swathdiver

I know he has a 5.3 with the HD cooling and 3.08 gears. Try to buy something in the 4000 pound range because by the time it's loaded up you'll be hitting around 6K pounds. These trucks run out of payload usually before running up against their tow rating. Your same truck with 3.42 gears can pull 9600 pounds.

Have a 6.5"lift on the Sierra, the ride is not objectionable at all. It's not stock, but it's not bad and that is on 35" mud tires.

Yes, there are crummy converters being sold as suitable for use when I wouldn't use them as a door stop. Some last a year, some fail right away as the Chicoms don't care about you, just your money. The computer system in these cars also do not take kindly to aftermarket sensors. They are not up to the task either most times. Converters ought not to fail for no reason, there's usually a problem with the engine that takes them out. In my case it was AFM failure. I replaced my cats 4 years ago with Magnaflow cats and y-pipe and no problems since. Having said that, it is not unusual for the codes to set within the first 100 miles or so as they break in.

Try googling the VIN to see if it's connected with the owner, some states allow you to check on their DMV websites. States also sell the data, you'd buy all the VINs and it would come with all of the names and addresses.

30 foot pounds Smitty.

@joeidaho@Another JR @HELPPLEASE@mrmoe Any updates folks?

The extra $20 in parts hurts Mary's bottom line and switch to EVs.

Uncle Sam's incentive for FlexFuel vehicles ended so GM stopped offering it.

The car manufacturers aren't our nannies. We have to use some horse sense here fellas. If you maintain your vehicle and don't cheap out on parts it will be perfectly capable of handling those capacities 15-20 years later or more. As KodiakDenali stated, Tow/Haul isn't even recommended until we hit 75% or more of our GCWR.

Stock offset is 31mm on most GMT900 wheels, especially if you are running 17s or 18s. The less offset, the more clearance issues you will have, especially if you are set on running such a wide wheel. 285-70-17 is a popular choice with stock wheels. Some more fuel efficient choices may be... well let me upload the chart I made a while back for my Yukon. This chart was made for my Yukon, your pickup may handle some of the tires in the green area without trimming or with little in the way of trimming. I spent hours looking at member's photos, you would be wise to do so as well. All is for naught if you choose a wheel with a shallow or negative offset, sticking the tire out past the fender.

Looks like tread separation versus a road hazard. Probably caused by dry rot. Tires in Florida generally speaking have a maximum life of about 4 years regardless of miles. Glad you weren't injured.

Hey, weren't you doing a build over on the Silverado & Sierra forum?

It is not a direct bolt on, plug in and go. I would say no, but exactly which transfer cases are in question here? My brain thinks of the 246 and MP3023 which are electronic.

In that year, there is no separate fuel pump control module. The main computer controls the pump. I don't profess to know everything but twice on '07s I've tried to interact with the fuel pump with a Tech-2 and was not successful. Unplug it or cut it.

Getting hard to find nowadays. I don't like the two piece Dorman units but they may soon be the only game in town.

Curious, I also hear of people paying (registration and taxes) to use their vehicle in a higher weight class and having no problems with the government operating that way.

My Magnaflow cats have been on the truck for 50K miles without issue. If the OP has replaced all these parts and still getting a code, either something is wrong with the engine on that side, or the ECM is bad. These trucks don't take kindly to aftermarket parts, use GM OE or ACDelco Professional/Gold only.

Saw a Class A towing a 3500 with an eight foot bed yesterday. The manual says to put the transfer case in neutral and let her rip. Doesn't say anything about disconnecting the battery that I recall.

Yeah, get the van. It's much easier to load and unload kids and you can get to them too better in an emergency. Don't forget, you can add two more kids to your quiver before needing something bigger!

I've been idling down whatever was driven for near forty years. Think nothing of making that run.

You could have a leaf added to your spring packs or buy ones rated to carry more weight. Even though that little motor is plenty powerful, you don't really want to drive around towing 14,000 pounds. Around town it'll haul more on flat ground but you don't want to be north of town on the Turnpike or drive up to Sugarloaf Mountain! I think the weight limit of the tailgate is around 800 pounds if memory serves, better double check before taking my word for it.

Did you take the throttle body off the intake and clean both sides of it?

We've done that before, it's only temporal. New clear lenses look so nice!

One of the nice things with ethanol is that it is cold, which also helps prevent knocking and pinging. In my old motor, the fuel mixes with the air, reducing the air temperature entering the combustion chamber. A good tuner can increase a car's power burning it and make it just as fuel efficient or nearly so. It's good for a solid 10 horsepower to the rear wheels in the quarter mile in my Gen IV 5.3 engine. For those of you with 5.3 L83s, it's good for about 25 horses and pushes your torque numbers to over 415 foot pounds. Both of my Gen IV engines do not experience what Grumpy's chart above shows. Mine gets better gas mileage with a low mixture of ethanol than straight gasoline and then switches over to the high octane tables when the alcohol content exceeds 31% and is essentially the same all the way up to full strength.

My thoughts are fuel pump and or anti-theft. If this is a GMT900, the NNBS body, it does not have a fuel filter. Who do you know with a Tech-2? That machine can discover the problem pretty quickly.