16LT4

Keep a couple of dryer sheets in the cab and under the hood.

I had the same thing happen a few years ago to my home stereo when I was living in a 300 yr old house. Power off, even unplugged a speaker and held it in my hand. Didn’t hear music though just staticky voices that sounded like they were telling me I was going to die. I assumed it was radio interference because I’m still alive, as far as I can tell. Though no one i meet ever seems to acknowledge me...

I did that once, and it caused more of an uproar than if I’d called their children fugly. My ‘14 Ram was way better than my ‘17 Silverado. Far better ride (coil springs), interior quality, essentially the same fuel economy, the awesome 8 speed ZF, more power than the 5.3. Had the same Chevy shake though. Went to an f150 that I spent on average $300 a month in parts and my time to maintain; yeah, had to rebuild the infamous 5.4 timing system in my garage over thanksgiving, 4x4 IWEs, 4 hours to do the plugs and COPs... the most simple task was a huge PIA. Back in a ‘16 Silverado LT now which isn’t as “nice” as my Ram Laramie, but rides just as good, and is worlds better than the ‘17 or the Ford. I try to not be brand loyal, but don’t think there’s been a year since the 70s when there hasnt been a GM in my family’s driveway... my current count is 3 at my house.

I’ve heard rumors of this but mine must be the outliers.

OMG nature ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh save me!

Every vehicle ever made has ample ways for vermin and pests to enter. They're right, it's not the manufacturer's problem. Don't park in a field or in a forest and leave unattended for long periods of time. Add a cat for mice. Or rat poison. Or traps. I'd rather have mice problems than tweaker problems, those are far messier and public to deal with properly.

Of course Ram has a great trans, its a ZF that they put in most every high end Euro car sold today. It' a solid trans; we have ZFs behind the 1000 ci I-6s and 2000 ci V12s at work, and they're awesome. I had a only single complaint on my '14 Ram Laramie CC, and it wasn't the drivetrain, it was the highway vibration endemic to most every overly-stiff 1500 truck made today. With a 3.92 towing rear, it still got 21 mpg on a couple trips NY-OBX and back, only 1 mpg less than my '17 Silverado DC that I tossed within 6 month of buying brand new. Junk. (Edit: I love my '16, it's a completely different truck in every sense of it). If the Ram didn't have a highway vibration, I'd still have it; of all the guys with work trucks I know, Rams have the lowest maintenance; I still know plenty running around in 90s gen 318 and 360 trucks, one has almost 400k by now on original drivetrain. I had to yank the cams to redo the entire timing system in my '04 F150 last winter at only 150k... yeah they all have problems, just pick and choose which problems you'd rather have to fix. The new HD GMs now have a new engine, with AFM for the first time, so there' sure to be learning curves with them. The old bulletproof 6.0 is gone. This should be interesting. I can't bring myself to look at them longer than a few seconds, they're the most hideous things I've ever seen next to the Aztec. I guess they never fired those designers, just promoted them... what is it with Chevy's obsession with this Gotham-city Batman cartoon design shtick they've been doing for the last decade?

Dealer did the recall update, tire rotation done to torque spec (I checked), wash, coffee and water. $0 and an hour of my time, I have no complaints. Didn't have an issue before, but free is for me!

Don’t forget the fully boxed frames rust from the inside out. I hose out the underside of my truck every couple of weeks or immediately after driving on wet salt roads in upstate NY and even my ‘84 has no rust on the frame, doors, or fenders...or anywhere actually. Can’t hose out the inside of the frame though... my last F150 needed a frame patch, as the rust ate through the undercoating from the inside and lifted it.

I never mentioned college? I seldom let a “trained professional” do any work for me because it’ll always be more work for me to fix their mistakes. Some lackey moron touching my truck is asking for trouble; I know I’ll have to retorque my lugs when I get home, but at least the dealer has more to lose if something goes wrong, and my lift is occupied.

Who the heck is that and why would I trust a high school drop out to touch my truck? Dealer provides 2 free rotations, so if convenient I’ll do them. I can rotate them for free too and do on my other 4, but the recall is the final impetus to drag myself the 5 miles down there to the dealer.

Just checked my app and saw I'm on the lucky list for affected VINs. Taking it in for the reprogram on Tuesday, a free inspection, free tire rotation, free coffee, and other free stuff I'll wrangle from the dealer. With my maintenance schedule I'm not overly concerned with a failure, but mostly its a good excuse for me to get that free rotation.

The DIC drops quickly because when idling it's getting 0 mpg; the DIC shows a distance-rate usage, not a time-rate usage. This is why start-stop tech is becoming more and more prevalent to eek out every last mpg for the EPA. As mentioned above, just shut if off. Idling is HORRIBLE for an engine.

It's not going to run any different with a F-C filter in it; just because there's F-C filter in it doesn't mean it's not filtering (that's the company that own Ferrari and Alfa, I may actually prefer one of their filters over an AC Delco, just sayin). The issue/question is why it's there in the first place... perhaps instead of pages of speculation you call the dealer and ask them why?

Then they simply used whatever brand filter was cheapest. Who knows why at that point. When I bought men e83 I discovered 2 years later that the cabin air filter was missing.

I meant that more rhetorically, but was it an actual Chevy dealer? An auto mall sounds anything but. And if not an actual Chevy dealer, that begs the question how said dealer got it with only a few hundred miles on it. I don’t mean to sound accusatory but i can’t help but think that some crucial piece of information is missing.

Where did you buy this truck? Was it an auction truck, or did the dealer family also sell F-C?

1) how are you sure the transfer case has gear oil in it? 2) even if only 30k miles, it's due for a change. Change it pronto. 3) it takes Dex 6.

Braver than me... glad it made it, but there's far too much to deal with after the fact to make it worthwhile (fluid changes, new bearings, etc). Electronics don't like being underwater, hopefully random problems don't start popping up in a few months when corrosion really sets in.

72K on all pads/rotors on my '16, all rotors warped. However, I didn't buy the truck until 72k, so I'm guessing the PO used the brakes often. I've also seen threads here of guys needing pads by 40k. Brake longevity comes down to driving style for the most part; the more times you touch the brake pedal, the faster they wear. I replaced the front pads with Raybestos semi-ceramic; they stop awesome and produce almost no dust, but do make a squeal when cold.

Sorry forgot to clarify... the N20 issues don't pertain to your vehicle; the N55 (if you got the 6, which is better than the 8 ) is a pretty bullet proof design. But like anything else but even more-so with the Roundel, following factory service schedule will result in a world of hurt if kept longer than 100k miles (I'm over half-way in my 300k mile minimum goal on my E83). Back when mine was under warranty, BMW service was exceptional; they bent over backwards to ensure a happy customer, unlike the Chevy and Ram dealerships who didn't even try to hide bending you over. I've gotten many free parts/services from the BMW dealer, even long after my warranty expired in 2014.

The first line of this post is very accurate. Do some quick googling on "N20 timing chain failures." That engine would straight up eat its chain, yet took a while for a problem to be acknowledged. I'm not dogging the Roundel, as I've had one in my driveway for 8 years and don't see any reason to change that, but I wouldn't touch a vehicle with that boat anchor of an engine. All traded companies have fiduciary responsibility to the shareholders, and must maximize profits; they have little choice in the matter. Spend much time on any vehicle/tractor/widget forum, and you'll quickly develop a case of vehicle/tractor/widget hypochondria, myself included. Now I don't worry about it; I drive it, maintain it, and live with minor issues.

If you buy a 5k mile used truck you'll get a 100k mile powertrain. I bought my '16 with '72k, and got an additional 100k warranty as part of the package. I'm also completely sure I'll never have a drivetrain issue. AFM issues are overrated.

Met up with some friends from NY (total coincidence) in Corolla, NC. We had a 4 car caravan rolling down the beach, 3 from NY and one from SC. None of them had ever driven a beach before, and were quite glad they heeded my advice to air down.

While i completely agree with Grumpy, for those who’s aren’t testing their case strength, add a bottle of Libeguard Red to you trans and you’ll see problems go away. That and changing every 30k like ya should be doing.