16LT4

Back in the day there were arguments over how much to mill the heads and still run pump gas... and now we have questions on how to keep the seats clean. Sigh.

Picked a 95* day to give my chainsaw a workout. Loaded until the truck hit the bump stops, then kept loading.

Nothing you posted was enlightening, only dimming. If tires are wearing that differently fore and aft, one is 1) not rotating them or 2) doing the burnouts. (Hence the burnout item I mentioned). Rotations equalize the normal wear and tear. If a sent of 4 tires is too expensive for a K2 owner/renter then maybe, just maybe, they’re driving the wrong vehicle. If vehicle maintenance is make or break, there are larger problems. I wasn’t kidding or joking so save your wannabe attitude. When tires wear differently, you rotate them. End of conversation.

Who TF is only replacing 2 tires at a time??? If you need to to this, try: 1) rotating tires 2) stop the burnouts. Cool in HS, not so much in middle age. 3) rotating tires 4) affording 4 tires

X3 for the 5k mile rotation. I rotate, change all fluids/filters, and do an ignition tuneup on every thing I buy in order to set the baseline.

120* C (248*F) won’t be overheating on these things, though is close. Pressure and coolant mix raise the boiling point up to around 260*F IIRC. The dealer is quoting a worst case scenario on that temp and I do agree if temp is getting that high there’s other issues to deal with. If it helps assuage any buyers remorse, I’ve worked on enough Fords, all with the same exact issues (failed timing chain tensioners and guides), to never own one ever again. But I also expect 300k miles without issue. I only buy used, sometimes over 100k miles; I’ll let the original owner take the financial hit and then I’ll still have a reliable, clean vehicle for hundreds of thousands of miles for a fraction of the price. You paid $60k for added comfort not added durability, so I’d reckon that aspect has been fulfilled. If that is too much, or the just wasn’t worth the squeeze, trade it in for a cheaper truck, or one from another brand, but don’t expect perfection. Emissions and fuel economy requirements have upped engine temps, leaned the fuel mix, and added miles of electronic complexity. At least these trucks don’t have their fuel pump driver module circuit board cleverly hidden inside a sacrificial metal case and mounted above the rear axle, like a Ford... mine went through 3 of those in 150k miles at $100 a piece.

With preventive maintenance schedules offering 12-18% cost savings over reactive maintenance, and predictive schedules another 8-12%, why would anyone not be proactive if costs savings and longevity are the ultimate goals? ? I’m thoroughly satisfied with the build quality of my ‘16. Definitely better than the “plastic fantastic” ‘99 Sierra Z71 that was the last full size GM Truck I’d owned, and better than the F150 that preceded it. My father also bought a ‘16, a Colorado CCLB Z71, brand new to replace the last vehicle he’d bought new, an ‘86 Mitsubishi Mighty Max. With 345k on it, it still purred like a kitten, but the years of hauling the boat in and out of salt water had taken its toll and he finally sold it when the cab mounts came though the floor and the cab dropped, but it still drove fine on only it’s second clutch, which had 200k on it. ? These trucks will go the distance if you let them, IMO.

2017 CC 5.3/6L80 4x4 At 87.5k I’m not at what I’d consider high mileage, but I’ll hit 90k within the next 2 weeks and 100k by the end of the year. The truck has been NY-FL twice so far this year, with 2 more to go, as well as a few NY-OBX trips. It’s hauled a crowned bed of white oak with 4K lbs behind it a couple times, with many more to go. Ive had to replace... the brake pads and rotors all around. I replaced plugs and wires at 75k miles. I’m Still on the original AC condenser, no tune, no catch can, no mods. If I keep highway speed under 70 it can pull an almost 27 mpg tank average. No shudders, no clunks, no confused shifts. I may “overmaintain” as well, but things like misfires, stalls, shudders, and broken parts are not things I typically ever deal with (with one notable exception), no matter the mileage or the marque. My maintenance strategy is preventive/predictive, not reactive. Engine oil- 5k Coolant/brake fluid- 2 years Transmission drain/fill- yearly Transfer case- 20k Diffs- 30k Plugs/wires- 60-75k. The other vehicles get COPs at around 100k. They get washed 2-4 times a month depending on mileage. Same with interior cleaning, especially the inside glass. Waxed as soon as the water begins to stop beading. Foil windshield sunshield everytime they get parked. Yes its got 2/3 the mileage of the 155k 5.4-3v F150 FX4 it replaced, but this truck is much better design, IMO. I have no interest in 4 hour spark plug jobs, full timing rebuilds at least once in the truck’s life, or corroded fuel pump drivers. One thing I’ve always loved about GMs is the relative ease of maintaining/repairing them. I see no reason for the drivetrain to not outlast the body/chassis (which is 100% rust, dent, scratch, flake free) and go 300k miles.

If the lifetime fluid lasts the life of the transmission, then it is truthful advertising. Shhh never mind the reduced life of the transmission. ? Maintenance free sells cars and is why a matchbook is no longer in the toolbox. I however firmly believe that 300-500k miles is quite possible on all driveline components. I do like the Redline stuff too, I have their gear oils in all my diffs. I also modify what I can to make basic maintenance easier, and therefore more frequent. My VW doesn’t even have a fill plug on the transmission and must be filled and level checked via the drain plug, talk about the manufacturer really trying to prevent maintenance! Queue the outlier with “300k miles on original fluids and spark plugs and it drives just fine” lol.

I use the Valvoline Dex6 in my truck (87k miles), Olds (130k on a thoroughly abused but never broken trans) and BMW (164k miles) and never so much as a hiccup on any of them. I do drain/fills about once a year, and installed a drain plug in the Silverado’s pan to facilitate fluid changes. Last time I got a case of Valvoline, I got it on sale from Advance for $2-3/quart.

Took my ‘16 5.3 crewcab 4x4 from NY to FL a few weeks ago. It was in the 30s when we left and 80s when we arrived. My mileage increased directly with temperature, from mid 18s up to 23 mpg. Mileage increased roughly 1 mpg for every 10*F in air temperature; temps stayed in the 40s until SC as did my low fuel mileage, which helps take “winter fuel” off the list of explanations, leaving stoich and air resistance as the main reasons. With no one on the road, the truck was stuck on cruise control at 72 mph the entire trip; I went a full 450 miles without touching the brakes, slowing down only for off ramps. Best highway trip I’ve ever taken, and perfect conditions. This was on 87 octane. Back in January, headed North from FL to Norfolk, we hit a best tank average of 26.5 mpg, with the cruise set to 67 mph and 89 octane. That same trip saw almost 24 mpg on 89 doing 72 mph from the Treasure Coast to Key Largo and back. Down here in FL right now I averaged 18.5 mpg around town on 87, the current tank has 89 to see if the juice is worth the squeeze. The truck currently has 87.5k miles and has never had a valve or upper engine cleaning, other than some MMO in the oil a couple times.

Added a higher profile Bugflector now that it’s Love Bug season down in FL!

Great color. I usually like the Blues the most.

That referred to the federal government, who pays me to work on their broken shit. Not to mention, all my licenses and certifications. I haven't even had to buy boots since 2005... I get reimbursed 2 pairs a year. Pissed off yet? Good. Enjoy it. I know I do! Douche.

Still looking for a dispute to the filter data posted. You can doubt what I post, but the fortunate thing about life and science is that you can think all you want, doesn't make it true. I see in your avatar you have a truck with 22s. Assuming stock, that comes commensurate with a truck with leather, and a whole assortment of luxury items. I have little respect for anyone who needs luxury items in a vehicle let alone a truck; comfort belongs in your bed not your truck. Insult my professions all you want, but I'm not the one advertising their wuss-mobile. I'm not worried that you won't bring me your truck to fix, because you're certainly the type to get wet in the diapers when it approaches 100k and needs to "upgrade" to the latest and greatest trash. It's ok.. we can't all keep the old junk humming along. Hey you know what? The flow data for air filters hasn't changed yet. Funny how that [doesn't] happen.

Hey, you're the one who directed to me in the first place, when I never actually directed towards you. If I'd initially wanted to quote you, I would have. In the meantime, you can rely on data. You don't have to trust me; all you have to do is keep paying my salary, license fees, insurance, cell phone bills, etc. because people with more power trust it. I posted just one of many on the subject of airflow and filters; no, physics hasn't changed much over the years, so the information applies. I suppose you're also one to spit at oblate speroid earth/evolution/climate change data? Simple, common sense says that if the filter flows more, it filters less... oh, fluid dynamics says the same. A Civic get towed in the other day for a flat tire. Popped the hood and saw a "CAI." I dragged it to the curb with the tractor without touching the tire and left the tow bill on the seat, I won't touch garbage. Carry on, softy.

How about some actual data? Sure. https://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/air-filter-study.html Just one of the many sources out there showing the exact same thing. The more air a filter lets through (less restrictive), the less it actually filters. So, paying more to do less. I run Napa, Wix or AC Delco. An air filter filters the air... if it doesn't it's not doing its job. It's NOT. THAT. HARD. Like it or not, my record of decades of not having mechanical failures is what credibility is based on, not to mention having to fix everyone else's F-ups (including shops and dealers). That's what I do, and it's not even my full-time job. When a vehicle rolls in with some reusable filter or "cold air intake" I rip that crap off and toss it in the trash and charge for the trouble. So feel free to take the weekend-warrior "I did my own oil change and know what I'm talking about" mindset and combine it with $2 and get a cup of coffee, because that's what 95% of the crap on this forum is worth.

And a qualified driver will do better than any of the nanny-aids. I still daily my '84 GMC that doesn't have a spec of rust anywhere, and isn't garaged up here in upstate NY. It isn't hard to keep a truck from rusting, it just takes a little effort. It's been NY-FL a few times, and will be going back down in a few years when I build another house. If a new truck is more reliable than an old truck, the issue isn't the truck, it's the maintainer.

If you promote a K&N filter, you immediately lose all credibility on every subject. Paying more money for an air filter that filters less from the air is ironic at best, catastrophic at worst. But hey, if you gotta keep up with the Jones and toss the truck before it's an issue, who cares, right?

Yes... use it. Or suction. The biggest thing to look at is the freezing temp. I'm guessing you currently have the Green Rain-x Bug stuff? It freezes at 32*, so I'd look to have it out before sustained freezing temps. The Winter (orange) Rain-x also is anti-bug, so I question the need for the green stuff... I'm in the same boat and made that mistake. I usually clean my windshield daily, so it won't take me long to work through the tank.

Some of us get neither TPMS lights NOR terrible trans tuning. I've NEVER had the light come on; but then, I keep my tires slightly overfilled at 38 psi. Never had a light even with 40* overnight temp swings. Illuminated dash lights, like rust, are a crime.

Towing/hauling safety is only as safe as the skill of the driver. Your truck could drag a 12k pound trailer down an ocean beach if you wanted it to.

Yet my ‘84 is only on its 3rd battery in its life. My ‘86 just received its 4th (after 7 years). Yay for voltage draw.

Depends on voltage need some times. I’m not entirely sold on the variable output alternator. My bmw starts going bat shit crazy if voltage drops below 12.3v, and these trucks are even more technical than the X3 is. Brand new batteries can also be junk. The 3 month old one in my 442 read 0.00 after I did some distributor work. After a charge it load tested fine. HOWEVER the side terminals shows HALF the amps as the top terminals. Internal fault. Sometimes a defective battery can hide for a while, but conditions can bring those defects to a head.

^What is your oil change interval?