason it is necessary is that the Speedo Gauge is a bridge in the wiring harness configuration, the signal from the Steering Wheel Buttons go thru the Speedo Gauge and on to the Radio Receiver.
  4. I have a TB, but its the Custom Trim, no sliding window, no leak. Just a thought, but if someone did a have a leak, is it an option to ask them to replace the sliding window with a fixed window?
  5. Awesome, I have the 2019 Custom Trial Boss with 5.3L and was thinking about the Muffler Delete, is that what you mean by straight pipe exhaust? If so, how do you like it, how is the noise at freeway cruising speeds, any drone? Can you add a pic of the underside? THANKS!
  6. This is awesome and you're right a must for DFI engines. My previous truck was the 2016 2500HD with the 6.0L V8 but I think that engine was the last of the SFI. DFI is nice, but it comes with a hiccup in gunk, these catch cans help eliminate that.
  7. Incredible, do you have a post already - step by step instructions and photos how to install this? Links to where you got yours? Sincere thanks if you can do this.
  8. Yes, b/c the wiring harness for the Sport Bar goes from the Bar, under the truck, up into the engine bay and then connects under the Fuse Box, there is a slot for the Top Mounted Center Brake Light (TMCBL) there. I guess it might be possible to not deactivate the other one, but you might not pass inspection that way (b/c you'll have the red light behind the bar illuminating from your cab) But either way, the dealer will charge $200 for the connection to the fuse box, they have to remove the top of it, and connect underneath. If you can get one that doesn't require all the drilling, wiring and delete of your TMCBL, then that might be the way to go. If I could have had the Trail Lights or Light Bar that mounts on top of the Sport Bar, I might have had different feelings about that, but I had researched it, and those were like another $750-900 at the Dealership, I wanted the kind you could illuminate the trail in front of you at night, and turn them on with the dash switch. In the end I just decided to remove the rig.
  9. The legs of the sport bar that are closest to the back of the cab or back window, simply mount into the existing Stake Holes on the bed rail However, the legs of the sport bar that are further back, about halfway point on the bed, these require drilling 2 holes, about 1/2 inch diameter each, on both sides of the Top Bed Rails, so 4 holes total - thru the plastic cover. If you feel on the under side of your bed rails you should find these holes already there stamped into the metal part of your bed rail from the factory. But you will have to drill thru the plastic cover on the top of the rail. The other thing, this Sport Bar will require you to go to the dealership to delete the Rear Top Mounted Brake Light on the top of your Cab, to render it inoperable. Then you'll need to buy a wiring harness that connects to your fuse box and goes under the truck, to the Sport Bar. The Sport Bar will be the new Rear Top Mounted Brake Light. The Wiring Harness is $150. The Labor for doing the wiring delete and installing to connect to your Sport Bar is $200-300. The Sport Bar is $695. So Long story short, this is a $1,000 "Option Package" and this almost no way around it. Open your wallet. Now here is the part you didn't ask, and I sincerely don't want to hurt anyone's feelings on the forum, but I just have to say - It's not worth it. I am so happy that I removed this from my truck. I get that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, some will love it and that's fine too. I think the Sport Bar makes the truck into an SUV, just consider if that is the look you are tansitioning from Truck to SUV. Some may want that, but I wanted a Truck. I really really like the aesthetics without it.
  10. sorry I sold it, seemed like it was sold in 2-3 days after I posted. Hot item....
  11. Yeah, it was completely optional and just based on something I read. That included that your first couple hundred miles should try as much as possible to vary the speed and driving conditions, to include doing some short bursts WOT here and there. The idea behind this is to fully seat the piston rings from the earliest opportunity. I realize some will say that's nonsense in a modern engine, but I did it and so step 2 was to drain the oil early at 500 to remove any microscopic metal. The 2nd oil change at 5400 was only b/c it had been just shy of a year from the first change. The e85 is another topic lots of folks will argue, but the jist of it is, tons more HP, and longer engine life (using e85, the engine runs at much cooler temps in combustion.) I've been doing it for a year, no hiccups. I miss the old days when we could run full e85 "Flex Fuel" equipped trucks. The 50-50 mix results in about an E40 and the truck does fine with it.
  12. One year in, only 5,400 miles driven in that time, much of that due to the COVID19 shut downs and been blessed to be able to telework these past four months. Mine is a 2019 Trail Boss, Custom, 5.3L V8 - did the first oil change at 500 miles, second oil change at 5,400. MOBIL1 - been running on lots of e85 Ethanol 50-50 mix with 93 pump gasoline - 2 simple mods (JET Stage II Performance Module on the ECM and Husky Liners on the Rear Wheel wells) - only one issue has been a couple times where the Infotainment screen went black. I read something online that if you push the On-Star button, let it ring and then hang up, it will "Reset" the infotainment. Did this a couple months ago and haven't had problem since, fingers crossed. - 2 Speed Transfer Case (4HI & 4LOW) is a real GEM to have, got me out of some real deep mud once. - Very pleased overall, solid truck, excellent fuel mileage with the AFM, sometimes can yield 22+MPG highway - design is very forward, modern, interior tons of space and comfortable - highly recommend to anyone thinking about buying one
  13. The steering wheel is a direct swap. I did mine, purchased an LT steering wheel on eBay. The Cruise Control buttons work just fine. The radio buttons do not work. The wiring cluster (the port plug) that is at the bottom of the steering wheel, it goes from the steering wheel, to the Instrument Panel/Speedo Cluster and then to the Radio. So I have also purchased a Speedo Cluster from an LT, but I have not yet installed it. Before that is done, I need to send it to White Automotive & Media Svcs (WAMS) in Texas. They need to clear the Speedo Cluster memory card, so that when I do install it, it will not throw any error codes for tampering. So once I do that, I will post an update, if any of the Radio buttons on the steering wheel work. IF/THEN that does not work, then the last thing to do is remove the radio receiver (which is an "IOR") and try to find/install a radio that is an "IOS" or "IOT" these latter 2 radio receiver types are the ones that are in the LT and LTZ trucks. I'm not 100% sure that is required yet, but planning to do it in stages to see what works, what does not. The good news, from a basic start, the Leather Steering wheel is much nicer and the Cruise Control button works just fine, without any programming or technical work necessary. If you are going to do this, make sure you unplug NEG battery cable first.
  14. OP - this is not GM damage, it is either the dealership or the transport. The dealerships are constantly parking inventory 1" apart and then moving vehicles back and forth. They nick and ding them all day long. It's horrendous. The damage on your truck is really upsetting to see - but - the saving grace is that you have the flat red paint, which is easier to match, than is a metallic paint. Whether or not they have to paint an entire panel, depends on the talent of the best paint shop available in that location. I've seen some that can easily do spot paint and blend, but it's requires the right skill level and knowledge with the paint. If they cannot fix it, are you in a position to either ask for $1500 off after the fix for a repaired truck, or reject the purchase altogether?
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