swathdiver

2000 miles too long IMO. Dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy. You ever take a sample out at 1K miles and run it through your fingers? How about at 4K, 5K and 7K miles? Is the Castrol Edge Dexos1 certified?

Allow you to feel more engine vibrations such as when AFM kicks in and out. The mounts are fluid filled and last about 8 years or so. Do you mean the motor was cruising along in V4 and then you stepped on it and it took more than a second to light off the other four cylinders? If yours were mine, I would put my Tech-2 on it and see what's going on with the AFM VLOM solenoids. When these fail or slow down and get out of time, they take out the lifters which can lead to bigger problems. Anytime repairs are made in this area, it is SOP to replace the VLOM and all of the lifter trays. Happen to be in Florida?

Take it to Precision in Amarillo. https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission Richard knows them backwards and forwards.

Get a Tech-2 man, it'll pay for itself after the first repair, whatever it might be. But if you must, the Foseal adapters work with the Torque Pro app for Android. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MB8XH6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My daughter uses this one with her Apple phone: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077F8F6TB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's normal operation. It's not really random, certain parameters are met allowing it to turn on and then off. If you feel it, it's probably time for a new driver's side engine mount. Dirty old oil is AFMs worst enemy, keep it clean and fresh and the system is quite reliable.

About a month if there is nothing plugged into any outlets. After you get home, buy a Battery Tender to avoid this. Check and see if the app allows you to start the car remotely more than twice. That's all I can do with my fobs before a key in the ignition start is required.

It is with a lot of fabrication for the rear, not so much needed for the front. You can use semi-floater 9.5" for the rear and if you get the right one, it will bolt right up.

Time for a hub.

If the outside linkage is still good and attached, you can drop the pan and check the connections on the inside. Would be nice to put a Tech-2 on it and see what it's doing. You can go to youtube and watch Precision Transmission's tear down videos on the 6L80 (other have good videos too) and see how the shift linkage inside is supposed to connect. You can rebuild the solenoids in the TECHM on your kitchen table for about $110 plus fluids; if that is the problem.

Who do you know with a Tech-2 or other bi-directional scan tool that can read BCM codes and test out the receiver? If it is not working, there will be internal codes as to why. On my type and generation truck, this information is in the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver RCDLR. A new one has to be programmed to the truck.

You doing this on the cheap or the right way? Do the struts use longer shocks or do they have those strut spacers that provide the extra height? Is your front crossmember cut for the lowering bracket?

With an Extended Cab, you can put a car seat up front and there is a keyed switch in the glove box to disable the airbags but the CC is much more convenient and mom doesn't have to ride in the back!

If yours were mine I would data log until the issue replicates and then show it to the dealer/technicians. We had a banging issue with a FWD transmission once. It was the input clutch piston. The tech could not replicate, so we put him in the car and had my wife drive it and before we even pulled onto the road, it was replicated and he knew what it was. His driving style, my driving style could not replicate the issue. MDI2 adapter connected to a laptop running GDS2 software. There are other less expensive options if you research or ask around.

Possible.

Congratulations! Definitely get the CC.

They can do a lot more than people give them credit for. When I think of rock crawling, a sand rail looking rig with giant tires comes to mind. A stock truck can outperform a Suburu. They are used for overlanding and mountain trails all over the country and off-roading and playing in the mud and crossing streams and even sand dunes in the United States and over in Arabia where it's very popular to off-road these. Most of my experience off-road with these comes from the wagons but the drivetrains are identical with different rear suspension. Search YouTube videos for Silverados, Sierras, Avalanches, Tahoes, Yukons, etc. If you desire, get one with the 6.2 motor. No AFM and 403 horsepower. Many All-Terrain Sierras came with 6.2s and they have 3.42 gears. Quite rare, there is a variant with the Max Towing Package, can tow over 10K pounds. This may not be so important for going off-road but they come with a heavier rear spring pack and 3.73 gears. 6.2 pickups run 14s in the quarter too btw stock! Are you looking for an extended cab or a crew cab or a regular cab?

So many counterfeit 41-110s that GM released new part number. Chicom knockoffs have been wrecking engines left and right, don't use them unless bought from dealer, Summit, RockAuto, etc. Lots of Chicom plugs sold on Amazon and ebay.

These old kits show up all the time on Ebay. You will need a subscription at ACDelco's TDS to access the programming and a laptop with the MDI interface and GDS software or an old Tech-2 to program. Dealer should still be able to program if you do the install. A good dealer will install if you provide the kit.

Yes, I was referring to all fuels save for nuclear power. The other fuels generate more emissions than our trucks still. Just like a locomotive or Fleet Boat, imagine if they had a traction motor at each wheel, it would serve as propulsion and a brake. At this point I reckon the generators are too big, heavy, for what they deliver compared to the norm.

Electric are city folk cars. Can't drive one for any real distance without an extensive and long charge. They are bigger polluters, besides the materials, the coal burned to generate their electricity is dirtier than the exhaust from our trucks, so we're actually better for the environment. There is a reason why so many charging stations are in hotel parking lots!

Clean and grease the slides and pins? Did you use the screw that secures the rotor to the hub or was it missing? Next thing to do is check the runout of the rotor on the car with a dial indicator. Sign up for a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY.

Run ACDelco in it for the next couple of oil changes and see what happens. I've been running it for several years now and don't lose a drop of oil unless my wife drives it. She will routinely spin the motor over 5000 rpms, I rarely see 3000!

So when the motor went to 5K, did the transmission shift down to 1st? If so, is normal.

The sensors may have failed or the module in the truck RCDLR Remote Control Door Lock Receiver might have failed. Who do you know with a Tech-2 that can access the internal BCM codes? As Cameron said, try reprogramming them again. Often times the proximity of other sensors at the tire shop messes things up.

It is likely that the RCDLR Remote Control Door Lock Receiver needs replacing and programming. But before you go throwing parts at it, find someone with a Tech-2 to pull the internal BCM codes that are certainly in there because it's not working right. Each module for each door could be faulty as well and only a used one with the same options will work as the new ones must also be programmed to your truck.