TXGREEK

285/60/20’s right here: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found my heavier Nitto Ridge Grappler tires do much better with high quality shocks versus stock oem shocks. In addition, airing them down a bit does help ride quality too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Pretty color and looks great! [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looked at mine, didn’t find anything like that, found rubber seals on both sides apparently assisting in the flow like air dam Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good looking truck, What’s your setup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take some profile, front and rear pics of your truck so OP can see [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BDS is owned by Fox and a reputable company, I wouldn’t worry about the quality. As long as your CVBall joints are in good position you should be fine. Again, don’t worry about it, any issues there’s a lot of us on this site that can give helpful advice Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wait till after the lift and wheel and tires are on then you can take some measures, you’ll want it to match front and rear, would look off following you on the road. What shocks you going with? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure if the 4” lift gives you new spindles like the 6” but You may get the widened track width poking out your front wheels so you’ll need to add rear spacers in order to balance out the look. If you have to get them look at Bora spacers, apparently they’re the best/safest. Just make sure to re-torque on every tire rotation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you just ordered, cancel it or reject it unless it’s to late. But, you’ll be fine, you’ll definitely need rear spacers probably 1.75”, hope it all goes well for you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn’t matter what vehicle it is, it depends on the air induction system, look to see where your air suction is and it is identical to my Z71 which I’d never go through that high water unless it was an emergency and had a backup plan. If your air suction is higher than the highest point of the water you’re in then you’ll be fine but keep the transmission in 1st gear allowing the exhaust to exit without clogging up causing a stall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like cv/ball joint or front coils. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not sure if this would work for you but I recently had my transmission flushed and added the newer GM transmission fluid and shocked to find the transmission temperature was at least 20 degrees lower than before the flush and with only 20k miles on it. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’d highly recommend CST 4.5” Lift! BDS is owned by Fox, good lift but CST is a far superior lift. Zone is the lower end owned by BDS and a great value but both BDS and Zone will give you that stupid widened look that ruins your turning radius and track width (unless you’re into that) which requires you to rethink your tires and wheels offset as well as requiring you to add controversial rear spacers to get your rears to match front widened track width. I’ve got the CST 4.5” and LOVE IT! Very comfortable daily driver and you can fit anywhere. 2.25” Leveled with 33’s +1 offset CST 4.5” Lift with same wheels 295/60/20’s (34”) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can add high quality CST, King, Fox Coil Overs and possibly some cheaper ones to though I’d avoid the cheaper ones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look at doing a CST 4.5” lift, retains factory track width and turning radius as well as front shocks “if” you want to keep them which I’d highly recommend not to. All you’d have to do is add longer new rear shocks. The Kit: $1600 plus install Rear shocks: $200 (Bilstein 5100’s) https://www.newlevelmotorsports.com/cskc3191.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=cskc3191&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItZ2b4PCE5AIVzf_jBx0G5wddEAQYASABEgLHPPD_BwE CST is top notch, outstanding quality! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks GREAT! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Newer design, 100k extended zero deductible and any issue I have will be fixed without “cannot duplicate problem” lol. Plus, I get to drive other BMW’s as loaners if and when the time comes for long servicing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Each and e dry manufacturer has their own SERIOUS problems and yet still selling their vehicles. I traded in my 16 Yukon XL with 40k miles just because multiple times, my wife stated she noticed transmission slipping and we all know the issues GM has been having and after a day of some research and found enormous class action law suits against GM for transformation issues I drove straight into my local BMW dealer and told my wife, pick out anything you want, 2019 X5 and absolutely loving it. At least I know BMW isn’t knowingly manufacturing and selling vehicles they know has issues. I’ve still got my 18 SLT 6.2 Z71 and still loving it, even with over $10k in upgrades, I’ll definitely trade it in for a loaded out Raptor at the first sign of major issues that can’t be fixed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You bought it yesterday, if you’re not happy with it, return it and go buy yourself something else. One thing I’ve always found to be true with Dealerships, always say yes, we’ll take care of it only to find later that either it’s normal or can’t find anything wrong with it and by then it’s to late to return it. I got rid of my 16 loaded out XL after one to many times “that’s normal for the vehicle” which I call BS so I traded it for a new body style 2019 BMW X5, night and day difference in quality especially in handling. Though there’s nothing quite as room as an XL, my wife is over it now. No clucking, weird shifting, uneven doors, multiple repairs far to soon for the mileage which traded it at 40K miles. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You generally ALLWAYS see mpg loss on all leveled truck due to the change of wheel and tires usually because of being wider or heavier and not totally due to a 2” height difference Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, Fellow Forum Members, it’s a toss up, no need to insult one another because of not agreeing with ones “THEORIES”. Personally, if you’ve found oil in your return line then there’s no harm in adding a Catch Can but I will stick to my adding Lucas Fuel Treatment into a full tank along with ritually using Amsoil Signature Series real 100% synthetic motor oil change at 3-5K miles. Never heard of RedLine but if Grumpy likes it then it too must be a great product to use as well as Amsoil. Good luck to everyone! Sent from above

You can believe what you want to believe as well as do your own added investigation into answering your own questions. The obvious is that oily mist or whatever you want to call it whether poor design or whatever is getting back into the engine and this is something that we can ALL agree on. How and what anyone does to help capture as much of the contaminated return air is a step further. I fed super into my Yukon along with Mobil1 annual protection, oil filter every 3-4K miles and in the long run made zero difference, carbon buildup before 20k miles. Only thing that fixed it was Lucas Fuel Treatment. My 18 6.2 runs on nothing but super and is literally fed Lucas Fuel Treatment every full tank along with Amsoil Signature Series every 3-4K miles with Zero issues, so far. The article I posted offers proof only to those that are proactive throughout their lives. Changing your oil with cheap oil or changing as per manual is not proactive, neither is putting low grade fuel in your truck but many do and later complain as to crappy built motors. I’ve often thought of adding an easy to get to fuel filter system along with a catch can but because of my very busy life, I’ve decided to just do what I’m doing until I’m proven wrong which will land me in a new vehicle anyhow. One thing I’d like to know is if condensation builds up more by having a catch can versus not having one. Sent from above

You’re going to sell your truck and share one vehicle between the two? Sent from above