dna9656

Kevin; You sure talk like a mechanic! How refreshing! I'm retired now but have been in Maintenance for 38 years, Aircraft mech. and vehicle and vehicle body mech. for the USAF for 20 years, and worked in a shipyard for another 18. I have seen a lot of %^$&! GM has a term they call "cold soak", that's a time (8 hours I think) the vehicle sits to totally cool off, then they trouble shoot in cases like yours. I think everyone that has responded to your very clear and well thought out video explanation of the issues knows that it has SOMETHING to do with temperature. The fuel pressure (as I understand it) cannot be in the ball park, it HAS to be spec. Where is the regulator located? Near the engine I bet. Could it be getting warm, expanding and allowing low or higher pressure than spec? Try a hot and cold pressure check and fuel volume too. As you mentioned in your video maybe a pin in a electrical plug has some corrosion or moisture in it? It could be a component in a computer gets warm or a busted solder joint (due to heat) moves just enough to cause your problem. What ever it is it's GOT to be heat related because, as you say, you go to the &^$%^%# Walmart and come out and the truck gives you ^&$%#*. That's a warm or hot soak period; heat is the issue and it's something that happens so seldom it's not in the tech data. So ok, what are the things that cause weird ****** to happen not necessarily connected to heat? #1 BAD or CORRODED GROUNDS, #2 BAD or CORRODED electrical connections inside a "weather proof plug" that is no longer "weather proof" due to age or damage. #3 INTERNAL issues with electrical components like a busted solder joint, a capacitor, resistor, contactor in a relay or other inside the computers. #4 vacuum circuits, not seen much these days. Hardly worth mentioning. #5 This just occurred to me; it's a long shot fersure... coolant getting someplace it doesn't belong causing a short? Engine warms up, a crack in a hose opens due to pressure/heat, sprays some coolant someplace it doesn't belong. I would REALLY like to know what you find and would like to know the solution too, just like every other working person (got to be PC) here. Good luck we're with you! I think your resolution lies along these conditions Doug

A schematic (Haynes books carry a representative edition of wire schematics) can sometimes show the GENERAL location of components, think of the top of the page as the front of the vehicle. Some auto parts houses have component location info on their websites, I have asked dealer service depts. but they usu. don't know off the top of their heads, usu. a VISIT will make them feel like that have to go look it up, dealer parts guys can some times help. "ALL DATA" will most likely have it. A lot of public libraries have ALL DATA on line. GM has several manuals for it's vehicles, there is a general one, a transmission one, one for other major systems, etc. What I'm trying to say is not all the info or complete info can always be found in one book that's in your hand, if you have access to a GM CD you might find it all there. Sometimes you can find CDs for older vehicles on Ebay... I'd go to your local public library.

If ever there was a case of having tech data at hand and reading it before and during work here it is. I think all Haynes manuals cover this. I grew up in NE Ohio so I am familiar with your pain. To remove rusted bolts, use a good penetrating oil like WD-40, others, like Kroil (found in supply houses that service professionals, may be in some A/P stores, "Blast Off" is another (I think) and there are others like "LPS"; LPS comes in grades 1, 2, or 3. Let it soak; maybe overnight some times it takes days but usually not. You can get a torch, acetylene is hottst but most shade tree guys don't have one, I have used "MAP GAS" it comes in a yellow bottle or butane in a blue bottle, I might have these colors screwed up, my day soldered with the blue bottle, I think the map gas is hotter. Anyway heat the area around the bolt; the idea is to thermally expand the outer threads away from the bolt, I'm not sure that works in this instance as the outer threads expand toward the bolt too, but anyway it usually works; problem is the bolt you're heating can loose it's temper, if it's a critical bolt like in a brake application you MUST replace it unless YOU KNOW it's ok. I have heated up a bolt (hinge bolt on a 1957 Chevy Suburban) and used bee's wax on the bolt (like it was penetrating oil) and the bolt came out. These hinge bolts are made like a coke bottle as an attempt to keep the bolt from backing out, it's old school but it works, it takes a lot of elbow grease to get them out, anyway the bee's way liquefies on the hot bolt like you wouldn't believe. You can find bee's wax at hardware stores usu. hanging on a strip, ask for it. It comes in little puck like shapes. Always use a torque wrench ESPECIALLY on critical systems like steering, brakes, suspensions. Always use thread lock of the correct type and grade, after all it's YOUR butt in the vehicle or the butt of some one you care about. AS you may have found out there is no sinking feeling in your gut like the sinking feeling you get when the pedal goes to the floor and you're on a hill. That sinking feeling comes from your dinner making a hasty exit.... I know lock tite might seem like a frivolous expense and it usu. feels like it until a bolt works loose but then it's too late; your next question will be "What's that smell?"

What about a different torque converter? I have limited knowledge of transmission builds for power, most power upgrades are sought after in the engine with stuff HoozierZ did and I have to ask; do you really want to burn MORE gas at over 3 busks a gallon? I would do things like tuned headers and smoothed out intake passages Like Hoozier did, the spacers, that stuff allows a smoother flow of fuel you're burning now insead of putting considerably more fuel in the cylinders. Most tranny upgrades use the same gear ratios, they can use steel or forged steel gears (are there such things as forged gears or are all gears forged?) instead of aluminum, as an upgrade, you can add more steels and disks to some transmissions, sometimes there are higher performance shifting solenoids (like using Corvette solenoids in a car tranny. Search for NV3500 and read the hits, you'll learn a lot just reading the hits. The edition for trucks MAYBE modded for heavy duty as opposed to the models for cars, I donno.

Copied from the net: P219A Bank 1 Air/Fuel Ratio Imbalance - OBD-Codes.com https://www.obd-codes.com › p219a When a code P219A is stored, it means that the power train control module (PCM) has detected an air to fuel ratio imbalance for the bank of the engine which contains the number one cylinder. In order to monitor the air to fuel ratio for each engine bank, the PCM uses data input from heated exhaust oxygen sensors (sometimes called air fuel sensors).

You can get new key fobs from about any auto parts store or better yet price wise from Amazon. You can polish the lenses clear again with a kit from the auto parts store or Harbor Freight. Tooth paste and a buffer works too. Do a compression check to see if your engine is tired. Your window sounds like a tired switch is to blame again Amazon for that switch.in the least, I have about the same mileage as you on my 06 Avi, I did some major work on mine (ck my other posts) that I would do on your truck. Havoline is some good oil. I have taken down engines that Havoline was in, they were spotless, stay away from Quaker sludge. If you can solder on a circuit board you can replace the dash LEDs, there are kits available , yep ck Amazon.

I think what the mechanic put in there was a friction modifier for the positrack. Posis sometimes use a slightly different lube or you can put an additive in. That stuff with the T body is way over my head; I wish I knew more about that stuff, I've never had that kind of problem. i can tell you ALOT of those TSBs find there way onto the internet.... Doug

You have thought this through just about as well as anyone could. You could turn they headache over to a GM dealer, as they are supposed to have ALL the tech data and know the truck best. I know that sounds like hype but you got to give it some credence... You COULD have an obstructed fuel line but I have to doubt it, You didn't say if you have a filter or screen in the tank, unless your fuel line is deteriorating inside...do you use a lot of gas with alcohol in it? It's said that's hard on older fuel systems, corrosion being one of the problems. If you have a screen in the tank it should catch the larger stuff but again I have seen those screens have large corrosion issues and they let big stuff in, hopefully caught by an external filter, that would explain the frequent filter change. During my military service in vehicle maintenance fuel filters lasted seemingly forever, a result of clean gas and no crap in the tank. I bet your tank is plastic yes? If so that reduces the crap in the tank chances a lot. Your injectors prolly need a pro cleaning job, most everybody's do because most everybody doesn't get them cleaned before there is a problem. I had a '94 4.3 that had issues it needed a fuel pressure regulator,the part was hugely expensive The mech I used is prolly one of if not the best mech in town, he could work at any shop but he has his own. He told me that the spec for the fuel pressure MUST be exactly X (I don't remember the number but the number was higher than the one you described) so if your fuel pressure isn't EXACTLY what's prescribed (my mech said it HAD to be exactly correct) it won't run right or at all. Good luck and please post the fix once you find it.

No tricks, the tips as far as I know them: First, get a Haynes Book for your truck, they are based on an actual tear down they claim. You can pay for the web based manual, the pictures are bigger and more of them but you get 3 years (I think ) for X money, when you buy the book it's yours forever. I did both and thought it was worth it. Check you RPO (in the glove box) tag for the open or limited slip differential, some times you'll need a different gear lube. I recommend the synthetic, it's more slick than the organic lube. Purchase, buy, or rent the proper tools and the recommended products. Since your removing the axles it wouldn't hurt to inspect the everything In Accordance With (IAW) the criteria given in the manual. ANY deviation that you find needs to addressed. You got outer bearing and seals and you may have an inner bearing I can't remember. If you have to replace the bearings replace the seals, don't try to reuse them. You can prolly rent the tools at your store. It's very important to follow the tech data to the letter, that way your chances of trouble later on are MUCH lower. I purchased a wonderful bearing and seal driver tool kit on Amazon for under $30.00. It came with a blown plastic case, it's nice! Sockets can be used but most guys don't have sockets big enough for the bearings and seals. Use a gasket on the diff. cover, and use the recommended sealant (spooge) on both sides of the gasket. Have fun,take your time, use a torque wrench.

Hard to believe that one missing bolt on a shock is causing your problem, I mean the shock does not hold the vehicle up, the spring does. Usually a loose shock is cupping on the tire, or wheel bounce or hop. Alignment is control arm, control arm bushings, broken spring, ball joints, tie rod, Idler arm, shims.

Remember, when you inspect a front end(steering/suspension) get the vehicle up on jack stands. Locate the stands on the FRAME and not under the wheels. The idea is to get the wt. of the truck off the steering and suspension parts, THEN inspect as the parts will be free of any other influences.

I bet you can get a pretty good heavy duty clutch at NAPA, Eaton makes good clutches. Used to be a clutch called "Rev-Loc"; I think they became "Center Force". They put little weights on the fingers of the clutch (where the throw out bearing contacts the pressure plate) the theory being the centripetal force was increased with the weights to make the clutch engage with greater force that could be produced a diaphragm type clutch spring (works like the bottom of an old style oil can); I say this only because I have seen this type of clutch with the weights used on a GM product. Chrysler used to use coil springs, I think Ford used to use diaphragm style springs but am unsure what's going on nowadays. When I was in the service in Vehicle Maintenance the M-35 trucks (6 X 6) used a a clutch plate that wasn't like a disk but more like petals of a flower, I see that's still considered the last word in heavy dutiness.

I suppose the "no return" fuel system was easier on the pump? For years and years we had low pressure pumps up under the hood; and I know it's easier to "push a fluid that to draw a fluid, so ok, build a better pump and draw the gas, that way changing the pump and\or filter would be a WHOLE LOT less complicated.... I bought a 06 avalanche Z71 with 80 k on the clock. It had issues. The oil pressure sending unit was original, it had the screen in it. I tried overhauling the instrument module without any luck (change the gasge motors and replace burned out LEDs. How is it home lighting LEDs last thousands of hours but the ones in cars just a few years? I think GM got pretty cheap there in the early 2000s. Replaced the rear axle tube seals, changed the lube in the rear axle to synthetic. Replaced the rotors and brake pads all the way around. both axle hubs up front. Complete replacement of all steering components except the pitman arm and center link. Driver's side valve cover, all the rockers, oil pump, the infamous O ring on the oil pick up tube, the oil pickup tube, timing chain and gears, and the T-chain cover, oil pan gasket duh, 2 ignition coils, all the plug wires and plugs, universal joints. I replaced the driver's seat foam and cover, radio, it had an after market radio in it, I think the used car dealer I bought it from swapped it out for his own car. The truck had a THUMP THUMP stereo in it; I'm too old for that kind of stuff. There was a speaker baffle in place of the mid gate, it held 2 giant speakers and the amp. Sold that stuff and bought a junk yard mid gate. At one time the truck had those lights installed, you know the ones that blind anyone that's in front of them? The wiring was left but the lights were gone, there were 2 little boxes that went with those lights, they were left installed. The 4 X 4 Z71 had 22" X really wide tires on it, when going down the freeway the truck would get into the rut(s) and the car would follow the ruts, it was like one side of the truck was in a rut and the truck would follow that rut. I sold that stuff and got some stock sized Chevy aluminum wheels and new tires. I got the truck aligned when I rebuild the front end, another "duh". I replaced the fuel pump because it was shaky, and (in front of the intake) AIR sensor. I had the usual 4L60 transmission issues, thunking and what not so I asked around for the best tranny shop in the county and took it there. I had the shop upgrade the tranny to the Escalade/SS spec. tranny (4L 70). This adds more steels and clutches and other components, it was a $500 upgrade. While there I scrounged some minor parts and hardware from the shop's junk pile. I noticed a LOT of old transfer cases piled around; I asked why and was told the pump in the transfer case wears a hole in the back of the case and the tranny fluid leaks (gets pumped) out thus the innards burn up due to a lack of lubrication. I had never been in a transfer case before. So far as I knew it was like a Swiss watch inside full of tiny parts and such. Well it isn't. The tranny shop uses a thin steel (sheet metal) shield between the pump and the case, I went better and bought a Merchant Automotive cast aluminum part, they warranty for life that it's do it's job so I went with that. It was pretty easy to install actually, so I would recommend anybody with that transfer case do that. I installed a water pump, power steering pump, A/C belt tensioner, the alternator, all hoses, a battery, the current sensor that's on the negative battery cable. There was a blue aluminum spacer between the AIR sensor and the intake; it was one of those "increase your horsepower and get super gas mileage with this super-duper thing. It being there made installing the water pump a real pain. AC Delco lists 2 water pumps for the '06 5.3; one fit a hair better and the other because the upper outlet was clocked slightly differently but the real problem was the AIR spacer. I didn't all this in one month, I got the truck in September of '16. Ah; the adventures of buying a used truck. Had I known more about this particular truck and the shyster I bought it from I would have bought elsewhere he also promised me more conventionally sized wheels and tires; he dragged his feet about the promise until I got sick of it all, part of his business model I'm sure. So, note to self: get all promises in the contract and get them fulfilled before cash exchanges hands.

I bet it's more pronounced when the steering wheel is turned huh? You got a bad CV joint. Easy repair if you got the tools. You may need a length of chain to pull the half shaft out. I used a slide hammer, made a hook from a nail, installed the chain on a wheel stud, held it there with a lug nut, put my hook through the chain and aggressively operated the slide hammer. It puller the half shaft right out. BE SURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS BE THEY IN A HAYNES, OR OTHER MAINTENANCE MANUAL THAT'S SPECIFIED FOR YOUR VEHICLE.

Agreed. Many don't know that the AC is used to dry the defrost air making it more efficient (even somewhat effective when the engine isn't warm yet) when defrosting the windshield.

The biggest reason not to use the cheaper one is because it's not specified by the maker; the 2nd reason is do you really want to depart from the maker's specs on your brake system? The first time you feel the brake pedal go to the floor will be the last time you play brake systems engineer. Trust me.

I imagine there is a relay (or more than 1) is involved. Any COMPETENT shop would use a trouble shooting chart from GM or at least a generic one. Usually the first culprit is a bad starter circuit; ie, the problem lies within the starter circuit, there could be LOTS of reasons it won't start like a roll over switch, this switches turn off the (at least) the ignition if the truck rolls over, this way the engine won't continue to run upside down a condition the engine wasn't intended to operate in. To know all the possibilities and to check them against specs. a professional mechanic will use a check list from the manufacturer or tech data supplier. get a check list and a VOM (volt, ohm meter) Cheap ones can be had for under $10.00, get a better one; they will usually survive a few drops.

I agree with Richard. I hope this fixes it; changing the heater core is a big job if it's anything like my 06 Avalanche.

An auto recycler has an Interchange manual, they can tell you.

GM dealers have this information. Call the service department.

Sorry.

It doesn't matter what the tech says he's used to, what does GM say about how it's supposed to work? It's supposed to work like the MFR says it's supposed to work.

I would use the grade specified in the owner's manual.

Advice: never use a used electrical part on a new part when it's a pain to get to. Like a used fuel pump float on a new pump assembly. The only time a fuel pump or float go bad is right after you fill the GD tank right? With fuel tanks always use all new parts unless you wanna go back into the tank....

Yeah the calipers, pads and such aren't your problem; a master cylinder issue is my educated guess. GM publishes trouble shooting checklists for all systems....