16LT4

With 4-5k logged miles since the pill-flip, mark me down for another that saw not only cooler overall temperatures, but quicker warm up, as well. I run an external ATF cooler on my 442 which completely bypasses the radiator's heat exchanger (so no liquid-liquid heat transfer), and that "weak" 2004-r has survived at least 140k miles of abuse behind a series of engines larger and stronger than the stock motor. Still shifts better than any 6L-90, too.

Where are you located that the HOV laws require every seatbelt to be filled? I've driven through a dozen different states and their respective HOV lanes, and every one simply required at least one passenger. Would removal of a seatbelt not come with its own legal issues, as well, being a safety and federally required item?

During the day, with the lights off, the dash will glow to maximum regardless of the dial. At night, rotate the dial to what is comfortable; I leave mine all the way reduced. Never touch it again. Day will be bright, and as soon as the headlights automatically turn on, the dash will dim.

Yes it is. A tank of E85 would last 300 miles, E10 would go 400 miles over the same commutes, but the cost/mile on E85 was still less when I was filling up E85 for half the price over the summer. Now with E85 being more expensive than 87, I'm not going to pay more for less mileage.

Now that the cold weather is upon me, and E85 shot up a dollar/gallon in the last week, it's time to switch back to E10; I don't like stressing the starter on prolonged E85 starts once the temperature dips below 50*F. My regular commute with several stop signs and a half dozen lights coupled with no sustained cruises longer than a few miles saw in the low 12mpgs on E85 during the last couple of months; it is hardly scientific, but with 89 octane (with the tank being E27 from residual fuel on today's fill-up), my trip MPG (reset at every fill-up) went from 12.5 to 15.1 after 11 miles, which consists of driving the same roads I always do. Lifetime fuel efficiency has dropped to 28.7 mpg from 30.7 mpg over the last few months of E85 commutes and short-distance towing/hauling.

I've never bought into "CAI's", especially considering stock intake does induct cold air. However, looking at the intake's baffles and the air box restriction, I ordered the Airaid MIT and completed the "airbox mod" the other day. Now that we've replaced my wife's 135k mile Jetta with a new, 12 mile Pacifica, I don't feel bad about doing some subtle mods to the truck; 1.5" level and some exhaust work will follow. Anecdotal observations after the intake work: 1) the truck seems to have a little more throttle response, though is likely to not be visible on a dyno. It feels like the engine responds quicker to throttle input with less hesitation, which is expected with less intake restriction. My seat dyno is not calibrated, and it could be aural because 2) beyond 1/4 throttle (via pedal motion) there is some definite intake roar. Nothing annoying or droaning, but certainly audible; this should make sense, as I've removed the factory intake baffles that exist to quiet intake sound. 3) while my seat dyno isn't well calibrated for quantitative power data, it is pretty well calibrated for qualitative vibration data. My '16 CCSB never had what has been characterized as the "chevy chuggle", speed vibrations, or shifting issues (I am a bit familiar with those, having had a new '17 DCSB Z71 that had all 3 and left my ownership by 12k odometer miles), but did shift and drive about as smooth as a K2 with a 6 speed possibly can. My biggest surprise is with how much smoother both power deliver and shifts are now by comparison. Shifts are quicker and firmer, and so far is more difficult to "confuse" the transmission's shift logic. Say what you will about Dodge, but their ZF 8 speed is perhaps the best transmission out there right now; my 6 speed feels more like driving a ZF in my '14 Laramie than a GM trans (minus the 2 gears). My hypothesis is that smoother airflow is more consistent airflow, which leads to a smoother CKP signal to the TCM, resulting in smoother transmission operation. Regardless of power gains, the better shifting alone was worth the mod. How much is due to the airbox mod vs. the MIT? No idea, I didn't to them separately. And, if nothing else, I can visibly see the front of the engine and its drivebelt now during oil change inspections; I had my oil pressure sensor replaced in July under warranty, but have no idea how long it was leaking due to difficulty in seeing the area beneath/behind the factory box.

Dragging my station car 200 miles to use when down on LI for work. I’d dropped the engine in April due to a slight overheat, wound up installing larger pistons, cylinders (1584-1660 CC) and generally rebuilding/replacing everything from the case-out. First oil change after 5-7 miles of ring break-in, adjust valves, carb and timing. Good to go.

Good looking new truck. I would have preferred the Diesel too but beggars can’t be choosers. My neighbor has one and takes it from Hudson Valley to Rhode Island and back every week on less than a tank of fuel. I forget if you’d said your truck was 4x4 or not, but if so, remember you would have had to regear two differentials not just one. And now you get a new truck too. What differentials are in the new truck, and what is the payload/towing capacity of the new stuff?

This past week, I towed my light boat 200 miles (including across NYC) and didn’t notice temp exceeding 145*F. Speeds stayed under 70 mph. If anything, flipping the pill seems to result an extra cooling; my 2004 F150 usually ran 165*F.

While getting ready for a night dive, realized a proper photo op. Key Largo, FL.

I flipped mine 1700 miles ago, and last week drove the truck straight through from upstate NY to the Treasure Coast FL, cruise control set to 75 and then 85 towards GA to make up for lost time in SC. Checking temps every few hours showed the temp never exceed 151*F.

Today's low vehicle supply not-with-standing, $17k for a nearly 200k mile 2wd truck seems crazy. If this is being financed, you'll likely be paying it off long after the vehicle has reached its end of life. It *looks* nice, but looks can be deceiving; my friend started a simple tune-up on a customer's '75 Beetle Convertible with perfect paint that turned into a full blown restoration after he found that the heater channels were 2x4s glassed into place, and the "new" floor pans weren't even riveted into place, they were siliconed! At that mileage, you're looking at wear on every moving part: engine, transmission, axles, differential, suspension... so you'd better plan to have several grand on the side for immediate repairs. For perspective, I purchased my 2016 over 2 years ago as a CPO for $24.5k with 70k miles. KBB puts that truck between $10-14.5k. Closer to 10 seems more accurate, I've seen 4x4 trucks with half the mileage (of all brands) on CL in that price range. Do you *need* a full size truck, or will a mid-size do the job? You may or may not be able to find one in that size for cheaper; unless you need the tow capacity of a full-size, a mid-size is a much more convenient truck to drive/park every day IMO.

That looks about the same location that I installed mine.

You’d never see the pay back converting your newish truck to electric. I’ll keep electricity for my power tools lightbulbs; every time I hop in a vehicle I drive 400 miles or more, so gasoline is it. When the grid fails, or power is out due to storms, i won’t be left SOL; with points on some of my vehicles, they’ll always run regardless of the grid or EMP blast. Until production, distribution and reliability of electricity is drastically elevated, Id think twice about putting all eggs in that basket. My power went out twice in the last week for a day each time due to storms, which won’t be getting better. JMO.

Yes. Hence my drain and fill taking 45 minutes less than yours, and in the comfort of my driveway.

Bug rebuild is in a holding pattern awaiting a clutch cable so I used today to get the truck ready for its bi-annual coastwise trip. new tires courtesy of dealer. Pirelli Scorpions. 5 quarts of ATF, a 10 Oz bottle of Lubegard red and a new trans pan drain plug. new front diff fluid, Valvoline 75w-90 full synthetic. Those new squeeze bottles are a game changer! new rear differential fluid. I’m an ardent support of draining to remove any settled debris, but that unfortunely requires removal of the cover which I wasn’t in the mood to do. So I used my extraction tool (bent piece of hard line with rubber hose in each end) for my BMW (rear diff has no drain NOR removable cover) to use my pump to start the flow, and then let it syphon while I did the trans. same fluid as front went back in. Then wash/wax/polish so my girl can be the envy of every cracker at an I-95 truck stop.

Despite the mileage, the fluid came out darker than expected. I also replaced the drain plug as its gasket was flattened and hardened. It took 5 quarts of Redline D6 and a 10 Oz bottle of Lubegard red; I wouldn’t run a transmission without that.

I'll be doing this on my '17 6 speed today in anticipation of a trip NY-Key Largo next week. Not going to pull the pan for filter, though; just remove the drain plug in the stock pan, drain out the fluid, and then pour in the ~6 quarts of new Redline D6 with a half bottle of Lubegard Red. The fluid change is a 10-15 minute ordeal. The fluid was last changed about 14k miles ago. I recently "flipped the pill" so even with the short OCI, the fluid has been heated. In my manual on the 6L45, GM lists the ATF replacement at 45k, or as little as 15k miles under "Extreme" conditions; I'm assuming the same holds true for the 6L90. That transmission runs about 20*F cooler than the 6L90, too. It is interesting that the manual specifically calls out "stop and go" driving" as extreme. I'm not familiar with the 8 speed. So, I agree with the above posters; there's no viable reason not to change the fluid, other than risk of fluid contamination.

I dropped mine off at the dealer a week ago for new tires, alignment, brake fluid flush, an oil leak, and to verify operation of the thermostat and check for radiator leakage. Why dealer? Pirelli Scorpion all terrains cheaper than Tirerack, $30 off the alignment, I hate brake fluid flushing, and warranty. I then left and drove 500 miles away for a week; I’ll pick it up tomorrow on my way back to NY from OBX, then stop at Advance for some tune up items for the ‘84 GMC. Just what I’ll feel like doing after 500 miles in the saddle. I still have 2000 miles but a month left on the oil, so I’m opting to take it instead of my X3 back down to KL in a week and bringing a boat and a bunch of dive gear back to NY. I can’t see loosing $24 (2000 miles) of Rotella oil. Easier to sleep in the truck if needed during the drive too.

Well sure it is. I can’t get to FL, OBX or Norfolk without spending a few minutes in DE. Lack of state sales tax also makes it a destination for purchasing big ticket items, like generators and outboard engines.

Bought this one for $96 two years ago. It's a plastic tub, there's not much to "love" or "hate" about it; it is what it is. I searched for the cheapest one I could find, no need to over pay for glorified tupperware. https://www.ebay.com/itm/113385877464

93k miles on my original bearings, still silent and smooth. I run stock size wheels, tires and ride height though, avoid potholes in the road, and slow down to a crawl over speed bumps, though.

I did just that with thermostat yesterday, after changing the transfer case fluid. With 20k miles on the fluid (full synthetic Dex 6), the fluid came out dark with some metal on the drain plug. With a lack of cooling fins on the transfer case, I wouldn't doubt that the higher stock transmission temperatures lead to excessive heat soak to the transfer case; I'd neglected to take temperature readings of the case before and after, so at this point, that idea is completely hypothetical. I replace transfer case fluid every 20k miles on everything I have with one, and used Redline Dex 6 this time around and am not worry about the case, but was surprised with the condition of the fluid. I can count on one hand the amount of times the truck has been out of 2wd in that time frame; I don't even use 4x4 on the beaches of the OBX.

Have you tried recalibrating the end-stops using standard procure of holding the window buttons all the way down until the window drops all the way down, and then pulling the button all the way up until the window is closed? I need to do that on my VW and BMW every time I disconnect the battery.

You can always drill, tap, and add Zercs for a lifetime of serviceability. I just did this on all the new ball joints and tie rod ends for my '70 Beetle when I rebuilt the front beam.