swathdiver

Boy, tell us what you really think about the interiors! LOL I like it! hahaha

How much is too much? If the bones are good, there's no limit. But like Grump said, what's the plan man?

Got my wires crossed, was thinking of the GMT900s. If you plan to keep this truck, get a Tech-2, it will pay for itself in no time. If you live near the Treasure Coast of Florida, come on over and we'll check it out.

Probably but why risk it? Use only GM OE lifter trays, the Chicom knock offs destroy engines left and right, seemingly on purpose like their counterfeit spark plugs. It is quite likely that the #6 AFM solenoid has failed in one way or another which caused the lifters to collapse and fail. It is SOP to replace the VLOM anything the AFM system is repaired, same for the lifter trays. I say this knowing the path you are on, it's for the next guy to come along.

Who do you know with a Tech-2 that can pull the internal codes? FYI: When the brake switch fails, the light for the cruise power still lights up. Just not the engaged indicator.

Any work recently done to it? Corvette servos or tuning or someone upping the line pressure? At near 22 years old, I would not be surprised if the cooler(s) are plugged by now. GM dealerships test the flow amounts with the TransFlow machine. Might be time for a new radiator and external transmission cooler.

Realize what you are asking a 16-22 year old truck to do for the next 5-6 years. Can it still haul at maximum loads this old? Do you plan to go through all the components and make them new again, new bushings, seals, etc.? I'd be more inclined to run a 2008-2013 2500 wagon. Better mileage, newer, can haul just as much with 6-speed transmission even though they are rated for under 10K pounds. They are towing beasts.

Don't blame the truck if you have no service history. Issues with the steering system is rare with these trucks. Gotta clean it up and look for a leak, the fluid went somewhere.

Supercharger.

Ok, well, now that coffee has woken my brain, the rhythmic movement won't be the suspension, it will be tires, brakes, axles, u-joints, etc. At 104K miles, that's typically how long the front hubs last. My front ring and pinion has been howling for a while but there's no vibration. So, check the hubs for play/noise, check the rotors and pads, make sure everything is tight and the slides are still working, calipers still floating, etc.

So it's kinda rhythmic would you say while turning? How many miles? Max play for upper and lower ball joints is .5 mm. Max play for inner and outer tie rods is 1 mm. Check bushings for upper and lower control arms, check bushing for sway bar end links and frame mounts too. Front differential is supported by two brackets with 2 bushings in each, the rack and pinion has 2 bushings also that secure it to the frame. Have someone visually look at the tires when you are turning or backing to see if the caster settings are normal. Someone recently complained of a similar issue and it turned out one of his struts was broken and didn't realize it until he was taking it apart. Almost took his head off too.

Why wouldn't they? You are already running a 35 x 12.5 tire, only the offset will be different and likely tuck the tire in reducing the chance of rubbing. Make sure your RC lift specifies a minimum wheel diameter and or offset/backspacing to clear the knuckle. My Zone 6.5 lift works with 18x9 TIS wheels on 35s

Thanks for taking the time to look into the details; makes perfect sense. It is indeed still an "Integrated" trailer brake controller!

Historically, I would agree with you but the OP is saying that the plug for the factory connector is there, plugged into a dummy port to keep it tidy. So if true, the wiring is there. First time I've heard of this with K2s.

If I understand you correctly, you are saying that there is a connector for the ITBC plugged into a dummy connector inside the dash. If this is so, then it stands to reason that the wiring is present to also add the brains of the system and once connected, programmed to make it functional. You might want to go to GM's Upfitter's website and download the electrical guide to the K2s, the copy I have is for 2016s and while I've looked, I see nothing definitive but my eyes are shot and cannot keep looking.

I think the K2s have that wired up already and ready to go. The old 900s had it stowed away.

One of the benefits of synthetics is that they break up the sludge build up inside your motor. One of the downsides of synthetic is that they break up the sludge build up inside your motor.

Late 2009 Crew Cabs go the 6-speeds first. Only the Denalis had them from the get go.

Change all of the fluid to the new recommended fluid for your truck. Put your VIN in here and have a look: https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/catalog/catalog_search.php If that does not fix the issue, replace the torque converter.

They'll fit and you will have to do some trimming for full turns. Stock offset will keep them tucked in unless you space them out. If you do, use hub centric spacers, some dude recently lost a wheel because his were not and the wheel studs finally gave way. Here is ours, Zone 6.5 lift on TIS 18x9 wheels with 35x12.50 Nittos

That was the shotgun approach and you missed. There are other sensors in the doors and a computer that handles everything. Who do you know with a Tech-2 that can pull the codes? There's no resetting the light without fixing it. Now, if you replaced a bad sensor, you have to cycle the key or turn the car on and it will go away after a minute or so. That happened to me when I replaced one of mine last month and just remembered. Happen to live in Florida?

Required Reading: https://www.sonnax.com/units/520-6l80-6l90-jmbx-multi-plate-performance-converter Required Watching: https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission You fellas with the K2s sure suffer needlessly with these transmissions. The older generation doesn't have half your problems which are almost all attributed to the increased temperatures because of the stupid thermostat they put on your trucks.

To program a module yourself, you need to have a laptop running Windows 10 with Icore 7 processor and 64-bits along with the GDS2 software and MDI2 adapter to get it to talk to your truck. Then you need a subscription to ACDelco's TDS system which is $40 for 2 years to program all modules for one VIN. $240 still seem like a lot? On the other hand, one cannot just plug in the factory controller into the dash and get it working. Well, wait a second, is this truck a K2 or a T1? The T1s are plug and play, the K2s have to go aftermarket if memory serves. If my wires are crossed, everything I've learned about folks wanting to add them to their trucks was learned on this here forum.

My take is that he wants to know if the driveshaft turns in 2HI while moving the truck around in his yard. The answer to that is no, the shaft does not turn in 2HI. More importantly, if the CV axles are out, the hubs will be fine for moving the truck around the driveway but will come apart if you drive it down the road. A woman was killed this year when someone drove their RAM without the axle shafts in and a wheel came off on the highway and landed on her roof.

You have to pull the internal trouble codes to begin to solve this without throwing money away. Get a subscription to the shop manual at AllDataDIY so you can use the trouble shooting guide.