TXGREEK

I’d say, oh yeah!!!! Best of all, you can still tune your new resi’s at a later date if so desired Sent from above

Question, wouldn’t it just be a whole lot better just getting the adjustable 2.5’s for ease of adjustability versus a tuned shock for one specific? If it were me, I’d just get the adjustable 2.5’s and tweak them as necessary rather than one adjustment fits all, just my opinion this way you can tweak as necessary Sent from above

Asked a few mechanic buddies of mine at a performance center, install superchargers and all sorts of goodies, told me approximately 30-60% will be oil and even 15% will actually cause carbon buildup with time but depending on how you drive it they still recommended having one. I wouldn’t like what SS502 has shown in his recent Pyrex bowl to get back into my engine and get on my valves etc. to each their own, professional mechanics work on these multiple times throughout the day and they’ve highly recommended them but again I don’t feel like dealing with them and also having to remember to take it off before going into service. I’ve got 100k mile extended warranty that I need to keep lol. So, if professional mechanics that work on very high dollar cars recommend them I’m sure it’s for a reason. Sent from above

Actually, climate has lots to do with it as those living in colder conditions do seem to collect a more diluted mixture of oil mixed with condensation. I applaud SS502 for even taking the time to show all of us the proof that this “OILY” substance captured before re-entering the air induction. Imagine what you see in the pan was not captured by the catch can but was sucked into the air induction, not being burned off but causing carbon buildup as it gunks up the valves etc. I don’t have a catch can, mainly cause I don’t feel like dealing with emptying it and cause I don’t keep vehicles long enough to actually give a crap but I am loving my GMC. Meanwhile, I’m using fuel treatments as well as the best oil in the market (Amsoil) along with best oil filters in hopes to avoiding a dirty engine. I’m having my vehicle professionally cleaned if and when it’s time to do so. I’m always intrigued with the findings members like SS502 have provided us all while on their dime and time. Sent from above

I’m thinking should’ve had the adjustable versions installed then I may have been able to test them although they’re great everywhere but that one specific jarring speed bump. Anyway, hope you’re enjoying your King setup, nice colors too Sent from above

Ok ok how do you know? Sent from above

No, lol Sent from above

The catch can doesn’t add hoses its placed between the stock hoses but does come with its own quick connect hoses just replacing the stock ones. Sent from above

Lmao! Sent from above

Oh come on, if it’s sucking oily vapors instead of clean air then don’t you see how catching it and containing it would be better than allowing it to be sucked back through the air intake. Did you read the article I posted? Sent from above

Better explained https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/10/solving-gasoline-direct-injection-issues-facts-fictions-gdi/ Sent from above

Why not just check your oil level every week and see for yourself how much is if any is needed to be added, not everyone’s motor burns off the same amount oil as the other and SS502 has a 6.2 same as mine. Sent from above

Thank you for taking the time to write this review. Initially, I too was looking at doing the same thing by installing CST or King 2.5” leveling coil overs as well as new uca’s but decided to just go with the 4.5” CST Lift instead which I’m very glad I did go this way considering the excellent ride quality keeping stock geometry. Currently, I’ve got 2.5” front coil overs and rear Piggybacks. I’m very impressed with how the coil overs handle big dips with ease but not crazy about hard speed bumps feeling a bit jarring but excellent off-road going over dips. I’m thinking of doing what you did changing out my uca’s will help with articulation and have more control over hard hits from tall skinny speed bumps. Here’s my front and rear setup Please do keep posting your results from anything else you may encounter Sent from above

Here’s the CST 2wd lift but it’s a spindle lift and not a bracket lift which will poke your wheels out about half inch tops unlike every other lift about twice that of CST. https://cstsuspension.com/352-lift-kit-2014-18-1500-2wd-truck.html You can actually get it much cheaper if you shop around Sent from above

CST does have leveling coil overs but require new UCA’s to be installed too which is a better ride than spacer blocks and replaces your front struts and coils at the same time. This is the same setup I went with before I decided to just do the full lift. The same lift “will” work on your 2wd truck too but has parts you won’t need too which you could sell to someone that would give top dollar for exceptional quality, just a thought. Sent from above

I could be mistaken but I believe they’ve been out for years just not as a package till recently Sent from above

Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above

Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above

Bingo! When first started same BS was said to me, never had a level before until worried about getting into parking garages and it’s amazing the amount of bad information spewed out in these forums by either very cheap asses knowing damn well it’s going to rub but are either to stupid or just miserable people that think it’s ok and no big deal to have rubbing based on looks instead or then those that don’t even have the same size the OP requested about. I went from front and rear leveling blocks, new front and rear Bilstein 5100’s to then needing new +1 offset wheels which I sold stock wheels at the time the new wheels came out and donated the funds to a single mom with three kids at the tire store that needed new tires. I bought new wheels, tires and rode like CRAP! I was lucky to hear from people with actual experience not made up crap heard from he said she said etc etc, instead of buying front coil-overs I should just do the CST Lift which best fit my criteria with zero widening of the track width and ruining my stock turning radius and after consulting with my Off-Road shop that I frequently use for all my trucks and SUV’s I was told it’s the best out there. So I jumped on it and never looked back. I’d advise anyone looking to do a level to do a coil over level for better handling and much smoother ride but you’ll definitely need new UCA’s if doing 2.5 leveling coil overs. Good luck and God Bless! Sent from above

No need to start feeling that insecure, wasn’t pointing the finger at you. Just made it clear that lots of people out there have no idea what they’re talking about especially getting involved in something they’ve got no idea what they’re talking about which misleads people into having more expenses. Sent from above

You’d be surprised as to how many people actually put out misleading wrong information out there on leveling and tire size especially 15 1/2 - 18’s. In the past, I’ve called out a bunch of BS’ers claiming their tire larger sizes on these model years didn’t rub when leveled even some saying it didn’t rub cause their tires were already on before the level, lmao! And then find them down the road on another thread talking about their rubbing issues. People: Leveling WILL cause rubbing issues on years 15 1/2 - 18’s GM 1500’s running 20” wheels when adding anything bigger than stock size tires. Another thing, leveling will cause your truck to ride rougher than stock especially adding E rated tires which is common on larger tires like 285/60/20’s. You’ll also need to buy new offset wheels in order to get the rubbing to stop and buying new uca’s doesn’t guarantee to stop the rubbing which is why I jumped on the “much smoother than leveling” Badass CST 4.5” lift. When you consider the cost that goes into the leveling parts, wheels, shocks/struts and labor, it’s a no brainer! You should never “ever” go cheap on your suspension, it’s your vehicles foundation. Most trucks that are traded in are traded in due to bad riding trucks caused by people that want the look but don’t have a quality suspension, all lifts are not equal, you get what you pay for. If you’re on s budget? Save until you can afford to do it right cause then you’ll actually not only enjoy looking at your truck but you’ll love driving it too and not need a throw up bag and Advil for the ride along Sent from above

(Leveling Thread) It happens due to being leveled! Sent from above

Do your homework, do the numbers yourself. Getting new uca’s is no 100% not going to rub. You want as much space for tire flexing as possible. Level $200 plus Level requires new UCA’s $500 plus New wheels $1000 plus New rear shocks if raising rear which you’ll most likely want to do $200 This is the cost of the badass CST 4.5” lift which keeps every thing stock width not needing spacers and stock turning radius https://www.newlevelmotorsports.com/cskc3191.html Sent from above

Angles are different and yes, major difference which them requires new wheel Sent from above