swathdiver

Ok, heat out of both sides when it fails. Does the air start to come from different locations, floor, dash, etc. too? If so that would be the Mode Actuator. If both actuators are doing this, I would suspect the controller and before throwing money at it, would hook up a Tech-2 and pull the internal BCM codes. They will tell you what failed and why.

Probably, especially if an aftermarket actuator was used. Do you have dual zone climate control? If so, does hot air come out of one side and cold out of the other? Could also be low on freon if both vents are blowing warm air.

Plug your VIN in here to look up all the parts you'll need: https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?#

Check your PMs on here. I sent over a file and an email address. The M365 is the pump that delivers more volume per revolution. The M355 runs at a higher pressure with less volume. 43 psi red spring versus 33 psi with the yellow spring.

Correct, all 6.2 trucks came with rear disc brakes. All 4x4 and RWD trucks have AXN 9.5 semi floater axle and AWD denalis have 8.6" axle. Axle should be direct bolt on, it is for the wagons. May need to reprogram ABS for disc versus drum brake operation and parking brakes are likely different too, don't know.

That little iron block oil pump can't be helping things. It's much smaller than the one you took out, notice the size of the gerotors? The M365 pumps 1/3 more oil per revolution than the iron block pumps at a lower pressure because of the increased tolerances of an aluminum engine. There's a guy on another forum with similar issues and I cannot explain why either of you is having this issue but both of you have the wrong pump in your motors.

We do have an unlimited supply. Communists, Fellow Travelers and Useful Idiots are actively pushing this nonsense. Any serious student of history can expose these farces.

Patience man.

My pleasure sir! In the chart above, the second listing is your stock camshaft. The camshafts under yours are of course a little larger but allow you to retain VVT. If you wish to delete VVT, the L33 Camshaft used in the Generation 3 engines would be the way to go, it's grind is identical to the top listing without AFM, it's part number is 12583623.

Your truck uses the Dexos 1 oil standard, full synthetic. Sometime in 2011 the AFM updates were complete, there was a newly designed VLOM, valve cover on the driver's side to reduce oil consumption, 3rd design De-Ac Lifters and a little shield in the oil pan. We see a lot of these fail early like yours, mine went to 110K, then there are millions of others with 200K miles and counting. GM is fully committed to V8 engines and this cylinder deactivation to make Uncle Same happy, at least for another few years. That kind of money the dealer wanted can buy a new engine with warranty! If you have the LMG engine, get the M355 oil pump. If you have the LC9, get the M365 oil pump. Do not use anybody's lifter trays unless they are GM OE only. The Chicoms have been making some and they are ruining engines as they do not keep the lifters from turning. A lot of companies sell a "stock replacement" camshaft for an AFM motor that is smaller than what was in their originally. Guess it helps to sell their fancy cams. Start moving above 210 degrees duration and the power band moves north, bottom end is lost and gained way up top. Those who get those "mild" cams then put in high stall torque converters and gears to compensate, ruining the street manners of their beloved truck. Here's some reading that might help you out, it did for me: Rebuilding GMs GenIV 5.3 Engine.pdf

Yep, happened to mine too. Cats failed about 10K miles after AFM did. Stick with USA made cats, not no-name Chicom stuff, it barely lasts a year. I put on Magnaflow cats and y-pipe.

Keep an eye on the cats now, that issue could have shortened the life of the one on that bank. Just something to keep in mind.

You did a great job! If ever in Fremont, California and need new gears, I know where to go! LOL

Zero or was he too impatient to answer questions for a thoughtful answer?

Defenders will go everywhere that tire does and still outperform it on the highway and in the rain.

They went back nine years for me and this time I was looking at 7 and 8 year old K2s.

Michelin Defenders all day long for a highway tire. They do surprisingly well off-road too.

I sent in a request and they told me that due to a policy change they don't do it anymore. They would however, sell me the invoice to the selling dealer for $50 which includes the RPO codes.

Guess they figure folks these days ain't as thirsty as they used to be! We didn't have ANY cup holders in 1979!

Yes it will, both sides.

Three usual possibilities: Wheel weight fell off. Tire moved on wheel. Improperly balanced.

These trucks are not designed to charge an AGM battery, sure you can use them just fine, they just will not last long as they could have. Look up TP2, this is the code for a dual battery set up. Batteries draw down separately but are charged together. They ought to be the same. @intheburbs Bill has done a detailed installation how to on other forums that you can easily find for the generation after yours and I think he also had TP2 on his old GMT800 Suburban as well. He's a wealth of information to ask about such things.

They probably didn't run the parasitic draw test.

In my generation truck, you can't just plop in new encoder motors without calibrating them, you have to use a Tech-2. What does your shop manual say?

I'd say you're an excellent candidate for larger brakes front and rear! Wilwood made or makes 16 and 14.25 6-piston setups for the front and 4-piston 14.25 for the rear. Brembo also has or had 4-piston calipers for the rear and 6 and 8 piston calipers for the front. Some of their kits have 2-piece discs, some 1.