dna9656

There are torque sockets out there, you put them on your impact gun and they somehow take your lug nuts to the correct torque. They are like a double ended socket, you get a set usually. I have no idea how they work. I was the Assistant Non Commissioned Officer (Staff Sgt.) in the local USAF Base Vehicle Maintenance Shop. I was a body shop guy doing duty in the general purpose vehicle shop. We worked on everything except tracked stuff, excavators, aircraft cargo loading vehicles, etc. We did 10 ton tractors on down to those little vans that aren't legal on the public highways. I supervised and in/out QC., parts ordering (made sure the numbers were correct, turned in the requests, reported completion estimates to the Chief of maintenance or the maintenance Officer. I never figured out how those rods worked but I had a LOT of good guys working for me. They used them all the time because they were faster to use than a torque wrench. I couldn't argue that point at all; and they never needed calibration that I can remember, maybe a cal. check because there was no way to calibrate it. You might like that way better than a torque wrench.

There used to be a widget you plugged a 9 volt battery to and plugged it into what you and I would call the cigarette lighter. This was supposed to maintain the memory(s). I have one! I never used it because I got CRS! Maybe you can build one... q 9 volt pig tail soldered to a plug....can't be too tough... How did you get an off year engine in your truck? Did yo buy it at a chevy dealer? In the dealer's defense; Is it routine to check serial numbers against the VIN on vehicles coming in for service? I would think so, esp. trade-ins. For example Music stores take in trades but before you can take something traded in home it goes through the cops who are looking for stolen property...certainly this is routine for high value items like a truck! I knew a shade tree mech when i was working. "Shade tree' meaning not a professional and one who certainly didn't do professional level jobs, just a guy that persevered on a problem untill he 3/4s solved it; yeah, the truck ran.... sorta but not right... he took an engine out of a Dodge and put in a different engine without changing the things that should have been changed. Yeah it ran.... sorta... and he'd turn this truck and others like it for side money. He never got the title in his name, he held on to the signed but undated title until he sold it to the unsuspecting. Cash transactions. Nice guy huh?

I bought some kind of module at parksgeek.com. They had the best price I could find for a Dorman modual.

Reads to me like you need to talk to the dealer, district rep or a lawyer.

This is not the old JC Whitney of back in the day. I saw no questionable parts such as fake cell phone antennae, fantastic car stereo sets for prices so low you don't dare order it, no 1964 Ford Galaxie fiberglass fenders, no custom fuel tanks, etc. I bought a 31 gallon fuel tank to replace the 13 gallon OEM tank talk about an upgrade! I also could get alternator upgrade kits, I took my 35 amp model (for a 65 chevy) to 70 amps with a new field coil, bearings, and diode set. You just can't get stuff like that any more.

I empathize 100%. So, I have so many tools I don't always know what I have! That shop owes you a pro-rated amount of money for the premature wear due to their negligence OR 2 tires new or used in very good shape. I have taken my vehicles in for alignment and as I left the shop my steering wheel was not centered as I drove down the road. That makes me crazy; shops that don't check things that were specifically asked for! Shops that don't road test things like alignments, brake jobs! Any safety related repair should be road tested, we shouldn't need a law for this, every shop should do it as a matter of quality control and to lessen liability for shoddy work like you got. Don't forget to post your displeasure on the BBB web site as well.

I think the 3" pan is standard, my 4L60E has one. I wasn't sure so I ordered one that came with a drain plug, it was the same depth as the OEM. I like drain plugs on tranny pans, it makes life so much easier and less messy. Also since your supposed to drain fluids as close to operating temperature as possible a drain plug sure helps avoid burns. Oh btw when I last changed the filter (along with the pan) I installed an after market tranny oil cooler. I installed it where the OEM one goes but It's twice the size of the OEM cooler but the OEM cooler would be a whole lot easier to install.

That's a fact Jack!

As has been mentioned before; if it's weird and electrical CHECK THOSE GROUNDS!

Plastic is way lighter than glass as you know, and you figure at least 2 head lights per vehicle that glass uses up a LOT of gas on that scale. I don't think you want to glue the cracks and sand/buff out the excess glue (like you would a touch up paint job) and I don't think it would be legal. The cracking is prolly due to age and debris hitting the lens, but the fading/glazing over you can buff out. I hear car wax on the lens slows down the (prolly) sun's effects (glazing) on the plastic.

I agree with Shakenflake; you need to find an interchange manual (your local professional junk yard) and see if the seats will fit. The floor pan (not floor PLAN) is most likely different, connection point in different locations heights, and styles. I have some experience with this and my adventure was a cake walk. I installed bucket seats from a late '60s/early 70s Blazer into my '65 short wheel base (they came in 3 wheel bases) Suburban. I had some brackets made or the outer legs of the seats due to the topography of the floor pan, the mounting points were WAY lower relative to the legs on the seats, no leg was the same length and any of the outer 3 legs. The 2 inner legs I just washered up but the outer ones needed a tapered box to fit under the seat between the legs and the floor of the truck. You can't do this kind of modding on modern trucks. There's too much to account for; like seat height / air bag relationships, side air bag / seat relationship. The list is prolly longer than I can think of. If you want a fresher interior I'd just go to the bone yard and get one, after market seat covers that strap on look great until you sit on them and getting a reupholstered interior is going to cost $1,000s.

I didn't consider the torque (T/C) converter; I was thinking maybe a rear bearing or a de laminating tire. I think you should get the tires looked at anyway just to rule them out. On further thought, I think the T/C was a pretty savvy call. Unfortunately to check it is going to be a PITA big time, especially if it turns out that it ISN'T the T/C. I suppose a real (professional) trans shop will have a way to diagnose the T/C without removing it to trouble shoot it; but then again that may be the only way, I donno. I would ask around and find out who the best transmission shop around is and go there. Don't forget to check out the BBB site for complaints and believe what you read there. Most folks are not vindictive without reason.

the quick and easy way through this is to go to Walmart and get some spray deicer and keep it in the front seat....I think it's pretty weird that you got the heated back glass and NO heated mirrors on a truck but my Chrysler Sebring has that very same arrangement. My 06 Avalanche has both.... You should see if you got the electrical system for it; I mean enough amps of course. Trucks today come with what would have been HUGE back in the day but that's because of all the electrical stuff of course. You can get aftermarket mirrors on the internet that are heated; they should come with a relay and switch, to do it like GM did it...I wanted heater seats in the above named Chrysler, I thought I'd go to the bone yard and get some heated Chrysler seats THEN I read about what Chrysler included in the heated seats option. Timers to turn off the seat (because the operator is too dumb to turn them off I suppose) and other overkill (IMHO) stuff. I bought heating elements through Amazon, removed the seat covers and installed the elements. I wired the heaters to a switched (ignition) controlled circuit so the seats wouldn't be left on and run the battery down. Old school heated mirrors would just be added with little or no thought to whether or not the electrical system could handle the load; mainly because there were no computers, sensors etc. that's there today.

I suspect the linkage could be out of adjustment. Is the shifter a GM OEM thing or is it aftermarket. I haven't seen a floor shifter as OEM in a truck in like forever. I guess maybe they are out there; I haven't seen one...

You have a Gremlin.

I think because it has a heavy duty cooler it's (in a way) stronger as heat is what gets trannys along with old fluid and a lack of filter changes. I upgraded my 4L60 E to a 4L70E (that's what's in (I'm told) the Escalade and SS car models. More clutches. No outside appearance changes...

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=919-109&crid=30S0QK9B8TIIP&sprefix=919-109%2Caps%2C480&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 $88.00

The use of non GM parts failing due to the fact they are non GM... I wonder about the legalities of that. My tranny guy recommends the use of AC Delco tranny fluid in the trannys and X fer cases ONLY. He won't cover a warranty repair if you use something else. How he knows the difference I donno... I have read in the GM forums of guys using non GM wire harness under the Intake manifold and they don't work, I don't remember what was wrong but using the GM part there was no problem. The problem with this is most people don't want to pay the exorbitant prices at the dealer; I don't either and will resist because I'm thrifty (cheap) and yes i do realize that Dealers hire (or are supposed to be hiring) the best and brightest, train them a lot and so with people like that you go to pay a good wage to keep them. Sometimes we have to bite the bullet and pay but consider this: getting a part that works right the first time is worth how many re dos? Ask those guys that replaced the fuel pump in the above post(s). Dropping a fuel tank is a MAJOR PIA; I know; I have done it more tan a few times. I was in the military vehicle maintenance shop assigned to allied trades (aka the body shop) and we were responsible for the repair of fuel tanks and radiators, I have pulled/dropped many of each and soldering fuel tanks is not my idea of a good way to spend the afternoon. We did it with a hot iron, no flame of course, and we had to purge the tanks with exhaust fumes from a running vehicle for 2 hours minimum to get the gas outta there. Now with plastic tanks it's a different issue today but so far as I know heavy equipment still has metal fuel tanks...they still rust and need repair.s

Could be the seat belt; you can replace the belt of course but I would look into a test first. MAYBE short out the sensor and see if the light goes out. Not very scientific or sophisticated but it should work; therefore I wouldn't do it until I read what GM has to say. If I recall from my GM dealer school days (back in the late 90s) connections in the safety related systems are critical. You have to back probe connectors, I remember they had a test crimp thing, you crimped it onto the wire you wanted to test, (it stayed on the wire forever) and it had a probe hole in it you could insert your VOM teats lead tip into it to check for what ever you were checking for then when you removed the test lead a fluid inside the crimp flowed over the probe hole to protect the wire from corrosion. I am pretty sure this was on air bag circuits but hey, why not on seat belt wires? AS I have stated many time in this forum any time you get weird electrical problems you can not discount bad grounds. You always have to consider them and I consider them first as they don't cost any money (if you do the work) to track down and since bad grounds can be the simplest of solutions logic dictates that you search them out first. How's it go... "Occam's razor, also called the 'law of parsimony', is a philosophical idea, mental model, and problem solving principle developed by English theologian William of Ockham in the 14th century.. The principle states that if there are multiple hypothetical explanations to a problem, the explanation that makes the fewest assumptions is most likely to be the right one."

I know nothing about these headlights but I would like to pass on a story; some thing I was directly involved with that was about aftermarket headlights. It was night of course; I was exiting a divided 4 lane state Highway, at the bottom of exit I was going to make a left turn. The road (an arterial) there passes under the state highway I had just left. On the on coming side of of the road a vehicle was parked with head lights on. I could tell from the immense brightness he was not running factory headlights but one of those aftermarket setups. I looked both ways twice for any traffic that might be approaching my position, to my right was clear but to my left all i could see was those lights, it was night (duh) and traffic was much more sparse on this road; I pulled out and the same time another vehicle popped out of the glare of the parked vehicles lights. I kept turning and made it to the shoulder of the road on the on coming side of the road being narrowly missed by the on coming vehicle. As I was on my motorcycle I approached the the parked vehicle, the driver lowered his window and we had a little conversation about his lights. It didn't get loud or contentious. The guy just seemed unmoved and uncaring that his lights were so bright, and/or so ill aimed that he blinded the drivers whom were in front of him.. Completely oblivious. In my State 4 wheeled vehicles are allowed 4 driving lights motorcycles 3. We have people (like in all locales) who drive around with the brights on; this is usually unintended and you flash your own brights at them they dim theirs. No we have (mostly off road SUVs and pickups that have all 4 headlights on all the time in face of on coming traffic or not, on city streets, freeways, country roads, drive throughs, etc. Flashing your lights at them because your blinded and can't see often gets you 2 more lights (for a total of 6) in your eyes. The laws about bright lights and aux lighting aren't there to spoil the look of some one's truck or lower the owner's "Isn't my truck macho and cool" factor. They are there so some body's loved one gets to where ever they are going safely without getting blinded by some one's careless operation of their vehicle. So pleaser if you must have more light consider why you feel you need them. if you can't see far enough down the road to drive safely maybe you're driving too fast, if your not exceeding the speed limit or "out driving your lights" perhaps you have a night time vision issue. Maybe you should think about getting your vision checked because if you can't see with the factory standard lighting and you're not out driving your lights perhaps you shouldn't be driving at night.

I changed the fuel pump in my Avalanche; it was a bi ch. Of course (following the laws of nature) the tank was full when the pump quit so I borrowed all the neighbor's gas cans and still left some gas in the tank. You have to be VERY careful with all the plastic connectors and pipes, that plastic gets hard and brittle and it's a very special plastic made of "UNOBTAINIUM" on purpose so you have to go to the stealer to get news stuff; thank your stars if you find it's still available...

Yeah, I have some hose clamping tools I get from HF, one type looks like a C clamp and the other are vise grip like but had a (not sharp) plastic blade; both style crimp rubber hoses just fine, now if I could just remember I have those tools...

Yeah, then no big bleeding jobs....

What happens when the engine is running and you turn on the running lights? There is some sort of problem in a controller is my guess. GM has a controller for everything, even systems we never needed a "controller" back in the day. Like door jam switches. There's a controller to control the power door locks and therefore affects the dome light. If they didn't tie those systems together you wouldn't need a "controller". Now, you have to troubleshoot the door latch, the door locker, and latch, a switch that senses when the door is shut or not... on and on it goes. Again back in the day it was everyone's responsibility to shut the door properly and lock it. The dome light came on when you opened the door or manually turned it on. Running lights and head lights stayed off until you turned them on... just sayin things don't have to be so automated. No wonder a new vehicle starts out so expansive.

There are plenty of hoses you should at least inspect. Check for leaks (duh) cracks in the rubber, bent ends (some hose use tubing on the ends) general condition. Any questionable issue replace it. You sure won't want to be crawling around replacing stuff that would have been a lot easier to replace when it was apart. I have an Auto Zone water pump on my 5.3, works just fine. Think about a radiator flush. The serpentine belt should be replaced, esp. if it shows cracks on the inside. There is a separate belt for the A/C compressor you should replace or at least inspect that now too. Look at power steering hoses, hydro boost hoses too.