16LT4

Considering I towed my Lincoln Continental all through the Green Mountains in a 2k lb trailer with my anemic ‘99 Sierra, you won’t have a problem.

A simple multimeter voltage reading of the battery is almost meaningless (which is probably what they did); apply a load test either with a load tester, or with a multimeter while cranking to get an accurate view. Average lifespan of batteries these days is 3-4 years, 2-6 years are common on both sides of the bell curve.

Newer BMWs I know require a new batter to be registered to the vehicle it’s placed in, or else a year may be all you get from the battery. I’ve never heard of that for the K2 trucks but nothing would surprise me, and an interesting query no doubt.

Followed it up with new front rotors and pads, originals went 73k. I'd mentioned a brake pulse to the dealer when they replaced my spare tire (free), so they replaced the rear pads/shoes/rotors 600 miles ago (free), but unfortunately didn't cure the issue. Rather than deal with going back there twice (drop off and pick up, only 10 miles away), I figured spending the $120 on parts and doing it myself was more economical, and I could be assured the job was done right. Inside pads were worn more than the outside ones, but still double the minimum thickness at 6/32", but were only contacting the rotors with the center 1/2 of the pad due to rust build up on the rotor. As most probably do, the pads were freezing in the shims, preventing proper release. I went with Raybestos rotors and pads, as I'd always had great longevity with that brand on previous vehicles going back to the early '90s. We'll see how long they last; I usually go well over 100k on pads, so they should at least match the factory stuff. The front breaks had never been done, as I had to break through the factory loc-tite on the caliper brackets. It stopped much better than my F150 before, and stops even better now... I've always been far more concerned with the stopping than the going.

Second drain/fill of the transmission (15 minute job, courtesy of my custom pan drain plug! , most of which was letting it drain) in 800 miles. At 73k the trans had never had fluid changed, so I always do more than one as about half the old ATF remains inside. So now, it's got 9 quarts of roughly 13 of fresh ATF in there, including a 10 oz bottle of Lubeguard Red (I always use it in transmissions over 100k, so I figured it'd a good time as my 6 speed shifts flawlessly, and I am to keep it that way). A few days ago, I dropped about .75 quart of oil out of the pan (the dealer seems to have overfilled with the old 8.5 qt capacity) and added a pint of MMO. Every oil change I do to this truck (every 5k) will see a pint of MMO.

Not a huge thing, but vinyl wrapped the front/rear bowties. My white ‘17 Z71 had the black bow tie package and was one of the few things I enjoyed about that truck, so I figured I’d recreate it but refused to buy actual bow ties.

I have 73k, bought 800 miles ago. Within a week I replaced diff, transfer case, and trans fluids/filter. Original trans fluid was brown, but not burnt. Magnet didn’t have any more shavings than I’d expect at my mileage. I personally won’t do a true flush (reverse, or with cleaning agent) and don’t feel like disconnecting the cooler lines to pump out/in, especially with that mileage; however, I do a slow mix-over by draining/filling every few hundred miles for 1000 miles or so, and get the fluid cherry red again. It’s not a perfectly complete fluid swap but close. I’ve rehabbed 150k mile transmissions with metal mountains on their magnets this way with great results, so that’s what I’ll be doing. I did drill a hole in my pan and weld a home-made castle nut inside to accept a drain plug, though, because the exhaust is a PIA.

Your back end is most likely fishtailing because the contact patch of the outboard tire is being reduced from the tire leaving the road for milliseconds, which is classic for bad shocks. Tires only work when they're touching the ground. Did you inspect the shocks for oil leakage? My stock '17 Z71 did the exact same thing where my lifted F150 on Billsteins did it less, and my '16 Silverado non-Z-71 doesn't do it at all, all on the exact same broken pavement on a turn. Both Chevies were/are on factory tires, factory shocks, with the '16 having 73k on factory shocks, where as the Z-71 did it with under 100 miles on the truck. You've stated repeatedly that your larger tires, at that pressure, were run for the past 2 summers without issue. This points to it NOT being a tire problem. Switching back to winter tires will not be the smoking gun for the tires because you there are more variables at play: tire AND pressure. If IIRC, your winter set is simply the stock set, which will hide bad shocks better than larger, higher PSI tires. Said another way, you're noticing the issue now as your summer tires exacerbate the issue, rather than cause the issue. Their wear/condition didn't change while in storage, however your shocks survived another Long Island winter and accumulated wear accordingly. Cold temperatures, large temperature swings, and the abuse from erupted LIE potholes all contributed to accelerating shock wear. I bent a wheel in my Jetta last winter from an unseen pothole near the Sag for the first time in my life.

First experience with the dealer's service department was a positive one! I've only had one other dealer in my life that I've had positive experiences with, and that is the BMW dealer I purchased my X3 from. Not only coffee, but hero sandwiches in the waiting room, free loaners (even for non-warranty work), shuttles, vehicle pick-up/drop offs, free parts/services, etc. Step into my last '17 Chevy or '14 Ram dealership from the BMW place and I could instantly sense them eyeing me like a piece of meat with the assumption that I'm a complete moron and will fall for their "advice", rather than treated with respect. But I digress... the current dealer I got this '16 from was up there on the respect scale. They ended up keeping the vehicle an extra day, but I'd rather have them do it right, than take it back. Barton's Chevrolet in Newburgh for anyone in the lower Hudson Valley, NY area. And no, I'm not affiliated with them in anyway, but accolades should be mentioned as much as negative reviews. Following work was performed, all at no cost to me: 1) removed acorn from HVAC blower fan; now even on high its quiet like it should be. 2) replaced back-up camera (image was hazy/foggy). 3) replaced the bushing that gives the slow lowering to the tailgate. It drops a little slower, but still not as slow as others I've seen. Looks like if I take the tailgate off and punch the bracket inward to add more friction to the bushing, it'll be better, but I'm not going to take it back for 5 minutes of my time. I'll saving my annoying money-wasters for more important times. 4) brand spanking new spare tire. old one was worn. 5) I noticed a brake pedal pulse from a warped rotor, so I brought that to their attention. At first they cut the rear rotors, but then the tech wasn't happy with the thickness (I was told they were close to minimum, but not exceeding it), so they put on new rear rotors, pads, and parking brake shoes. There still is a slight pulse, no where near as much as before, but the fronts have no lip and sufficient pad thickness, so I'll wait to take it back to see if it clears up. I've had the rotors warp and then unwarp on my BMW in the winter, when the extreme temperature swings (-20*F to however many hundreds of degrees the rotors get during hard stops), and this truck was traded in in March. Additionally the PO could have been one of those people that comes to a full stop and then sits there cooking the pads onto the rotors, leaving material behind that then registers like a warped rotor. I also roll forward a few feet after stopping, and stop again to prevent that.

Here's my black on brown. Other than some practical items, not doing much for mods on this truck (yet)... once winter comes and I need tires, wheels and tires will be installed. Unlike my Ford, no level/lift or anything that will affect reliability or fuel mileage. I'm in upstate NY and the truck will see 2 trips a year to OBX, a trip to Norfolk, and 3-4 trips to the FL keys every year, along with a trip once a month on average to the Hamptons. Your truck is an twin to my '17 Z71, including the black bowties. I also transferred the wheel cover and neoprene seat covers (the truck will see a lot of wet bathing suits and dive time, and the heated seats come through just fine if delayed), and of course the all-important hitch cover that advertises "this is a fun truck, driven by a fun guy, going to fun places!" (clearly tongue-in-cheek)

Awesome, thanks... I've had "bolt on" items in the past whose bolt holes didn't match. I hate dealing with that...

^ Does that rear diff cover have a drain plug, and if so: 1) what kind is it? (G2 a brand or logo?) and 2) how is the fitment quality? I would not be opposed to an aftermarket cover with drain plug (probably larger capacity) and cooling fins in 30k the next time I change the fluid.

^I installed the same thing, but in black, on my Autumn Bronze Metallic truck... when I ordered, I thought it would stick up higher like a normal Bugflector, but it's growing in me. I was mostly was looking for stone chip protection in the NE anyway... one winter on my new '17 Z71 had sandblasted hundreds of pits in its painted front fascia and leading hood edge.

Thanks. Make no mistake, after the warranty expires, I'll be doing every repair the same as every other thing on my property, but in the meantime, I'm enjoying not having to fix (gives me more time to do other jobs... I'm about to gut the master bath down to studs for a complete redo, rip up the main floor carpet and kitchen floor for tile and hardwood, need to jackhammer out the cracking concrete walk in the back and pour a new one, and build an attached lean-to/carport to my barn for the tractors and related equipment). Rain barrels are required for all the fruit and evergreen trees, I have a barrel under every gutter downspout on the house and barn, turning both structures into giant catch basins. Why waste the water and run the water pump to irrigate? Also not having had an electric bill despite using electric heaters in winter (saving oil) and the central AC in summer is nice. 8 years is the break-even point with NY energy costs (at current yearly rate of increase) and when I retire and sell in 30 years, I'll have saved at least $43k even taking into account loss of efficiency. So much win. *in a few weeks when we move away for the summer, the Olds will go back in the garage and the GMC into the barn where they belong, as the wife and I will both have our vehicles with us.

Good point, forgot about those. I'm perfectly fine without them, and bypassing if needed. Nothing I own has ever been tapped in over 30 years, so that isn't really a concern for me; don't misunderstand, I fully agree with the added complexity and increased costs of repair, I just don't need it. The only reason I got the '16 is because I needed a CC that was rust free (I'm personally not a fan of doing body work and loathe painting), and being in salt country, my options were limited. It's easier to prevent rust or failure than it is to fix it.

My dealer immediately agreed that the backup camera image on my '16 was hazy, and ordered a new camera which is being installed as I type this. No charge. Gotta love warranty!

All depends on what goes wrong; I do everything myself so labor cost isn't an issue. I have the dealer software for my '08 X3 on my 2008 laptop, so coding/resets aren't a problem, I'll do the same for the truck if needed. I don't need "fluffy" conveniences like touchscreens or BT functioning, just the drivetrain. Sensors and modules can be easily replaced. My '80s junk is still running original (mediocre) ECM with its vast array of sensors on an engine 10 years older than the computer (that was never computerized to begin with) with no issues. We'll see how this truck goes. I'm not opposed to installing a stand-alone engine management system or even going carb if needed. Time will tell.

Most of the fleet (the '84 is hooked up to a trailer in the back). Excluding my bike, the driveway is 60% GM.

I don't do new, let someone else eat the depreciation. PIcked up my lightly used CPO '16 CC LT 4x4 for $24k with warranty until 2022. I have this truck, my X3, and $10k leftover for what the same truck, in '18/19, would cost. I also don't replace every couple of years, I still rotate my '84 GMC and '86 442 in the daily driving mix to spread the 35k miles I do a year.

But then he'd have to raise the volume if receiving a phone call (if even using that feature), no?

Welcome to the club, that's how they do. Other than developing a taste in music, perhaps you could set it to some media that you don't have (like BT pairing with a phone, or satellite?) so that you don't get any sound, but have screen functionality, as the truck should default to its last selected media device?

Dropped the truck off at the dealer yesterday (yes, taking a vehicle to any shop especially a dealer is against my religion, but the reason I moved from my '04 F150 FX4 to this '16 CC LT is for the warranty) to have them address a few items: 1) replacing the bald spare tire 2) new lens for the backup camera (hazy/foggy image) 3) new spring/rod/whatever is needed for the tailgate (slow-easy lower is neither slow nor easy) 4) pulsing brakes coming down from highway speed/heavy stops (warped rotors... 73k on them methinks). 5) reset the anti-pinch on the driver's auto-up window (72 hour reset procedure was met with failure; worked on my '17) 6) loud HVAC blower (possibly a leaf caught in it) Got home from the dealer and realized I'd left my work keys on the keychain for my truck at the dealer; my dealer has an indoor service bay drop off, just pull through the big garage doors with the vehicle, so I decided to take my 442 back to get the keys (in the rain). Dropped a few service dept jaws when I pulled it inside, I guess pulling a carbed car into a GM dealer in 2019 is a rare occurrence. Couldn't resist blipping the throttle a few times once inside just to hear the echo... caused a couple of salesman to come out and one to say "Hi, yes we'd love to take that in trade!" That car hasn't seen the inside of a dealer service bay in decades... but seems to have helped foster a better working relationship with the service department. A good relationship results in better service, free parts, and added "no-charge" labor, it's all about greasing the right wheels. Edit: every single item covered by warranty. I could get used to this "not having to crawl under the truck every week to fix something" like I did my F150. It's rare to find a dealer that not only acknowledges the items I've addressed, but actively works to make them right.

A bed cap being called a topper makes me cringe almost as much as soda being called "pop" or a hero (sandwich) being called a "sub" or worse, a "grinder." That being said I see clean ones on craiglist all the time in the $300-500 range. Was going to sell the Leer for my '04 F150 privately, but let it go with the truck as the buyer paid full asking price for the truck.

I'm not paying for warranty work. ;) Find, program yadda yadda... just more of a hassle I'd prefer to not deal with, like computers in general. But then again, 2 of my daily drivers are old enough to have separate door and ignition keys, and require setting the choke before starting... the less tech, the better.