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I have this too. There’s a ton of room to use the tailgate, works great. Unfortunately it does help me when I use the WD hitch for my travel trailer. I can remember it. But my wife, son, other family member, friend, etc... won’t. So I definitely see the appeal to this solution. I wonder if the manual switch version could be wired up to an upfitter switch.

Couldn’t you just install it with some jbweld?

Thanks.

Where did you get this schematic? I’d lovevto get schematics like this for the whole truck.

Did anyone ever find a fix for this? Mine still does it occasionally. I just try to ignore it. But I would like to get it fixed at some point.

Does the 5th switch always have to be used for snow plow prep? I would like these for adding some auxiliary lighting. I don’t have any need for a snow plow so it would be nice to use that switch for something else.

Just for your reference. The shark fin is not the highest point on these trucks. There are 2 extruded ridges on the roof that are just behind where the sunroof is. The highest point on those ridges is the tallest hard part on the truck. On my 2500 with 20” wheels, that part was about 80.125”. The standard radio antenna is about 0.75” taller than that. The clearance bar for the parking garage at work is 80” and I was barely contacting it. I put som john c garage 1.4” drop shackles in the rear and I now just barely squeak under that bar. Like .125” under. If I don’t have at least a half tank of gas I will barely touch on the passenger side. The garage is actually around 6’11” inside so I’m good. i think you’ll be fine, but your best bet is to test drive one home and check it.

Well I guess we’ll find out. I guess the good news here is that the regular Allison works with this motor if all else fails

When I bought my 2015 brand new I had the transmission take a crap after 200 miles. It would only shift into reverse and park. I had a great picture of it on a flatbed the day after I brought it home. They ended up replacing a bad electronic part, and back in business. For the next 94k miles I replaced a def tank heater, and a seat buzzer for the parking sensors. I got a nice bedrug out of the transmission problem when GM customer care called me to apologize about the transmission issue, unprompted. My point is, that was a true Allison. Things happen, that's what warranties are for. I really doubt the 4/5 statement. Mine is smooth as silk, very nice. They'll get it fixed. I drove the first 10k on my 2015 with a mild bit of nausea over the transmission and eventually forgot about it.... I wish I hadn't tiptoed those first 10k, there was no need for it.

Thanks but it's still not working for me for some reason. Sorry, sending you a pm so you can email it to me if you don't mind.

It won’t notify you. On my 2015 my rpm’s at idle would go up and I’d get crap mileage. It would have a dead pedal too. y 2020 seems to be a bit different but I’ve only had 1 regen I know of so far, it was around 800-900 miles. I could smell it and noticed the crap fuel mileage. I didn’t notice a bump up in idle rpm, or a dead pedal. GM has said in the past, their thought is that the truck should regen without the driver noticing. I plan on getting a Banks iDash, if you have one of those, it will tell you when it’s in regen, as well as dpf soot level, etc... pretty useful.

I installed an X4 on mine but I am going to be sending it back. For me, the rails just don't want to be close enough from side to side to allow the cover to function well. I could shim it, but there are other problems. Even though I have it installed even a little further to the rear than the instructions say, the tailgate is a good half inch from contacting the rear weather seal when the tailgate is closed. Also, being cold outside, it doesn't want to roll up very tight because the vinyl is stiff. Overall I think the fit and finish suggest this was adapted from another truck of similar size rather than custom fit to this one. I'm not impressed. At this point I'm between the truck covers usa, american work cover jr. or the retrax PowertraxPRO xr. I can't decide. The canister is smaller on the tcusa and it has a cool toolbox. But the rails look to extend into the bed less with the retrax and it's power and I can stop it at any point, which is nice for not needing tie downs all the time. Has anyone had both of these? Does the hand bar for the tailgate step function with the rails on the retrax XR?

Can you repost the image, it's not working anymore. I'd like to see what it looks like in our truck. I looked at his facebook page and can't find a photo for the 2020. I use the overhead grab handle to enter/exit the vehicle so I don't like banks' gauge pods for the pillar. Thanks for the heads up on this product.

Give it some time and expect to spend some money. I see 3 options being the available in the future. 1. Morimoto will probably make some aftermarket LED housings that are direct swap and plug & play. They have been doing this for a lot of makes/models over the past year or 2 and have been pretty successful. Check out theretrofitsource to see what I'm talking about. 2. Gen5diy is a company that specializes in making wiring harnesses that allow different functionality of things like infotainment systems, headlights, etc... and one of their things is harnesses that let people with lower trim vehicles add in factory fog lights or swap to higher trim headlights. The drawback is you have to buy the oem housings and as you found out, it's expensive. I am calling this company tomorrow because they make a harness for the 1500's that allows you to keep your fogs on in conjunction with your high beams, I'd like to know if it will work for the HDs. *Expect to spend about 2k+ for either of the above options. 3. You'll be able to either do an hid projector retrofit yourself or send your housings out to a company like fast headlights that will do it for you. The drawback here is that aftermarket hid systems are temperamental. I did 2 different retrofits on my 2015 and while I loved the output, I expected to change the wiring harness on a yearly basis because they just don't hold up well. The ballasts and bulbs held up fine, but the wiring sucked. *Expect to spend anywhere from $300 to 2k+ for the above option depending on what you want to do. *Also before I hear it, all of the above options utilize cut off shields to prevent blinding oncoming traffic, it works and it works well. *The led bulb replacements haven't gotten a very good reputation because the light scatters too much, both blinding oncoming traffic and not giving you a very good amount of throw down the road. I would save your money unless you see an option come out that gets very good reviews and has some ability to aim the beams. *On a final note, I went with the denali this time, and I love the lights. But I have to say I think it's BS, that GM is still using crap headlights as a way to differentiate trims. It's a safety issue, it's been in the news over the last few years, and there is no reason manufactures shouldn't be putting good headlights in ALL trims. You get better headlights these days in Kia's and Hyundai's for far less money. GM should be ashamed about that.

I have a 2020 denali that is having this issue but seems to be milder than some of yours. For me, on very tight left hand turns while going down a grade. For instance the local McD's does it to me every time here. Going around the parking lot there is a left turn going downhill. The ABS kicks in and the traction control light flashes. It feels like it is only happening in one wheel up front but I can't be sure. It does not cause me to stop. If I go slow enough or try to widen out the turn a little bit then I can keep it from happening. In my mind, this has to be a sensor calibration issue, my bet is they can fix it with an ecm flash. Since it doesn't happen often, and doesn't happen at all unless in that specific situation for me, I've decided to wait until there is a tsb to get it fixed, I don't really want any down time on the truck.