dna9656

It is illegal for tires to extend beyond the fender in most states. The tires slings rain water and debris (rocks, other stuff on the road way) onto other vehicles and imagine riding a motorcycle and some thing like this happens. If you want tires that wide you should put fender flares on that extend beyond the tire to avoid this safety hazard. I know a lot of cops don't cite people for this but should some one be hurt or killed because my tires threw a rock at a windshield or I flooded the windshield totally obscuring the driver's vision and some thing bad happened, well I wouldn't want to live with that.

I served in AK., Eielson AFB. for 3 years, I feel your pain. For those that don't know Eielson is outside Fairbanks, AK. Fairbanks is in central Alaska and it gets so cold the vinyl on your seats can peel off. We all know the air (hot or cold) is directed and re directed (mixed)by doors that are vacuum operated in a duct system. Detroit has over thought this HVAC so much. Used to be you had a slider for temperature, a slider for heat (directed the air to the windshield for defrost or the outlets for heat /ac) and 3 speed fan switch. Reliable as hell. Now you got electronic thermostatic controls because we're no longer smart enough to adjust the temp/direction of the air manually. A famous engineer once said "The more they over think the plumbing; the easier it is to stop up the works!" I think this is what has happened to you. You have ck'd and verified everything I could think of and more. Is there any possibility of a faulty ground? When it gets stupid it can easily be a bad ground. There are LOTS of grounds in modern vehicles (modern being anything with any kind of computer in it); you can't assume any metal is a ground (like I could on my '63, '64, Galaxies, the '67 GTX, the 71 Malibu, the 71 C-10, after that I got vehicles with computers in them. '83, 84, 85, 86, 94, 99, '06, '07 (Chrysler Sebring). The rest are Chevys. I spent 16 years in Vehicle Maintenance in the USAF, not to much I haven't heard of concerning vehicles of all types. That's why a bad ground occurs to me; your problem is elusive, it allows stupid thing to happen/not happen. I'd check all the grounds associated with the system, remove them, clean them, put some of that grease you use on terminals to keep it from corroding.

Yeah, I knew that! Well it was my guess that it was some thing to do with the air bag, close but NO CIGAR!

Does the new sending unit EXACTLY match the older one you removed? I ask because it looks like you got an what was an original hose (it's dirty) but now it don't match up to the sending unit, it doesn't bent over to meet that nipple that's on the sending unit. So that's why I wonder if the new unit is "fits most" instead of fits YOUR application. GM has this info (hose routing) in (an assembly manual for sure) publications, the local dealer might run off a copy (from the exploded view in the parts manual) for you, heck pay 'em if they ask....Otherwise you can check the bone yards around your location, ask other guys with the same truck, they might know....

I have a thing that plugs into what used to be called the cigarette lighter with a 9 volt battery connected to it. I've never used it, it's been in my (what has become my rather LARGE tool collection) tool box for gosh; what, the early '80s. I had a new S-15 and a new Celebrity back then. They might have been OBD1. My issue on thissubject is on my '06 Avi. The radio used to go off when opening the drivers door, now i have to use another door. I replaced the catch/door lock, door lock actuator and got the same issue, I have an after market radio but i bought the interconnect adapters (boxes) that's supposed to make most stuff work. I wonder if there isn't a relay that's fubar?

I bet it don't work thata way!

I'd call around your area, somebody does it for sure. If were me I'd take the whole thing; fly wheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk as an assembly so who ever does the job can balance them as an assembly (imho that's best) or as individual items. I know fersure that the crank and flywheel were balanced at the factory, but it coulda got screwed up; PEOPLE are involved!

I'd buy a cover for what ever (120.00?) and let it go at that.

I agree with Grumpy; There's a balance issue, prolly the pressure plate/fly wheel clutch disk assembly. When replacing with aftermarket items, especially a flywheel. I have never done it but I have had friends that did and they mentioned having the balance checked by a machine shop. I imagine there is a locator pin on the crankshaft flange so the flywheel goes on only one way so clocking the flywheel is prolly not an option. The real drag here is having to take it all apart AGAIN; then putting it back together AGAIN! The only plus here is your hardware is already clean. I know of guys that have had issues with the (clutch release bearing?) throw out bearing, they figured there was no problem with the one in there and they reused it, I don't know why it doesn't (usually) work but it doesn't If you used the old throw out bearing be sure to put a new on in. I have seen throw out bearings installed backwards too.

You installed a new Delphi? What's a Delphi? Then what happened?

I know that the fuel pressure regulator has a very particular pressure to make and if it isn't right (the computer monitors this) it won't run. It's also expensive. If you have a down stream oxy sensor and your cat is plugged I THINK that would show a code but I don't know. I think you should check all three of these issues, also i think the idle air control would throw a code but I really don't remember any more.

Any muffler shop will inspect that cat for you, if you need cat(s) get the corvette rated ones, they have a high flow rate so your exhaust is less restrictive. I agree with CAMGTP too.

Sounds to me like there is a place where electricity can arc over to ground, it happens when it's cold due to thermal contraction, then it stops when the truck is warm; thermal expansion. Sounds like you should get the missing cover replaced before going any further. I got my tranny rebuilt, no problem like you're reporting; also, I changed out the O ring on the oil pump pickup tube (the OEM ring shrank with age and leaked oil) this action required the removal and install of the starter and still no issues like yours so I would get that missing plastic piece in place and see what happens. I'd also check for loose\dirty grounds. Confucius say when problem electrical and weird check grounds!

Your brakes are super important, I think you got a vacuum issue. If it were my truck I'd take it to a well respected shop that offers free inspections. Let the guys who do it to put food on the table and the roof over the heads of their kids tell you what it is; then if you feel like you can do it you can fix it with more confidence or hire those guys and pick it up at the end of the day, ready to perform with a warranty. Don't forget to patronize those guys when you need to. They need love too.

I have performed this maintenance. Most shade tree people have the tools to do this. You can rent a torque wrench (the problem with that is you don't know how it's been treated and therefore how accurate it is (if you get one at harbor freight don't get the cheapies, they aren't worth the trouble) trust me... but otherwise you don't need any special tools. Just coax it out with a mechanic's hammer. What I do (because I think it's smart) after I get the hub out is clean the knuckle where the hub lives as best you can with a wire brush moving the brush along the phonograph finish in the hub's home. A soft brass wire wheel in your drill does wonders here. Hit it with some wal mart brake clean and clean it again. Dry it and put a thin coat of bearing grease over the complete surface, this will help keep water (rust)out and hopefully make removing it the next time a lot easier. Be sure to check the CV joint really hard, if it's FUBAR NOW is a good time to replace it. They aren't at all expensive, the hardest thing about a CV joint is they are no longer cores, you throw them away, a waste I think but that's the way it is.

I got one right! HOORAY!

BEFORE I did anything else I would get that sending unit out myself and see if there is foreign crap inside the sending unit's little bore. It's not easy to get to but it can be done, it's in the back of the engine just about where the distributor would be on a small black. It's HARD to see without a mirror. If there's crap in the bore I'd get some BG engine flush. Not sure that's the product's proper name; you can usually get it at NAPA, maybe Autozone...others. Bearing and Gear make some pretty good "mechanic in a can" type products. Wen I was on Active Duty they came out to the shop and demonstrated the product line. I was very impressed. Anyway after you flush that engine I'd try another sending unit. You could put a T under that unit, run a copper line to a good old fashioned oil pressure gauge and mount it under the dash for your own information.. I mean it's POSSIBLE you could have enough crud in the motor to disable the sending unit; flourishing the crud out would eliminate that POSSIBILITY. After the, I'd be looking for some one that could BENCH test that PCM for proper operation.

I would advise you to make sure you got adequate braking capability; when you get a bigger engine all the loads change, without the same brake setup from the bigger truck (I realize they are both 1500s but the truck with the larger engine prolly has a higher payload and tow capability), the heavier engine and trans, plus the larger load you'll be towing... just sayin'....

When crazy electrical s - -t goes on with a vehicle always suspect/search for bad grounds. The Avalanche has a reputation for ground problems. There are diagrams of ground locations available through an Internet search. You're fuel problem sounds like a fuel filter/pump issue,my '06 fuel pump is in the as tank; I imagine yours is too. Go to auto zone or other that has a tool rental program, rent a fuel pump pressure gauge and see what your pump is doing. You can prolly find the procedure on the internet too. Check every electrical plug you can find for (get some dielectric grease and apply it to the terminals, it can't hurt anything and it'll keep any water out) corrosion, correctly plugged in, etc.

Before you go any further I suggest you get the pressure of the system checked, there s a low pressure switch that when the pressure is low will turn off the compressor clutch. Also see if there is a manufacture's data plate on the compressor, go to their web site and see what you can learn there.

Your selector switch, the wiring /plugs that it operates through could be bad but I'm betting the "motor" (Chevy doesn't call it a motor, they call it something stupid) go here: https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2005/chevrolet/suburban_1500/transmission/transfer_case_motor.html

I have never heard of this place either, it at first glance it appears they are offering parts of the wire harness for various safety systems that might have had a failure so they use wires that the OEM used so you don't need a pin out, that's the cool part about it.

You can get a new dash pad, do an internet search...otherwise if you need a truck for the winter this is worth the 1k.

In my exp. a loose plug means it wasn't re-inserted in it's "home" or it's a plug for an option your truck doesn't have. It's cheaper for GM to make ONE wiring harness instead of one-offing them for each truck...so that maybe the case here. If you haven't already done it I would do a Internet search for "mirror wiring diagram, 2011 GM 1500". Check this out; I did the search and got this: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=mirror+wiring+diagram%2C+2011+GM+1500&t=newext&ia=web

Go to any bank or credit union with the info listed on your RPO codes (in the glove box) (you can take a pic with a cell phone) and they will compare the RO codes with the Kelly Blue Book or other resource and tell you what the loan and retail value is for your area. They can probably help you get hose numbers for where ever your moving to. It's been my exp. you are better off keeping what you have (not selling your truck) because it'll cost more to replace your truck than what you can get for it if you sell it.