dna9656

Try rockauto.com, parts geek.com, get the GM part number and do a internet search. Try the junk yards. I replaced mine and I know I didn't pay $200.00 for it. Lesson here is to keep the hoist lubed with grease.

Don't use capital letters like this, it looks like your "shouting". It does not impress anyone in a positive way, it's disrespectful.

Old school wisdom. The engineers at GM, Ford, or Chrysler are not dummies. If the factory recommends X stay with X.

Listen to James, I was gonna say "If its electrical and weird look for a bad ground. " I'm not saying he's right and I'm right, or either of us is wrong, but I think his answer is the one to chase down first.

Drive line components are selected for anticipated use, the easy way may be to call Chevy Customer service 1 800 888 1020, they provide more than service for current buyers, they have access to ALL KINDS of engineering data, old vehicle parts sources, authorized reproduction parts, it's very cool what they have access to.... check it out.

Yeah definitely get your truck scanned, Many a time I have seen guys take the truck to a competent mechanic at a professional shop to get it diagnosed, it's ALWAYS been money well spent. Most places flat rate 1 hour to troubleshoot. If there is a trade school around you might provide a "training opportunity" to the class...and get it diagnosed for free or pretty cheap. Digging into fuel tanks isn't hard work, just a pain and it's got lots of potential safety issues, you really got a bomb on your hands even when it's empty. I have repaired more than a few metal tanks (by soldering patches made for scrapped fuel tanks) I know what is SUPPOSED to happen when performing repairs but it seldom does. Bottom line: if you drop the tank, empty it, store the gas in approved containers or sell to your friends. Vehicle Exhaust Gas is used to ventilate the tank, it doesn't have much O2 in it, it's warm so it will hurry up fuel evaporation That's what is supposed to happen. Most people just buy a new tank, I guess because few have the skills to repair them. Plastic tanks in theory can be welded but I don't know if that's legal or best practice...

How about a drill out and a lock nut (with nylon) and bolt? You could use a nut plate if it's near the edge, it slips over the edge and holds it self in place with spring tension and sometimes little barbs, it's not for heavy duty applications though.

Yeah, 290,000 miles... yeah I bet you need a tranny and converter, fixing it is a LOT less$$$ than a late model used vehicle or JEEZZZ a new one for $60.000... 12 years of payments....

https://parts-catalog.acdelco.com/acesCat.php?# Is what AC Delco has to say. I went to AC Delco's web site and keyed in your info. I say Bosch makes good plugs for any vehicle, BUT in my Metric motorcycles I use NKG always. The old wisdom AC Delco in GM, Autolite in Fords, and Champions in Mopars still holds true so far as I know. I have used Bosch with good results, as good or better than AC Delco. Just because it's European doesn't necessarily make it better, just different.

The K & N kit was installed when I picked up my 06 Avalanche. The best thing I can say for it is it got a lot of crap out of the way, out of the way of working on ANYTHING under the monstrosity GM had there for an air intake. Now I have a 4" maybe 5" inch tube reaching over to the former location of the air filter box, this gives me room to carry a quart of oil to cover the oil used in normal operations. There are many youtubes on the performance of so called cold air intakes, they all say the same thing, spend your money on something else (or IMHO) put it in the bank and forget about the money; you'll get way more from your money that way than spending it on this theory. Compared to internal temperature of an engine any outside air can easily be considered "cold". Now, cool HUMID air is appreciably thicker than cold air alone and (at least with carburetors) can make a difference in performance. Don't get a K & N intake setup thinking you're going to do any more good than GM's setup. All you'll do is save money on air filters.

05 to 14 GM engine had crappy O ring seal at oil pick up tube to oil pump connection. I replaced mine. while I was in there I replaced the following because it was convenient at the time and I was already in there. Oil pick up tube Oil pump with high volume melling pump Timing chain and gear. Cleaned everything using a file I smoothed out the casting trash from shallow end to deep end of the oil pan to lessen impediment of goo in the bottom of all oil pan during oil change. There's nothing like 35 to 40 psi of oil pressure in a fully warmed up engine at idle. Remember a HIGH VOLUME pump, not high pressure pump; I bought mine from Amazon, beats everyone's price; esp. if you got Prime. The Haynes book tells you to replace the Timing chain cover without explanation; I assume it fails at some time so I replaced that too. You'll need an impact wrench to break loose the harmonic balancer bolt, GM wants that bolt replaced, so I used the old bolt to seat the lower timing sprocket and the balancer. You'll need a5.3 balancer puller, Auto zone's didn't fit so I bought one on Amazon $20 odd dollars. I used a verier caliper to position the new lower timing sprocket, so measure where (depth from end of crank) the old one lives before you take it off. You might get a gasket and front crank seal with the new cover check before you order a cover gasket and crank shaft seal kit. The oil pan and timing chain cover aren't as tricky as I thought; just have everything at the ready and (I can't stress this enough) use the right torque wrench for all fasteners. So be sure to have ft and/or inch pound torque wrenches on hand BEFORE you start installing the pan and cover bolts. ] At the pick up tube and pump junction you install the new O ring. It's kept in place by a bracket shaped very much like a GM distributor clamp (horse shoe) you can get one for the other side of the junction. Look at drawings/pics and you'll see what I mean. USE the RIGHT Thread locker too. Do it correctly and you wont have to do it again. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=model+years+affected+by+bad+O+ring+in+5.3+engine&t=newext&ia=web

My tranny guy says never run anything but the AC Delco tranny fluid, even though the law says they are all compatible (that changed YEARS ago) he thinks there's something in the AC Delco that's proprietary, he's DA man, I do what he says, he rebuild my 4l60E to a 4l70E and I've had no problemos.

My dealer gave me the build sheet (or something akin to it; i had all the RPO listed on it.) on the spot. Talk to the parts department... take the last 10 of the VIN with you. Maybe call them on the phone...

Sound to me like you're talking about a brake issue more so than an axle wrap issue but I don't know very much about axle wrap but like all old guys I got a story for you... I had a '67 GTX with a 383 magnum and a AFB (cool huh?) and a 426 4 speed iron cased tranny. One day the rear brakes stuck on then broke loose. The seals in the ends of the axle tube had worn out and gear lube had contaminated the brake shoes, I thought oil would make them slip, nope oil makes them GRAB. I pulled the axles out and found "shims" on the axle bearings (there was no roller or ball bearing in there just a bearing. The last guy took a coke can and cut strips to fit in the bearing instead of spending the $ to do it right.

There is a little universal joint in the steering line, It is splined to the gear box and splined to the steering shaft coming from your wheel, it sounds to me like these splines were not correctly aligned. IMHE most of the time the vehicle leads to the right due to the crown of the road(for rain drainage) when coming from the alignment shop. That is the work of a lazy alignment person. The engineers that wrote the original specs keep the crown of the road in mind most times. You said your turning the wheel to the right make the wheel correct is more than a lazy alignment person, I think the afore mentioned splines were incorrectly lined up. In any case take it back, you paid them to do it right. Then don't go back or recommend them.

Was this covered by a goop sealed cover piece? What about all ther A/C stuff ? Did you have to recover the refrigerant?

So did the gas station volunteer to take the 22 gallons of bad gas? I mean what are you supposed to do with it and why do YOU have to drain it?

Well now that you've filled the tank I can just about guarantee it's GOING TO BE A FUEL PUMP ISSUE that will require the dropping of the full tank.

When inspecting suspension and steering components have the vehicle up off it's wheels so the suspension/steering hangs free of the vehicle weight. Use proper jack stands, the fun and thrill of having a vehicle fall while you're working on it is surpassed only by your being UNDER it when it comes down. Gravity does not discriminate. It treats everybody equally; trust me. GMs have a weak point in the front end, the idler arm. It seems they are almost always ready for replacement. While I was at Pep Boys an old alignment guy once told me that some CHEVY idler arms are made so the arm can screw in or out. He said you can turn it clock wise ONE revolution ONE time and use it safely. That works if you own the vehicle, and have replaced the arm before; it doesn't work if you don't know if that's already been done so I don't ascribe to that again unless it's MY truck and I had replaced the tie rod previously. When you replace a tie rod (inner or outer) count the turns as you take it off, and install the new one the same number of turns, this way you're pretty close to being in alignment in most cases. I have never replaced a pitman arm. That's my 5 cents worth, 2 cents ain't enough no more.

Well it was a nice try, what about the unit with the screen? maybe it's bad and the camera's fine.... just sayin'.....

Control modules need no excuse to quit, they got a pretty good union! Stray volts shot though the circuits, (a wire rubbed bare next to a ground) loose ground some place (there is a chapter in GM manuals for ground locations), a weather proof plug that's no longer weather proof. Silly stuff like that. Once upon a time modules were programmed to go bad after certain time/mileage point were passed...I don't know if that's true or not any more. Some times that stuff just goes, resistor gets weak, a capacitor opens, a diode stops working; it's usually some thing like that, you know, a $1.00 thingy goes bad in a module and it costs $239.99 to get a new one/you have to turn in the old one. It gets "overhauled" for $50.00 and the next guy pays another $239.99 for it....Life goes on...

Is there a compatibility issue of camera and your radio maybe? Maybe they use different forms of video?

Is this an after market camera? If so I believe it's powered from the radio of not it's powered from what ever circuit it was connected to during installation, that's where you'll find the fuse; prolly in a fuse box, they are located on the side of the dash near where the upper door hinge is located on either side of the truck. I would check the wiring to make sure it's hooked up correctly and isn't pinched or shorted out anywhere. Don't use electrical tape to secure (only insulate) connection, use wire nuts or solder THEN you CAN tape over wire connection but shrink tubing is preferred.

Trace out the circuit (find the wire(s) that go to the outlet, I would star at the outlet and follow them back to the fuse block. Look for Melted insulation, ck any plugs looking for condition (pull them apart) etc. The hot wire could have just come off the terminal due to getting warm, that's a far reach but stranger things have happened. As well all odd eletrical issues check for bad grounds.

That's good advice from Richard, I'll like to add (given the mileage of your truck) 1 other possibility; I'd be thinking about the bearings in the rear axle, the outer ones. They are easy to replace, you can borrow the tools at Auto Zone or O'reilly's or NAPA. What's a "clunk from the TSB"? I had a clucnk but it was caused by the usual issues a a 4l 60 E has.