dna9656

Yeah, I replaced my door latch/switch. A huge PITA. First it's easy to break the tabs on your door panel (the ones that hold the panel to the door) off. There is an effective glue available at most any store. The panel is made of poly something or other. Get a glue for that material should you break something. Also the black plastic (pwr door lock/window bezel) is the same thing black plumbing pipe is made of so you can use that glue (get it at Lowes, Home Depot) to fix that stuff. I got 3 doors that give that warning and the dome light doesn't shut off. I have to check but I think I replaced that body control module once already. Ya know for years and years we got along just fine without the door open warning and knew how to turn off the lights,radio and dome light. m Usuall y the dome light was on if a door wasn't closed all the way or you heard the wind blowing by. Back in the day if you left a light on you learned not to do that the very first time you did it because your battery was graveyard dead and you weren't going anywhere until you got it charged. Now we got these systems that allow complacency in operating/maintaining your vehicle. I'd like to get a pin out on that body control module and by-pass the PITA.

I'd go to my local credit union for a truck loan. It's for work you have coming in; present them with your business model and the work schedule. I'm sure you can get a business loan to earn a living, that's what credit unions are all about; people (not corporations) helping people.

What all is involved with knock sensor change? Can somebody give me a short version?

Check with a auto recycler that has an Interchange catalog.

Considering the environment paint lives in,,,, and how vehicles are painted in the "modern era" 13 years is pretty good. Your Grand Father's car/truck was painted with what was then called "Super Enamel" or an equivalent. It had high solids and was applied plenty thick. Your base coat/clear coat isn't nearly as thick and grandpa's paint job was. vehicles today last a LOT longer than cars/trucks in Grandpa's day and we had more protection from the sun years ago than we do now. Grandpa never saw a car/truck go over 200 k miles unless it was a summer only never rain/ snow and even then cars with that kind of mileage were extremely rare especially with out engine/transmission overhauls/or full on restorations. the "Task Force" Chevy pickups (1955 to 1959) were designed to last 10 years and we still have them with us and with the original paint. I would go get the hood painted.

Read my posts. I replaced the o ring at the pick up tube oil pump connection. While there I replaced the oil pump with a high volume Melling pump, the timing chain/ gear, and the pick up tube.

Again, when it gets weird suspect the wiring, grounds, etc. I don't know jack about the stabilitrac system; I haven't had any problem with mine; I sure don't understand why oil pressure would have any bearing (no pun intended here) with a traction issue. I just read a description of the system and it's about applying the anti lock brake system to wheels that are slipping, the stabilitrac system can also sense when the vehicle is out of control and can affect steering according to the article I read. How that impacts with engine oil pressure unless oil pressure is used to tell the computer the engine is actually running or or not but there are other sensors that can tell the computers that like the RPM and cam position sensors/systems; maybe the vehicle uses more than 1 sensor to determine engine status... https://www.auto.com/advice/what-is-stabilitrak

D_ _ _ GREMLINS! I have heard that when replacing engine sensors the OEM wire harness and the connectors there on don't perform well after the have been disturbed (disconnected and re connected to the new sensors. I have also read that any/all other than GM harnesses are not reliable.

I installed a Delphi FG0815 Fuel Pump Module 5 years ago. No problems. I don't know if this is/was GM's supplier but I do remember Delphi being a major supplier to the Big Three. I got it on Amazon for $183.39.

A- Are all the old school trouble shooting symptoms obsolete? If I'm reading this right it's seems normal, the battery charges a little after a draw like starting the the truck... this is what i see but the management system seems to toss all the old school symptoms out....

When it's weird check the grounds.

When it's impossibly weird look for bad grounds.

Kyle I don't know how I feel about ABS, I haven't had it come on very much. I would check with the traffic law people there where you live before I did anything. Making your vehicle capable of higher speeds isn't looked at much IME; however should you have an accident and be held liable or some else drives your vehicle and gets hurt you could be on the hook but especially if you defeated or removed a safety feature installed by the vehicle manufacturer. I remember countless times watching guys put big block engines in '66 Mustangs that had 4 lug wheels; wheels and brake systems designed for a car with much less horsepower, installing a significantly heavier and more powerful engine could mean the brake system couldn't stop the vehicle as the OEM would had intended with the OEM engine. The more "go" you put in the more "stop" you have to put in. What you're proposing could have similar implications. Guys with those huge tires and wheels found on monster trucks driving down the highway, those suspension systems and the brake system were not engineered to handle the tremendous forces produced when you increase the size/mass of the tires to those proportions. I would recommend you learn to live with it. Unless you live in a very particular place the ABS doesn't operate all that much; if yours does maybe you should examine your driving technique or style (driving too fast for conditions?) or, you live in Texas like Karnut; I think what Karnut is referring to is not the tar on the road but the slight oil slick from leaking engines, trannys, and axles. When it rains the water and oil create a real slippery condition, it washes off if it rains enough though.

Do an internet search for "automotive interchange manual'.

You may find the wires there behind the mirror, just remove the triangular trim piece in the corner of the door glass to check.

Defiantly DON"T use chassis grease/wheel bearing grease! You can get a plastic jar with an integrated brush, it's prolly last you 10 or 15 years unless you do a LOT of brake jobs, I was for a while and bought the jar. Get some "acid" brushes and use that to apply the grease SPARINGLY to the necessary areas. You should be able to locate these areas on the internet, but I lube all surfaces that rub another surface and the guide pins/bolts. You should see SOME residue of where it was grease in the past but then again most of the guys I knew even in retail shops I worked in DIDN'T properly lube the brake system; if there was any sign of grease they didn't take the time because they thought the 2 minutes it took to lube it was time the could be spent on the next job, the bad side of flat rate shops. When I do a bake job I use a wire (tooth brush style) brush and hit all the rusty/crusty areas I'm going to lube. You don't want to use a wire brush of any kind on the caliper pins/bolts; they have a plating or coating that resists rust so I clean those with a parts brush and lacquer thinner in a shallow pan 2' X 7" X 10" baking pans (measurements are approx) make great parts cleaning pans. I get them clean, apply the proper lube and put lock tight on the threads, a drop is all that's needed. Be sure to use a torque wrench on all the fasteners; nuts, bolts/pins. I might get some comments on this stating that;s not critical, well what's MORE critical than your ability to stop? That factory uses torque wrenches, the dealers use then as do the truly pro shops; it's legally required to do it because the OEM says so in the OEM service manual, it's the correct way to it and because not doing In Accordance With (IAW) leaves the mechanic and the shop liable for at least illegal service practices and if there's a collision and it's found that the brake job was done incorrectly it gets really ugly.

If you have an integrated (into the seat) seat belt here's how (at least on my 06 Avalanche) to get to it: You got to remove the arm rest to get the seat cover off. If you ever took a window crank handle off a GM you know there is a little horse (sorta) shoe shaped clip behind the window crank handle, there is a tool for this or you can use a hook fashioned outta coat hanger wire (if you can find a wire coat hanger) and get it off that way; it's prolly going to be a fight in any case. After you get the arm off you may have to remove the seat cover; peel it off by turning it inside out as you go; it's installed the same way it came off, you peel it back on. There is a service manual for this stuff but the dealer is prolly the only people who have a copy, you can prolly get from GM Helm pubs; the same place you get the GM manuals. You may find something at all data or the like.

You may be ahead to pay a local retail automotive place the hour for troubleshooting.

You can get the OEM switch on Amazon, it clicks into the pwr window cluster in the driver's door. I bought a replacement mirror on ebay for @95.00 but the "objects in mirror are closer than they appear is in Farsi~ The glass from my old mirror could be used so I bought it. You may have to get a pwr window/pwr mirror cluster though. My mirrors are heated and have the puddle light. Those aren't cheap. I think you are about to spend several hundred dollars if you don't buy your parts at the dealer I know the mirrors are in the high $200s, the switches are expensive too; so you'd be looking at around $400 to over $500 for the job. The wires may be included I donno, it might be less expensive to have ONE wire loom made up instead of many for the different options. Haynes repair manual shows "representative" schematics so there may be different wire looms... The mirrors come off easily enough and you can see the wire loom under the triangular cover just fwd of the door glass. I had a '99 GMc Tahoe type, I don't remember if it has the separate cover there like my '06 Avalanche does.

The Army has a different idea of "Operator Maintenance" than the USAF did. I say "did" because there is no more "Vehicle Maintenance" in the USAF. GSA has it all. I don't know about Special Purpose or what we called "Heavy Junk" (excavators, snow plows/blowers, tracked stuff, M-Series like you mentioned. In the USAF operators were responsible to check the oil, water, brake fluid, tranny, radiator and other stuff (as required by that vehicle" top off those fluids if ness. They had to wash the thing too, check the inflation on the tires. We did everything else. We looked at the fleet every 4 months for preventative Maintenance. The whole point of hiring some one to work on your stuff is so you don't have to! You shouldn't have to go around and check the work; if you have to do that go elsewhere! There are honest mechanics in your town or nearby. Expose the dead beats on the BBB site.

Well, I'd start out with a firm talking to with your dog, after all this all started with the dog....I have a little dog who sometimes gets on my desk looking for food; he steps all over the keyboard (wouldn't matter if i turned off the computer but I don't) and his stepping screws up the settings on the browser or worse. I would be very surprised if you get much traction with the dealer. It seems the last few generations of mechanics don't think or believe they should check their work; they apply the fix (and they must be pushing the vehicle to the ready line) and part the vehicle. Customer comes out, hits the starter (or drives the 2 miles home) and the vehicle (figuratively) blows up, won't start, has the same symptoms. The thing is they got your money and you usually don't get a guarantee that the work solved the problem. Didn't you say you're a former GM dealer master tech/service writer? Seems to me if you haven't you ought to apprise them of that fact if true. I make a point of telling people that work on my vehicles that I spent 38 years in the vehicle maintenance field, be it airplanes, vehicles of all kinds (every vehicle you would find on an air port and some special purpose ones too) and marine maintenance. I have been around and seen a lot. My experience includes time in the Arctic (4 years) time in more mild climes and in Southern Florida and West Texas where heat can do some weird things but not like my friends experienced in the Gulf War. I certainly don't know what I used to know but it's my way of telling the mech. or the service writer that I know BS when I see it; I know what good (or "best") practices are and a Road Test/looking over your work is always good practice. For me there was nothing like the embarrassment I feel when the customer's vehicle I fixed or QA'd out to the ready line is any displaying faults; especially the one(s) that were supposedly fixed and it's worse when there are additional faults. Incoming QA is important; you have to find all the obvious (visual) problems and list them, the hidden ones or ones that weren't on the work order are much easier to justify their being missed while still an opportunity to gain trust and make a little more money honestly AND gain a loyal customer. I think this should be the general attitude at all maintenance shops, Mechanics should show some self pride and self respect, and respect of the customer and their bosses by doing it as right as possible the first time. Anyway that's my philosophy.

Agreed; if you changed something and a problem occurred undo the change a little at a time (maybe); in your case start with the 3rd bake light.

Way to go shakenfake!

Gocha!

I also must concur with you on the quality of some mechanics. Getting things done by 2 people is inherently dangerous (see rock auto news letter this month for an example); if you're going to do that you both better walk around the vehicle and check it all. You can't assume the other guy got "it"; and everybody knows what you do when you assume. You make an Ass (outta) u (and) me.