swathdiver

What was wrong with the OE brakes? After 13 years mine still stops in under 150 feet from 60. ACDelco also offers:

My eyes won't allow me to read the chart. Did the mechanic use his scan tool to do a parasitic draw test? Should be easy peasy to find with the right tools. If this truck is a keeper, consider getting an MDI2 with GDS2 software on a laptop.

A few years ago a guy joined a forum and said his 6.2 RST Tahoe was getting terrible mileage. He hadn't even gone through the first tank of gas yet! He was getting 7-9 mpg. After some questioning it turned out he lived in a big city, downtown and had a short commute, so he was basically idling everywhere. I mentioned taking it on a little trip out of town for lunch and back, and he did, the mileage was just fine. He got about 20 mpg on that trip.

I like it! Is there still some give inside the collapsed lifter like a stock one or is it now more like a solid lifter?

Those 12.5 inch wide tires are killing you. My daughter's lifted Sierra with 35 x 12.5s gets about 10 mpgs around town, if the tires were not as wide it would be better. Would be better if she slowed down too! Why not do a compression test? Make sure the motor is healthy, inspect the plugs too. I have a Tech-2 for the fleet so we can keep tabs on everything going on inside the computers and motors and transmissions, etc.

That's the nice thing about lots of transmission gears, you can run a truck like it was equipped with 4.10s by shifting to 5th or 6th instead of running around in 10th. Yep, agree all the way. Heck, still nice even in the 6-speeds over the old 4-speeds!

So does that take into account your work commute? If so, I'd say that's pretty on par if a little low for a lifted truck on 33s.

Only if they have the same engine power. Torque at the differential is calculated as using engine torque times the final drive ratio (transmission ratio x axle ratio). So since the 6.2 makes more power, it puts down more torque at the same rpms. Force at both wheels is calculated by dividing differential torque by tire radius. The LC9 puts down 689 foot pounds of torque at the differential in 6th gear at 2000 rpms. The L9H puts down 980 foot pounds of torque at the differential in 6th gear at 2000 rpms. Both vehicles with same driveline in this example, just different engines. The 5.3 puts down 45 Newtons of force at 2000 rpms in 6th gear. The 6.2 puts down 64 Newtons, again both have the exact same driveline in this example. My calculator has not been reviewed, if I'm wrong, I'm all ears, show me.

I don't think so. I've made a calculator to look at the differences. The first is my LC9 with 3.42 gears, then with 3.73s compared to our Sierra with 3.73s which has a 6.2 motor.

Foot ponds of torque and force in newtons at the wheels does indeed both come from engine power and gearing. 4.30 gears in my little 5.3 truck will be nearly the same torque at the differential and force in newtons at the wheel as a 2500 6.0 with 3.73 gears.

As the old saying goes, how much do you got to spend and how fast do you want to go? As ASilverBlazer said, there's a bunch of stuff mentioned that contributes little or nothing to performance.

Not so, you can tune for 87 or whatever and still see performance gains, especially in the transmission. A BlackBear tune is not the least expensive way possible but is your best bang for the buck!

Oh yeah, my point was that GM has been doing supercharging (Buick 3800s too) and when they do it from the factory and not through those guys, the price will be much much less.

NOT. More pollutants are generated to acquire the raw materials and re-charging them emits more pollutants into the atmosphere than a car. Meaning, the modern internal combustion engine emits fewer emissions than an oil or coal fired power plant to re-charge an EV. Big Apple family members loved their little hybrids until it was time to replace the batteries. Dumped them for gas powered cars right quick. So much for their "mother earth"! LOL

Lingenfelter and Hennessey have been doing GM full warranted supercharger installs for years on LS and LT engines.

I responded to you in the Silverado/Sierra forum. All those codes seem point to an improperly functioning throttle plate or a bad ECM. Whether the throttle plate is dirty, bound up, or jammed by debris, you'll have to check out. If you plan to keep this, get a Tech-2 and a subscription to the shop manual and trouble shooting guide at AllDataDIY or buy a pdf copy off Ebay from SeriousCTBuyer.

My pleasure sir! Let us know how it works out.

AllDataDIY

Gas cap! Then rear cargo mat and floor mats and so on, about $1300 that first year in accessories.

I'm a DIY kind of guy but LS engines were new to me, so instead of learning the hard way, I paid BlackBear Performance to tune my truck. The transmission tune is my favorite part. My motor is rated for 310 HP and after the tune puts down 307 RWHP through the traps in the quarter mile. The tune is the only mod, still a paper air filter even but did replace the cats and y-pipe with a new aftermarket one. Someday I'll get EFILive or HPTuners and start playing but glad I chose an accomplished expert to start with.

Any news to report?

Volant's CAI can include an air scoop under the bumper to grab cool air, that's the only reason I would get one. Banks also has one with a scoop as well for 2500-3500s. Since our trucks go anywhere, they are not getting a scoop, not scooping up water into the motor!

Number 5. Yes, the lift will have an effect, the cooler transmission temps possibly some, the tune. If you want o measure performance, make only one change at a time. You have three things done at once and performance has suffered. So the easy thing to do is undo the tune and test.

Welcome Rod, stick with GM OE pads, they were going the distance before you interfered. Change the slides or metal things out too. Definitely warped them.

What did you wind up doing?