Doolin-Dalton

EXIT STRATEGY = CARVANA

Sold my 2019 TB a year ago to Carvana. Thinking about getting back into a 2022 in a couple months. Just curious if anyone has heard, read or insights otherwise on what is the likelihood that the Rear Window Leak, Radio Glitches and Low Res Rear Camera issues might be GM factory resolved by then? It's been 3 years of lots of buyer noise, TSBs in that space, what are the chances?

Absolutely horrendous, so many thousands of units with this issue. Is your truck the Slider Window or Fixed Window?

Brother, you're not alone. But be it known, the problem is imho a design issue. There are 16 holes in the roof under that rear spoiler. In addition, the rear window encasement is prone to cracking, something in the design has too much flex, recall those torsional rigidity commercials Chevrolet used to tout. Torsional rigidity requires an engineer and apparently focus groups are designing vehicles these days and not engineers. Everyone's truck is 100% susceptible to this leakage. Driving rain and car wash probably OK. Sitting outside in the rain for days, or covered in snow, you're gonna leak and it's going to ruin the vehicle.

Fascinating. Did you previously have a leak and you're sharing that it is fixed?

https://gmauthority.com/blog/2020/12/general-motors-hit-with-class-action-lawsuit-in-california-over-infotainment-system/

#HowToSpot a FORD Marketing Rep in a Chevy Forum.

Affects multiple colors but especially the metallic paint. No your brand new truck wasn't in an accident at the dealership or in transit. It is a Factory Paint Flaw (or not a flaw per say but an "Anomaly") that is occurring on the front corner plastic flares. Apparently these are painted separately from the main truck body and they are causing mis matches. Metallic paint can be very tricky if not applied in the exact same direction and on the same type of substrate (plastic versus tin vs aluminum)

It's the rear spoiler, on the top back of your roof. Same thing happening with 1500s. There is some kind of torsional rigidity (or lack thereof) that is happening between the fixed plastic spoiler and the flex in the cabin body at the roof line.

Hard to pick just one. I like the new design esp the rear cab spoiler, the northsky blue, the spoke wheels, drivability, its a very smooth ride and prolly the tailgate with "CHEVROLET" on it.

Yeah, I like em, alot. Just seems more proportional to my eye. My 2500HD had an 8FT Bed, and I kinda got used to it. When I purchased this new 2019 TB, I was surprised to learn it wasn't even an option anymore.

Yeah, they moved it to the front center dash, go figure.... Sunglasses heat up real bad there too.

Hmmm...link don't work

can you post a link to the FB group, haven't seen it...interested.

Does anyone know when Chevrolet stopped making the 8FT Bed for the Quad Cab model on the 1500 trucks? I know they still have them for the Single Cab, and on the 2500HDs Crew & Quad Cabs, but just curious any insights on why they don't offer them for the 1500 Quad Cab. I see very many 1990s early 2000s Quad Cab 1500 series trucks with the 8FT Bed, and under the belief they were popular or at least that some healthy demand exists. It would be my first choice if they had them....

Just washed CHEVROLET

Ah, gotcha sorry. I thought that the IOR Radio Receiver was only in the CUSTOM Trucks. That the IOS and IOT receivers are in the LT, LTZ and up....

It sure is and I want to believe they would make it right if they could but financially, with COVID19 and all the closures, I doubt it will be this year. They are offering too many 4-6 month no payment incentives that suggest all of the manufacturers are desperate. Maybe in 2021 if they engineer a better window, then they'll retroactively use it to replace any 19s & 20s still having the problem. Salt on the wound is that I've seen too many folks showing pictures of the scratches, rips and rubs that the techs make in removing and reinstalling these windows in their new trucks. Apparently they have to get inside, crawl around the back of the cab to do it? Side note, I was at a tire store the other day, getting a tire mounted to a rim for one of our other cars. Those guys in the bays working in all this heat, they are covered in sweat & grease. They get into customers cars like that all day long. I was like - um yeah, I think if I ever have to come in and leave the vehicle for a new set of tires, if they have to get into my vehicle like that, I'll make habit of coming to have that work done in the Winter!

1) Steering wheel from the LT with radio buttons if you want that feature 2) The radio is a receiver unit behind the screen, I'm not 100% sure if you do/or do not need both the touch screen from the LT and the IOS Radio. Can you find out if they are the same touch screen in both models? 3) If you are wanting the IOS radio to work with the LT Steering wheel in your Custom Truck, you will also need the Speedo Gauge Cluster from the LT 4) The Speedo Gauge cluster will need to be wiped, the memory wiped or you'll get error/tampering codes thrown. You can send the Speedo Gauge Cluster to White Automotive Media Services (WAMS) in Texas. 5) #3 & #4 only applicable if you are wanting the Steering wheel radio controls feature. The reason it is necessary is that the Speedo Gauge is a bridge in the wiring harness configuration, the signal from the Steering Wheel Buttons go thru the Speedo Gauge and on to the Radio Receiver.

I have a TB, but its the Custom Trim, no sliding window, no leak. Just a thought, but if someone did a have a leak, is it an option to ask them to replace the sliding window with a fixed window?

Awesome, I have the 2019 Custom Trial Boss with 5.3L and was thinking about the Muffler Delete, is that what you mean by straight pipe exhaust? If so, how do you like it, how is the noise at freeway cruising speeds, any drone? Can you add a pic of the underside? THANKS!

This is awesome and you're right a must for DFI engines. My previous truck was the 2016 2500HD with the 6.0L V8 but I think that engine was the last of the SFI. DFI is nice, but it comes with a hiccup in gunk, these catch cans help eliminate that.

Incredible, do you have a post already - step by step instructions and photos how to install this? Links to where you got yours? Sincere thanks if you can do this.

Yes, b/c the wiring harness for the Sport Bar goes from the Bar, under the truck, up into the engine bay and then connects under the Fuse Box, there is a slot for the Top Mounted Center Brake Light (TMCBL) there. I guess it might be possible to not deactivate the other one, but you might not pass inspection that way (b/c you'll have the red light behind the bar illuminating from your cab) But either way, the dealer will charge $200 for the connection to the fuse box, they have to remove the top of it, and connect underneath. If you can get one that doesn't require all the drilling, wiring and delete of your TMCBL, then that might be the way to go. If I could have had the Trail Lights or Light Bar that mounts on top of the Sport Bar, I might have had different feelings about that, but I had researched it, and those were like another $750-900 at the Dealership, I wanted the kind you could illuminate the trail in front of you at night, and turn them on with the dash switch. In the end I just decided to remove the rig.

The legs of the sport bar that are closest to the back of the cab or back window, simply mount into the existing Stake Holes on the bed rail However, the legs of the sport bar that are further back, about halfway point on the bed, these require drilling 2 holes, about 1/2 inch diameter each, on both sides of the Top Bed Rails, so 4 holes total - thru the plastic cover. If you feel on the under side of your bed rails you should find these holes already there stamped into the metal part of your bed rail from the factory. But you will have to drill thru the plastic cover on the top of the rail. The other thing, this Sport Bar will require you to go to the dealership to delete the Rear Top Mounted Brake Light on the top of your Cab, to render it inoperable. Then you'll need to buy a wiring harness that connects to your fuse box and goes under the truck, to the Sport Bar. The Sport Bar will be the new Rear Top Mounted Brake Light. The Wiring Harness is $150. The Labor for doing the wiring delete and installing to connect to your Sport Bar is $200-300. The Sport Bar is $695. So Long story short, this is a $1,000 "Option Package" and this almost no way around it. Open your wallet. Now here is the part you didn't ask, and I sincerely don't want to hurt anyone's feelings on the forum, but I just have to say - It's not worth it. I am so happy that I removed this from my truck. I get that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, some will love it and that's fine too. I think the Sport Bar makes the truck into an SUV, just consider if that is the look you are tansitioning from Truck to SUV. Some may want that, but I wanted a Truck. I really really like the aesthetics without it.