dna9656

Fellas, there is no rotational wear on the bushings when the door is in the open or closed position. I know the door bounces up and down going down the road and that certainly is a contributor. The door shouldn't fall when you open the door nor should have to be slammed or lifter when closed. This is not the problem for me. My doors won't stay open, they swing back towards the body of the truck; like maybe the truck took a hit and the frame is bowed downward.

Taking off the bed cause it's easier... ain't that the truth!

Back fires are usually a timing issue that's why Scotty referred you to the distributor. That thing has to go back just like it came out. Get a Haynes, it'll tell you how to get the engine (get the No. 1 piston up on TDC) in the correct position and how to insert the distributor. BTW unless some one changed things on your truck (doubtful) GM installed it's last carburetor sometime in 1986 or 1987.

P-E-R-S-E-V-E-R-A-N-C-E You got it in SPADES! Congratulations!

Look at All Data or cal lyour local dealer; congrats on using a torque wrench; you can bet your bottom dollar there is a spec for that and everything else on your truck.

Or you got a ghost....

In Alaska most drivers put a piece of card board in front of the radiator; at 40 to 70 below engines suffer from hypothermia, they don't produce enough heat to compete with the elements.So a piece of card board could solve your problems. If you bought more radiator than your engine calls for it's no surprise it's not heating BUT the T stat should be controlling the heat. Your T stat is not working correctly.

To stop your truck you use the B-R-A-K-E-S; when you're tired you take a B-R-E-A-K.

"07 NNBS 5.3" Please don't assume the whole world knows what "NNBS" means.

The fuel is also the pump coolant; my first guess would be due to the lack of fuel to cool the pump and associated parts some thing melted and now won't allow fuel to pass or you burned up the pump motor.

Eastwood had a tool at one time; it hooked on to the Nader Bolt (strike plate) and latched into the door latch: I think the idea was you could adjust the hinges (back when they were bolted to the door and the body proper) using this tool to check for level. It's no longer on the site. Back then there was no WEB SITE!

looks to me like project farm sells a lot of coffee cups and t shirts.

Check Auto Zone paint isle, then Oriellies..

Bushings at the (stealer) dealer are stupid expensive. Auto Zone sells bronze bushing (like GMs) for way less money. If you're going through bushings that fast some thing is terribly fubar.. The door is twisted, some one is leaning on the door A LOT, there is a lot of dirt in the hinge area. Mud flaps might help.

Will do!

Got a powder coated bumper, the plastic non skid lights and hardware from ebay, it arrived today, I'll be installing it this weekend. Today I installed new wipe arm bushings to improve wiper performance, I read that a clay bar will remove stuff on the glass that makes the wipers skip sure would be nice to have a older vehicle with a solid wiper system. I live in the US Pacific North-West, it rains ALOT in the winter and fairly often all summer too. A good wiper system is a must!

IMHO $500.00 is a lot to satisfy my ego and impress others who, in the long run, are thinking more about what you think of them than what they think of the headlights on my truck. Just sayin'. If it were me I'd buy a set of good looking take offs and let the seller on Ebay spend the $500.00 on a set of "sexy" headlights. Then I would spend my savings on beer....

For $500.00 I will get a drill and a head light buffing kit and buff the plastic lenses and use that $500.00 for beer. I have heard of people removing light scratches from watch crystals with a rag, tooth paste, and a finger. If tooth paste doesn't remove the enamel from teeth I'm pretty sure it'll be ok on head light lenses. It'll take some elbow grease fersure.

The physics say you can't get more flow than the smallest opening the gases flow through. If you got a 3" Y pipe that's the max you're going to get, even if you put a 6" pipe on it from the 3" point it's flow no better than the 3" allows. That's the physics. Just like water, you can't get 4" flow from a 2" source pipe by connecting the 4" to the 2". Stay with the same size as the smallest opening your system has. The cat will flow X, you can't get better than that in a CAT back system. Maybe if you ran headers you could increase the flow, but it would still be no better than the smallest hole the exhaust passes through. You'd need a cat that has that same size diameter inlet and outlet as your upstream pipes

There are political forces in play that will tax gas burning vehicles past the point of affordability for most of us. there is a $150.00 and a $75.00 tax for owning a hybid or electrical vehicle in my State; 2 taxes. They (the party that raise taxes) are going to do the same thing with real property if we the people don't start voting responsible representative into office. Private ownership of real property will be taxed to the point few can afford to pay the taxes on it. We'll all be living like the Jetsons (they lived in huge disk thick with many levels in the sky. You never saw the earth in Jetson cartoons just sky, space and the surface of other bodies in space. I think there will be electrification/hybrid kits for some trucks so people that don't have/won't pay over $100.000 for a vehicle that's depreciated to worthlessness before it's paid for; I know I won't; I'll walk, ride a motorcycle. Or maybe stay at home and order the stuff I need over the internet. That's another practical side to this dicussion.

Who has poor door performance on their truck? Does the door not stay open? Do the detentes (the places the door "offers" to stay open) not exist? How did you fix it or do you just live with it?

Well Cam, that would explain why he can't find it......

Thanks all!

I don't know for sure but Chevy has a long history of common bell housing to engine pattern, Power Glides, T-350, and T-400 fit big blocks, small, blocks and in-line 6 would all hook up to the popular engines back in the day, but the rub is we're not back in the day... Chevy doesn't usually change bell house casting equipment unless there is a significant difference.

I read/was told to be very careful when doing any kind of electric welding on Computer controlled vehicles (OBD 1 & 2) because the weld current can go places that's bad for the vehicle. So if this is true (I have no doubt it is) how do you set up a (2004) OBD2 GM vehicle to safely weld without blowing a computer or air bag?